[AJM]

I suspect the answer is "not really", but bear with me...

Have been having a bit of a think about the goals for next year, and have hit something of a timing issue.....

- April or thereabouts I've got a trip to the Tarn/Boffi/Jonte area planned. The aim would be to spend almost the whole time onsighting/flashing things or doing fast redpoints (both of things I've fallen off on os/flash and of short projects, a day ish say).
- May and June however is open season on Cheddar South Slope, which is my usual evening venue and where I do most of my projecting. After June it closes for 2 months over the summer.

So I've basically got a desire to be fit for 35m onsights in the sort of 7a-b region, and then a few weeks afterwards be trying 15-20m power endurance projects with the aim of getting a 7c+.....

Current thought is that I'll either have to prioritise one or the other. Obviously the fitness from the Tarn would be nice to apply to a project, and project length p-e would be handy for burning through cruxes in the Tarn, so it wouldnt all be a waste.  But there's a compromise in there somewhere, isn't there?

Or is there something I've not considered, short of either spending more time redpointing more or generally getting on slightly shorter routes in the Tarn, or picking a longer project at Cheddar...? And would people reckon that one is more transferable than the other - will making the winter's primary focus short route p-e help better in the Tarn than focusing mainly on long stamina will benefit down at Cheddar...?

Any advice welcomed... My training is usually a bit haphazard so any structure is probably better than nothing, but it'd be good to get off on the right track!

Cheers,

Andy

[yorkshireman]

not that im particularly big on training principle but i would have thought that if you do 2 plenty of power endurance training then your general endurance will get better as a side effect so i personally would(if you have time) do 3 sessions a week with a the age old power session,power endurence session and stamina session probably being good enough.either that or a couple of PE sessions and one day doing local endurance.may also be an idea to google it as there's a fair few free eric horst articles on line that will probably cover it.good luck with the projects

[Stu Littlefair]

I don't reckon your goals are as different as you think. It's a simple way of looking at it, but all climbing involves strength, endurance and recovery in different amounts.

For Cheddar you obviously need strength and endurance, but recovery is more important than you think, since it affects how much you get back in the brief time you take your hand off during a move.

Similarly, the climbing in tarn requires plenty of strength and endurance.

If you think about it, apparently different styles of climbing can't make too disparate demands on the body, since the best climbers have always been able to excel on all lengths of routes, from Jerry to Sharma to Ondra.

Practically speaking a standard periodised plan like the one on Gresh's site will do you fine. I'd emphasise your weakness, be it endurance or strength, rather than worry too much about the style of your goals.

[AJM]

I don't reckon your goals are as different as you think. It's a simple way of looking at it, but all climbing involves strength, endurance and recovery in different amounts.

...

I'd emphasise your weakness, be it endurance or strength, rather than worry too much about the style of your goals.

I guess that makes a fair bit of sense. Seems so simple when it's said like that 

Overall I reckon that I probably lack more strength than I do endurance, so maybe it's just all about constructing a slightly more strength weighted plan and taking it from there... Aim it around the dates I go to the Tarn and then hopefully the extra endurance and recovery ability I'll get on holiday will only do good things for project season...

Thanks...

Andy

[petejh]

Bear in mind too that power endurance comes very quickly once you start training it whereas strength takes longer to increase. So you could spend winter focussing your weekly sessions on improving strength (which you say is your weakness anyway) whilst keeping the endurance/PE ticking over with one sesh of that per week, or a combined stregth/endurance sesh if you lack time for seperate sessions. Then 4 - 6 weeks before your trip ditch the strength sessions, hammer the longer burn PE and you'll be crushing on the OS. Another 4 week block of shorter intense PE training shouild see you good for UK sport projs.