[nai]

winter goal - complete 100 7s (now on 97), 7C
ltgs - 8a & E4 next summer

M - garage laddering, 3x4 sets 1min on 1 min off, failed sets 11&12
T - pullups pressups, tri & chest + core
w
T - half a max hangs workout, felt crap, decided against Works & opted for a garage session.  4x4 sets, started at 1min on/off failed at set7! extended rest to 70s, failed at about 50s on sets 14, 15 & 16.  Felt way hard.   
F - just over an hour at Black Rocks, did Hat Trick a nice little technical groove
S - unexpected Secret Garden session, had a quick look at DW but hadn't really warmed up and wasn't getting anywhere, had a play on Stepped Roof with Plattsy for an hour or so.

The garage sessions are feeling really hard, think I need to knock them on the head for a few weeks and build some base endurance, bit of an amateur mistake diving straight in on them.

[rich d]

Mon had to leave work due to being sick
Tues being sick
Wed not quite being sick
Thurs nada
Fri nada
Sat went to Burbage North - wife and kids start crying and shivering due to wind - decide to leave
Sun tidied garage - did an hours worth of fingerboard, bit of core.
Not had a drink for a week - not lost any weight.

[csl]

Mon-nothing
Tues - Kelsey Kerridge - made a concious effort to warm up for longer and felt much better as a consequence - made up my own problem on the steep wall at about v5 and kept trying the purple 'v6' i've been struggling with
Wed - nothing
Thur - Kelsey Kerridge - PE - campus with feet on 1,1,3,3,2,1 for 14reps x 3, then tried on the minute on a v4 and got 4 reps and another 2 on a slightly easier v4.
Fri - nothing
Sat - Kelsey Kerridge - Campus 1-3-5 x 4 and then 4 half reps where i only touched the top rung - 3 sets. Lots of goes on purple V6 and got to last moves through the roof - just holding a swing on a jug. then went around and flashed a few v3-v5 problems.
Sun - nothing

Weight 77.2kg

[tomtom]

M: plantation with most of the bouldering world! Usual failures though closer on hourglass arête.
T: nothing
W: not alot
Th: nada
Fri: plantation again.. Cold, barely managed to warm up, but got hourglass arête done first new 7 of the year opened an account on Help the young.. Would have got much further if I'd seen the video beta first that I saw after! Feels quite do-able..
Sa: great day out with Andy Popp at an edge near Helsby and at Manly Tor.. Nearly got a superb (unobvious) 7a (ish) there,  Was shattered at the end of it. There's some quality problems there...
Su: ache

What a difference a week of good-ish weather can make!

[wsmith]

M - Bouldering at Redpoint.
T - Rest.
W - Day: Core, one arm locks, antagonist. Eve 30 mins campus board then tried a few problems.
T - Rest
F - Was going to do a hard repeaters session but fingers felt tweaky so just did 3 easy sets of repeaters. Then 25 mins of core, the front lever is getting closer!
S - Went to Forest Rock. Did a few nice problems but nothing harder than v5 as a lot of stuff was wet and its such an unknown style of climbing to me.
S - 20 min run.

Proper training starts next weak, unfortunately exams also start next week.

[shark]

Cheers nai

11.7-9
Week 9 of 16 of training

M. Travelling back from Devon
T.  Day. Rock rings. Did OK on assisted left arm pullups but blew out when I tried encores. Eve. Foundry with Ben and Poppy. OK on Wave but crap on circuit on 40 degree board so gave up. Endurance seemed to have gone. 
W. Day. Rock rings. Tried to complete yesterdays session. Was really shit so gave up. No fingerboarding for a while I think. Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Did ok on Wave and did 3 laps on 40deg board circuit.
T. Eve. Shed. Quickish session re-working Oak circuit. Went OK.
F. Eve. Works with the boys. Ben had been nagging to go here. Felt lost in a labyrinth inhabited by skinny people. Tried a few blues and wasps.
S. Windy. Decided against soloing at Stanage. Went to tor and worked Weedkiller.
S. Weather still dodgy but had a go at soloing at Stanage at Rusty Wall. Felt clunky and sketchy. Clag came in. Went to tor. Much wetter but the 5 holds I was most interested in where dry. Linked them 4x in a row at the end.

