[tomtom]

Hello,
I'm aware this probably has been covered before somewhere here, but if someone could let me know my complaint/releavent muscle/area etc.. is then I'll gladly trawl through the previous threads.... so doctor I have this recurrent pain - not a large one but it comes after some especially campus type moves... its pretty much centred here where the red cross is.. Its quite managable at the moment - as in it only niggles a little if I dont stress it too much..
Thanks and sorry for asking a probably obvious question...
Tom

[Falling Down]

Exactly the same spot as my chronic tennis elbow/tendonitis that was probably a symptom of nerve compression in my back and shoulders.  See the elbow thread.

[tomtom]

Exactly the same spot as my chronic tennis elbow/tendonitis that was probably a symptom of nerve compression in my back and shoulders.  See the elbow thread.

Wow! thats back/shoulder related! I shall look them up... cheers FD.

[highrepute]

"just watch out for the guns, they'll getya!"

Anchorman - Watch out for this guns - SAPO Vídeos

[Falling Down]

This thread.

My advice would be to stop doing whatever's aggravating it right now, see if it settles and then start rehab.  Mine started as a niggle and ended up keeping me out of climbing for six months and cost lot of money in physio.

[tomtom]

This thread.

My advice would be to stop doing whatever's aggravating it right now, see if it settles and then start rehab.  Mine started as a niggle and ended up keeping me out of climbing for six months and cost lot of money in physio.

It comes and goes.. comes with Limestone and goes with Grit I'll start some of the wrist curls and press up regime... I've had tendonitus in my elbow (inside) before that stopped me climbing for about a year - and this feels very different, almost muscular and much less persistant. Hence its more of a gripe than an injury to me (at the moment!).. but avoiding crimps and pull ups (which I dont like anyway) is probably a good idea!

[BB]

Over-developed/spasming lats in climbers cause a miriad of niggles and shoulder/elbow instabilities. You could do a lot worse than to find a good sports massage therapist and have them massage your bat wings into submission.

***I am not a medical practitioner and this is not a diagnosis***

[douglas]

It comes and goes.. comes with Limestone and goes with Grit

It comes with limestone because crimps require the wrist to be pulled back (using that sore tendon) whereas gritstone is more open handed, with a neutral wrist position.

[tomtom]

It comes and goes.. comes with Limestone and goes with Grit

It comes with limestone because crimps require the wrist to be pulled back (using that sore tendon) whereas gritstone is more open handed, with a neutral wrist position.

Thanks, I'd figured that (hence the smiley ) though its interesting the post mentioning pinching leading to this...  it did seem to come on after trying some pinchy/crimp-sidepull things at Wubicon..

I rarely crimp things - a series of finger injuries a few years ago led to me forcing myself to open hand most things.. Its just on those little lime edges when you need to bone down some power....

So press ups, shoulder work, and some wrist curls... No lime, climbing walls and a diet of only open handed grit. Doesnt sound too bad

[Big Dave]

Looks like you know the drill, I had Tennis elbow a few years back, press ups, wrist curls, reverse wrist curls and hammer curls helped the recovery. Still went climbing just took it easy for a few weeks.

I also got one of those 'tennis elbow' straps to go round the elbow too, but think that did f*ck all!

[tommytwotone]

Alright T2, all good advice above.

I had a elbow thing a good while back and John O from The Clinic recommended icing for 2 x 30 mins a day which I found helped. Washing up bowl of cold water, chuck some ice cubes in, then your elbow and leave for half an hour.

NB: you don't realise how long half an hour is until you've spent it with your elbow submerged in icy water...I would recommend getting having a good DVD / book / cup of tea / beer in place before you start!

[gremlin]

Alright T2, all good advice above.

I had a elbow thing a good while back and John O from The Clinic recommended icing for 2 x 30 mins a day which I found helped. Washing up bowl of cold water, chuck some ice cubes in, then your elbow and leave for half an hour.

