Interesting experience trying to work ROA. I'm not used to this bouldering with a rope on business and can't get my head around having to pull this hard on routes. Also, I run out of gas very quickly when working harder moves. Training advice? (mainly "do more red-pointing" I suspect)
Quote from: duncan on November 14, 2011, 09:46:56 amInteresting experience trying to work ROA. I'm not used to this bouldering with a rope on business and can't get my head around having to pull this hard on routes. Also, I run out of gas very quickly when working harder moves. Training advice? (mainly "do more red-pointing" I suspect)REST. The most common mistake seems to be to start thrashing away and have ten goes in about 5 minutes at the crux. If the moves are really hard for you, a minute's rest per move achieved is a good guide. Short sessions on a route ie go up try, lower off, rather than always flogging yourself to get to the belay. This is dull, but helps a lot. Try and get on routes with partners of similar stature, so you can nick each other's sequences. And develop a really good redpoint memory, so that you are on the route for a minimum of time. NB, i am not very good at redpointing but these thigns have helped me a bit!
Mon.Leeds wall managed a v6 and v5 I couldn't do last visit.Tue. Rockcity circuit of 40 problems up to v5. Bike 2 hrs.Wed. Nothing.Thu. Rockcity repeated stuff and managed a v3 thats seems harder than the v5s.Fri. Nothing.Sat. Bike 2hrs 15 mins.Sun. Leeds wal on way to visit mother in hospital.Repeated the stuff I've done before.Did a pink v5 that I'd used an orange foothold on.
S - Cheddar, got back on Draggin, found a better sequence, did it, then did a slightly daft linkup of it into Hell Bent. Meant you had to keep concentrating for a little longer.Psyched to get another 7c+ done in reasonable time, hoping to find an 8a I like the look of soon.
Quote from: TobyD on November 14, 2011, 12:40:09 pmQuote from: duncan on November 14, 2011, 09:46:56 amInteresting experience trying to work ROA. I'm not used to this bouldering with a rope on business and can't get my head around having to pull this hard on routes. Also, I run out of gas very quickly when working harder moves. Training advice? (mainly "do more red-pointing" I suspect)REST. The most common mistake seems to be to start thrashing away and have ten goes in about 5 minutes at the crux. If the moves are really hard for you, a minute's rest per move achieved is a good guide. Short sessions on a route ie go up try, lower off, rather than always flogging yourself to get to the belay. This is dull, but helps a lot. Try and get on routes with partners of similar stature, so you can nick each other's sequences. And develop a really good redpoint memory, so that you are on the route for a minimum of time. NB, i am not very good at redpointing but these thigns have helped me a bit!Bouldering techniques help. Be sure to warm up and be recruited for hard moves. Stick clipping helps as a warm-up and to assist in applying your efforts and energies efficiently and avoid the distractions of lobbing. Also clip in after goes to give your rope rest which tends to reduce the temptations of frenzied dogging. I tend to use a the stopwatch function on my watch to give myself 2 minutes between goes. Write down the moves and after put them on a word document. If you are hazy on a foot or hand move chances are you havent worked that move thoroughly enough. Once written down use it as an aid to mentally rehearse the sequence which has neuro-muscular benefits.
From extensive and bitter personal experience: never try to work a route with Mr Trad holding your rope, especially if - and this is usually a given - he has already efficiently onsighted it. His boredom and contempt will ebb your spirit until you lower off and look for something at a grade doable without fuss.
If you are who I think you are (green T shirt?) you were looking very solid. 8a should be well within your capability.
The observant will have noticed that putting these ideas into practice could be tricky if the below has any truth. I couldn't possibly comment.Quote from: thesiger on November 15, 2011, 11:11:49 amFrom extensive and bitter personal experience: never try to work a route with Mr Trad holding your rope, especially if - and this is usually a given - he has already efficiently onsighted it. His boredom and contempt will ebb your spirit until you lower off and look for something at a grade doable without fuss.
Quote from: webbo on November 15, 2011, 01:48:56 pmMon.Leeds wall managed a v6 and v5 I couldn't do last visit.Tue. Rockcity circuit of 40 problems up to v5. Bike 2 hrs.Wed. Nothing.Thu. Rockcity repeated stuff and managed a v3 thats seems harder than the v5s.Fri. Nothing.Sat. Bike 2hrs 15 mins.Sun. Leeds wal on way to visit mother in hospital.Repeated the stuff I've done before.Did a pink v5 that I'd used an orange foothold on.
