[gibbonsd]

Have you seen this interview on 8a with the Russian comp climber Dmitry?  This is blowing my mind:


"The double world champion in bouldering Dmitry Sharafutdinov: How to increase maximum power? (He can do 75 pull-ups static and 110 dynamic).
"First, the maximum number of pull-ups on the bar as well as on the fingerboard. Before winning the world champion in 2007 I prepared by doing 10' to 20,000 pull-ups per month. In the morning I was training between 6 to 10. In the evening from 15.00 to 22.00. This is a very difficult method of training. I do not recommend it. An exercise on the bar is 20 sets of 20 times, rest between sets 3 - 4 minutes. Then fingerboard, active grip 15 sets of 15 times.
Before winning in 2011, I did 3' - 5,000 per month as I increased the load using weight belts etc. Jens, you have to say that it is very difficult and dangerous. The 2007 method is hard for your heart and the technique for 2011 puts a lot of stress on the joints.
What about technical climbing training? The picture shows his climbing wall/gym.
"In February, I will start climbing 30 per cent and 70 per cent of the exercise. You would not believe, but a lot of other exercises, but they are also associated with pulling :-) I train a lot of climbing on the flash. I read a lot of literature about the concentration. This is very helpful.""


Can you think of a reason that this type of training would make you stronger?  Seems like it would just make you tired, weak, flare up your tendons, and pack on a lot of muscle that cant fire quickly enough to pull hard moves.

Do any of you guys incorporate massive amounts of pullups in your training?  Or, can you explain the basis for why it would work?

[andy_e]

That's a bold line of questioning you're taking there.

[BB]

Stevie says "pullups make you a great climber."

[gibbonsd]

Im not sure who Stevie is.  Please educate me.

I love pullups.  Id be happy to do them all day.  I just never thought they would help my power.  It seems like I see so much about explosive work, low reps high intensity, fast twitch, etc, etc

Somebody on this board said Jakob Schubert does thousands per week as well.  Is this for reals??

[psychomansam]

http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/

[gibbonsd]

I guess Im just confused as to how it fits into traditional training ideas-ie-hypertrophy, recruitment, power endurance. 

Do you think you start with a ton of pullups and gradually taper this down to only climbing specific stuff as you get closer to your goal?

It just seems like its not very climbing specific.

[dave]

Stevie says "pullups make you a great climber."

Stevie says a lot of things.

[Wood FT]

sounds mental and old school

[Stubbs]

I guess Im just confused as to how it fits into traditional training ideas-ie-hypertrophy, recruitment, power endurance. 

If he's doing everything from sets of 75 down to sets of 15 on various grips on a fingerboard with a weight vest on I think it's quite easy to see how you could cover power and PE.  He says that he does lots of other exercises involving pulling and practises flashing boulder problems.

You seem to be missing the most important bit of what you quoted

I do not recommend it

Total beast

[Oldmanmatt]

sounds mental and old school

It does appear to work...

I think we have to recognise the difference between the training programme of a pro athlete and recreational athlete.
It's all a matter of dedication and willingness to accept risk/injury.
Also, there is no indication of how long it took either of them to build up to this level.
And to reiterate, they both do a lot of other exercises.

[Oldmanmatt]

Oh yeah,
Bloody Hell!
WOW!
Monster!

[abarro81]

I heard, totally unverified, that Edu Marin used to do loads of pull-ups too.

[SA Chris]

I'm guessing he's a lot of time on his hands, and an extremely low boredom threshold.

[dave]

His knob must be red raw.

[Jaspersharpe]

Apparently pullups are shit training for offwidths.

[chillax]

Good training for running and swimming though.

I quite like pullups, and spent winter 2009-10 doing very little else as I was a misanthropic git living in NI with nowt else to do, and it rained for 4 months solid. Worked up to doing about 2000 a week. Had to stop after 5 or 6 months when I started to get weird electro-shock tingles from my elbows running up my forearms (also managed to unexpectedly get a social life). What surprises me more than the amount of pullups he did was that he seemingly managed to sustain that amount without utterly FUBARing his elbows....

[slackline]

Had to stop after 5 or 6 months when I started to get weird electro-shock tingles from my elbows running up my forearms

Presumably they ran 'up' your forearms as you were unable to lower your arms from above your head having done so many pull-ups.

[Turboman]

Rumour has it that Caff likes to do a good few pull ups.

[Jaspersharpe]

Joking aside. If you can manage to do loads of pullups without getting injured then you will get stronger. It's not complicated (but you will probably get injured).

[rodma]

Well gibbonsd

let's try some science, you do the thousands of pullups bit and I'll be the control group which will consist of drinking red wine and eating pizza and no pullups, but will still go to the wall and have hard sessions. we'll do it for a year and see who has improved the most.

Sorry, that's obviously horseshit. everyone climbs/pulls/moves differently and will see differing benefits from differing prescriptive methods. If you can train like fuck, without getting injured, then you are likely to improve. If you find it easier to motivate yourself with extra pullup sessions, rather than climbing sessions, and/or can find the energy for the extra training, then why not try it 

[gibbonsd]

Alright, brah.  It's on.  Pullups begin now.

[rodma]

That's convenient.
 Pizza and wine commence in 25 minutes :D
Game on

[Stubbs]

Before you start a new topic next week, the one you need is here  http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14902.msg257455.html#msg257455

[GraemeA]

I wonder where shagging Alizee comes into Dimitry's training plan 

[robertostallioni]

Stubbs, you're so negative

[rodma]

Before you start a new topic next week, the one you need is here  http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14902.msg257455.html#msg257455

Unlikely; I always warm up thoroughly before drinking and eating