[fried]

Since I have 25 minutes to kill before Pastis o'clock...

Monday - indoor session + weights
Tuesday - Thursday - Not much, some shoulder stuff
Friday - indoor session + weights
Saturday - Shoulder stuff
Sunday-  hungover indoor session + weights

Really good to get 3 sessions in, even if they were all inside. I had one of those magic moments where either my finger strength or technique has improved enough that even stuff I could only just do a few weeks ago is starting to feel easier. It's not so much my grade has improved as that it feels easier to do the stuff i normally do, and I feel like I've got a chance to do stuff a bit harder.

Something will no doubt break soon.

Weight same as.

[tomtom]

Friday: Plantation. Crapness. But good to be out.
Sunday: Beastmaker deadhangs (yet to do!)

Motivation low... work high... hopefully these will swap soon...

On this positives I'm on a record low of 11 stn 5 now...

[rich d]

Loads of travelling with work
Monday pull ups and pressups + a bit of core
Tuesday 2 hours at avertical in dundee (grades who knows? Low and bumbly though)
Wednesday a little bit of core
Thursday - nothing drove back from edinburgh and ate loads of crap in the car
Friday - beer
Saturday - more beer
Sunday - short pull ups sess from loft - had 2 hours set aside for fingerboarding in the garage - but coz the kid's pressies are in there I can only do this when the kids are asleep - so that disappeared.
Put tree up and made some mince pies.
This week - less work travel - so lots at home, then hopefull out at caley/cliff for am sess on saturday.

[shark]

11st 7-8

Week 4 of 16 of programme (Easy week)

M.
T.
W.
T. Eve Shed. Cold. Found it really hard to warm up. A bit of bouldering   
F. PM. Messed around with weights
S. Tweaked back which was a reminder. 5K Park Run with Poppy in filthy weather. Tor. Rock amazingly dry. Enjoyable group sess on Weedkiller. A bit of progress and a bit of noticeable finger strength gain. Eve. Drank and ate too much.
S. 

Unfortunately Tom ill so benchmarking sess cancelled. Good recovery week. Booked to go skiing over xmas cunningly  coinciding with next planned rest week. Off for a drink now... 

 

[nai]

M - Burgabe South, did Scratch Scoop.
T - max hangs, assisted lockoffs, pressups, core.
w
T - RHS & Cratcliffe (poor choice, was very green) failed on Grizzly Arete, failed to commit to the move on Razor Arete, failed to repeat Razor Roof, just about failed to reach the top of Wish.
F - Secret Garden - did Nige's Problem in a few goes then joined in with a party on Dick Williams, harvested beta and had several goes to the rock up move off the pockets but no tick, did link overlapping sections tho so just need a link.
s- some core
S - Repeaters on pockets and slopers.

Amazing the psyche difference waking up Sat morning to Friday morning, a little bit of progress, the chance of knocking one off the ticklist and it's back from wherever it's been hiding since August.  Now to await a dry day...

[Luthor]

STG  - do some new boulder problems / train / not get injured
MTG  - F8a

Mon     - Rest
Tue     - Bouldering at Works at lunchtime & again after work. Bloc probs, comp wall & circuit board
Wed     - Routes at Foundry
Thurs   - Bouldering at Works
Fri     - Bouldering at Stanton Moor. Did 'Brads arete.. the presence of absence'. Amazing problem.
Sat     - Found dry rock at the Roaches!!! Did 'Sleeping with Flowers' and worked 'The Gutter'
Sun     - Rest

[duncan]

M-S: Nothing (some usual shoulder, leg strengthening stuff).

I seem to have taken the rest week concept a bit more seriously than shark...

[TobyD]

M 35 min run
T Quay, bouldering
W Avon, warm up or two, a great E5 (low profile) and a fairly dodgy E3 (last slip)
T laps on Before the Storm on a shunt
F a few gully wall circuits
S Quay, bit of power stuff on 40deg board, some easy circuits and routes up to 7a
S shunt laps  (about 8 pitches) at Chudleigh, few repeaters on rock rings

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C/+ (9 done)
5 x 7A (5 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B (one 7A+ done)

M: BM: max hangs on slopers and one arm rungs, theraband, front lever and planche progressions
T: BM: max hangs on slopers and back 2, theraband, front lever and planche progressions
W: rest
T: BM: max hangs on slopers and back 2, theraband, front lever and planche progressions
F: rest, tweaked back so went for a sports massage
S: bouldering at Stoney, managed a 7A+ at -10
S: very short session at the Churnet

Good training this week, I have been avoiding using my right middle finger after a niggle a couple of weeks ago but it seems to be sorted now. Really pleased to get the 7A+ done, now for the 7B (seems unlikely as I may only get out a couple more times before xmas but you never know!)

