[shark]

11st 6-10

Week 3 of 16 of programme

M. PM. Tor. Tried Weedkiller in my underpants  . Last bit sorted. Eve Shed. Bit greasy. AnCap. Desultory first set then took a dose of MTFU and did good on next two. 
T. Day. Deadhangs (Front2 Back2 combo with assistance) felt tired. Eve. Foundry with Poppy - close on Red on steep section.
W. Day. Weights sess. Eve. Shed. AeroCap. Only time for 2 sets before Peak Area meet. Out table crushed in quiz. Again. Dave and Nige hosting next year. Won a pair of Blox trousers - cheers Adam 
T. Noon. Systems board. Made AnCap sess harder by using smaller feet going down. Thought it would be too ambitious but crushed.   
F.
S. PM Tor with Poppy and Tom. Cooold. The Pooch and Chris WP and crew were out. I didnt impress them or myself  on Weedkiller. 
S. AM. Minus 10. Lovely conditions. Bimbled about.

Dipped out of some AeroCap sessions as felt ragged. Went a bit ga-ga this weekend - weight all over the place too. Easier week planned and needed.
 

[tomtom]

Cheers for starting the thread el Sharkio...

A lax busy work week for me...

Only outing an hour or so on WSS on Friday.. Bit of beastmakerage on Saturday...

[rich d]

This week seems very blurry. Several long work days. Did a few nights of pull ups, core and pressups. Didn't get out at the weekend. Managed to avoid drinking during the week again. Weight down to 85kg another 5kg to go. Slowly happening. Goals this week, survive work (london, glasgow, edinburgh, aberdeen, london) without drinking and doing some core. Get out on Saturday for a few hours.

[i_a_coops]

M
T - power on steep board followed by 25 min aerocap
W
T - power + p.e. on steep board, followed by half arsed attempt at foot on campusing for low end p.e., decided it was mainly training my boredom threshold and resistance to glassy fingertip agony.
F
S
S Cheddar. Climbed pretty cack due to lack of sleep but at least managed to wobble up a nice 7b+.

Got the all clear to have another operaton to have my screws taken out!

[Three Nine]

11st 6-10

Week 3 of 16 of programme

M. PM. Tor. Tried Weedkiller in my underpants  . Last bit sorted. Eve Shed. Bit greasy. AnCap. Desultory first set then took a dose of MTFU and did good on next two. 
T. Day. Deadhangs (Front2 Back2 combo with assistance) felt tired. Eve. Foundry with Poppy - close on Red on steep section.
W. Day. Weights sess. Eve. Shed. AeroCap. Only time for 2 sets before Peak Area meet. Out table crushed in quiz. Again. Dave and Nige hosting next year. Won a pair of Blox trousers - cheers Adam 
T. Noon. Systems board. Made AnCap sess harder by using smaller feet going down. Thought it would be too ambitious but crushed.   
F.
S. PM Tor with Poppy and Tom. Cooold. The Pooch and Chris WP and crew were out. I didnt impress them or myself  on Weedkiller. 
S. AM. Minus 10. Lovely conditions. Bimbled about.

Dipped out of some AeroCap sessions as felt ragged. Went a bit ga-ga this weekend - weight all over the place too. Easier week planned and needed.

1. why underpants?
2. glad its not just me who cant do the red on the wave
3. love the Pooch 

[shark]

1. why underpants?

It was "Dress-Down Monday" at the tor. Unfortunately the Pooch wasn't there.

[Fultonius]

Now much to report this week.

Did some bolton complexes one night after a short run. Mountainbiking both days on the weekend.

Hopefully fingers will be ok by midweek for some easy stuff...

[Tommy]

1. why underpants?

It was "Dress-Down Monday" at the tor. Unfortunately the Pooch wasn't there.

Good skills Simon. I did that on Green Traverse at Stanage on a cold winter day. Felt psyched.

Never get in between a psyched man, his underpants and a set of greasy crimps.

[Luthor]

not posted for a few weeks

STG  - do some new boulder problems / work moves on a new PE circuit for training / not get injured
MTG  - F8a

Mon     - Works at lunchtime: general sess
Tue     - Works at lunchtime: comp wall and worked new PE circuit
Wed     - Rest
Thurs   - Bouldering at Froggatt. Tried Rambeau - one to go back to soon. Routes at Foundry - nice to be back on a rope 
Fri     - Light bouldering at Works
Sat     - 5km Parkrun. Bouldering at RHS / Cratcliffe. Did the blobby version of the Cave problem and repeated a few things. Good day out!
Sun     - Rest day, need a couple more I think.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C/+ (9 done)
5 x 7A (5 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

M: BM: slopers and one-arm max hangs & theraband
T: rest
W: 3xDB complex, assisted one arm workout, core & theraband
T: 3 xDB complex, 4m run, theraband, planche and front-lever progressions
F: planche and front-lever progressions
S: Bouldering at Stoney, did a new 6C, came close to a 7A+ (hopefully get it next time).
S: rest (no car)

Been taking care of a tweaked finger from last weekend which is hopefully going in the right direction if I can avoid doing anything stupid!

