[csl]

Just starting this so i can turn the internet off for the next few days and finish my work!

Mon- KK - Warmed up - Campus 1-3-5 and trying 1-4-6 - could just touch the 6. Then did the problem i had made up with feet follow hands at about v6 then did some other v4ish probs.
Tues- nothing
Wed- Fingerboard - repeaters x 3 sets, 3x3 pull-ups crimp, 3x3 half crimp,3x3 open hand, 3x10 press ups
Thur-nothing
Fri-Almscliff - Flying arete - brilliant! and ed's dyno thing - Someone's covered the footholds in a huge patch of chalk!
Sat- nothing
Sun- maybe some finger boarding this evening

[rich d]

Mon fingerboard
Tues nothing 20+ hrs work day
Wed fingerboard
Thur pull ups, press ups and general core
Frid nothing
Sat good few hrs at burbage south - fantastic weather - trashed hands.
Sun currently fingerboarding - mainly pull ups and locks due to state of fingers.
Good week - also had no alcohol, chocolate, sweets etc and not eaten after 9pm. 7a by summer feels possible after last year's laziness.

[tomtom]

New goal. To have done 50 different 7's in total (as in since I started climbing) by the end of the year.. (now 19). Inspired by Nai's century.

M > Sa nothing. Work work work and a bit of a hanging on the bm one evening.
Su. Great day at Stanage with 3T, Slackers and a load of other folk. Spent ages on the 7a just to the right of Crescent Arête.. Superb problem (everyone did it but me until eventually).. Great sting in the tail if you avoid the arête. Falling from the top I had a 'everything happens in slow motion' moment that I've not had for yonks.. Surreal, but a great problem. Then managed to close my account on Help the Young after opening it the week before excellent day.

[shark]

Cheers a 'ton' csl

Weight 11.7-8

M. Eve. Shed. Changed holds on crux of oak circuit to make it harder. Did one AnCap set and felt blown on 1st rep of 2nd so quit. Shoulder muscle at front felt tweaky
T. Eve. Foundry with Ben and Poppy. Did well on problems. Bit of progress on green black. One set of AnCap circuit on 40 deg board. Did good.
W.
T. Eve. Shed. Struggled to warm up, struggled on remodelled crux . Fuck rest days. Wisdom of messing around with the crux questioned.
F. Eve. Foundry. Longish session for me (2hrs). Bouldered on Wave then did 5 ace goes on extended circuit on 40deg board . Ecstatic
S. Tor. Noon. Baltic. Various goes on weedkiller. Bit tired from sess prev eve ning and too cold to really get going . Equanimous
S. PM. Shed. Good session. Looking at vid "footage!"realised I'd kept my foot low on crux previously. Worked a treat on new hold although didnt link from start.

Good week with gains bagged. Feel light though not weighing light though usually this is a sign it's about to drop off. Golfers not going away.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

In which I enter a bouldering competition woefully underprepared, but to my surprise still manage to perform somewhat respectably.

M:  Too much work, not enough sleep
T:  ditto
W: Was getting ready to go wall for a routes session. Checked boulderwelt website in passing and saw that their spring comp series starts on Saturday. Eek! Last year's started in mid-February. Last minute diversion to boulderwelt for a token bouldering training/warm-up session.
T:  Nowt; feeling crap. Feels like beginning of some kind of cold/flu/virus thing
F: ditto
S: Bouldering competition, boulderwelt. I haven't trained and the boulders initially feel significantly harder than last year, but in the end I manage to score better than in last year's first round. Hurrah.
S: Still feeling slightly crap though not full-on sick (yet?)

[nai]

season goal - 100 7s, 7C
summer goal - 8a, E4

M - started garage tidy, lots of lifting, etc.  Fitted 5x7min Aerocap experiments on campus board, slightly twingey right shoulder, elbow & wrist. Core eve
t & w - loft clearance into garage, lots more lifting etc. Tried to get warmed up for max hangs sessions but shoulder complained so sacked it
T - hour at Burbage N, 10 mins lapping block 1 (approx 18x5m up and down, felt like a good Aerocap workout) then bouldered on the Bridge, did Wobble Block Direct, a nice intro to hugging
F - A grand day out with Lagers, after much dithering over a venue decided on Baslow. For a Few Beagles More (the 7b in case you get as confused by all the names as I do) went relatively quickly, moved on to Flatworld but got stopped in my tracks, did Hurry On Sundown as a consolation which put me on 99 7s. Opted to return to the Eaglestone where conditions were better to try Beagle Has Landed which I've been close to before in poor conditions.  Luckily for my skin it went 2nd attempt to bring the 100 up.  Almost got WBD but just ran out of time and skin.  A really great day.
s - more hauling boxes and shit, fitted in a few 7 min bored sessions
S - 2 hours haulage to finish, absolutely knackered.

[wsmith]

Week 1 of 29 of plan.