[shark]

T Quay, bouldering
S Quay, bit of power stuff on 40deg board, some easy circuits and routes up to 7a

What's this place like ? Says the routes are up to 14metres - is that real metres or Rockfax ones ?

[chris j]

14m + 4m overhanging is about right - when I land after lowering off the longest route on the prow the 30m mark on my rope is just leaving the ground.

Routes - there's a good selection at grades up to probably 7a+/7b then tailing off with the hardest I think around 8a.
Bouldering - quite limited but I understand there are plans being formed to improve this, but not a short term fix.
Coffee, cakes, hot chocolate - excellent & good value too!

Toby - how are conditions at Chudleigh at the mo? Much seepage yet?

[iain]

Feeling motivated and climbing well (for me) again after a long period of bumbling. Work means not a lot of outdoor climbing possible just now, so back to the fingerboard it is.

STG: Do Nightmare Scenario without the 30s rest, (might get back there before christmas), get weight back under control and down to 63kg average, currently 65.5 (no wonder, see below)

M work
T Attempted max hangs but hadn't recovered from previous weekend, pizza
W work
T work, but then broke and headed up to Reading wall for a fun session. Did lots and fell off lots highlighting my complete inability to dyno
F work, left alone for the evening so resorted to chinese takeaway
S work, then a healthy evening meal consisting of crisps, cheese and biscuits and wine. Yum.
S work, and a brief PE fingerboard.

Given my limited access to a wall I've started trying to simulate redpointing on a fingerboard by doing 4 minutes of repeaters, 5 reps per minute to allow for chalking effectively giving 20 moves per hand, (a fingerboard equivalent of 4x4's maybe)
Anyone tried anything like this? I quite like doing it as it results in a proper fight to hang on but jury's out on whether it's doing me any good.

fairly dodgy E3 (last slip)

That's a serious looking route. A friend tried it earlier this year and wound up wobbling his way back to the belay and he doesn't scare easily. Way beyond my mentality.

[shark]

M-S: Nothing (some usual shoulder, leg strengthening stuff).

I seem to have taken the rest week concept a bit more seriously than shark...

  Next time I'll call it an under-reaching week

[nai]

Given my limited access to a wall I've started trying to simulate redpointing on a fingerboard by doing 4 minutes of repeaters, 5 reps per minute to allow for chalking effectively giving 20 moves per hand, (a fingerboard equivalent of 4x4's maybe)
Anyone tried anything like this? I quite like doing it as it results in a proper fight to hang on but jury's out on whether it's doing me any good.

I've done it, yes, in fact I'm thinking of doing it right now because the garage will be really cold.  With feet on a step ladder so moving them around too, replicating the 4x4 format.  I mixed up the intensity and duration between 2-5 minutes but stuck with the 7on 3off format of repeaters, can't see the need to chalk that frequently or stay on holds that much longer when redpointing 20 moves vs bouldering seven. I'm sure it did some good, not as good as circuits obviously but certainly better than nothing.

One thing to be wary of is not making life easy so have a sequence of holds, if you're just using random holds you can start making it easier when things start to get tough late in the sesssion and maybe won't be training as hard as you might think.  And keep reassuring yourself that there is a reason for this monotony, that it is doing you some good, it might make that .05% of difference that you need and that it will all be worth it one day.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always.

M: Mileage session @ The works - 70+ problems, as little rest as possible.
T: Weights and AeroCap on BM (100+ moves with feet on chair).
W: Power session @ The works - Yellow and Blacks and Comp wall.
T: Planned AnCap on board but tweaky finger put pay to this - Did isolated hard moves (avoiding dodgy finger).
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Board redesign and setting (finger still tweaky so stayed away from planned fingerboard session).

Not a bad week, sleep pattern is calming down. Finger's being a bit of a pain at the moment, not too sore in general so is fine for AeroCap and slopey stuff but really falls apart when pulling harder on it so being careful.

This week: Supposed easy week coming up but not really been over reaching this past 3 so will probably keep up the same amount of training but concentrate on AeroCap to ensure the finger's not too stressed and to keep with the programme...   Will ramp it up the week after Ifinger permitting).

