[shark]

Weight 11.5-8

M.  Rest 
T.   Rest 
W. Cracked. Did an assisted 1 arm session and aggravated elbow strain
T.  Did various deadhangs through day. Elbow still sore
F. PM. Physio. Confirmed elbow not too bad but to lay off 1 arm stuff for a while and learn to engage right lat more. Eve. Drive to Lakes and drink loads of wine when got there.
S. Beautiful day. Did a multi-pitch VS with boys. Ben got the fear.
S. Another beautiful day. Saw a red squireel up close. Bouldered at Bowderstone for first time. Ripped a flapper. Keen to go back.

Interesting chat with Steve Hodgson at Hallamshire Physio about efficiency of movement, range of movement and using full kinetic chain. Attempted to sort out training plan which I've blogged about. Getting heavier but syke has returned.

[rich d]

Ah well here we go. LTG 7a, MTG 6c STG train 4 nights this week and climb 3 6as and 1 6b.
Weight 87kg
Mon pressups and core
Tues pressups and core
Wed nothing work
Thurs nothing work
Fri drinks and karoke in notts
Sat bonfire/beer etc
Sun recover from beer etc
Not drinking during the week and cutting lunches has seen weight drop under 90kg need another 7kg drop though.

[fried]

Monday - 95.2 where I never climb well, backed off some slippery slab, then fell off, bashed my ankles in and hobbled back to the car.

Tuesday - Indoor session + weights + shoulder/ elbow stuff (winter is coming and the aches are starting)

Wednesday - Saturday - Shoulder/ elbow stuff
Sunday - Indoor, trying competion circuit, do the first 8 problems, then there are just too many people, so I do more weights.

Winter diet of grease and potatos kicks in and I manage to put on a kilo. Weight 76.2kg

STG - Get rid of my niggly elbow problems.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage
LTG: Font 7b

M: Depot session eve, bit listless but climbed OK
T: Nowt, travelled down to London
W: In LDN all day, train home and then out for dinner on return to LDS
T: Depot session eve, really good on both a social and climbing front. Knocked off a few outstanding purples (V4 - V5 apparently!).
F: Nowt, travellled back to LDN, beers and a late night
S: Hangover and a trip to The Natural History Museum
S: Chilled out day, Sunday roast and a glass of red

[TobyD]

M long juggy circuits, barely out of the drizzle.
T Ansteys, couple of laps on Empire and a few goes at La Creme
Wbouldering: short session on 8-10 move problems, and a few longer links
T Bouldering few 5 move problems, and long juggy circuits
F 35 minute run
S Portland, OSighted a bunch of up to 7a+ ish stuff, and had a couple of goes on the Breathing Method. 6b (route) to a V8ish problem, to a 6b route. Not that psyched.
S Portland Osighting (or nearly...) up to 7b, but tweaked finger in nasty cold weather.

conclusion; rein in on the yarding on nasty shiny crimps in cold weather.

[nai]

stg - still building fitness
mtg - 7C
ltgs - 8a & E4 next summer

M - foot on laddering/campussing, 5.5 reps of 1-1-3-5-5-3-1-1, 3x4 sets, 1min rest, 5 mins rest. Failed penultimate move final set. More boxed than I can remember ever being.
t
W max hangs, lockoffs, press ups, core.
T - 900m swim
F - max hangs, lockoffs, press ups.
S - AM - 300 m swim in 50m bursts while daughter had lesson.  Eve approx 1.5hrs unplanned sleepy kiddy portage during fireworks inc. 2km walk home.
s  - back in pieces, arms like jelly.

[i_a_coops]

M - Almscliff, spent all day on the keel. Eventually did it, YYFY! Twisted bad ankle
T - barely able to walk, unable to straighten left arm. arse.
W-F - stretching, hot baths.
S - bouldering on the Orme. did left wall traverse and a couple of things on Pill Box,felt totally destroyed
S - Tremadog. did the plum and the weaver, both mega.

