[tomtom]

I'll kick things off this week.. the only way is up!

Nothing.
Cold and work from Mon > Friday, then felt Log+ on Sat and spent most of today being sick.

Still, on the upside I seem to have lost a couple of pounds...

[Muenchener]

STG:  Frankenjura 6b
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

A quiet week: Oktoberfest, family stuff at weekend. "Tapering" before (hopefully, weather pemitting) long weekend in Frankenjura next week.

M: Oktoberfest with work 
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Twelve metre 6bs: success. Longer/pumpy 6bs: success on first twelve metres. But autumn with no big trip planned probably not the right time for a big power endurance campaign?
T: Oktoberfest - with family this time, so less and more  on rollercoasters etc. Probably of some value as mental training
F: Weights: office gym. Squats, shoulder stability stuff, core. Sent off entry form for a boulder comp in October.
S: Domestic bliss in garden: getting a new coat of varnish on the treehouse before winter, interspersed with sets of frenchies, assisted one-armers etc. on the swing.
S: Family hillwalking with friends & kids (= "active rest")

[nai]

stg: get well

M - felt eugh and the afformentioned twanged forearm was sore but I had a pass and it was daft not to use it, headed to burbage for some gentle pootling, forearm stood the test but by Triangle Buttress the rest of me had had enough.
w-t - varying levels of eugh
F - feeling slightly better headed to the Walnut, had fun (sometimes scary) ticking everything <=7a except one problem i couldn't identify, all possibities boasted varying levels of greeness and the psyche didn't extend to trying them all.  Also managed to top-out Central Crack at last which was the only problem I'd not done on the BMC circuit which is a good fun and you should go do it.
s-s seems Friday's good feeling was a mysterious window of wellbeing, feeling eugh again.

Eugh!

[Plattsy]

Gonna try and get back into Power Club.

Goal - 7s

M - Crap session down the foundry.
T - Rest
W - 4 mile run - minimum effort
T - Rubicon. Worked middle trav (R-L) into upper (L-R) and then into RHS up problem. Failing on 2nd last move.
F - Rest
S - Higgar. Been a while since I've been on grit blocs. Decent mini circuit re-learning grit technique. Played on WTG and thought the first few moves were ok. One to go back to.
S - Chelmorton chase AM and a session down The Works PM.

[shark]

Thanks tomtom

Weight 11.6-8

M. Evening. 30 mins jog with boys ariund burbage. Felt old
T.  Foundry. Evening with Poppy and Ben. Bouldered on Wave - was expecting to be awesome and wasn't. Did some Aerocap circuits in Shed after.
W.
T. 
F.  Noon. Malham. Expected to go on MO again - but Oak was dry!!! or at least dry enough. Warmish but overcast. Best go from ground was tickling undercut.  Strained mid2 fingers on right hand at base a bit. Did some easy traversing in Shed when got back.
S.  Shed PM AeroCap using 20/10 structure which worked well
S.  Shed eve. Tried Ben's new problem which he did and I didnt. Tried Oak circuits after but was shit.

After doing well last week this week's performance was a bit of a comedown to say the fucking least. Weight high, morale low. Further whining available here

[i_a_coops]

M
T - meant to go to Cratcliffe, rain forced retreat to Raven Tor. should have redpointed Sardine, failed. Made it to Cratcliffe in the evening and did a 7A+ chimney in the dark, appropriately called Look At Me!
W - pullups & encores on back 3 with weight belt
T - indoor bouldering. dispatched a slopey V6, was feeling well strong on a slopey V7/8 but then I started bleeding from under my fingernails 
F
S - WCJ, had a bit of a mare redpointing Rubicon then went to Cornice and fell off the last move of Brachiation Dance on the flash. Sorted it out 3rd RP.
S - Raven Tor, slipped off Sardine a couple of times then did it. Sacked it off to WCJ and tried Too Old To Be Bold, finger held up well to some powerful half crimping. Sadly on RP I fell off while matching the finishing break cuz I had a retarded foot sequence. Sacked it off again to Curbar and did Peapod. Only swore once.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (5 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder thera-band work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (update: knee is feeling good, but possible extensor tendinitis is now holding me back!).

M: 5m run
T: bouldering NCC
W: 5m run & theraband
T: nothing
F: travel to london to see an old mate  , end up dancing for six hours 
S: recovery and travel home
S: bouldering at wrights, only a couple of problems were dry, made a very small amount of progress on fingers.

