[jwi]

Agree, a bit less than 50 kg for an 80 kg man. Nevertheless : how many can add 36 kg to a three finger deadhang on the lower pocket of a metolius rock ring, regardless of body weight? Not many I'd wager

[Oldmanmatt]

they's need a proportionately deeper rung to accommodate (probably) longer fingers.

Substitute "hold" for "rung" and you've summed up pretty much all of climbing, save the reach issue.


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[Nibile]

Agree, a bit less than 50 kg for an 80 kg man. Nevertheless : how many can add 36 kg to a three finger deadhang on the lower pocket of a metolius rock ring, regardless of body weight? Not many I'd wager

Exactly. Even 28 is a lot.

[jwi]

they's need a proportionately deeper rung to accommodate (probably) longer fingers.

Substitute "hold" for "rung" and you've summed up pretty much all of climbing, save the reach issue.


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More deadhanging, less whining. Height is not an explanatory variable for performance neither in lead nor in bouldering world cups.

[abarro81]

Even 0 is a lot.

[a dense loner]

Too right!

As an aside Dai's hands are fucking massive. They belong on a 6ft 4 Navvie!

[Nibile]

Even 0 is a lot.

Anyway, this comes in handy. It's been ages since the last time I trained front3 dragged. For openhanding I've mostly trained monos, so now it's time to see how these gains translate to front3 open.
When I stopped I could hang the smaller three fingers slot of the BM with 10 kg, will check things out in a few days.

Oh, and height is not a variable in comps because routes are set accordingly. Rock is often different. This will be my only post on this matter.

[jwi]

I love that story about how Dai Koyamada started climbing after having seen a climbing magazine. He didn't know any climbers on Kyushu (the southernmost island), but saw a climbing wall in the magazine and figured he could build one himself in the garage. Having no sense of how big holds should be on an overhanging wall, he build a wall with very small holds, and it took him months to get to the top.

After half a year or so he met some other climber who took him out. They were blown away by the high-school students strength. A while later someone convinced him that he should enter the national championships, so he traveled to Tokyo where he got beaten by Hirayama. He never went back to Kyushu but stayed in the climbing gym, sleeping on their mattresses.

This might all be apocryphal, since I cannot remember where I read it. Rock & Snow maybe? In which case it'll be hard for me to verify.

[Nibile]

Climbing lives on apocryphal anecdotes and late night tell tales. It's its beauty. Truth is boring.

[mctrials23]

So by all your logic a 300kg man of pure muscle would have to add 150kg to impress you as much as a tiny man adding 36kg? It doesn't scale. All the connective tissues, tendons, ligaments etc do not scale with weight. It is more impressive to be able to do what Dai did the heavier you are. I'm not saying that whats hes done isn't cool but I wouldn't class it as a legendary feat of strength.

[Pako]

So by all your logic a 300kg man of pure muscle would have to add 150kg to impress you as much as a tiny man adding 36kg? It doesn't scale. All the connective tissues, tendons, ligaments etc do not scale with weight. It is more impressive to be able to do what Dai did the heavier you are. I'm not saying that whats hes done isn't cool but I wouldn't class it as a legendary feat of strength.

I would because I have never heard of someone one arm hanging a 1 pad edge with 1 fingers with an extra 36 kgs.

[rosmat]

I'm not saying that whats hes done isn't cool but I wouldn't class it as a legendary feat of strength.

You don't think hanging a one pad edge with over 150+% body weight is an impressive feat of strength?

Put down the pipe.

[Fiend]

Pffft, it IS about maximal weight. Dai is basically weak, but very light. A V15 PaulB as it were. Being skinny is lucky but not that impressive, I'd be more interested in marks deadheanging with that anvil attached to his baws (is that an actual event?).

P.S. Dai is a legend, I do hugely respect his bouldering. So there.

[User deactivated]

How big is that edge compared to something on the bm2000?
Bottom row middle hold or worse?


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[jwi]

So I guess some people are not impressed at all by this

[mctrials23]

All of these things are impressive. I'm just not as amazed by this as the guy who was doing the one arm beastmaker stuff where he was jumping between holds one armed. The amount of force generated by that must be equivalent to what Dai did.

On a side note, Dai is an amazing climber and seems like a top bloke from what people say and any time I have seen him on videos.

Isn't it the case in weight based events that the smaller the guy the higher % of their bodyweight they are moving.

[a dense loner]

Yep, the little shits!

[Ru]

All of these things are impressive. I'm just not as amazed by this as the guy who was doing the one arm beastmaker stuff where he was jumping between holds one armed. The amount of force generated by that must be equivalent to what Dai did.

Where is that? I've seen the two handed stuff on the Beastmaker with a single one armed move onto, and off, the jug, but not anyone jumping about on any of the smaller stuff. Do you have a link?

[petejh]

Pffft, it IS about maximal weight. Dai is basically weak, but very light. A V15 PaulB as it were. Being skinny is lucky but not that impressive, I'd be more interested in marks deadheanging with that anvil attached to his baws (is that an actual event?).

P.S. Dai is a legend, I do hugely respect his bouldering. So there.

Being skinny isn't just down to luck (body type) -some guidance is required from owner-operators of lean machines to avoid becoming skinny-fat.

Dai K - 'Legendary feats of strength&power-to-weight'

[dave]

So by all your logic a 300kg man of pure muscle would have to add 150kg to impress you as much as a tiny man adding 36kg? It doesn't scale. All the connective tissues, tendons, ligaments etc do not scale with weight. It is more impressive to be able to do what Dai did the heavier you are. I'm not saying that whats hes done isn't cool but I wouldn't class it as a legendary feat of strength.

What this guy said. An 80kg climber is not just a scaled up version of a 55kg climber. This is basic stuff.

[mctrials23]

Where is that? I've seen the two handed stuff on the Beastmaker with a single one armed move onto, and off, the jug, but not anyone jumping about on any of the smaller stuff. Do you have a link?

Ill try and find it. Its been posted a few times on here before.

[mark s]

the scaling up of weight lifted to weight of lifter just does not work

when i was climbing lots i could 1 arm pull up, i am now far stronger than i was then but could not do a 1 armer if my life depended on it.
the lighter you are the easier it is to have a higher power to weight.

[mctrials23]

I felt like I was all alone there for a while so thanks for the backup guys 

There was a website that was popular back in the day for learning bodyweight gymnastics exercises and the owner trained a lot of young gymnasts. All of the examples used young boys doing the exercises and they were all twiglets. Barely a muscle on them but they could do all the things we would consider strength based movements. How? They weighed about 5 stone after an all you can eat buffet.

[erm, sam]

Ill try and find it. Its been posted a few times on here before.

On the Beastmaker facebook (a while back) there is stuff of Ronnie Jenkins doing dynamic front levers between BM holds and other feats.Don't know if they are on the jugs though.

[Rocksteady]

So by all your logic a 300kg man of pure muscle would have to add 150kg to impress you as much as a tiny man adding 36kg? It doesn't scale. All the connective tissues, tendons, ligaments etc do not scale with weight. It is more impressive to be able to do what Dai did the heavier you are. I'm not saying that whats hes done isn't cool but I wouldn't class it as a legendary feat of strength.

Sure, it's not completely linear. But if you take this to its logical conclusion, you'd have to be equally impressed by a 90kg guy one arm hanging the same rung as Dai hanging it with 36kg added to his bodyweight? For me the latter is way more impressive than the former, and reflects the strength of a world-class boulderer rather than someone who is just strong?