Wasn't up to doing full sessions this week. Bit disappointing. Hopefully turn the gas up this week. And lose some lbs.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: Cross country skiing. Day Two of my xc ski career, Day One having taken place nine years ago. 5km easy trails
T:  Day Three of ditto. 18m easy/intermediate trails. If only I could claim progress like this in climbing. But see below.
W: Rest: sore legs
T:  Indoor routes, Thalkirchen. Stamina session: a dozen routes in the 6a/+ range. But realised when filling in my journal that I haven't got up a 6b for three months. Oops. Finger out.
F: yoga
S:
S: Indoor routes, Thalkirchen. Short session with Frau M; warmed up then onsighted a 6b, the first since October yyfy. But totally playing to strengths: the route was quite technical but not pumpy at all so not really a step on the way to the STG.

Weight: 79kg. Slightly less than before Christmas. My bathroom scale broke before Christmas, this was the first weigh-in on the new one. Any increase would obviously have been down to different calibration, lack of comparability between two different scales etc. - but in fact I am now convinced that these things are pretty accurately calibrated and results are actually well comparable.

[fried]

Monday - indoor session + weights
Tuesday - work work work
Wednesday - indoor session as above. Started doing pull-ups for the first time since I fucked my shoulder.
Thursday - Shoulder/elbow stuff
Friday - Shoulder/ elbow stuff
Saturday - indoor/weights more pull-ups, feeling good.
Sunday - Shoulder/ elbow stuff

Another three session week, hopefully this will translated into some outside progress (if it ever stops drizzling). Really pining to get outside, last time was in November. The forecast doesn't look promising.

Weight 75.5kg

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Planche, front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: 4.5m trail run & 4m walk
T: Attempt to travel Aviemore to Notts but only get as far as Perth before all trains are cancelled
W: Finally got home 36 hours after starting!
T: 5m run, BM repeaters, theraband & front lever progressions
F: rest
S: Bouldering at Cratcliffe at RHS
S: Quick bouldering session at Higgar Tor - managed a 6C but nothing harder and then a 7m fell run.

Not a bad week considering it took two days to travel home. Made good progress on T-crack, feels as though it should go in the next couple of sessions but knowing me it'll take many more sessions of dropping the last hard move!

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff ticked off etc etc etc by Easter Monday
LTG: Font 7b

M - Plantation with most of UKB, good session on the old circuit - also sent first 7a of 2012 by doing Satin first go!
T - Knackered. Slightly lacklustre board session in the evening.
W - 5k run at lunchtime.
T - Depot for new comp. Climbed well, flashed a good few and purposefully left a few that I reckon will go 2nd / 3rd time.
F - 10k run at lunchtime.
S - Nowt.
S - Brimham. Sent second 7a of 2012 by doing Pair In A Cubicle, then realised ocne I'd got home there's a 7b extension that traverses into it...interesting.

[iain]

A belated happy new year everyone.  Apologies for the long post.
If anyone can be bothered I’d appreciate input to the question(s) at the end.

Two weeks worth.

First week is easy: Made like a coach potato, went to the lakes for new year.

M: Longish walk and then oggled the Bowderstone but it was too grim for this adopted southern softie to feel like doing anything
T: Nothing
W: Fingerboard, 5-8 secs hangs, assisted one-armers
T: Bouldering at Reading, left utterly trashed, brilliant.
F: Rest
S: Went for an afternoon stroll with my lovely wife, sun dappling through the trees, she turns to me smiling and says “you’re getting much greyer you know”  Later fingerboard, 5-8 secs hangs, assisted one-armers
S: Rest

The sessions this week were to wake the body back up again after 2 weeks taking it easy and it felt surprisingly good. Weight this morning was 66kg, 4 kg to lose.

The proper training whilst barely climbing starts this week. An experiment in whether I can make gains with no proper base period using supplemental training only, and realistically what will happen is that I’ll get better at the training and the real climbing won’t actually change but I need to do something.

14 weeks till a font trip with redpointing in the middle. Not ideal. Splitting into 3 4week blocks with 2 weeks tune up at the end, with each 4 week block 3 weeks hard, 1 easy. 1st block strength, 2nd PE and not sure about 3rd. I’m trying to stick to one session per day, around an hour, and one guaranteed local wall session per week which is really only good for arc/aerocap.

Aim for first 3 weeks:
M: Max hangs 5-8 secs. Assisted one-armers
T: Ancap on the fingerboard. Variety of body conditioning volume in an attempt to keep it ticking over.
W: ARC or aerocap depending on how I feel
T: Max hangs 5-8 secs. Assisted one-armers
F: Ancap on the fingerboard. Variety of body conditioning volume.
S: Possible ARC/aerocap dependant on tiredness and time.
S: Rest

Questions:
Bollocks or not bollocks? Any suggestions?