M - Northampton. Did a few of hard problems I hadnt done before. Tried to do ancap in there but got to set 3 and it wasnt working well so did 3 sets of 2 min feet on campus boarding. 20 mins Aerocap
T - 20 min run.
W - Day, gym core, antagonist, short run. Eve, Garage. Aerocap, 4x10mins.
T - Garage. 1 hour of power. Ancap 2 sets of 4 reps, cocked up beta on first rep which seemed to burn out left arm for the rest of the session.
F - Rest
S - Fingerboard. Max hangs then 3 sets of back 3 half crimp repeaters. 20 min run.
S - Garage. Some hard moves. Aerocap, 4x10mins.

Finished writing the plan on Thursday. Feels good to be back on one. Have started running a bit too as my cardio is shite and I dont want to collapse on the way to Ceuse.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Planche, front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: 4m run
T: bouldering at NCC
W: 4m run
T: BM: one arm max hangs & theraband
F: rest
S: bouldering at Cratcliffe and RHS
S: bouldering at Birchen, managed a new 6C but nothing harder

Really enjoyed getting out in the good weather this week, could do with tougher skin though!

[i_a_coops]

Been lax with Power Club due to illness and excessive social life.
S
S - Burbage south boulders in high winds. Failed on three 7As. Only managed problems involving upside down crack technique - Definitive 5.11 and Elephants Arse SS.... Eek.
M
T
W - RHS in the ming. did both Cave problems, nothing else was dry apart from a 7A+ I couldn't touch. Definitely not got the gritstone rhythm at the minute!
T
F - Metalwork removed from left foot. Operation went well, I have now seen my own skeleton. Groovy....
S
S

No climbing for 6 weeks....

[Duncan Disorderly]

Back on the horse - so to speak.

M: Nowt
T: 4x4's @ The Edge - Up to 6b+
W: 4 mile run
T: 40+ circuit of easy problems @ The works
F: Chil
S: Burbage with family - Did usual circuit of easy problems plus repeated Crash and Gurn to get a 7A tick in.
S: House shiz

Got climbing and got out..... Nice! Finger's on the mend too.

This week: More!!!!

:D

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Rest
T - Indoor bouldering, working problems @ TCA - good, polished off several problems I'd worked before, kept going for a while.
W - Nothing - bad.
T - Nothing - bad.
F -  Nothing - bad.
S - 1 hour stomping around failing to find The Whangie - okay, at least I was moving.
S - Nothing - bad.

Very bland and depressing failweek. Distracted by other stuff but missed several obvious opportunities to go to the gym. Didn't leave myself enough time to get out this weekend either and too lazy to do any other training. The polar opposite of how I want to be. I have a bit of a clearer plan this week and my body is aching and tired with lack of exercise so I must do it.

Edit: On the plus side my 7 week+ lingering gayflu seems to be slowly disappearing, no doubt due to the miraculous cessation of the torrential rain. Also a good session at TCA on Tue - the actual successes were more due to improving technique than improving strength BUT I managed to keep going through a longish session including working a steep problem at the end, which is good.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage etc etc
LTG: Font 7b

M - Depot session in evening, managed to force myself to get on the Beastmaker board.
T - Nowt.
W - 5 mile run on lunch, eve did board warmup followed by Beastmaker repeaters - 3 sets 4 finger big crimps, 3 sets 3 finger crimps.
T - 5 mile run on lunch.
F - Works comp in evening. Achieved ambition of getting up 10 problems...realised one of my main weaknesses is basically that comp wall!
S - Shipley Glen. Faffed about a bit, warmed up, crap few goes on Red Baron. Took shoes off, had a rest, put shoes back on, did Red Baron. 3rd 7a in 3 outdoor session in 2012.
S - Plantation with Slackers, TT plus a good few others off here. Great day, did Adults Only, Crescent Arete(s), the nice arch thing behind Help The Young (including flash of the 6c direct) and even got Crescent Slab. 4th 7a in 4 outdoor sessions in 2012.

[marky8b]

Week 2

9/1/12
Chapel session - ANC & ARC
ANC
16 move problem steep wall 4/3 min rest 8 sets failure on last set at 13/14 (approx 150 moves)
ARC 3x10 Min's on approx 450 moves
Strength work/Circuit Training 6 exercises 1 min each station x 2 sets Press up, Crunchie 1, Pull ups steep wall, Shoulder press, Crunchie 2, Bicep curl

11/1/12
ANP & SSW session
Bouldering 45Min's (100 moves) various problems
1 arm assist (15kg) x 3 sets each arm 4/5 secs
Weighted Pulls x 3 sets, 6,5,4 (19/20kg) (1sessionx3setsx5repsx20Kg=300kg)
W/Belt climbing 3 sets steep wall 10 move circuit
W/Belt dead hang small edge x 2 sets of 7on3off (4,3) x 1 set on big edge (4) crimp & open

12/1/12
ARC Session
Run/Warm Up
20/10's x 3 sets (Reps, 4,4,5) total moves 400
Strength work super sets
Bench (50kg) x 3sets (8,8,8) into one leg squats x 3 sets (5,5,5)
Press (30kg) x 3sets (6,6,6) into Up row (30kg) (6,6,6)
Core work, crunchies and dish

14/1/12
Bouldering outside/Caley, first day outside for 2012!
Vgood conditions, bouldering from font 4 to 7b+
approx 150 moves (100 medium, 50 hard/power)
Working three 7b/7b+ problems making good progress from type of training done so far...

