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UKB Power Club Week 89 Mon 24th - Sun 30th (Read 5348 times)

shark

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UKB Power Club Week 89 Mon 24th - Sun 30th
October 30, 2011, 06:01:20 pm
M. Spartacus. Onsighted Lucifer an awesome 6c, Leonides old skool toe-numbing 7B and Gladiator overhanging thug fest 7b
T.  Grand Grotte. After warm-ups wandered to base of the awesome Priapos which I had decided to give a miss as it was so intimidating. Adrian Berry was gearing up and offered to put my clips. Not an opportunity you turn down! Managed to onsight it  ;D  Probably my hardest onsight to date, certainly the steepest!, and very different from the 7b+'s I would normally go for.
W. Panorama. Did Trella (7A) Joggle and Toggle extension to mailons (7b) Super Carpe Diem (7b) and Cigarello (7a)
Superb last day of 6 straight days of solid climbing. I love Kalymnos  :wub:
T. Travel
F. PM. Rubbish removal. Eve. Hot stones massage
S. AM. 5k Park Run with Poppy. PM Went to Tor. Rammed. Felt burnt out and demotivated  :'( Put the draws in TinOf for my mate then belayed and chatted.
S. Still suffering from Post Kalymnian depression. Lots of taxiing. Went for a jog with Pip around Higgar and watched Ted squeal on Bat out of Hell.

Weight OK despite eating like a horse since coming back. Going to take a week or two off from hard training/climbing until psyche returns.

fried

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Monday - nowt
Tuesday - indoor + some weights.
Wednesday - Friday - some shoulder stuff.
Saturday - Gorge aux chats - a bit damp/ then o.k ish/ then rain. Some blue stuff. Looked at Dallain, but too many people and I need a bit of peace. Far too much time stuck in traffic.
Sunday - Shoulder stuff.

Bank holiday tomorrow - back to the forest.

Weight 75.4kg ( winter's coming and I've been eating crap (good!))

tomtom

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Nothing....
Except trip to Burbizzle West on Friday.. 1 move progress on WSS... a minor YYFY of sorts in a month of climbing apathy..

Where is the psyche... :(

tommytwotone

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STG - Cliff tickage
LTG - Font 7b
 
M - Depot session after work, felt totally unpsyched and had nothing new to go at, sacked it early.
T - Out for beers and a few games of pool in the evening, left phone in taxi home - NNFN!!
W - Nowt
T - Depot session after work, total contrast as there was a new circuit, and bumped into one of my old muckers from Mile End
F - Plans for night out shelved as me and the missus were feeling tired so had an early one
S -Early start and off to Brimham - got back on Fantasy League, which shut me down all last winter, never looked like getting anywhere near it. 1st go - cocked up the sequence and realised I was all wrong. 2nd go - nearly did it but slapped in wrong place rocking round the arete. 3rd go - sent it! YYFY!! A major boost.
S - Brunch in Peak with the missus after a night out in Worksop(!), went for a walk round Burbizzle North. Went to Showroom to watch We Need To Talk About Kevin, then dinner at Zuegma.
 

nai

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M - trip to Froggatt Woods, couple more 6Cs, progress going the right way
t -
W - max hangs, lockoffs, pressups, bit of core
T - max hangs, lockoffs, pressups, bit more core
f
S - Plantation with Grubes and a cast of thousands.  Did quite a lot including a couple of things off my outstanding hitlist. 
s - 50 pullups, 100 pressups & 200 corey bits

Good week, fitness and pysche slowly starting to return.

i_a_coops

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M
T - Indoor bouldering
W
T - Indoor bouldering, long unstructured session. Feel like I'm back to climbing at least V7ish indoors I think.
F
S - Curbar. Swam up Hercules, oh my fucking god. Started sleeting on me while I was above my gear on an E2, fell off, bruised entire body. Pissed the moves on Gorilla Warfare but the top was too wet and my back was too sore to link.
S - Raven Tor. Did the moves on Body Machine from ground, what an amazing route. Sadly feeling brutalised from offwidthing and falling off on Saturday, didn't even attempt to RP.

