[tommytwotone]

Righto, I'll kick off this week!

M - Nowt
T - Lacklustre board session, seem to have lost all power / core / psyche in the last few weeks
W - Nowt
T - Half decent wall session pottering
F - Nowt
S - Battle Of Britain at The Depot. Climbed shit, dropped a good few probs from last hold on the flash, earning me a really crap score 
S - Up early in the murky fog for The Abbey Dash 10k. First race I've done since last year's and haven't done any training whatsoever. Imagine my surprise when I still got round sub-50.

[rich d]

Mine won't take long.
Mon to Friday work and hugely long days.
Sat am nice easy circuits in lovely weather at Burbizzle South
Sun 2 1/2 hours sleep due to drinking. Now sat in a kids play thing at a birthday party - no chance of any exercise this evening, due to extreme tiredness and mild hangover. 
The slow weight loss continues and I'm now 86kg - reckon the target of 80kg by chrimbo is still on.

[fried]

Not much here either.

Monday - Thursday - Various shoulder stuff
Friday - Indoor session, bit of a cold, so take it easy.
Saturday - nada
Sunday - Can't be bothered to spend the day, traipsing around the Parisian transport system, so sack off going to Font, and instead have a big fried breakfast and sit on my arse all day. Not my fault, early mist and cooking roast for tea stop play.

Weight - 75.2kg

STG - I will find a parking near my flat this week.

[shark]

Thanks T2T

11st 8-9

Week 2 of 16 of programme

M. Day. Deadhangs (All4 and back2 combo). Eve. Felt rubbish but got it together and did some bouldering and surp[rised to do well on Oak AnCap circuit (90 moves). Elbow sore
T. Day. Deadhangs (Front2) wrist and bolton complex x2. Eve. Foundry with Ben and Poppy. Did better than last week on Wave. Clashed heads with Reeve. Ouch.
W. Day. Intro weights sess. Eve. Shed. Coclked up AeroCap by losing count. Nearly sacked it off buit did a 2nd set OK (200moves) Felt washed out.
T. Felt OK. Noon. Did well on systems board AnCap sess (60moves). PM Intro pullups sess. Eve. Shed. AeroCap. 3 sets (360moves) 
F.
S. AM 5K Park run with Poppy. Noon. Couple of hours boudering at Rubicon with boys. Under par. No progress on Kudos - bit too warm. Went to BBQ. Elbow felt better.
S. PM. Rubcion with Poppy. Better conditions and good beta from SteG. Progress on Kudos trying left way and was 2/3 inches short of shattered flake. Eve. Forced myself into Shed. Good links on 12 move project. AeroCap wnet well except lost count on 2nd set but about 200moves. Felt virtuous 

Few ups and downs but good week overall. Hard week this week then ease off following with a benchmarking ses with Tom.     

[tomtom]

Effort 3T.

I've had a good week.
M Nothing
T Nothing
W Nothing
Th Nothing
Fri Trip to the cliff. Had a really good session in the early afternoon - despite the occasional drizzle.. Despite not having climbed for two weeks felt strong (though zero stamina). Bumped into a few new folk and had a really good time
S Trip to swanky lakes Hotel with MrsTT. Great dinner, Pheasant followed by Blackcurrant Soufle (amazing)..
Su. Bartered a trawl around Windemere with MrsTT for some time in Kentmere in the afternoon.. Finally managed Badger Arete - which has been my S.Lakes nemesis for the last 2-3 years certainly a YYFY, I had to dig deep on the crimping beans which I'm not used to doing. Felt really good to do something new and on my limit.

