[tc]

You've read an article in which Haston states that Century Crack is 9a?

[Doylo]

not sure about the article thing but i read the 9a thing here:
http://alexekins.co.uk/the-hardest-offwidth-in-the-world/

[Stubbs]

Some years later, Stevie Haston (a climbing partner of Crusher's) started the odyssey that Pete and I hoped to complete. With his partner Laurence Gouault he started work on freeing the 120ft roof crack and at the same time coming up with the working project title of 'Century Crack.' After a number of days attempting this line over successive trips, he'd still not found success, but was kind enough to write about his endeavours in On The Edge Magazine. Stevie talked of abs of steel, dodgy cams in sandy rock and of course immense levels of difficulty. His estimation on grade at the time was 9a or harder...

From here http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64429  doesn't say which issue of OTE though.

[Doylo]

ah there you go, on the interweb

[Grubes]

not sure but it looks like the wideboyz have repeated century crack placing gear on lead .. (is this new news or have I missed some thing)

Here's a link to the new blog up http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html

[ian dunn]

Nice one boys, actions speak louder than words!!!! haha now shut up arm chair critics!! Oh you could have onsight soloed it well Tom and Pete have left you something to aspire too. Well done, see you when you get back.

[Jaspersharpe]

not sure but it looks like the wideboyz have repeated century crack placing gear on lead .. (is this new news or have I missed some thing)

Here's a link to the new blog up http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html

[Alex Ekins]

Yes they did. Pics here - http://alexekins.co.uk/the-wideboyz-return-to-century-crack/

[Grubes]

not sure but it looks like the wideboyz have repeated century crack placing gear on lead .. (is this new news or have I missed some thing)

Here's a link to the new blog up http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html

not quite but still an attempt at it sort of .. maybe

-edit- forgot the link http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2011/11/well-done-on-century-by-stevie-gozotan.html

[jimmykay]

Fucking yes. You boys are an inspiration!!! 

[Wood FT]

Shriker!

[metal arms]

Heroes 

[tomtom]

Dab! Back around...



Great work gents..

[SA Chris]

Century Crack is no harder placing gear on lead, than it was having it pre-placed.

Point proved. Well done wideboyz.

[Rocksteady]

I love that they've done 95% of their ticklist with 2 weeks to go (opposite of any trip I've been on), and have enough time to go back and shut down the armchair criticism of their ascent of Century Crack. Just seeing the pictures of the positions they get into on these offwidths makes it apparent how ridiculously hard these climbs must be.
 
Very impressive indeed.

[Nibile]

Stevie Haston's blog about Century Crack ascent placing gear on lead, reminded me about a small episode in Dostoevskij "Idiot".
during a party they play a game in which each one has to tell a bad action he's done. one of the characters tells a story that resembles a bad action, which finally serves a higher moral aim, and so in reality tells a very righteous action instead of a bad one.
his blog post gave me the impression that he dismisses the ascent as due to a "light rack" while literally praising the guys.
has anyone else had the same impression, or am I a paranoid who sees menaces and evil everywhere?

[SA Chris]

To continue the literal slant, I think you may be tilting at windmills.

I read it as saying light rack indeed, only being 8 cams?

[Richie Crouch]

I think Haston comes across as a bit of a bell end.

[Nibile]

well, talking about "light rack" after various blogs about "8 kg heavy racks", to me sounds as "you've done the route because you chose to carry less cams than I did".
but again, I see evil everywhere as of late. especially in myself.

[tomtom]

I think Haston comes across as a bit of a bell end.

I wouldn't disagree with you....

[Paul B]

Yeah, one of the blog entries seems somewhat hypocritical too. (please don't break my legs if you're reading this, they break by themselves easily enough).

[SA Chris]

well, talking about "light rack" after various blogs about "8 kg heavy racks", to me sounds as "you've done the route because you chose to carry less cams than I did".
but again, I see evil everywhere as of late. especially in myself.

Well to be fair, they are carrying the weight of a pair of massive cojones instead of a massive rack.

[Fultonius]

How the hell do they sit down, with balls THAT BIG?!

[butters]

well, talking about "light rack" after various blogs about "8 kg heavy racks", to me sounds as "you've done the route because you chose to carry less cams than I did".

I think that is what is known as being damned with faint praise.

[Jaspersharpe]