[duncan]

When I used to take any notice - it used to be that the foam jobbies were regarded as being better for absorbing a 'side of head hitting the rock' type impact but were useless after one such impact, whereas the more traditional hard shell helmets (like the old Ecrin Roc) were better at providing protection for a few impacts before becoming fubar'd, which is why alpinists/winter climbers used to like hard shell lids - lots of falling rocks and ice.

That is what our sponsors The BMC suggest.

What others say - try on a selection.  I had decided I wanted a Half Dome until I put one on my head and ended up opting for a Meteor instead. 

[petejh]

I know a couple of people who swear by the BD Tracer as the best helmet they've ever had. Not idiots or punters either. I guess its what fits your head.

It's the plastic adjustment buckle on the Tracer, which is supposed to snap shut to hold the adjustment straps in place, which is the badly designed part - mine doesn't snap shut because it broke the first outing I had with it. It broke because it's a poor and fragile design and therefore it doesn't hold the chin strap in position, which makes wearing the helmet pretty annoying - especially for winter climbing where you need to adjust the chin strap through the day to fit over balaclavas and hoddies being added/taken off. Just a cheap and badly designed piece of plastic on an otherwise decent helmet. Bearing in mind how much I paid for the lid I expected a more durable piece of kit. The Meteor has all the good features of the Tracer, without the bad.

[SA Chris]

I would have taken it back?

[El Mocho]

I know a couple of people who swear by the BD Tracer as the best helmet they've ever had. Not idiots or punters either. I guess its what fits your head.

It's the plastic adjustment buckle on the Tracer...

I got the BD one, never had an issue with the strap - but then it hasn't broken on me! I have worn it for all my (helmet wearing) climbing for the last few years - trad, winter and Alpine and it has been great. I don't bother adjusting the chin strap at all from when I first set it up, the helmet fits me so well I don't have the strap super tight so it still fits with hats on underneath.

The Meateor 2 or whatever it was just didn't fit me as well - for my size head it seemed much bulkier...

Like people have said try them on.

ps Pete - have had a bit to do with Lindsay at BD in the UK and he has always been really helpfull with gear/returns, could be worth giving him a shout...

[Grubes]

Nik,
I have the lightweight BD one. (not sure of the model name). I hate it but I hate every helmet I have tried on.

Let me know next time you are down the wall I can lend you mine for a few of weeks if you want.

[nik at work]

Cheers for the offer Grubes. I might try it for size if that's OK, I'd be wary of letting me disapear off into the distance with it, lord knows what I'd go flinging myself off, it might not return the same shape as it left.

[jwi]

+1 for Meteor.  I've had lots of different helmets over the years, but never really used them that much. Now I wear the helmet for most routes.

[Drew]

I'd say the Meteor 3+ (the newest one), and the Elios seem to fit more people than anything else I've ever sold. I think the new Half Dome is better than the old version. Not sure about the chin strap, but the actual helmet itself. I'd still look at Petzl though.

[webbo]

I too have a Petzl Elios. Always been fine for me...

My god when do where this shirley not when working the keel.Or does it sit on your desk at work suitably battered and scratched to impress the under grads "yes thats a little scratch I got on the north face after the 5th bivouac".

[tomtom]

I too have a Petzl Elios. Always been fine for me...

My god when do where this shirley not when working the keel.Or does it sit on your desk at work suitably battered and scratched to impress the under grads "yes thats a little scratch I got on the north face after the 5th bivouac".

nope it's in a dark room along with my rope (!!!!!). I last wore it 3 years ago

[webbo]

Helmet now rope.Next you will saying they are stored along side your axes and crampons with your copy of cold climbs with just a couple of ticks needed to complete the set.

[TobyD]

It's the BD Tracer, not the Half dome. Still shit as fuck though.

I guess its what fits your head.

Agreed, the best helmet is the one which you are most likely to wear, and not leave in the bag, because its restrictive or hot or whatever.

I have an original meteor, lasted for many years and no issues. I'd go lightweight personally, but lots of people like the Elios too.

[Johnny Brown]

A fair few of them come in two sizes too, so its worth checking before writing off a model.

[petejh]

I would have taken it back?

I can't for the life of me remember why I didn't take it back at the time, it was just before last winter and I probably got sidetracked and thought I'd left it too long for a refund/replacement. Where's Ann Robinson or whoever hosts that consumer show when you need her?

[tomtom]

Helmet now rope.Next you will saying they are stored along side your axes and crampons with your copy of cold climbs with just a couple of ticks needed to complete the set.

:)no axes but some old placcy boots in the attic... I did second (ahem attempt to second) Nai up the rasp the other week which was a cruel reminder why I should stick with my mat and bucket...

[csurfleet]

Just because this image should be on both pages...