[shark]

11st 7-8

Week 5 of 16 of programme

Weight 11.7-8

M. Day Big rock rings sess. Eve. Shed Attempted AnCap and even AeroCap but burnt out 
T.  Rest (achey forearms)
W. Noon. AnCap on Sytems board - big progress    PM Weights
T.  Day Big rock rings session Eve Foundry with Tom. Couldnt face training so did 10 routes in Furnace.
F. Eve. Shed 3 goes at 12 move proj AeroCap 2 x 20/10= 240moves
S. Day. Minus Ten and Tor bouldering.
S. PM Shed Bit of bouldering 2 goes at 12 move proj AeroCap 3 x 20/10= 360moves

Week started a bit disasterously but got back on track - documented here

[tommytwotone]

STG - tick Cliff up to 6c+ in current guide
LTG - Font 7b

M - Nowt.
T - Dinner with works software supplier trying to keep us happy - huge meal, wine and plenty of beers.
W - Nowt, felt awful. Decided to quit drinking for the foreseeable future.
T - Nowt, still felt awful.
F - At snooker in York, watched Trump v Robertson, ended up as a late finish.
S - Day at a damp Cliff, but still dispatched a few of the outstanding problems, one quite hard as well. Out for a curry in the evening.
S - Lie in, breakfast and a very enjoyable session at The Depot with Grubes and another mate.

[fried]

Monday and Tuesday - not much.

Wednesday - Manage to fiddle around with my timetable and get the afternoon off work....indoor session + weights.

Thursday - Shoulder stuff.

Friday - Indoor session, twanged something in my shoulder (as predicted last week)
Saturday and Sunday - Brother-in-law is in Paris and he's a bit of an expert sports massager, so I get 2 sessions on my shoulders/ elbows/ upper back. Feel much better. Hopefully I'll be O.K. for a session tomorrow.

Weight as normal.

[wsmith]

M - Did some isolated hard moves in the garage. Then set up a new ancap circuit. 20 moves long. Then climbed it in sections, tweaked it and had a couple of goes at it. Feels good.

T - Rest

W- Rest

T - 7 goes at the new ancap circuit with 3 mins rest between each go. Falling between moves 10 and 17 which I think is about right. Recorded where I fell on each go in the hope of measuring some progress over time. Then did aerocap (I think its aerocap?) - 30 mins of nonstop climbing on the larger holds of the board, this maintained a light pump that I had to shake out. Tried to do another 30 mins after rest but only did 10 because of lack of skin and energy. Mustn't do these 2 sessions in 1 next time.

F - Rest

S - Checked out several wet crags before ending up at Curbar. Did Early Doors.

S - Explored 2 crags in Leicester that I hadnt been to before. Found a couple of problems that will be good projects when they dry out next year. Fingerboard in evening - a few max hangs and then repeaters.

Not a bad week but ideally would have done half of thursdays session on wednesday but didnt get the time.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same.

M: Tweaky finger's got worse so finished kickboard and tested a few problems - sore!
T: Finger felt better so did Pinks @ The Works -  Fun!
W: Finger's proper fuct!
T: Took boy to works - Campussed on big rungs.
F: Finger felt slightly better, planned a 4x4\AeroCap session @ The Edge but got let down at the last minute, went to Works - Realised that it's not at all better as couldn't do either crux on brown 7c and pulling even slightly hard hurt - a lot! 4 x 10 mins AeroCap on kids wall... Properly pissed off!
S: Fuct finger - get lurgy!
S: Fuct finger - lurgy seems to have subsided... Drink wine.

Big fat donkey cocking aseholes!!! Not quite sure what to do really. Know that climbing on this finger's bad news so need to have a think.... Might see what the UKB oracale says about training with a dodgy finger...

This week: Sulk!

[tomtom]

Nothing. Bah Humbug....

[rich d]

Mon nada
Tues pull ups + core
Wed pull ups + core
Thur nothing
Frid drinking lads night out
Sat pernod hangover
Sunday working
Rubbish week - could do better.