NB: you don't realise how long half an hour is until you've spent it with your elbow submerged in icy water...I would recommend getting having a good DVD / book / cup of tea / beer in place before you start!

I do this as well and find that it also helps with general recovery from a tough session. I place my whole forearm(elbow/wrist/fingers) in the ice water. Basically I'm looking for the area to go pink and goosebumpy after taking it out of the water. There's a name for this effect which escapes my right now but it's supposed to increase blood flow to the area immersed by 500% apparently!

[chris05]

I do this as well and find that it also helps with general recovery from a tough session. I place my whole forearm(elbow/wrist/fingers) in the ice water. Basically I'm looking for the area to go pink and goosebumpy after taking it out of the water. There's a name for this effect which escapes my right now but it's supposed to increase blood flow to the area immersed by 500% apparently!

The lewis reaction

[tomtom]

I do this as well and find that it also helps with general recovery from a tough session. I place my whole forearm(elbow/wrist/fingers) in the ice water. Basically I'm looking for the area to go pink and goosebumpy after taking it out of the water. There's a name for this effect which escapes my right now but it's supposed to increase blood flow to the area immersed by 500% apparently!

The lewis reaction

[gremlin]

Close, but this is better!

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2007/06/finger-injury-treatment-videocast.html

[tomtom]

Hmm.. this is one weird injury...

Been doing the press ups, and the odd curl session (I keep forgetting).. been to the wall a couple of times this week and just worked on the juggy large hold open handed things.. Its not really hurt at all - importantly not after climbing.. but today, its started niggling like a bugger as I started walking home from work!!?????? wtf?

[Plattsy]

This is the sort of shit that happens when you get delusions of grandeur and call the grit prematurely. 

Dunno why walking home would aggrevate your elbow mind. 

[tomtom]

This is the sort of shit that happens when you get delusions of grandeur and call the grit prematurely. 

Dunno why walking home would aggrevate your elbow mind. 

yup - lime getting its revenge! I was wondering if a bit of excessive mouse action had done it some grief...
#canihavetitaniumandkevlarelbowsplease

[Plattsy]

There are a few alternatives to a regular mouse.

Ergonomic mice

[Johnny Brown]

Its not really hurt at all - importantly not after climbing.. but today, its started niggling like a bugger as I started walking home from work!!?????? wtf?

Sounds like the problem is being referred from tension in your back/ shoulders to me. When my back is bad it is at least consistent when climbing, its when moving about normally that the tight areas randomly swap places.

[Falling Down]

I agree.  It's very similar to the problem I had.  Tom are you getting pins and needles anywhere?

[tomtom]

I agree.  It's very similar to the problem I had.  Tom are you getting pins and needles anywhere?

Nope - and its been fine today *shrugs* it sometimes aches when I brush my teeth with my left hand!

It seems to be at the managable stage at the moment - as in it never gets so bad I have to stop climbing or anthing else (apart from steering clear of crimpy limestone..). I find the outstretching exercise (top image) with one of these really works/stretches the aching part.. I'm assuming thats beneficial? :/



I'm going to have a fettle with my seating position at work and see if that makes much of a difference - already moved back to using the mouse with my RH.. (I moved it to my LH c.10 years ago when my RH got a bit RSI'ish)

[lagerstarfish]

but today, its started niggling like a bugger as I started walking home from work!!?????? wtf?

I have just been advising someone on just such an elbow problem whilst walking

the solutions we have discussed are...

1. hold your Tenents Super in the other hand, or at least swap hands regularly

2. drink the first half of the can quickly, so it weighs less

3. hold the can at its base and develop a more open-elbow method of raising it to sip/chug

4. wait till you get home before starting drinking - and so use a table to hold the can whilst not drinking

see which ones work for you

[duncan]

... its been fine today *shrugs*

Keep shrugging then.

