[shark]

Early post as will be away

Week 7 of 16 of programme

11st 7 (weighed in at 11.10 this morning post curry..arrrgghh)

M. Noon. Got warmed up and started a rock rings sess but strength was way down so stopped
T.  PM. Foundry with kids. Toyed with idea of having a rest day. Bouldered with marginal progress. Forced myself to do old AnCap (linked boulder) sess on 40deg board. (13movesx4) 3 sets = 150moves
W. PM Shed. AeroCap 20/10 x4sets =480moves
T.  PM Foundry with Ben and Poppy. Better on the bouldering and got yellow L3 on right side of steep section. Progress on green black spots but last move looks to be a stopper. Did AnCap sess on 40 deg board tagging on a couple more moves. Much better performance. About 170 moves. Eve. Sherlock Holmes then Curry.
F. Day. Pull-ups and then weights session
S. Travelling
S. Snowboarding 

Hope everybody has a fantastic christmas and a syked new year

[Oldmanmatt]

STG super trooper
LTG Font 8a
77.4Kg

Bad week (weak, ha ha), low syke, not enough sleep, niggling cold and sore shoulder...

Monday - Quay, flashed all the new V5's except one (?). Almost finished all the V6+'s. The one through the roof is bugging me now... Campus systems board.
Tuesday - thought about a fingerboard session, that was as far as I got.
Wednesday - had to cancel Quay Sesh.
Thursday - surprise surprise.... Xmas shopping! Bah humbug.
Friday - wee! Quay, bouldering, still not finished the V6+'s, tried my first route in nearly a year... 7a, on a top rope... Was too tired to pull the last two moves... 7a! On a top rope! Tried twice! Bugger! Bugger! Bugger! I can't even climb 7a anymore!
Went and sulked in the boulder room and campus on the 45*...

Well, I know what I shall be focusing on in the coming year!

[Fultonius]

Easy one for me this week. Tuesday - ski tour up 2 munros.

Otherwise - nowt.

[i_a_coops]

Missed last week as in El Chorro. Highlights include 3 very different but frikkin' awesome 7cs (one of which, pitch 3 of Muchachito Bombo Infierno, is the best pitch of climbing I've ever come across, 50 degree board style moves followed by whole-body nonsense with a stalactite/tufa the size of an upside down giraffe, followed by a dyno into a humping position on the tufa, and all with 100m of fresh air underneath your feet! If in Chorro, DO THIS ROUTE and don't be put off by the first pitch being total ming).

Oh and I did my first 8a, Trainspotting, on my 3rd redpoint. Well happy to have managed 7C and 8a this year after several months out with a spannered finger and broken foot!

Low point was probably taking 3 attempts on Poema de Roca, 7a.

[Joe]

Oh and I did my first 8a, Trainspotting, on my 3rd redpoint.

Nice work Ian! After a year away I'm thinking I might start on here again.

[Joe]

Also, I'd give you karma for that, but I don't think I can yet.

[Three Nine]

dont worry Joe, i'll give him positive for trainspotting and negative for poema.

[csl]

In Cambridge for christmas so no rock to climb on now!

Monday - Kelsey Kerridge - Tried a campus board session for the first time. Laddering up and down the big rungs x3 then 1-4-7-9 matching x 3. then 3x3's on a V4 and some general messing around on stuff.
Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - Kelsey Kerridge - Tried the hardest problems - around V6 - could do most of them in two halves but find the setting at KK very strange, can't say i really enjoy climbing there. I'm usually pretty solid on V6ish indoors at the walls in leeds.
Thursday - Nothing
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Just gonna do some press ups and finger boarding now.

Not really sure what I'm training at the mo - have just finished a little endurance cycle and I'm thinking i should be training strength and PE to get out bouldering in the new year. Anyone got any tips on campus boarding? The setting at KK is a bit crap so find it hard to train on the boulder problems.