[iain]

Cheers Nai, good to know I'm not the only one, and the step ladder is a good idea to get some movement, (persuading my wife the ladder will look good in the living room is another matter.)

[webbo]

STG.Recover from bad back.
M. Rockcity first climbing for 10 days,climbed ok probably better than before my back went. However by the time I got home it had stiffened up again.
T. Nothing other back stretches.
W. Back felt ok but when i started warming to do some weights it went in to a major spasm.Dragged myself to the docs for painkillers and muscle relaxants.
Th. In bed most of the day spaced out on medication.
F. Back a bit better.Did some deadhanging went ok managed o/h front 3 on top deep with 4 lbs for 6 secs.Hung middle slot 4 fingers o/h 2/3 secs.Walked for an hour.
S. Back improving. Weights B/P 6x 65k, 2 x70k.Repeaters 2 x4 sets.walked 1 hr 15 mins.
Su. Walked 2 hrs with missus.

Not a great week but back getting better.
 

[leeroy]

m - at plantation, deliverance sent and decent links on brass monkeys when tired
tu - couple of hours working out stump hole cavern to no avail
w - baslow, worked flatworld and its lh. close on lh
th - session on terrace, no progress
f - brass monkeys again, no progress
sa - almscliffe, nearly did underhand, will be back
su - well needed rest due to woeful weather in peak.

[205Chris]

STG: Climb outside....

M: Campus session at the works. Felt quite light after being ill all day on Sunday to set my new PB.
T: 4x4s on garage board
W: Nada
T: More campus work and some of the new pinks.
F: Nada
S: Went in search of dry rock. Got as far as Stoney before turning round. Obviously should have carried onto the Tor 

S.Tor. Rock amazingly dry. Enjoyable group sess on Weedkiller.

Went to the works instead. Lots of pinks ticked off.
S: More rain. Campus at the works and do a few more pinks.

Once again completely fail to climb outside this week. This is starting to get annoying now......

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

No-climbing rest week number two.

M: bike to work 23km
T: resting
W: bike to work 25km
T: Christmas dinner with work 
F: Weights: turkish get-ups, goblet squats, one-arm pulldowns, shoulders, core
S:
S: Alpine approach training: 30 mins step-ups w/heavy rucksack

[tommytwotone]

STG - Cliff tickage
LTG - Font 7b

M - Productive board session, made a point of trying new stuff rather than  on previous projects
T - Nowt, cooked a curry
W - Depot, good session on the new red (V5 - V7) circuit, flashed a couple too.
T - Nowt, quiet night in and packed for the weekend.
F - UKB Pissup at The Sheaf, great night - top turnout from a good many regular posters. Good to be able to put names to faces.
S - Early start, hangover, train to Bishop's Stortford for BS FC vs. Blyth Spartans. A good few beers during and after.
S - Leisurely lunch / coffees and then a delayed train home.

[shark]

S: Went in search of dry rock. Got as far as Stoney before turning round. Obviously should have carried onto the Tor 

Word was you bailed because you were sniffy at the prospect of moving sideways

[TobyD]

Routes - there's a good selection at grades up to probably 7a+/7b then tailing off with the hardest I think around 8a.

Bouldering - quite limited but I understand there are plans being formed to improve this, but not a short term fix.

Toby - how are conditions at Chudleigh at the mo? Much seepage yet?

The routes are ok, but suffer from not being great style for training (not sustained enough, too many volumes, too many jugs!) Pleasant to climb, rubbish for getting fit (hence trips to Chuds with a shunt!)

Bouldering, very limited at the moment in my opinion, would graduate to merely limited if they sorted out the 40 deg board with more holds, ,and swapped all the nasty sharp edged jugs for wood crimps pinches and slopers!

Chuds is awesome, mostly dry, ,apart from a few small spots.

[TobyD]

fairly dodgy E3 (last slip)

That's a serious looking route. A friend tried it earlier this year and wound up wobbling his way back to the belay and he doesn't scare easily. Way beyond my mentality.

Indeed, it is the sort of thing that a lot of people could wobble their way up (because it's not very hard at all) but would be extremely easy to fall off for almost anyone as well. If you have a realistic appreciation of what's going to happen to you if you do fall high in the groove, it is a bit nasty.