[duncan]

M - 20 x V2/3 on the 2.5 minute.  Anaerobic Capacity for me?
T - 3 x 8minutes continuous climbing with 3/10 pump.  Aerobic Capacity?
W - Short run
T -  12 x long V2/3 on the 5 minutes.  Did a pull-up, was so shocked that I managed two more.  Legendary Feats of Strength here I come! 
F - 3 x 10 mins continuous climbing. Short run.
S - Epic drive to Wimbledon past every Nando's in South London, family stuff, felt run-down.
S - Dancing Ledge quarry with the scourge of the bolt clippers.  Warmed up.  Attempted 'Haunted by a Million Screams' (6c++).  Couldn't pull.  Worked the moves.  The "jug haul" felt desperate, the technical crux OK, the top moves will be exciting when tired.  Had a long rest,  attempted to top-rope it and fell off the start.

A little disappointed to fail so comprehensively on a 6c+ after onsighting 7a a couple of weeks ago.  Taking the longer view, I've had 4 good training weeks and had been planning to take it easy for a few days.  I'm uninjured, markedly stronger, have had admiring comments about my biceps from several people, and did a pull-up for the first time in years (yyfy). 

A week off then resume "capacity" stuff 'til to the end of the year.

[fried]

Monday - indoor quick session + some weights.
Tuesday - Thursday - Various shoulder stuff.
Friday - good indoor session, lots of new stuff to try. +weights.
Saturday - nothing
Sunday - Drei Zinnen, Everythings a bit damp although I find a traverse to play on. Leave the mat in the car and have a walk around Mont pivot, Rocher du sabots, 91.1. still pretty damp, but play on a few things.

weight 75.2kg

[205Chris]

Think I missed last week, so here's two in one:

M: Nada
T: Home board session
W: Nada
T: Routing at the edge. Fairly rubbish session
F: Home board session
S: Nada
S: Few things at Cratcliffe / RHS. Flash brain dead on both sides, do grizzly arete and the kid.

M: Works - Lots of the new wasp circuit
T: 4x4s on home board
W: Nada
T: Home board session
F: Nada
S: Damp in the north peak, went for a walk instead
S: Ill all day.

Frustrating few weeks. Still struggling to get out on the grit. Plans to get out yestrerday had to be shelved due to picking up a stomach bug and being ill all day. On the plus side I might have lost a few lbs.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Dreampoint F9c.. (sorry, sleep deprivation must be getting to me - to sleep long enough to dream about such unattainable heights would be enough at the moment)

Real goals: F7c+, F8a, Font 7B+, don't get too fat and weak to make these goals unattainable!

M: Beastmaker - Neds PF plan.... Shit the bed! Felt harder than last year on all except the crimps! 
T: Bouldering @ The works - Power session... Did nuff new wasps....
W: Rest - Hurty right hand
T: Bouldering @ The works - Tried to do boulder laps but too many bloody people, just did loads of steady problems with as little rest as possible (to be honest they all felt nails as I'd only managed 1.5 hrs sleep the night previous - must have looked a right mess!)
F: Chill
S: Walk int peak
S: 4 hrs continuious sleep followed by a further 3 hrs - YYFY  Number one daughter's finally getting the idea.... Long may it continue.

Did a bit, not as much as I wanted but considering how I felt for most of the week I'm happy with that... Bit worried about the hurting hand, feels like general stiffness that eases up with use which is good but can also feel like 2 tweaky fingers - will keep an eye.

This week: sleep more, climb more, eat less....

:D

[nai]

M - max hangs & lockoffs
T - shoulders and arms
w-f nowt
S - max hangs & lockoffs
s - nowt

[webbo]

M. Nothing back still bad.
T. Weights and deadhangs. A few more reps on bench press and tried hanging some of the holds I can't normally use,managed 2 secs on some.Did some one handed stuff.
W. Nothing still struggling with back pain.
Th. Nothing.
F. Weights and deadhanging struggling a bit greasing off holds.
S. Back feeling better bike 2 hrs 15 mins.
Su. Weights and dead hanging. Managed 3 reps at 65k and 1 at 70k.All I need to do is get my weight back to 11 stone and I can rep body weight.Drive to Warrington and back to visit mother.

Back still feels stiff and painful if I sit for any length of time.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

No-climbing rest week.

M: bike to work 23km
T: yoga
W: resting
T: resting
F: Weights: turkish get-ups, goblet squats, shoulders, core
S: yoga
S: bodyweight exercises: rings & core

[chris_j_s]

Deadhangs (Front2 Back2 combo with assistance)

   Front 2 back 2 combo sounds like a full hand!! No thumb though, huh?   

[fried]

Maybe that's the assistance..

[shark]

Deadhangs (Front2 Back2 combo with assistance)

   Front 2 back 2 combo sounds like a full hand!! No thumb though, huh?   

Using Front 2 on one hand and back 2 the other then swap (with foot in a counterweighted sling) .

I'd rather do a single arm work but this puts less pressure on my elbow which has golfers.