[wsmith]

I've got a 4-6 week trip planned to Ceuse over August and September this year. I'm currently putting together a training plan to lead up to this trip. I have 30 weeks between now and then.

My question is, how should I split up these 30 weeks to give me the biggest gains and best performance peak in Ceuse? Into two 15 week cycles or one 30 week cycle? Or something else...

If I do one long cycle I was thinking of something like this: 23 weeks with the focus on aerobic capacity followed by 5 weeks of anaerobic endurance followed by 2 weeks of power/recruitment. Throughout the aerobic capacity period I would do 2-3 sessions per week of power and anaerobic endurance to maintain or steadily increase them but the focus would be aerobic capacity with 3-4 sessions of that per week.

If I was to do two 15 week cycles the structure would be the same but with each period shortened.

I also plan to fingerboard on a 4 weeks on, 4weeks off basis.

So, two short cycles or one longer cycle? And does the structure of my cycles sound correct?
Any advice much appreciated  Thanks UKB.

[douglas]

Are you planning to on-sight or red-point out there? This would affect what I trained. I was on-sighting there a few years ago and felt like I had too much stamina, not enough PE and power. Red-pointing I would imagine would require less stamina again so I think your strong emphasis on AeroCap will hold you back, unless fitness really is a huge weakness, but you're out there for 4-6 weeks which is a long time and you'll get fit just by doing the routes.

I don't know if you've been there before but I probably pulled on about 10 crimps in three weeks and there are no drop knees, every move is front on. With that in mind I'd focus more on slopey middle two pocket strength, steep burly moves, and vert moves with poor feet, and 15-30 move power endurance. With small 10 - 20 mins AeroCap workouts at the end of every other session for jug recovery training.

[wsmith]

Thanks for the reply.
My main goals are in redpointing but will be onsighting too. As for having too much emphasis on aerocap, im pleased to hear that as I wasn't particularly excited by the prospect of 23 weeks of it. I think I will add in some smaller cycles of power in between the aerocap.

Haven't been before but have heard about the pockets. Im poor on crimps though and like open handed stuff and pockets so think I will still include a fair bit of crimping on the fingerboard. I think im going to get on Ami de tout le Monde as well which has some crimping ive heard.

Cheers.

[saltbeef]

lap sardine

[ghisino]

my personal experience is that my best overall shape in céuse has been when i was coming from a quite big mileage of outdoor climbing at relatively lower grades.

I personally wouldn't boulder right before going.

general thoughts that might help you:

-the key elements at any grade are : 1)climbing efficiently without getting too pumped on a 10-move hardish/easyish section 2)recovering as best as possible on poor rests 3)staying focused and relaxed all the way through the climb.

-crux/bouldering power is rarely a limiting factor.

-You start to really pull at 7b/c. Below that, it's mostly techy balancey stuff on the infamous slopey pockets, vertical or even slightly slabby walls.

-Some of the most interesting routes (eg the harder routes in berlin) start with intense PE sections. But they are rarely the redpoint crux.

-i prefer softer shoes in céuse.

-The general nature of most routes make them onsight friendly and redpoint nightmare

[JohnM]

Video of L'ami here

There was an article in Climb or Climber I can't remember which by Steve McLure on training for Ceuse so it might be worth getting hold of that. 

I would concentrate on being able to do short intense power endurance sections (e.g. 4 x 4s of 10 moves) mixed with climbing up and down a 20 degree wall and be able to recover at medium to poor rests.

[wsmith]

Thanks.

Have modified my original plan quite a lot based on what's been said here and from reading Randall and Binneys stuff. Cheers for the video aswell.

Now just to put the work in.