[Oldmanmatt]

Right, since last week was so... So... Crap! Time to join in the self flag club...
Aim - F8a before I'm 50
Sun - Sat= Nada!
Sun (11), 3hrs core, shoulders and chest.
And...
New resolve.

[shark]

Right, since last week was so... So... Crap! Time to join in the self flag club...
Aim - F8a before I'm 50
Sun - Sat= Nada!
Sun (11), 3hrs core, shoulders and chest.
And...
New resolve.

 

[duncan]

Right, since last week was so... So... Crap! Time to join in the self flag club...

It helps.

M - Bouldering at The Arch.  Arrived late, didn't warm-up properly, joined 'improvers' class (one can but hope), got sucked into competitive session trying to impress younger, female-er members of class.  Flashed a couple of V4s, suffered inevitable shoulder tweakage.  Rubbish session!
T - Aerobic Capacity - 4 x 8mins. 
W - Short run
T - Aerobic Capacity - 5 x 8mins; short run. 
F - Short run
S - Anaerobic Capacity - 24 x 6-7 move V2/3 on the 2 mins.
S -

In theory a bit of competition is good and climbing with others should help identify your weaknesses.  In practice I seem to train better without distraction! 

[shark]

Right, since last week was so... So... Crap! Time to join in the self flag club...

It helps.

M - Bouldering at The Arch.  Arrived late, didn't warm-up properly, joined 'improvers' class (one can but hope), got sucked into competitive session trying to impress younger, female-er members of class.  Flashed a couple of V4s, suffered inevitable shoulder tweakage.  Rubbish session!
T - Aerobic Capacity - 4 x 8mins. 
W - Short run
T - Aerobic Capacity - 5 x 8mins; short run. 
F - Short run
S - Anaerobic Capacity - 24 x 6-7 move V2/3 on the 2 mins.
S -

In theory a bit of competition is good and climbing with others should help identify your weaknesses.  In practice I seem to train better without distraction! 

Best power club post ever. Temptation, pride, punishment, redemption, atonemenet, and enlightenment all in one week. Biblical.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C/+ (9 done)
5 x 7A (5 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B (one 7A+ done)

M: rest
T: BM: max hangs (focus on back 2 and slopers), theraband, front lever & planche progressions
W: Department xmas do - managed to sprain my ankle! 
T: Recovery
F: More drinking and eating
S: see Friday
S: BM: max hangs (focus on back 2 and slopers), theraband, front lever & planche progressions

Worst week in months, but it was expected. This week will probably be more of the same although hope to get out at the weekend. Ankle isn't as bad as I thought although I have managed to slightly hurt my right-ring finger as well, so will do left-arm hangs this week. Recent niggles suggest that it will do me good to have an enforced rest over xmas and come back firing in the New Year.

[Luthor]

STG     - do some new boulder problems / train
MTG     - F8a sport
_______________________________________________

Mon     - Hour or so session @ Works. Didn't warm up properly and got on the pink blocs. Did some though. Left arm sore at end.
Tue     - 2 sessions @ Works. Did some more pink bloc problems, index fingers and elbow sore after.
Wed     - Rest
Thurs   - Light routes session at Foundry. Stuck to big holds and did more reps.
Fri     - rest
Sat     - rest
Sun     - rest

[nai]

stg- 7C
ltg - 8A, E4

M - Repeaters on slopers and pockets
T - Arms and shoulders, one armed the BM for the first time.
w - sore left elbow
t - sore r elbow? 1km swim - sore left knee?
F - the Baltic Works, mainly wasps, kept it fairly light in hope of getting out Saturday
S - tweaky left middle finger! Stride & Clifftop. Stride aims were wet so moved on, did Boing Boy but the problem on the left arete was wet, so have to go back again.
s rest

Big week coming up with a family-free weekend ahead of a couple of very light weeks over the school holidays, much needed it seems with so many niggles appearing in a few days.  Training for summer sport starts in Jan.

