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A typical training session (Read 1589 times)

csl

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A typical training session
January 02, 2012, 04:54:13 pm
This year i've decided that my wall sessions need to change into something more focused, but to be honest I don't know what my training session should look like.

For example, a typical PE bouldering session for me would be - Warm up, try 4x4 on boulder problems around my onsight limit, probably try and climb a couple of harder problems then give up due to sore elbows or thin skin. Or for strength - try and climb some problems that are really hard for me, and give up when I'm feeling fucked - both sessions would rarely last longer than 1.5 hours.

I can't help but feel like this is too short and i'm not doing what i should be, probably not resting enough? Hence feeling dead so quick? So, what would your typical session if training Strength, PE or Endurance look like - i.e. how many sets of what or what problems tried, would you boulder and campus or fingerboard in one session?

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#1 Re: A typical training session
January 02, 2012, 05:31:58 pm
If you were solely training power then a 1.5 hour session would probably be in excess of the time you could maintain peak power, however it would be wiser to finish before you started to see a decline in performance. In any other session it would seem a rather short duration.
Without knowing you or seeing what your sessions were like I would go out on a limb to say that you're lacking fitness or training frequency. Try an increase in the amount of 'on the wall time' you can perform in a session, which will probably mean decreasing the intensity. Aim for at least 2.5 hours to start off with taking enough rest between sessions until you can complete this again. After this you can increase the number of sessions within a time frame (week/month) which will give you a great base to start working elements like P.E or Power or a combination within a session.
Hope that helps :)

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#2 Re: A typical training session
January 02, 2012, 08:25:06 pm
why do you think you're not doing enough?
I don't feel improvements?
if you want to increase volume, you have to be very disciplined with rests and so on. moreover, changing targets can also lead to bigger sessions, for example you can train PE for your fingers and forearms in a certain way, then switch to big muscle groups, using walls of different steepness.
I also think that you have to really focus what you want to improve at. targeting multiple objectives, I think, is very difficult for a non professional athlete.
then, I don't mix fingerboarding and campusing with wall climbing anymore.
I use fingerboarding sessions as "rest days" when I'm feeling physically worked. plus, I want to dedicate long sessions to fingerboarding and after that I'm done for good.
but if you want, always fingerboard or campus before climbing. any training session must go from specific tools (fingerboard, campusboard, systemboard) to general tools (bouldering, leading).
if done properly, some intense campusing or fingerboarding can obtain an inmediate neural recruitment that will make you climb like a beast (but it doesn't happen regularly).
also, when doing 4x4 you should see when you fall off, to trim the problems perfectly: if you fall on the 2nd go it's too hard, if you don't fall it's too easy. same thing for the power problems, if you don't even latch the holds it's useless.
also an increase of general fitness could help you, it could be doing weights, or something else.
oh and skin management, as Jerry says, is crucial.
I found it helpful to note some very different sessions, so that each day I can pick the right one for how I feel, skin, etc. in order to train multiple days on.
if in doubt, rest.
finally, if you find yourself stuck, don't go around asking the strong climbers what they do, ask a professional trainer (which I am NOT) for help!!! it's money well spent!!!

csl

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#3 Re: A typical training session
January 02, 2012, 09:08:31 pm
Cheers for the replies.

i think i just need to rest more in a session. I find it difficult to reign myself in, often not warming up properly and thats why i think i burn out so quick but won't be hurting the next day - its like i feel like i can't do anymore at the time - but then don't feel much from afterwards. In hindsight this may just be laziness and me being unwilling to push it.

I will try and slow down my warm up and force myself to rest longer to see how i get on tomorrow. 



 

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