I’m not clear what to aim for with Ancap. What I’ve been trying leaves me feeling tired like like repeaters, and the recommended structure to rest twice as long as the exercise sounds like repeaters. I was under the impression I shouldn’t be getting too pumped. Can anyone clarify this for me? Should I be making each rep more intense over a shorter time? Next month is for PE, I don’t want to be doing it this month as well.

[shark]

Yes AnCap should get you pumped or shut down. Unusual to attempt it on a fingerboard (foot on?). Sounds like you lack a decent local wall. Regime sounds quite intense unless you have building up to it. Are you planning to boulder outside/inside at weekends too?

[iain]

Yes AnCap should get you pumped or shut down.

Cool, thanks.

Unusual to attempt it on a fingerboard (foot on?). Sounds like you lack a decent local wall.

Nearest wall I could do Ancap at is an hour 50 return trip. Too much time/fuel for regular sessions 
I'm going to try one session foot on and one hanging,  just to see if the hanging gives a similar effect I guess, with the plus that I'll have the feet underneath me should I ping off. (hard floors are great until you land on them  )
I'm moving both hands at the same time, not campusing, each hang at a different arm angle, ie. I'm effectively trying encores with a shorter hang and only enough rest to move the hands. Roughly 40 sec reps.

Regime sounds quite intense unless you have building up to it. Are you planning to boulder outside/inside at weekends too?

That's good to know it looks intense, I wondered. I was in good shape before the hols so hoping some of that will carry over but if it's too much I'll switch and use this phase as a base. No other/real climbing until Feb so what I've written down is it.

[205Chris]

M - Plantation with most of UKB, good session on the old circuit - also sent first 7a of 2012 by doing Satin first go!

Were you the guy who flashed Satin and then passed comment on the merits of Peak vs Yorkshire grades  ? We were the team on Pressure Drop.

M - Went over to Higgar Tor only to find a think layer of snow / ice at the top of Shit. Brushed it off and dried it as much as I could with a towel. Had several gos getting through to the final move of Shit before hitting the top only to find it was still slightly damp. What followed was not the most elegant of top outs but I don't care. Nemesis ticked, 2012 off to a good start. Met up with some friends at Stanage for a plantation circuit and got a couple of new ticks including Pressure Drop. It's at times like this I like to dig out my old copy of Peak District Bouldering and pretend I'm some sort of 7c slab climbing hero  .

T - Deadhanging & garage board
W - Garage board

T - Nada

F - Back to Higgar for a quick tick of Hemline which was still damp when I was there on Monday. Went to Mother Cap to try David but wind / cold / rain eventually forced a retreat.

S - Early raid to Baslow. After trying to warm up at the Eaglestone and watching my pad blow halfway across Baslow Moor I dropped into Flatworld area keen to finish Flatworld LH. After 3 gos I was at the top holding a damp pocket with my left and some scrittle with my right. With no spotters I was slightly apprehensive about the top out but decided I wasn't going to give up. One scary top out later it was in the bag. It's at times like this I like to dig out my old copy of Peak District Bouldering and pretend I'm some sort of 7c arete climbing hero  .

S - Went to check out Mossatrocity in the afternoon. Did the stand then worked the sitter before finding the opportunity of a few pads / spotters for Big Al Qaeda. Went to the Stride but no tick. I can't seem to make the toe hook stick any way I try. Board work in the evening to make up for abject failure on Big Al.

After a long wait I've finally managed to get some good conditions on the grit and am pretty pleased with the last 2 week's ticklist. Psyche is back and keen to return to finish off Mossatrocity.

[duncan]

Goal: E5 in 2012.

Another BOGOF power club entry, mainly because I've been struggling a little with a tweaky L wrist and not managed much training.  Three tiny sessions over the two weeks and still feeling sore after each one.  On the plus side, some good (short) runs and no weight gain.

On Sunday I turned my ankle ... whilst shopping!  FuckityFuckFuckFuck.  Lots of swelling and bruising but X-Ray shows no fracture which is good.  Wrist doesn't seem to be to upset by using crutches which is also good.  Other than that it's not good!     

[tommytwotone]

Were you the guy who flashed Satin and then passed comment on the merits of Peak vs Yorkshire grades  ? We were the team on Pressure Drop.

Aye, that were me - as a southern softie living in the north meant completely in jest of course!

Cheers for the beta / psyche for the top section, was really pleased with the flash.

