[tommytwotone]

Another week - and a monumental one for me as it included the much-awaited Grit Calling! Think as a result I've has a more productive one.

M - Depot session, bumbled about and made no progress on current outstanding problems
T - Board session but climbed crap as third day on
W - Ran for first time in about 6 months - 5 miles on lunch break, felt really good
T - Depot evening, OK session thought managed to fall foul of the new "shirt on centre" edict. Seems a very strange decision.
F - Nowt, Dad up for the weekend so had a few  and a meal
S - Nowt, wandered around Leeds
S - Walk around Roundhay park, Sunday lunch and then a couple of hours at Depot after Dad left. Decided to throw self at Beastmaker board which was demoralising and inspiring at the same time. Will stick with it.

[robertostallioni]

Depot evening, OK session thought managed to fall foul of the new "shirt on centre" edict.

Eh? What's Ocurrin'? Steve getting fat or something?

[nik at work]

Don't worry, there's no ban on gold lycra.

[i_a_coops]

M
T
W -  indoor bouldering 4x4s trying to replicate Pride Evan's Locker, then routes, then aerocap
T - 4x4s (a la Pride Evans), then aerocap
F
S - Got on Pride Evan's Locker. 1st RP - foot slipped at beginning of crux sequence. 2nd RP - fell off the top of House Burning Down. 3rd RP - false start (foot slipped out of foot lock before any hard climbing). 4th RP - made it through crux, slapped myself hard in the shakeout to psyche myself up a bit, fought my way to the top despite being boxed. YYFY! 1st 7c+ since I broke my foot.
S - Was going to do 10 laps of a 100m 6b+ for charity. The route in question was frikkin' soaking so after escaping from halfway up it, sacked it off and did 63 laps of a 6a+. Ended up on the wave AGAIN afterwards, flashed a totally shit 7a+ and repeated Raw Deal, man that route is fun.

Hoping with a bit more stamina training, a sustained (and soft) 8a might be possible this year. Going to try and ignore the calling of the grit and stick with suntrap sport crags for the moment!

[tomtom]

Depot evening, OK session thought managed to fall foul of the new "shirt on centre" edict.

Eh? What's Ocurrin'? Steve getting fat or something?

There's no rules on the bottom half, so you can still hang free...

[fried]

Last big week of work for a few weeks at least.

so..

Monday - Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Cold, misty start at Apremont, I rarely climb here and when I do I'm invariably lost and scared, today is to be no exception. I looked at science friction but by then my feet hurt and my hands were too dry. Went to Rocher fin in the afternoon and did some blue stuff.
Sunday - Shoulder stuff.

Weight 74.8kg

[tommytwotone]

Depot evening, OK session thought managed to fall foul of the new "shirt on centre" edict.

Eh? What's Ocurrin'? Steve getting fat or something?

There's no rules on the bottom half, so you can still hang free...

Exactly what it says - I was climbing sans shirt and got told by one of the guys who work there that they'd made a change and that "The Depot is now a 'shirt on' centre". Apparently this was as a result of some "complaints".

Probably not the right forum to discuss this but I think it's a weird decision - can't think who would complain about it other than someone who had no knowlege of what passes as "normal" in the climbing community.

[andy_e]

...of which the Depot is usually full of.

[tommytwotone]

That's as maybe Andi, but that's the way with most modern climbing centres nowadays innit doe?

From my memory of climbing at The Works for a few years I'd say that there was always a healthy contingent of beginners to offset the hard core of regulars, same with Mile End when I used to live in London.

Not sure what the root of the complaint about tops-off climbing was that caused The Depot to decide on this course of action, but I'd assume it'd have to be pretty serious to make them respond with "sorry, that's just normal behaviour in the climbing community".

[tomtom]

I'll start a new thread....

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (5 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder thera-band work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (update: knee is feeling good, but possible extensor tendinitis is now holding me back!).

M: bouldering at NCC
T: 5m run & core
W: BM max hangs, press-ups & theraband
T: bouldering at NCC
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: 4.5m run

Got some good training in with added weight for max hangs and probably my best session to date at the wall but was visiting friends and relatives at the weekend. Think I have all foreseeable weekends to climb now so the weather will probably be terrible!

[Big Dave]

M-
T-
W- weights at gym
T  -
F -
S - Burbage West / Bridge and Higgar Tor
S -

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: F7b+ in a session, F7c+, F8a, Font 7b+.  As the grit season is now open I'll be concentrating on the 7B+ for a while now (should probably do another 7B really as I've not done one for a while)..

M: Tor - Worked Half Decent (F7c)... Worked out the moves but wasn't feeling on for the RP.
T: Works - Finally linked the bottom of the brown 7c from the dropdown move - Progress! Did most of the Black circuit.
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Works - Repeated Tuesday's performance and reaquainted myself with the top section, might make this the winter project
S: Burbage S - Perfect gritstone day (if a little warm)... Did the usual circuit but unusually managed to get up into the scoop on the sheep, match, faff about for a while and
then plop off not knowing exactly what to do.... Been missing from my CV for some time this one so might go do it this week...
S: Decorating 

A good week in that I did a fair bit and made progress - Great to be back on the grit but do miss the lime - Ah well, cest la vie..

This week: Boulder, Circuits, Possibly fingerboard.

:D

[fried]

Would there be any chance of someone 'running' this thread? It seems to me that it's dying on its feet and not achieving anything.

The other sides version always had a bit more interaction and at least it felt like someone was keeping an eye on you.

I'm beginning to feel like my facebook cousins writing about when they last had a shit.