[TobyD]

stg: rehab finger tweak; train for El Chorro after Christmas

M Avon, utterly, miserably cold, did an e1 and an hvs, and went home to drink tea instead
T hour or so on the bike
W quay; couple of hours on 40 deg board, and 10 pitches up to 7a ish
T Plastic bouldering, couple of hours of fairly popwerful problems
F Ansteys, couple of E3s, couple of 7as, couple of repeaters / deadhangs on rockrings
S meadfoot, couple of fragile and slightly pumpy E3s; couple of sets of repeaters and pull ups on rockrings
S quay; warm up, 5-10 goes on 40 deg power problems; about 12 or so pitches up to 7a+, a couple of up-down-ups.

[TobyD]

M: Tweaky finger's got worse so finished kickboard and tested a few problems - sore!
T: Finger felt better so did Pinks @ The Works -  Fun!
W: Finger's proper fuct!
T: Took boy to works - Campussed on big rungs.
F: Finger felt slightly better, planned a 4x4\AeroCap session @ The Edge but got let down at the last minute, went to Works - Realised that it's not at all better as couldn't do either crux on brown 7c and pulling even slightly hard hurt - a lot!

DD, like most climbers, you have massively misunderstood how to manage any sort of injury with continued activity. Any sort of campussing is ridiculous, if you have any sort of tweak like that. A 7c crux might be appropriate rehab if you were Adam Ondra, and your fingers were used to half pad monos 6 days a week on 100%... I don't know what your level is really, but overkeenness is the enemy of rehab!  Continued climbing is good, but we are talking, not 7c, not 7a make it more like 6a!   good luck with the rest of the recovery...

[iain]

STG: stare into space hoping for biblical revelations, figure out a scientifically based training plan  I can apply on the fb, hopefully get out for some real climbing this weekend

Weight: 65.2 average, down .3 on last week

M:  fb max hangs
T: fb redpoint workout
W: rest
T: Warmed up and attempted session but was rubbish
F: Couldn't face the monotony
S: Still couldn't face the monotony, meal and 
S: Warmed up and attempted session but was still rubbish

Not a great training week, but spent some time this week trying to figure out what would be more constructive than my random ideas of what to do. Read lots of useful stuff around training, (including the Shark's blog, thanks for writing about what you're doing,) and will try and come up with something concrete to start applying from next week.
In the meantime more work and continued fiddling with the fingerboard to keep things ticking over

one armed the BM for the first time.

  That must've felt good!

[Duncan Disorderly]

DD, like most climbers, you have massively misunderstood how to manage any sort of injury with continued activity.

I've basically been in denial this last couple of weeks... 

[Oldmanmatt]

A bit swamped with projects going into 2012. The 300m multi-pitch is exciting but a distraction from the harder sport climbing, for which I need to get stronger and fitter. And all involving too much driving to access. Taking a couple of days off work this week to get things moving.

Not sure being fitter and stronger will be too much of a handicap on the multi pitch...

[205Chris]

M: Tweaky finger's got worse so finished kickboard and tested a few problems - sore!
T: Finger felt better so did Pinks @ The Works -  Fun!
W: Finger's proper fuct!
T: Took boy to works - Campussed on big rungs.
F: Finger felt slightly better, planned a 4x4\AeroCap session @ The Edge but got let down at the last minute, went to Works - Realised that it's not at all better as couldn't do either crux on brown 7c and pulling even slightly hard hurt - a lot!

DD, like most climbers, you have massively misunderstood how to manage any sort of injury with continued activity.

Tape and Ibuprofen isn't it? 

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Easing back into training

M: office gym, weights: tgus, one-arm pulldowns, shoulders (no squats because step-ups yesterday)
T:
W: indoor bouldering, Thalkirchen
T:
F: yoga
S:
S: Family day out, Spitzingsee: walk up to hut, lunch, sledge down. This sort of thing is part of why I have no plans to return to the UK. Evening: indoor bouldering, Thalkirchen. Linked four moves on my "way harder than I have tried before" project, yyfy.