(Seriously, does sound more like a neck/shoulder problem, not that you should believe anything here of course)

[Falling Down]

I'm not convinced that squeezing balls does much good.  Get a 12kg kettlebell or dumbbell and start doing SOTS presses, Turkish Get Ups;  perhaps start doing O'head squats with a broom handle and do some wall squats - they really open up my thoracic spine.   Deadlifts will strengthen your posterior chain too.

[tomtom]

I'm not convinced that squeezing balls does much good.  Get a 12kg kettlebell or dumbbell and start doing SOTS presses, Turkish Get Ups;  perhaps start doing O'head squats with a broom handle and do some wall squats - they really open up my thoracic spine.   Deadlifts will strengthen your posterior chain too.

The squeezing does feck all , it's the stretching opposed by the rubber bands that works it. What's sots?

[Falling Down]

His squat isn't great though, a bit saggy.

I have one of those squeeze stretchy things and reckon it's ok for warming up on the way to the crag.  But, In my experience, to shift nerves, muscle and bone into the right place though you need to lift some iron or Bodyweight.  I'm away this week and weekend with work otherwise I would invite you over to try some of this stuff out.

[tomtom]

Cheers FD, I'm guessing you can do that kind of move with a regular dumbbell?

[tomtom]

Sorry I see you've answered me in the prev post

[JamesR]

Might be brachiaradiallis (sp!) insertion trouble. Look up muscle of the forearm. I tore mine a few years back, was a bummer.

I had tingling and loss of power.

Depending on sensation or pain, start using much bigger holds now. Spend a long period climbing only open handed, you won't be able to do those crimper problems, but that doesn't matter in the long run. Work on driving your weight up using the power from your feet and hips, make this the focus of your training. This will take the relative stress away from from your arms and increase your overall body power. Do slow steady push ups, do not target number of reps, focus on quality of movement. Spend time doing slow and long stretches of the extensor musacles in your forearm. Do slow reps of external rotations with a small dumbell.

I am not a physio, but have spent a fortune with them!! These techniques worked for me. I still do these injury prevention exercises and I've not had a forearm injury for 3 years.

Good luck, go see a physio, I might be talking shite. You'll be fine. 

[lukeyboy]

On a slight hijack, I've recently gotten some elbow niggles and am planning to start some sort of wrist curl/press up/tricep dip training regime.

Quick question - I know it of course varies person to person, but as a ball park figure what weight dumbells do people use for wrist curls?

[shark]

I use 6kg for the the wrist strengthening DB complex at 2:40 which includes wrist curls:



Will also incorporate reps of the movement in the below video to ward off golfers elbow (once I've got rid of it)

Eccentric exercise for golfers elbow

[tomtom]

5kg.
I also reccomend the russian squat lift things Falling Down talked about... Mental exercise makes me feel like I've had a back massage afterwards.

[Big Dave]

If it's the inside of the elbow (golfers) giving you grief then I found these work best

http://www.bodybuilding.com/exercises/detail/view/name/standing-palms-up-barbell-behind-the-back-wrist-curl

Start off with just the bar then gradually add some weight each time.

[lukeyboy]

Yeah, it's the inside of the elbow (so golfers). Thanks a lot for the advice, I'll get me some weights and start pumping iron 

[metal arms]

I've recently developed golfers as well.  I am unable to do these curls as I have very limited movement in my wrists (hence user name).

Do those SOTS presses sort out your elbows, or is it that the elbow problems are symptomatic of other issues like core/back etc. 

Anyone got any other exercise recommendations to sort out golfers without using your wrists?

[douglas]

Try standing upright and rolling a dumbell out of your hand by slowly extending your fingers. Use the other arm to set the dumbell back into your hand. It's no use messing around with light weights in my experience and try to reach failure after 10 or so reps. Repeat.

[metal arms]

Holding my arms out in front of me?

[douglas]

No, sorry, arms by your side. Something like this:

http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/eastern-bloc-training-heavy-finger-rolls/

[metal arms]

Nice one.

I couldn't quite picture it but that articles helped.  I guess I just open my hand to 'nearly' dropping the weight, then assist it back closed.

Cheers Douglas