Happy TT

[nai]

effort 5T

M-W had been feeling tired and tweaky for a few days so had a rest.
T - Plantation bouldering - good
f - felt good - core
S- suckered into taking daughter for swimming lessons AM and ended up doing 500m.  PM - Plantation bouldering - bad.
s - felt battered

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Rockcity new problems either I've got bird flu or they are on the stiff side grade wise.Manage a couple of v4s.
Wed. Course at Wakefield so call in at Leeds Wall on way to visit mother after finishing.Repeat stuff I've done before a v6 and 3  v5s.Tweaked back somewhere,could hardly get out of car when I got home.
Thu. Nothing other than back exs.
Fri. Osteo and back exs.
Sat. Weights and deadhanging. Reduce duration on hangs to 6 secs but increased weight to 10 lbs except on 35 degree slopers 6 secs with 10k.Did some one handed stuff. Walked 1hr 15 mins.
Sun. Walked 1 hr 30 mins with missus. Repeaters 2 sets of 4 grips.
Back still abit tweakey
   

[duncan]

A vague winter training plan is crystallising...

M - Aerobic Capacity - 10mins x 5; short run
T -
W - Anaerobic Capacity - 16 x V2/3 on the 2.5 mins.; short run
T - Aerobic Capacity - 10mins x 4;
F - short run
S - Bouldering - V2/3/4
S - Fartlek (aka playing with the lad).

Good plastic training week. Onwards and upwards.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Feeling beaten up: acutely from last weekend's boulder comp round, and cumulatively from a good autumn of climbing & training. Time for a couple of easy weeks before I decide what to do with my winter training programme.

M:
T: yoga
W: Wall, Thalkirchen, routes. Big mistake. Intention: "I'll go to the wall but take it easy". Reality: "I'll go to the wall and wreck myself (further) flailing on multiple redpoint projects". Decide easy week(s) will be complete week(s) off climbing.
T:
F:
S: yoga
S: alpine approach training: 30 mins step-ups w/rucksack

[Big Dave]

Bouldering at Wimberry on Saturday.

2 weights sessions at the gym during the week.

[Fultonius]

BAd WeEk!!!

Weight: 77.3kg (Up 1kg)

Mon: Nowt
Tuesday: Did entire Yellow circuit at TCA glasgow (36 probs up to 6C) bar the rank rockover that I can't do and thereore chose to discount from the circuit
Wed: Nowt
Thur: TCA endurance circuits - got the yellow Fr7a circuit fairly quickly, sacked in early due to noticable finger pullies.
Fri: Nowt.
Sat: Endurance DH bike race at inners. Came 17th, which I'm mega chuffed with as I've not been in a race in 5 years! 
Sunday: nice day out at Back Bowden - just flailing up the low E classics, showing the southerners what bad footwork is all about. 

Oh yeah, BAD WEEK!  Tuesday's session was a bad idea as I was "competing" with a mate to get the circuit done. Poor techninque (worse than usual  ) and not enough rest = over strained pullies.

Thursday sesh: Pullies noticable, particularly on friday morning.
Sunday: Pullies felt ok and got sucked into bouldering rather than low-e chuffing.

Today I have:

Left Hand
Ring A2 painful, no swelling
Ring A4 sharp pain, could be the C3, hard to tell.

Right Hand
Index A2, midly uncomfortable - nothing serious
Middle A2, all over squidy painful uncomfortable strainedness.

All probably fairly minor strains, caught them early enough so I think a week of full rest then a few weeks of takin'er easy should do'er!

Every damn year I forget to take it easy with moving back inside onto the plastic, every year I tweak some pullies, every year I fuck it up, again... 

[i_a_coops]

M - indoor bouldering followed by 15min aerocap. Feeling weak and shit, probably glycogen deficient from Cheddar the day before.
T - indoor boudlering, hauled my way up a p.e. V8 3rd day on - chuffed. 15 min aerocap.
W - Aerocap on routes, up 6b down 5 up 6a down 5+ up 6a+ etc.
T - rest. feel broken after 4 days on
F
S - Gogarth. got ferried  sacked it to Upper Tier, did Energy Crisis as a clip up after bailing on the flash. I am a bad person.
S - Tremadog, tried to do an HS with my housemate as a gentle introduction to multipitch trad. Accidentally climbed about 5 metres too far left at about E1..... fortunately I led the bold pitch! Fortunately he absolutely loved it... 