[Joe]

M - I went for a walk. Struggled on a gentle hill.
T - Started a new rotation which seems like a lot of work.
W - Don't think I did anything. (Edit: Actually I went Bouldering! Forgot about that. Not particularly intense...)
T - Again, not much
F - Spent about 5 hours doing indoor routes. Brookes doesn't seem to have any hard routes at all.
S - Nothing
S - Nothing

Quite an awful week really on the climbing side of things, not a great start to the year. Sadly can't see this week being a whole lot better...

[Fiend]

...back, and still severely hampered by DVTs, unable to run nor walk uphill, thus a constant battle to keep fit.

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Outdoor bouldering, working problems @ Shaftoe - fine, reasonable walking around too, but too windy in the end.
T - Gym (gentle), arm cycling, cycling, a bit of core - fine, arm cycling good.
W - Indoor bouldering, working problems @ TCA - poor, weak and tired.
T - Gym (gentle), cycling, rowing, weights - fine.
F -  Rest.
S - Outdoor bouldering, working problems @ Rothley - so-so, too windy.
S - Indoor routes, 8 routes @ Ratho - good, despite no routes for 3 months. Dismayed at weight gain around waist/thighs.

A reasonable week. Fair amount of exercise but dismaying how much weight I've put on despite reducing medication, careful christmas, trying to keep up with exercise etc.

[shark]

Fair amount of exercise but dismaying how much weight I've put on despite reducing medication, careful christmas, trying to keep up with exercise etc.

Hi Fiend 

Its dismaying - changing dietary habits and impulses is hard. You can say no throughout the day but relax a bit in the evening and before you know it you've polished off a calorie bomb.

I've started a daily chart and plotting a 3 day moving average which Toby found the most meaningful measure when he was counting calories as it helps iron out daily fluctuations. Not sure I can count calories it sounds like a step too far.

Welcome back. Sorry to hear about DVTs. 

[webbo]

M. Stanage r/h end a bit baltic in the wind. Various things possibly including cave route.
T. Nothing back to work.
W. Bouldering Rockcity circuit of 30 problems.
Th. Weights and max hangs, bit of a shit session.
F. Nothing.
S. Leeds wall repeated most things I'd done before. Managed a red v6 that I couldn't do the moves on last visit. Dumbell workout when I got home.
Su. Bike 2hrs 40 mins stuffed.

[shark]

3-day MAV should be compared to a daily weight taken at a similar time each day.

Yes. And by daily fluctuations I meant inter-day not intra-day fluctuations. Even I'm not unhinged enough to weigh myself several times a day. I have a vison of your chart on the screen alongside other stock charts. UKB:FLAB - one to short?

[marky8b]

Week 1 of a 18 week programme

2/1/12
Chapel session - ANC & ARC
ANC
16 move problem steep wall 5/4 min rest 6 sets failure on last set at 13/14 (approx 100 moves)
ARC 2x10 Min's approx 300
Strength work/Circuit Training 6 exercises 1 min each station x 2 sets Press up, Crunchie 1, Pull ups steep wall, Shoulder press, Crunchie 2, Bicep curl.

3/1/12
Run 2miles
Stretch
Core 10Min's

4/1/12
Chapel session - ANP & SSW
Boulder 10 move max, 40/5 Min's (approx 50 moves)
Feet off x 2sets
Assist 1 armers (17.5kg) 5secs
Weighted pulls x 2sets, 4, 3 (14kg)
Wbelt (10kg)climbing 2 sets 9/10 moves each
Dead hangs x 2 sets  with Wbelt 5reps4 reps of 7on3off
wrist curls 3 x 10, 2 x 21's bicep curl
Core 250

5/1/12
Chapel session - ARC
3 x 10 Min's approx 450 moves
Base Strength work super sets
Bench 50kg x 8 single leg squats x 5 each x 2 sets
Shoulder press 30kg x 7, 6 up row's x 8, 6

7/1/12
Chapel session ANP & SSW
Boulder 6/8 move max approx 50 moves
Assist 1 armers (17.5kg) 5 secs, 2 reps per arm
Weighted Pulls x 2 sets, 5, 4
Weighed climb x 2 sets, 10, 10
Dead Hang x 2 (7on3off) weight belt 5,4
Campus big holds x 2 laddering up and down 11 moves/Circuit

[shark]

Week 1 of a 18 week programme

 

Week 1 !!!!! bit of a late start 

Sounds like a good week's training. Weekend forecast looks promising if you want to fix something up for sunday.   

What does ANP & SSW mean ??

[robertostallioni]

Easy
ANP and SSW

[shark]

Easy
ANP and SSW

 

Mark's going to have to bulk up and work on his arm raises