So, what are your top tips that may help me become a better climber
'serious beastmakerification'
if I'm not going for max power I do 6 sets of 10 seconds hangs on various holds. so, each hold gets at least 1 minute of pure deadhanging time.I generally do: 20°, big rung, 35°, 45° (less than 10 secons for each hang), slopey pockets, back two big, back two medium, index mono small (less than 10 secons for each hang), middle mono, middle two small, back three small rung, front three small rung. I do them in this sequence, otherwise doing 6 sets straight on the same hold skin becomes a bit of an issue to me. this way you also get longer rests between sets on the same hold so you can push more.chosing many different holds and prehensions, so that you get more than 10 minutes of deadhanging time, to me is a good session. it seems little but for me it's not. I climb a lot on my board right now, and it's intense, so on "easy" days I do this kind of fingerboarding session, to maintain a decent level. if I want to push things I do one armed assisted (or not) dead hangs. hope this helps.
Try improving your footwork.
10 sec is quite a long time for hangs - you said this is not for maximal power though?Be interested to know how long other people hang for. Is there any science to support hang times?I usually aim for sets of 6 reps: 6 sec hangs with 4 sec rests on any given hold combination - if the last two reps are desperate I feel like it's a good level of intensity.
All sounds like too much hard work to me. My plan is to invoke the SCIENCE of homeopathy: I'm going to achieve morphic resonance with Jonh Gaskins by shaving some hairs off. Let the crushin' begin...
Okay so I've been thinking a bit about training today and I've come up with a supplemental fingerboard session to target a certain grip type that I think I'm weak at. I plan to do this for a 4 week block when I ramp up the training in the new year. Subsequent 4 week blocks will target another perceived grip weakness.1 - 2 sessions a week. With other climbing.One arm assisted hangs.Right hand: 7s on, 3s rest, 7s on, 3s rest, 7s on, 3s rest.Left hand: same2 minutes rest.6 - 8 sets.For 6 sets this would give 2.06 mins total hang time on each arm for a workout that is 15 minutes. Not including warming up.This is a mix between repeaters (which I think are an anaerobic endurance exercise) and max hangs (recruitment). Am I right in thinking that this should lie in the strength / hypertrophy regime? And result in bigger and stronger forearms?Cheers!