[shark]

probably glycogen deficient from Cheddar the day before.

  Loads of carbs in cheese...

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C/+ (8 done)
5 x 7A (5 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

M: BM: repeaters (pockets and slopers)x3, core & theraband
T: rest
W: BM: repeaters (pockets and slopers)x3, 3xDB complex & theraband
T: BM: max hangs - managed to hang the 45's for 10 seconds  , hadn't previously been able to hold them for more than a couple of seconds. Did this three times to make sure it wasn't a fluke. Also did theraband & core.
F: rest
S: bouldering at Rowtor - managed the 7A jump start to 'the line', press-ups & theraband
S: 11.5m run, 3xDB complex & theraband

Another good week, happy to have completed my aim of 5 7A's. Really keen to get a 7A+ now before xmas.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Still suffering sleep deprivation, training's not going to plan yet....

M: Nowt
T: Boulder Laps @ The works -  10 problems up to 6B with no rest repeated 5 times... Sweaty!
W: AnCap on my board - Just setting up 15 move circuits really. Got one that took a good while to nail that will suffice for a few weeks.
T: Bouldering @ Stanage Aparant North - Good little circuit up to 6c+, Piss poor attempt at fingerboarding.
F: REST
S: Boulder @ Burbage with kids - I was shit!
S: Bemoan being shit, piss poor attempt at fingerboarding while cooking dinner.

So bloody tired... Not functioning well on 2 x 2-3 hr sleep stints... Still plugging away though but am thinking I'll just do what I can for the next couple of weeks until things settle down and not get too hung up on training. Frustrating though!

This week: Try and do all the stuff I've set myself, fail, beat myself up about it, eat cake, think about throwing it back up again - but dont, try and sleep, look at the holds on my board, try and pull on them, go to the works - moan about the amount of people, go to the pub.......    

[i_a_coops]

probably glycogen deficient from Cheddar the day before.

Loads of carbs in cheese...

[i_a_coops]

W. Day. Intro weights sess. Eve. Shed. Coclked up AeroCap by losing count. Nearly sacked it off buit did a 2nd set OK (200moves) Felt washed out.
T. Felt OK. Noon. Did well on systems board AnCap sess (60moves). PM Intro pullups sess. Eve. Shed. AeroCap. 3 sets (360moves)

Quick question: I've just started doing aerocap sessions, and have just been hanging on for a set period of time while trying to maintain a fairly constant level of light pump, so shaking out on jugs when it gets too much, and doing some harder moves when i start feeling too recovered. Just noticed you seem count the moves rather than the time. Is this actually much less scientific than doing a set number of moves? Just wondering if you think that move counting has any advantages. (also i reckon I would certainly lose count all the time!)

[shark]

Quick question: I've just started doing aerocap sessions, and have just been hanging on for a set period of time while trying to maintain a fairly constant level of light pump, so shaking out on jugs when it gets too much, and doing some harder moves when i start feeling too recovered. Just noticed you seem count the moves rather than the time. Is this actually much less scientific than doing a set number of moves? Just wondering if you think that move counting has any advantages. (also i reckon I would certainly lose count all the time!)

I dont think it matters too much except if you start moving too quickly on a circuit you have wired in which case it makes sense to consciously slow down by for example counting to 2 or 3 on each hold. Binneys examples are all based on move numbers in turn based on an average move taking 3 secs (IIRC) to complete.

With AeroCap I find chunking better than continuous climbing to get a high enough intensity which still avoids overcooking into pumpedness. There are diffirent ways to do it but 20:10's* works perfectly on my 20move circuit.

Also I would suggest that it is better to do climbing that is at the same level of intensity rather than undulating intensity unless you are specifically aiming to train certain type of "on-route" recovery.

The other ideal thing to do is a circuit or route to start a set that is more like max onsight level at the start of the set. Something I keep forgeting to do 

*20moves+20 secs rest+10moves+10secs rest x 4 = 120moves for a set. 10mins rest between sets.