Total Number of ANC week 2=150
Total Number of ANP week 2=250
Total Number of ARC week 2=850

[fried]

Monday - 4th session in 8 days and everything on my RHS is starting to ache, so nothing too difficult.
Tuesday - Shoulder stuff
Wednesday - Friday - Nuffin'
Saturday - indoor session (Weather was lovely but had to do some cooking for friends, thought about pulling a sicky but missus was having none of it), unfortunately cut the tip off my finger while cutting an onion the previous night, so even worse than Monday.
Sunday - Not athing.

Weight 75.5kg

[iain]

Goal: 7C in Font/April, maybe a 7c+/8a or two on the way
Weight: 65.8 av. 0.2 down. Aim, 62

My naive optimism got the better of me again. Shark was right, I don't have the base for what I was trying, especially not in amongst a nearly 70 hour week.

M: Max hangs, 4 grips x 4 hangs, assisted one-armers
T: Ancap and body exercises
W: 35 min ARC
T: Started max hangs and didn't have any oomph. Had to go for a nap 
F: Rest
S: Max hangs, 4 grips x 4 hangs, assisted one-armers
S: Short repeater session and body exercises

Going to try for a base building 3 weeks now. Try and do at least 5 short sessions every week, mixing up strength and PE but avoiding knackering myself in any session, and try and steadily build up the volume.

On the plus side from coops thread

Doing repeaters but 4 hangs only, on every second minute should replicate AnCap as far as rough timing goes

I had the right idea on what to try for Ancap

[shark]

Going to try for a base building 3 weeks now. Try and do at least 5 short sessions every week, mixing up strength and PE but avoiding knackering myself in any session, and try and steadily build up the volume.

Its going to be tough -don't give up. Unless you are clear about an alternative training model then I think you should be doing volume now but the weekly mix of sessions shouldnt all be intense ones (yet).

Even if your goals are solely bouldering a base/foundation phase should include volume oriented and less intensity oriented sessions including things like AeroCap circuits and lots of easy/med problems back to back (ARC not hard enough IMO) and maybe some conditioning work (weights, pull-ups, body weight exercises) for say the next 8 weeks alongside some PE circuits and fingerboarding. Plan it so you have 3 progresively harder weeks, 1 easy week, 3 progressively harder weeks and 1 easy week.

This should lay a good foundation for a more intense phase concentrating on AnCap and power work in the run up to Font backing off a bit a week before you go. Well that's what I'd do. Its what Binney advocates. The guidelines are all here:    http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf

Hope that makes sense.
 

[webbo]

M. Bouldering Rockcity. Circuit of 30 problems then fitting holds to the cellar board for 2 hours.
T. 3 hours fitting holds to the other cellar board.
W. Bouldering Rockcity spent all evening on cellar board. Didn't bother going on new bouldering bit.
Th. Nothing knackered.
F. Short session Rockcity going a bit shit.
S. Weights managed 72.5 kg bench press again. Spent rest of day cleaning then shopping.
Su. Bike 1 hr 50 mins freezing. Bouldering Rockcity on new bit did 30 problems, not going too bad given I'd been out on my bike first.Last time I tried this I couldn't hold any body tension.

[205Chris]

M: Works - comp wall and some stuff on the new panel
T: Nada
W: Short board session. Felt tired so stopped early
T: Nada
F: 2nd session on Mossatrocity. Put some good links in.
S: Rowtor - Finally bagged My Apple, another one off the spanking list from last year. What an amazing problem, possibly one of the best problems I have ever done anywhere. Should have done Short Sean's without the footblock but ran short of time / skin.
S: Burb South. Sporting robbed myself of the tick on Desparete by getting to the break then finding the next bit was green and scrittly so dropped off - the climbing works tick if you will  . Definitely keen to get back to finish it off. Ticked the Sheep and Pepper Mill. Nearly called it a day but the option of a big pad stack on Trellis was too tempting so dug deep to tick that as well.

Pretty pleased with the start of 2012, plenty of good days out on the grit and plenty I'm psyched for. Hopefully get some more ticks in the bag before thoughts turn to training for routes.

[iain]

Unless you are clear about an alternative training model

 

The reason that I started out as I did is that I have had some good personal results from ticking over and then 4 weeks fingerboarding leading up to a font trip, and I do love how max hang sessions feel The intensity's clearly too much at the moment though, and in the shorter term I'd like some fitness for routes.
So you've convinced me about the volume, I just need to figure out how to do that in around an hour, mostly on a fingerboard, (believe me, I'd rather not.) 20/10's might work.
Oh, and I never write it down but I do a decent amount of conditioning, although the bolton complex is worth thinking about.

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it. I'd read the pdf but me being me I get lost in the detail and don't see the big picture.