[Duncan Disorderly]

As the title suggests I've gone and spannered my finger somehow, not really sure what I've done but it's my middle finger just after the second joint (where a ring would go), and pretty effing painful to climb on, pick things up etc....

I'll probably go see a physio in the coming weeks but reckon that resting it is probably the key but I thought I'd consult the UKB oracle and see what training people could suggest for the ensuing enforced rest period..

Would it be best to focus on arm power (weights or assisted 1 armers for instance), keep the fingerboarding up but eliminate the offending digit, do some cross training, easy climbing.... etc, etc?

Just trying to get some ideas of how best to use my time else I get suckered into DIY, work or some other soul destroying domestic chore

Ta,

:D

 

[TobyD]

but reckon that resting it is probably the key

Hi DD, i'd say that depends on how it hurts, how much, and when.  If it hurts to do anything, or pick anything up, then yes, stop bloody climbing and see someone about it tomorrow!
If, for example, you're mainly getting a dull ache during climbing, personally, i would use the opportunity to do lots and lots of ARC stuff at an EASY level, this, as well as being valuable training anyway, will promote blood flow to your finger, thus theoretically hastening recovery. I would avoid buddy taping, repeatedly trying to use harder grip types without that finger etc etc, and focus on natural movement in a pain free (or severely pain limited) frame. I hope that helps: that is basically what I have been doing recently. T

[Duncan Disorderly]

Hi Toby,

Sage advice

Yea it started as a dull ache (I thought it was my hand at the start) but it's kinda solidified into a definite finger injury where pulling on anything even remotely small is pretty agonizing, because of the location of the pain big holds are not that much better (unless they're slopey) ... You are of course right, stopping "bloody climbing" on it is the key for a while.

I reckon I'll give it a week without pulling on it and do some basic strength and fitness work and see how it feels by next weekend and start AeroCap etc. then.

Cheers,

:D

[lukeh]

I would avoid buddy taping

Please could you expand upon/point me in the direction of some reading on that bit of advice? I've been buddy taping my ring finger to my little finger due to a mild flexor unit strain - It seems to allow me to climb as normal and reminds me not to over use my (damaged) ring finger...

Hopefully I've not been buggering it up further/causing more problems down the road!

[TobyD]

I would avoid buddy taping

It seems to allow me to climb as normal and reminds me not to over use my (damaged) ring finger...

Hopefully I've not been buggering it up further/causing more problems down the road!

That actually doesn't sound too bad: i'll dig up a paper when i have a bit more time, but my personal feeling is that stuff like this tends to (even very subtley) change how you use digits, and then increase the risk of injury later on. Any paper is more likely to be based around ankle / knee taping and runners, tennis players etc.
You then need to retrain appropriate technique of the origianally damaged region (and probaby associated bits too). But if it serves to remind you not to start boning down on tiny crimps, then it's a good idea! Just something to be aware of really i guess?

[shark]

Saunders is generally anti-taping unless you are using it as a splint to keep the finger straight:

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_bumwraps-thetruth.pdf

[Fiend]

Jamming cracks b2b Easy Trad. Gain skills rather than strength.

[TobyD]

Jamming cracks b2b Easy Trad. Gain skills rather than strength.

I would whole heartedly agree, other than it is December, and though i may live rather further south than you fiend, its not far enough south for there to be dry trad cracks at the moment! (Arapiles would probably fit the bill...)

[SA Chris]

Saunders is generally anti-taping unless you are using it as a splint to keep the finger straight:

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_bumwraps-thetruth.pdf

Saunders is tha man

[TobyD]

Saunders is generally anti-taping unless you are using it as a splint to keep the finger straight:

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_bumwraps-thetruth.pdf

 :agree:great link, sharky. I pretty much agree with all of that article, I particularly like his opinion of electrotherapy for tendon injuires. (and ultrasound in general)!
tape is not bad as a memory jog not to pull on that finger... although i suspect that this leads to many reinjuries anyway.

[tallsop]

A few years back i completely busted my A2 pulley, it went with a rate bang. I just did 3-4 months worth of one handed bouldering, which proved to be loads of fun, and taught me loads about body positioning, momentum use and timing. It also got the fingers on my right hand shit strong!

On the other hand, you could just rest, three months off wont hurt (too much)!

tom

[ducko]

I've got the same issue but not as severe I'd take time off then start doing easier climbs with tape then remove the tape and climb easy stuff also warm your fingers up well and Strech, seems to be helping me anyway