Plan to start training again this week as the forecast looks pants.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C/+ (8 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B


M: 5m run, core & theraband
T: BM: max hangs, press-ups & theraband
W: 5m run
T: BM max hangs
F: theraband & rest
S: Bouldering at Stoney, should have done Tom's roof but the slot jug was getting a bit damp and I ran out of time as the girlfriend was waiting below!
S: Bouldering at the Roaches, beautiful day. Managed a 6C+ and also went for a 4m fell run.

Feeling quite sore all-over today so it must have been a decent week!

[Fultonius]

Been a bit "off the UKB PC Wagon" since my trip to El Chorro, so I can sum it up as rest and recuperation!

STG: 1. Make it to October in 1 peice, no injuries and no knee probelms. Done! Although tweaked my knee a bit during the trip...
         2. F7b Onsight in El Chorro and F7c quick redpoint. Done!

LTG: Find some new F8a projects and start working them. Complete one by April. E5 Onsight by next June.
VLTG: Fr8a+ Redpoint, 5+ Fr8a repoints. Boulder 7C/+

Wt:76kg. Was <76kg at the trip, but I've been  and  since then.

So, I suppose I better think up some new short term goals!

Mon: Nowt
Tues: TCA-G Sesh. Lots of volume, fun, just puntering about.
Wed: Nowt. DOMS in lats, triceps and forearms.
Thurs: Nowt:
Friday:TCA Sesh, just ticking problems.
Saturday: Trad at Pass of Ballater. Lovely day in the sun - climbing in T-shirts for a bit!!  Felt a wee bit rusty, but got an E1/E2 done, seconded an Anger and Lust (E2) which felt fine and then tried Lech Gates which is top end E3 (E4 in UKC database, but E3 in both guides??) Climbed it fairly well, but too slowly. Trad head was good, got pumped out my tree and had 4 attempts at topping out, reversing to a bad horizontal finger crack which I contrived a half rest in by getting my fingers wedged and just hanging of my bones  Final attempt got both hands on the finishing holds and hung there, fingers opening and nothing left to grovel over the top. Nope. 4m whipper for me.......... Oh well, saved by a BD 0.3 camalot once again.
Sunday: Aborted hillwalk due to girlfriend enthusiasm issues...went mountainbiking on my own...hmmm.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Rockcity managed another v5 in a couple of goes.Spent along time working a v4 on which I couldn't reach the finishing hold from the footholds.
Wed.Peak Sheep pen did Roofless people. went to secret garden Quite alot of flailing and not alot of topping out.
Thu. Weights and deadhanging.Did a P/B for this decade on Benchpress 67.5 kg still along way to equal life time P/B of 200lb.Also did 3 sets of 8secs with 8lb on deadhanging.
Fri. Nothing
Sat. Leeds wall felt a bit hungover.Did 3v5s and a v6
Sun. bike 2 hrs Weights dumbell workout

[Muenchener]

STG:  Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight.
         Score better in next boulder comp round on Saturday than in the previous one
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Long weekend and continued good autumn weather

M: Frankenjura easy routes with Frau M, including teaching her to place gear on trad routes. Was less scary than I expected.
T: Bouldering, Sudelfeld. Had planned to do some sport multipitch in the Alps, but my prospective partner was injured so I thought I'd check out one of southern Bavaria's premier bouldering spots instead. Now I know why southern Bavaria isn't known as a bouldering destination: scattered, difficult to find blocks of crumbling limestone in a brambly jungle. Pulling the finishing jug off the first problem set the tone for the afternoon. Still, pleasant to be outside in the autumn sun.
W: yoga
T: Boulderwelt: session focused on what I was weak on in the last comp round: burly stuff on big round slopy volumes.
F: bike to work 29km
S:
S: yoga

[tomtom]

Stg 7C

The psyche is back! God knows why but I'm loving my climbing again...

