[Nibile]

ok, I know this can sound silly, but...
I have found a new possible start to a well established hard 8a problem. the new starts adds roughly 8 moves, to the 5 moves 8a.
I still haven't managed to even do the first moves in isolation, so linking them into the 8a will be hard. there is a good jug as the start of the 8a, but you are in a roof, so not really a rest.
so the question: how do the grades of the start + problem add up? when do the difficulty of the added moves become relevant?
for instance: 7a + 8a = still 8a?
7b + 8a = ?
7c + 8a = ?
8a + 8a = ? 
ta.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

[Wipey Why]

 

What he said

[RASTATA]

mmm i think 7a + 8a = 15 so V15 which is as we all know 8C

therfore 8a + 8a = 16 = V16 = 8C+

 

[Nibile]

Jasper, I don't get it, sorry.
me italiano no capish.

Rasta, thanks.

other ideas? is there already some established chart? maybe some link-ups or longer problems in the Cave?

[slackline]

How long is a piece of string?

Generally a piece of string can be as long as you want it to be, so there is no clear answer, as is the case with adding grades up.

[Richie Crouch]

Tricky to say Lore. I think you have to take a lot in to account of how hard it feels on the link and if you have any problems to comapre it to length wise?

A few cave examples could be:

Pilgrim - 6C+ + 7C/+ + 7C = 8A+
In Hell - 7C+ + 7C = 8A+
Greenheart - 7C + 7C + 7B = 8A+
Incredible Bulk - 7C+ + 8A + 7A = 8B
Directors - 7C + 7C + 8A = 8B

All of which are subjective guesses/estimates at each part! It's a question of endurance!

[Paul B]

Haven't we tried applying this MATHS business to grades before and failed? Its not exactly SCIENCE.

[RASTATA]

ok seriously
i think it massively depends on many factors and can't really think of any example besides UG story in Magic wood... there you have 8A/A+ into a jug (but i doubt that you can rest there) into 7C+/8A which gets 8B+

[Nibile]

ok, some interesting info here.
I still have to climb the first part, to be honest I still haven't managed all the moves. I don't know, it could be Font 7b/+ into Font 8a/+.

[Jaspersharpe]

Jasper, I don't get it, sorry.
me italiano no capish.

Sorry Nibs. Did think after I'd posted that that might be a tad obscure even though I know your English is molto buono (unlike my Italian).

What slackers said.

[Nibile]

yo don't worry, I should thank you, I learnt something new!!!

[Nibile]

sorry to resurrect this thread but Dobbin's crushage of "Trigger Cut" made me surf through a few Cave vids and I also watched "Director's Cut" 8b.
I don't have a big experience of The Cave, although I do have a very happy experience, so: to me it seems that "Director's" starts from "Lou Ferrino" 7c+, then cuts out to do "TC", 8a. is this right?
so, and again I am sorry to be so pedantic and grade chasing: what's the grade of the first part before having to do "TC"?

I know the only way to be sure would be get there and try them, but for the moment it's not possible, so I'm asking because my project here is very similar: roof, crimps, body tension, many moves, and I wonder if it could be 8b.
thanks again and sorry again.

[Richie Crouch]

I reckon it feels like a hard 8A to get to the start holds of TC from LF start Lore. Sapping on the core getting from the ramp to the start holds and getting your feet across.

[Nibile]

thanks Rich!

[account_inactive]

Interesting you bring this up Niblog.  I was asking Doyle which was the official finish to Greenheart and whether is was OK to do Lip Service.  LS gets 7b in the guide (but is probably a touch easier than the other 7a+'s).  He remarked that it wouldn't matter as a 7a+ or 7b wouldn't change the grade which begs the questions 'how hard do the moves need to be to hit 8b etc' (although I would have thought at least 7c)

[Nibile]

yes of course the harder the problem the harder the added moves need to be to bump up the grade.
respect my project, the normal line is hard 8a/easy 8a+. compared to other 8a's I've done or tried around and abroad, definitely 8a+. anyway...
as usual my problem is the lack of reference, because not many people find the time to repeat my other problems, so I don't know how to judge difficulty from the feelings I get from the climbing.
there are a few problems of similar style here, that had repetitions, and got confirmed at 7b+. I have added sit starts to them, and I usually repeat them first try, or even lap them.
here, I have climbed the added moves just twice in five sessions. the last two moves to the left to get the rail are truly hard for me, and sometimes I've fallen also in the lower moves.
now I can also compare it to a few problems I've done or tried while in UK, so maybe I have a better reference. I don't know, sometimes I think it could be hard, then I think "if >insert name of climber< was here, he'd crush it to atoms".
briefly, I really am clueless. it's by far the hardest thing I've ever tried.
it would be nice for me to know how hard it is in reality.

[RASTATA]

just come across this blogpost about grades from P-Rob

http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/post/5226848077/my-2-cents