[duncan]

DD, like most climbers, you have massively misunderstood how to manage any sort of injury with continued activity. Any sort of campussing is ridiculous, if you have any sort of tweak like that. A 7c crux might be appropriate rehab if you were Adam Ondra, and your fingers were used to half pad monos 6 days a week on 100%... I don't know what your level is really, but overkeenness is the enemy of rehab!  Continued climbing is good, but we are talking, not 7c, not 7a make it more like 6a!   good luck with the rest of the recovery...

Excellent advice.  You'll do yourself out of a job.

[webbo]

Goal. Recover from back injury.
M. Nothing back a little better.
T. Weights and max hangs. Didn't complete my usual D/H routine kept sliding off some the holds may have been due to conditions.
W. Repeaters struggled due to it being so cold in the garage.
Th. weights increased weight on curls and tricep press.
F. Bouldering Rockcity struggled but first session for 11 days,very tentative.Biceps felt tired.
S. Shopping with the missus.
Su. Bouldering Leeds wall reasonable session managed 4 v5s and most of the greens.

Back still aches pain in the arse literally but seems to be improving.

[Fiend]

DD, like most climbers, you have massively misunderstood how to manage any sort of injury with continued activity. Any sort of campussing is ridiculous, if you have any sort of tweak like that. A 7c crux might be appropriate rehab if you were Adam Ondra, and your fingers were used to half pad monos 6 days a week on 100%... I don't know what your level is really, but overkeenness is the enemy of rehab!  Continued climbing is good, but we are talking, not 7c, not 7a make it more like 6a!   good luck with the rest of the recovery...

In Dunc's defense, despite him being an idiotic choad and training/grade obsessed to the point of inducing nausea, he does have an uncanny habit of getting seemingly irrepairably injured and somehow recovering in the mere fraction of the time that a normal, less choadly person would   I wouldn't be surprised if he completely ruptures a pulley training now, and then because he "has" to tick Font 7b in Font at Easter, miraculously fully recovers by then (and still doesn't tick 7b in Font but it's an excuse for more training).

Much to the chagrin of those people who are have lifetime and/or multi-month recovery injuries. 

[Duncan Disorderly]

In Dunc's defense, despite him being an idiotic choad and training/grade obsessed to the point of inducing nausea,

Remind me to to employ you if I ever get in trouble with the police or anytyhing like that.... I'm going to take the rest of your post as a backhanded compliment but please stop stalking me and go back to biffing up VDiffs and eating deep fried marsbars

[TobyD]

Excellent advice.  You'll do yourself out of a job.

cheers!  It's good to know that I'm not spouting total rubbish all the time


Fiend, the answer to your wonder over DD's training / injury / recovery conundrum is that he isn't actually ever recovering properly.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Fiend, the answer to your wonder over DD's training / injury / recovery conundrum is that he isn't actually ever recovering properly.

I think in this particular instance you may be right but what Fnid refers to runs deeper than just a couple of finger and shoulder injuries: meniscus tear and a hamstring rupture being 2 pretty big injuries that a) I recovered quickly from and b) havent shown any sign of recurring. The reasons for these in the first place is a whole other can of worms

Also I've been completely injury free for over a year and a half now so "(n)ever actually recovering properly" is a bit harsh... On balance it's probably because I do "tend" to heal pretty quickly that I ignored this tweak and am now paying the price... 

:D

[nai]

one armed the BM for the first time.

  That must've felt good!

It felt great until I woke the following morning with that all to familiar nag in my left elbow.  Luckily, taking it easy since has meant the only mild reoccurence was yesterday after a prolonged bout of toddler wrestling.  If it makes it through to Monday there'll be about 10 days until I climb again  so hopefully it'll be ok to start again in Jan