M:
T:
W: early morning cliff trip. Too misty had to wait for the clag to part in the cafe. Rock felt great, movement felt smooth. Rpt underhand crux, and rehearsed Keel moves, nothing new ticked but feeling good...
T:
F: Logport wall. Great set of problems there at the moment. Good cheeky lunchtime session
S:
Su: all day at Slipstones with a bunch of gents from Hull & York. Nothing repeated, all very warm but a good work out. watched Willackers (hello!) playing on Cypher.. Impressive...

[andy_e]

Watching willackers playing is always fun.

[Fultonius]

watched Willackers (hello!) playing on Cypher.. Impressive...

Was angry Will  or happy Will    out to play?!?!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: 7B+, F7c+, F8a

M: Not much climbing - loads of DIY.
T: Stanage - Went up with a mate who was keen to do Green Traverse, tried the full version a bit then decided to try and repeat it but fell off the end about 10 times WTF
W: D.I.Bloody Y.
T: As above.
F: Works - Purples and session on well brown circuit.
S: Jessop ward - No training but new family addition arrives kicking and screaming, a 7.10 lb baby girl YYFY!
S: Family shizzle.

Not a great week for training but well made up with new addition.. Now got one of each so no need to do that again

This week: Cellar and try and get a bit of bouldering in between nappy changes and ting...... Planning winter training right now based on last years plan, might pick your brains Simon....

:D

[shark]

S: Jessop ward - No training but new family addition arrives kicking and screaming, a 7.10 lb baby girl YYFY!

Now got one of each so no need to do that again

Congratulations.    Name ?

Planning winter training right now based on last years plan, might pick your brains Simon....

Won't take long ! Are you allowed out for an afternoon's bouldering this weekend? Bring the spreadsheet - we could discuss it over a pint.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Congratulations.    Name ?

Won't take long ! Are you allowed out for an afternoon's bouldering this weekend? Bring the spreadsheet - we could discuss it over a pint.

Cheers Simon...

Her name's Emily Mary Eagles.....

Yea should be cool to get out on Sunday if that's good for you?

:D

[shark]

Her name's Emily Mary Eagles.....

Yea should be cool to get out on Sunday if that's good for you?

:D

Very middle class - Michael MacIntyre would approve. I was expecticing "Solstice" or "Irie" or similar. 

The reggae name generator gives her new name as "Lady Dread" 

I'll probably go out both afternoons - text me Saturday eve - I'll go wherever you fancy in the Peak

[tomtom]

watched Willackers (hello!) playing on Cypher.. Impressive...

Was angry Will  or happy Will    out to play?!?!

I think both Wills were out, sometimes in close succession

[205Chris]

M - Almscliff, spent all day on the keel. Eventually did it, YYFY! Twisted bad ankle

Nice one. Sounds like you had a similar epic time on it to me. I latched the pocket early on the session but couldn't mantle it out. About 4 hours and a 1000 gos later I finally got it done.

Forest report:

S: Isatis. Warmed up and got on El Poussif. Why I chose a problem that involves a bunched LF / LH move on the first day I have no idea but it finally went down. Did a few other things and looked at Surprise on the way out. Discovered it was nails.
M: 95.2 - Did Retour aux sources and then came very close to L'Ange Naif with the heel method but no tick.
T: Warmed up at Rocher Canon. It rained. Went home.
W: Looked damp but went to Apremont. Did Onde de Choc 3rd go after a couple of false starts then went round to do Hyperplomb. Tried Medaille en chocolat but it was too poffed / polished / warm / I'm too crap / insert excuse here.
T: More rain. Wandered up to cuvier rempart and amazingly Bleau's Art was dry so played on that but didn't tick it.
F: Back to cuvier. Wasn't bothered about a last day attempt on Bleau's Art so did 38/42 problems on the Red circuit. Best part of it was not having to be shown the beta by any locals with their trousers pulled up too high.
S: Travel Back
S: Early raid on cratcliffe & clifftop boulder. Ticked T-Crack and Boing Boy. Looks like I should probably have been trying harder in Font.........

Post Font pysche low. Only managed a handful of days on grit this season and it's not looking good to get out today either........