Would like to publicly mention that my long term goals now include An In And Out Of Body Experience, and Right Eliminate.

tunaficiency

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M: family walk near trefriw 6 miles found a good looking quarry near the oldest church in wales
T: family walk
W: ruthin do the three new routes on butterfly 6a 6b 6c fall off 6c on first attempt
repeat green bean 6b + then have 2 redpoint burns on wee beastie ( which ive just found out is 7c ) get very close on second go. Then go and look at summertime blues
retro bolted e5 6b to see if theres any gear find a wire and thread placement lead up to break on bolts then power out.
T: rest
F: go to gorge and try lees new route fairtrade on top rope 7b+ / 7c  cant do all the moves feels tough but very good route( need more stamina )
S: small walk
S: walk in the rhinogs do a wet slab about v0 -  spot a host of golden off widths.
(on track for my goal of 6c to 7c in a year)

shark

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Tues: rest day. Watched/filmed Shark wander up Priapos. Very impressive though not sure the the low ratio of actual climbing : sitting on stalagtites will make for a riveting movie ...

Get editing - you've got a Kendal winner on your hands  :bounce:

chris05

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Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (7 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

M: Bm: max hangs
T: bouldering at NCC
W: 5m run & theraband
T: BM: max hangs & core
F: 5m run
S: bouldering at Rowtor, RHS and Cratcliffe, managed a couple of new 6C's. Had a quick go on Blood Falls and think it could go in the not too distant future.
S: Checked out Forest rock (which was wet) and then did a small amount of bouldering at Beacon Hill (Glad we didn't pay to get in!)

A really good week, had hoped to get out to the peak again on Sunday but weather looked too dodgy. Great to be out on rock again.

duncan

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Missed last week for some reason.  Some decent plastic bouldering and a fine Sunday at the Roaches including Commander Energy, which felt like a distilled essence of grit and satisfyingly challenged most of my weaknesses (though I avoided the overhand by shuffling along the flake).

M - Work, work, work, work
T - Arch bouldering
W - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Short run and shoulder stability stuff
F - Work, work, work, work
S - Bouldering at Sussex Gardens playground with the lad. 
S - Eat, drink, family

Busy at work as my department's job is out to tender, everyone a bit tense and tired.  Not coincidentally, shoulder aches and finger pains rather insistent of attention.  STG is to get through the next few weeks maintaining strength and not get too fat and unfit.  Sometimes you just have to tread water for a bit. 



Duncan Disorderly

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Goals... Same as last week.

M: Boulder @ Burbage S - Fall off going for the break on the sheep about 10 times  :slap:
T: Works - Blacks and purples, do both halves of brown 7c "project", first time in same session.
W: Rest
T: Works - Brown, repeated Tuesdays highpoint and made it one move further on the link... Good session!
F: Chil
S: Works - Brown... Climbed log :shit: Did loads of purples instead. Trashed.
S: Short walk around burbage, thought about climbing, decided against it.

Not a bad week as I did a fair bit. Not really training as such at present, more just pottering about. Getting unusually psyched to do this brown circuit
but not really for much else, would have been good to do the sheep problem but not gonna lose sleep over it (conditions were a bit shit too  :-[).
Will hopefully find some psyche soon as sprog #2 should land this week or next so will need summat to take my mind off the shit, sick and sleep deprivation ;D

This week: Get out on grit and try and do brown.. Find some training psyche.

:D

Fiend

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Duncan, king of the BROWN  :shit: :tease: :smartass:

Muenchener

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STG:  Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: bike to work 25 km
T: Alpine approach training: step-ups w/rucksack 30 mins
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: mileage session, 12 routes most of them "long" by wall standards (17 metres)
T:
F: bike to work 25 km
S: yoga
S: Frankenjura. Mostly easy routes with Frau M, but also onsighted a 6a+. And 6a+ = UIAA VII-, so my first Frankenjura seventh grade onsight. yyfy.

webbo

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Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Rockcity managed to repeat what I'd before and do another v5.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Weights and deadhanging.
Fri. Rockcity short session just rpeated stuff.
Sat. Went Clemmits wet, ended up at Ravenswick quarry reasonable session not sure what I did though.
Sun. Weights and deadhanging.I was going to ride my bike but felt too knackered.

 

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