[Oldmanmatt]

Aha! I might be ok...
Woke up this AM with tonsillitis!
Maybe I can still climb...
Now, how to avoid Blimpitis over Xmas?

[webbo]

M. Rockcity circuit of 40 problems.
T. Weights and max hangs.Managed another decade p.b.of 72.5kg on bench press. ferry to Rotterdam.
W. Rotterdam to daughters in Bielefeld.
Th. Bielefeld wall about 25+problems managed to lose my chalk bucket tho.
F. Bielefeld wall managed a few things I couldn't do last night, no sign of bucket.
S. Nowt
Su. Nowt

[Joe]

So I’ve been absent from posting in Power Club for more then a year, but I’ve decided to come crawling back because actually its been really useful to look back on how I was climbing a year ago and see that actually I have made some tangible progress. Its easy to not notice this if you don’t keep a record.

Anyway, my goals last year were:
STG – (recovery from knee cap dislocation) Finger board sessions 3 times a week, December – climb F7a+ circuit at Gollum’s Cave, Bristol.
MTG – Climb F7b, (House Burning Down/Bitter and Twisted) on-sight F7a
LTG – Climb F7c, climb F8a within 3 years (from 6th September 2010)

I’ve basically all of the short and medium goals so I think I need new ones!
STG – Flash 7a+, climb Sing a Mean Toon Kid and El Chocco, Climb 7c by end of April.
MTG – Climb 7c+ by December 2012
LTG – Climb 8a by September 2013

I think this should be doable if I actually put the work in! This week:

M – Nothing.
T – Exam in the morning, 40 mins areocap afternoon.
W – Another exam, did some pull ups and core.
T – Traveling to Bristol, short finger board session evening.
F – I decorated a Christmas Tree but I don’t reckon that counts for much.
S – Went to Gollum’s cave after warming up on finger board. Did the 7a+ circuit one lap and spent a bit of time climbing around. Got pumped, came home, short finger board session.
S – Don’t imagine I’ll do much!

[Oldmanmatt]

F – I decorated a Christmas Tree but I don’t reckon that counts for much.

Some of those baubles can be damn heavy...

[fried]

Monday  - Thursday - Nothing, was supposed to climb on Tuesday but two of my finger tendons were sore, so decided to save myself until the annual family session.

Friday - Big Rock, Milton Keynes with family, nice centre, but really soft grading lets me onsight 6A after 6A. Lots of fun.

Saturday - Sunday - Boozing and eating, do a bit of shoulder stuff in the quiet moments.

Weight 74.6kg

[nai]

m - much needed rest
t - still needed rest
w - got ill
t - still ill
f - felt a bit better, started a warm up, soon canned it.
s - relapse (must have overdone the warmup)
s - nom nom nom, glug glug glug.

[iain]

No training, a lot of  and an awful lot of food. Great week. Merry Christmas everyone.

And only up .5kg to 65.5 this morning as a result, which is a result. I guess I'm not feeling like starting training properly until next week, it can be my new year resolution.


Nice one on the holiday ticks coops  sounds like a good trip.

As for Matt  for the 7a, hope the tonsillitis clears up quick.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Hmm. Thought about not bothering to post this week, but for the record:

M:
T:  more  with ex-colleagues
W:
T: Alpine approach training / hangover punishment: step-ups w/heavy rucksack 30 minutes
F: Rings, bodyweight exercises: pressups, rows, pullups.
S:
S: Rings, bodyweight exercises: pressups, rows, pullups. Then eating.

[MapleSoup]

Hey guys i'm a bit new here. Thought i'd make a quick post in this training post just to let you all know my background and how i'm going to approach my training for anyone interested.

So I started climbing when i was about 17-18 started with an old friend of mine we went on/off for about 3-4 months usually just once a week and we quickly got up to doing V3 bouldering routes @ BoulderUK (Blackburn).