[shark]

The other sides version always had a bit more interaction and at least it felt like someone was keeping an eye on you.

Hey fried - you're awesome - keep doing the press-ups and victory will be yours !!!

It will get a bit livelier in the winter when everyone gets back to the serious business of training. 

[fried]

That's all I wanted: a little pat on the head

[Muenchener]

STG:  Score > 600 in boulder comp. Actually scored: 540 
   Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

In which I learn some things about competition bouldering:
- a summer focusing on largely slabby multipitch is not good training for it
- I do not cope well with crowds of onlookers providing encouragement and helpful beta
- there are prepubescent girls who climb better than I do. Lots of them.
- I am especially weak on burly pulls on big rounded volumes.

#3 I can try to do something about before the next round in three weeks

M: Bike to work 25km.
     Office gym bouldering: turkish get-ups & 10 mins ARC warm up, 30 mins threshold bouldering, rotator cuff & wrist extensor exercises
T: Bike to work 28km; yoga
W:
T: Office gym boulder coaching session
F: Yoga: pre-comp stretch & relax
S: Boulder comp see above.
S:

[shark]

M.
T. AM. Tor. horrid. cold windy rain blowing in. dogged up proj once then led push-up and dogged to top which was getting wet. Retrieved draws on Tin-of and strained neck in the process somehow. Felt shattered and burnt out after.
W.
T. 2am start to airport got to Kalymnos mid PM. Hiked up to Grand Grotte and hoped someone would take pity on me. They didn't.
F. Climbed with and was burnt off by a stray Cumbrian legend on Telendos. Redpointed a stiff 7b. Nice meal after.
S. Climbed with a Londoner last met in Rodellar 4 years ago who also burnt me off. Got high on the O/S on Silene but failed to redpoint any higher. Toby shows up. Relief. No chance of getting burned off now.
S. Climbed at Panorama and bag 7a, 7a+ and a soft 7b (Lulu in the Sky)

Can't believe how good Kalymnos is. I had been 8 years ago but don't recall the views, weather, rock, routes, food and general atmosphere being quite this good. Also London Ed has shown me a good exercise which has helped with the golfers elbow where you twist your wrist from right to left ideally holding the neck of a wine bottle or similar

[tommytwotone]

...the other sides version always had a bit more interaction and at least it felt like someone was keeping an eye on you.

I'm beginning to feel like my facebook cousins writing about when they last had a shit.

So come on then, out with it - when was it?! 

[rich d]

As we're dire on every level I think the insect overlord made a mistake patting you on the head. Surely it should have been more like a Twight motivation -
Fried you did fuck all monday to friday you lazy lard ass and at 74.8 you're a fat fuck. You live in font and waste sunday doing shoulder stuff - get it sorted you soft bastard.  
Is that better?

[nai]

M. 8 sets 30 move 1-3-5 circuits, felt like hard work, 9th set FAIL. 3x10 pullups.
T. some pullups maybe, 4x10 i think & pressups
w
T. hungover Burbage Sth bumbling, tried 3 7as and managed 1 move. Early Night.
f
S. Gardoms, did better - G-Thang SS & English Voodoo.  Went to look at Desperot and struggled though.
s - some foot on campussy stuff & deadhangs

[205Chris]

STG: Off to Font next week.

M: 4x4s at the Edge
T: Nada
W: Works. Manage one of the 10 new yellows that were up then did some comp wall problems.
T: Nada
F: Drove to Wales. Hoped to get an hour or two in at the Cromlech boulders but it was wet. Damn.
S: Slate. Warm up in Australia then tick the Burning. Persuade my mate to put the clips in Heading the Shot. Got frustratingly close to the onsight but slipped off the last hard move with my toes burning. Did it next go but tore a notch out of my finger on one of the crimps. Not what I wanted a week before Font  .
S: More rain. Had a look at Jerry's roof. Figured out a decent sequence from the start up into the crux but couldn't really work the crux as my pads kept blowing away every time I pulled on. Quite psyched for this but not not sure how often I'll be getting over to Wales. Came home and spent an hour on the garage board.

Good weekend in Wales. Bit disappointed to miss the onsight on Heading though. This week: rest, skin repair then font.

[tomtom]

As we're dire on every level I think the insect overlord made a mistake patting you on the head. Surely it should have been more like a Twight motivation -
Fried you did fuck all monday to friday you lazy lard ass and at 74.8 you're a fat fuck. You live in font and waste sunday doing shoulder stuff - get it sorted you soft bastard.  
Is that better?

Oh, I did nothing this week aside from drink on Saturday and potter at Hobby moor for an hour on Sunday.

[fried]

As we're dire on every level I think the insect overlord made a mistake patting you on the head. Surely it should have been more like a Twight motivation -
Fried you did fuck all monday to friday you lazy lard ass and at 74.8 you're a fat fuck. You live in font and waste sunday doing shoulder stuff - get it sorted you soft bastard.  
Is that better?

Full Metal Jacket Clip


Maybe a bit of harmless barracking would  help

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Bouldering Rockcity did 40 problems trying to increase my session staminia.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Bouldering Rockcity new problems no grades.Felt a bit jaded from Tuesday.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights abit more weight on bench press.Deadhanging 8 lbs weight on all hangs except 35 degree slopers 18 lb weight.Increased hang to 8 secs on last rep of 3. Bike 2hrs 15 mins.
Sun. Bouldering at a damp Duckstones managed to do a decent amount of climbing despite this.Got lost getting there and ended up plowing through the heather,boggs and bracken to get back to the road. Got cramp in my legs later in the evening.
Knackered.