[gremlin]

Hi,

As I get older I find it increasingly diffficult to recover after a good traing session, whether it be fingerboard, bouldering or route climbing.
Has anyone got any advice on how to speed the recovery process up? I'm thinking in terms of diet, supplements, compression tops, that sort of thing.
I get plenty of sleep and stretch often so that's a good start I guess. 

[JohnM]

Beetroot juice.

[SA Chris]

Yoga.

[andy_e]

Ibuprofen and red wine. And a protein shake.

[slackline]

Go climbing/training with ghisino.

[Big Dave]

How often are your training sessions? It could be that you're not getting enough rest.

A good diet with plenty of protein is also important.

[gremlin]

I climb 2-3 times a week and also squeeze in an half hour fingerboard session once or twice per week.

I hear what people are saying about protein but I have a well balanced diet and don't want to put any weight on!

BTW: Beetroot Juice ? 

[shark]

Some of the Eurowads wear TENS machines strapped to their forearms after sessions. A more British alternative is showering your forearms with cold water when you get home.

[Big Dave]

I climb 2-3 times a week and also squeeze in an half hour fingerboard session once or twice per week.

I hear what people are saying about protein but I have a well balanced diet and don't want to put any weight on!

BTW: Beetroot Juice ? 

3-4 sessions a week sounds ok, not over doing it (unless they're several hours long!)

Not tried it myself but Beetroot juice is rich in nitrates, which are meant to have health benefits and improve sports performance.

[kingholmesy]

A more British alternative is showering your forearms with cold water when you get home.

This is the equivalent of the boxer's ice bath. For maximum effectiveness you should submerge your forearms (& the rest of you?!) in cold water ASAP after finishing training. Obviously this is easier at the wall than at the crag, although I have witnessed someone at Malham running down from the catwalk to the stream after doing laps on a route.

[shark]

I have witnessed someone at Malham running down from the catwalk to the stream after doing laps on a route.

 

[Omar15]

i honestly think protein shakes are the best thing in the world. my stomach doesn't really like the whey ones so i go for the soya stuff - i think its £10 from holland and barrett.

I know nothing about the putting on weight thing but im fairly sure you'd only put on weight if you were doing a different type of exercise - eg lifting weights.

I find if i down a protein shake after a good session, have a proper meal when i get home then the next day i feel a lot better than if i skipped the shake.

[highrepute]

I have witnessed someone at Malham running down from the catwalk to the stream after doing laps on a route.

 

Saw Paul Reeves doing this and thought I'd try it out. Woke up the next morning with conjunctivitis in both eyes! ouch! not done it since

[ghisino]

Go climbing/training with ghisino.

or buy some radioactive holds 

[shark]

I have witnessed someone at Malham running down from the catwalk to the stream after doing laps on a route.

 

Saw Paul Reeves doing this and thought I'd try it out. Woke up the next morning with conjunctivitis in both eyes! ouch! not done it since

Respect.  Not even Paul immerses his head.

[Pebblespanker]

Not sure how much value the following is but I'm in my late 40's and I use protein shakes (PhD Phara whey) after heavy PE training sessions but instead of the reccomended 1 scoop per 250ml fluid I use 1 scoop in 450ml of skimmed milk - definitely seems to help me feel human the next morning and I'm not putting on weight - good job really as I'm lardy enough as it is!

Ibuprofen occaisionally as a precaution after maximal finger strength sessions on the board if I feel any stiffness as I have a slightly dicky left ring finger 2nd joint and it works a treat, that and 24hrs before any more maximal finger work - old joints seem to take a little longer to recover in my case

[Big Dave]

I wouldn't worry about having a bit of extra protein, weight gain is unlikely unless you're consuming excess calories.

I wouldn't use NSAIDs (ibuprofen) to assist in recovery either.

[shark]

As I get older I find it increasingly diffficult to recover after a good traing session, whether it be fingerboard, bouldering or route climbing.

Recovery is trainable.

This requires doing sessions where you are only partially recovered and is hard going and you will feel sore until your body adapts to it but keep the faith. Build up the number of sessions at a pace you are comfortable with typically "stopping strong" on power/strength sessions and alternating and varying session types. 3 weeks of packing the sessions in then a lighter week and repeat seems to be a pattern that works for many. I have been able to up the number of sessions in any one week and would be surprised if you were older than me.

[TobyD]

Recovery is trainable.
This requires doing sessions where you are only partially recovered and is hard going and you will feel sore until your body adapts to it but keep the faith.

That's knowledge. Know when to accept pain (the right sort) and get on with it, and when to rest.  ARC sessions in between higher intensity workouts help me when i have access to the rock / facilities. 
I too have dabbled with the Malham back 'ice bath', and found it pretty effective actually. I have never stuck my head in as well though.
Perhaps this stuff is the future:
http://www.bathandunwind.com/brands/badger-balm/?gclid=CMnMzsr956sCFYJO4QodN2xMJw#mu=%2Fbrands%2Fbadger-balm%2Fbadger-balm%2FBadger-Balm-Sore-Muscle-Rub.htm%3Fajax%3Dtrue%26cb%3D11896990
 

[gremlin]

So it's looking like a protein suplement is the way to go as well as allowing my body time to adapt to a given work load (shark).
Also, the Badger Balm sounds like a must have, if only for the great name!

I already soak my forearms in icy water after a hard session so lets see how the protein works. anyone got any links for some good deals?

P.S. I took a look at the beetroot juice idea and it looks like nearly a pint must be consumed daily to see any benefits! 

[SA Chris]

Would that be enough for it to look like you are pissing blood ribena?

[abarro81]

myprotein is cheapest AFAIK. I go for a bit of glutamine with a pint of water each morning, and with a bit of milk each evening too. I heard having a good drink of water each morning when you wake up is good to help flush everything out after your recovery during sleep...

[Fultonius]

You might want to mix some carbs in to your post training shake. Even though the number of carbs burnt in a typical climbing session aren't very high, most of the advice says taking simple carbs on completion of training really kick starts the recovery phase. Obviously protein is required to rebuild muscles, but not *that* much. It's pretty small muscles you're taxing.

Obviously the the extra calories you consume post-workout should be compensated for somewhere else in the day.

Also, about streetching. Be careful not to be too intense as you may be inadvertently over stressing the muscles and not giving them the time to recover. Gentle is key.

[mikester]

You might want to mix some carbs in to your post training shake. Even though the number of carbs burnt in a typical climbing session aren't very high, most of the advice says taking simple carbs on completion of training really kick starts the recovery phase. Obviously protein is required to rebuild muscles, but not *that* much. It's pretty small muscles you're taxing.

Agree. Recovery nutrition should seek to restock glycogen muscle stores and repair muscle; (simple) carbs for the former, protein for the latter. Restoring muscle glycogen is really important if you're going to train hard again within a short space of time, say the next day. Bear in mind that protein uptake will be inhibited if you don't also take on board carbs, and carb/glycogen update will be inhibited if you don't take on board water. So, carb-protein shakes are awesome. Maybe throw in some glutamine and some (disgusting) BCAA for good measure. No need to overdo the protein, you really don't need bodybuilder quantities.

[shark]

Can't believe I forgot nutrient timing. 

Some carbs before, carbs during and  carbs with protein after. Ham and cream cheese sandwich washed down with skimmed milk is my current combo of choice. Mmmm