That was 3 years ago and I'm now 21 soon to be 22 and at university in Derby, one of my friends from my course said that she went climbing every week over at alterrock so i dusted off my old climbing shoes and went for a session and was quickly hooked once again, its been about 2 months since i started up again and i'm now round the V3,4,5 area (depending on the style of the route) I'm quite good at the strength based routes but I struggle with the more technical routes that require a some fiddly movements and grips.

Starting 15th Jan i'll be starting a new training routine that I'm going to entitle BoulderFit, basically I've been doing something you might of heard of called Crossfit which is an all purpose strength and conditioning program (which is amazing btw) But now I'm going to focus my crossfit training towards Bouldering inorder to strengthen my body and improve my conditioning to make me a better climber. This will involve basic strength programming involving squats, deadlifts, pullups, push press etc with some power training Clean & Jerk, Snatch etc, as well as alot of calithetics (bodyweight) training (including finger/grip strength), and also conditioning in the form of short met-cons because a 2 finger 1 arm dead hang pullup is useless unless you can do it when exhausted =P.

I understand that alot of climbers believe that the only training you need for climbing is climbing and for the most part i agree with them the best way to get good at something is to do it. But i also enjoy working out and keeping in shape. So if anyone is interested in following my progress I'll try and keep my blog (http://boulderfit.blogspot.com/) as uptodate as possible with my training and progress.

I'll make another post nearer the 15th with more details if anyone is interested just pm me and i'll try and answer any questions

[tomtom]

m - nowt
t - nothing
w - very little
th - Burbizzle with Lagerstarfish.. good time being shown some Burbage North knacks by Lagers... skinned my shin, but a good session..
f - zzzzz
s- drive - glug - zzzz
su - cooked. 7 hour lamb a success............. glug zzzz

[Muenchener]

I understand that alot of climbers believe that the only training you need for climbing is climbing

And at your (and my) level they're right. Otoh, there are aspects of general health & fitness that climbing doesn't do much for. For example look at almost any good climber's posture. From that point of view that some amount of general strength & conditioning work is a good idea not because it will directly help your bouldering - it probably won't - but because it's a good idea. Finding time for it, and for climbing-specific training, and for life too, is the interesting bit.

[MapleSoup]

I understand that alot of climbers believe that the only training you need for climbing is climbing

And at your (and my) level they're right. Otoh, there are aspects of general health & fitness that climbing doesn't do much for. For example look at almost any good climber's posture. From that point of view that some amount of general strength & conditioning work is a good idea not because it will directly help your bouldering - it probably won't - but because it's a good idea. Finding time for it, and for climbing-specific training, and for life too, is the interesting bit.

Yea no doubt, if i kept climbing then I'll get better, but at the minute my hands can only deal with bouldering 2-3 times a week. So i'm going to train on a 3 on 1 off schedule in which i'll train in the gym for 3 days and then on the 4th day i'll climb and then go back to the gym for 3 days etc. Bouldering is also quite expensive both in terms of membership costs and travel were as the gym is cheap =D.

Also alot of good climbers i've seen have horrible posture and really bad internal rotation of the shoulders. I don't see how that helps them at all =/ were as i feel my posture and core strength are probably my strengths around other climbers of my level. But i could be wrong i need to study more climbers postures and how it effects them when climbing

[duncan]

Oh and I did my first 8a, Trainspotting, on my 3rd redpoint.

You clearly had it in you but well done for getting it done.  Are you going to check out Lourdes?


M - 5 mins easy traversing - wrist OK
T - 7 mins easy traversing - wrist OK; short run
W - 11 mins easy traversing - wrist not OK. 
T - short run
F - very short run
S - usual nonsense
S - short run!

Wrist is proving a little troublesome. Don't think it is anything more than a mild sprain but seems to be taking its time. 

[wsmith]

M- Setting and then short bouldering session.
T - Rest
W- All rock was wet so went to northampton wall. Did a few routes and then bouldering.
T - Very fingery session in the garage. Isolated hard moves and trying projects.
F- Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest

Will put together another training plan in the new year as ive been going randomly for a while now, aiming towards Ceuse in the summer.