[wsmith]

First time posting in here but guess ill give it a try and see if I can make it a regular thing.
STG: Get fit again after a period of just bouldering since September. Have seen decent strength gains from the bouldering/campusing/finger boarding but started to feel a few tweaks last week so took that as a sign to get back on the fitness next week.
MTG/LTG: Tick 8a+ next year, had a few goes on Rumble at WCJ Cornice this year. Got close on Statement at LPT so want to go back for that next year too. Also hoping to spend a month or so in Ceuse over the summer so want to get in good shape for then.

M: rest
T: bouldering at warwick + campusing - laddering, max throws, doubles and offset pullups.
W: gym- assisted 1 arm lock offs, lat pulldown, frontlever type core and some antagonist weights stuff. fingerboard later on - max hangs
T: First routes session since end of August - nothing structured, just trying the routes at warwick. Feel stonger but very pumped!!
F: rest
S: went to curbar for the first time, did gorilla warfare and then it rained so went to the tor, also for the first time, did weedkiller traverse and bashers problem then had a play on rattle and hump.
S: 45 min Fingerboard - mainly repeaters on crimps.

Psyched to start getting back on routes with a renewed motivation for endurance training. Will be making some new circuits in the garage next week for that.

[shark]

Hi wsmith

 

Good to climb with you on Sat. How do you find the jump on Rumble?. Do you train with Alex Fry ?

[shark]

Is that a route that would once have had a critical peg but now doesn't? I am sure it was E1 or E2 BITD.

I did this in 2005 and got the fear and then when putting it in the UKC logbook discovered I'd done it already in 1996 - clearly unmemorably. I assumed in the intervening years I'd turned into a wuss.

[duncan]

I did this in 2005 and got the fear and then when putting it in the UKC logbook discovered I'd done it already in 1996 - clearly unmemorably. I assumed in the intervening years I'd turned into a wuss.

Award yourself a grey-point.

Is that a route that would once have had a critical peg but now doesn't? I am sure it was E1 or E2 BITD.

I think it was E2 in the Monks guide (the same guide had Quick Flash at HVS; it's now E5).  It was cover star of the Drummond guide and Ed. was clearly very proud of his creation.   It has a bolt-protected 5c move followed by a thought provoking 5b section.  E3 for the 5b bit.  Brilliant archetypal Avon groovy scariness, falling off near the top might well be your Last Slip.   I must go back and do it again next time the gorge is closed. 

[iain]

It has a bolt-protected 5c move followed by a thought provoking pant filling 5b section.  E3 for the 5b death on a stick bit.  Brilliant archetypal Avon groovy scariness, falling off near the top might well be your Last Slip.   I must go back and do it flirt with death again next time the gorge is closed. 

 

 

I'll stick to routes with gear thanks, I'm too much of a wuss to learn how to do stuff like that now. A route I'd feel no shame doing on second.

[i_a_coops]

M
T - Arsed around on plastic bloc before a disastrous aerocap session.
W
T - Very similar to Wednesday, except I climbed better and found myself suddenly able to do both V8s so ticked all the bouldering now. Terrible aerocap session.
F
S - Curbar, puntered up Trackside, Gorilla Warfare + Early Doors. Rain forced retreat to the Tor, got schooled on Short Chimes.
S - Cuttings. Flailed on Breathing Method. Just about managed each move through the crux section individually, must have bad beta for the last hard move though as it felt fully 7B/+ in its own right, let alone having just done all the gaston-tastic lurching around beforehand.

Psyched to get back on Short Chimes with a bit more skin.

For some reason my aerocap regime seems to have crashed and burned, I got turbopumped from 10 min on jugs on a vertical wall both times this week? While last week I was after for 25 minutes mainly on steeper ground. Off to Chorro next Saturday, this does not bode well.

[Three Nine]

You should have done all your aerocap by now Ian. Your base training should be long past and you should be getting your taper on!

[wsmith]

Hi wsmith

 

Good to climb with you on Sat. How do you find the jump on Rumble?. Do you train with Alex Fry ?

Hi
For me the jump was the second hardest move on Rumble, the hardest being the move to the sloper. Need to sort some decent foot beta though! Im sure the jump will be the redpoint crux.
I dont train with Alex but am friends with him and have been on a few trips with him. Hes not at warwick these days, hes now at the northampton wall which get over too when possible as its far better than warwick!
Will

[shark]

Another....

Care to spill the beans on what, if any, training your dad does....