Fairly rubbish week as expected, but it probably did my elbows good as they have been a bit sore recently.

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before

M - Rest, exchausted from week in font

Tu - Rest, long bath and stretching

W - TCA session after work. Did all of the new black problems (5+ to 6B+), mostly flashed, to shake the cobwebs out. Did the finish of a white that I'd previously not been able to touch. Feeling good but wasted after 2 hours

Th - Circuits session at TCA. White 6c+ then blue 7a+ felt easy. New black 7b+ went in 2 once I'd sussed the crux move in the middle. Arranged a day trip to ansteys for Saturday

F - Rest

Sa - Ansteys - new high point on cider soak; fell popping for the last break (mix of foot slip and power out). Sequence refined and it was feeling much better than my last visit. It's going down next weekend!!

Su - No climbing - moved contents fo flat to mum and dad's place then did some pressups, shoulder stability and core exercises at home in the evening

Weight - heavy after font but an average of 66.7kg for the week is not too bad. Need to try and shed a kilo or so this week to be in primo condition for next weekend's last ditch effort

[douglas]

S.  Shed PM AeroCap using 20/10 structure which worked well

Hi Shark,

What is this 20/10 structure? Do you find yourself doing fartlek type intensity during AeroCap (I do) or is/should the intensity be roughly constant?

Thanks!

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage
LTG: Font 7b

M: Trip to Glasgow for meeting - 6am start, didn't get home until midnight.
T: Trip to York after work to watch The Minstermen vs Darlington. Also had a few 
W: Hip physio after work, dinner with Mrs TTT afterwards.
T: In London for meeting, stayed over and went to Hip Hop Karaoke London in the evening.
F: Off to my Dad's in East Anglia to help set up for his 60th birthday bash.
S: Dad's 60th birthday bash.
S: Recovering from Dad's 60th birthday bash.

Another good week from a social point of view, sadly no time in amongst all the running around for any training. On the plus side it looks like I'm in Leeds all week this week so I can get back on it.

Additionally it's the final of the Depot Bouldering League thing on Friday, looking forward to that even though my performance is going to be restricted by my dicky hip. Hoping for a minimal amount of left leg high rockovers.

[Luthor]

STG  - bouldering / injury free
MTG  - new goals needed
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - shoulder exercises
Tue     - Works: Lunchtime circuit board session
Wed     - Burbage: Brief bouldering session after work. Conditions poor.
Thurs   - Works: Bouldering
Fri     - rest
Sat     - Cratcliffe / RHS: Repeated cave right and jerry's traverse
Sun     - Works: Bouldering en famille. Shoulder exercises

[duncan]

Usual MT/LT goals.  STG: develop some fitness prior to next weekend in Pembroke.

M - Arch - easy circuit. 
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Arch - anaerobic endurance
T - Short run
F - Arch - anaerobic endurance
S - Fairlop - bouldering - with the lad who showed no interest whatsoever this time. 
S - Sore shoulder, family stuff.

Fairly productive week, 4 sessions on plastic/concrete was over doing it but no other options unfortunately.  No stamina at all, so all set for a spanking next weekend. 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Indecent Direct...

M: Nowt
T: Bouldering @ The Works - Was hoping to get rest of pinks ticked but was truly crap... Kinda followed a structured "try really hard 3 times rest for a minute or 2" approach but mainly threw myself @ things that felt hard... 4 x 10mins AeroCap session to finish... Wasted!
W: Chill
T: Isolated hard moves on board, beastmaker and bar - Assisted 1 armers, deep locks, deadpoints, levers (still shit at these), slow mo steep moves, wide arm toe touches, 1 arm shoulder rolls etc. Felt like I was going to burst!
F: PE @ The Works - 15 moves then 1 minute rest x 3, 3 times. 7c, 7b, 7a+... Started reasonably, went downhill pretty quickly.... Couldn't lift my arms!
S: REST!
S: Raven Tor - Feeling pretty tired, unmotivated and a bit coldy. Put Clips in Indecent Direct, did all moves including top this time. Went for a RP, cocked up the start - Doh! Decided to just do some links and surprised myself getting from undercuts to the chains in one push, realised that I'd not actually worked out how to clip the chains so had to sit on a bolt and refine my beta (while boxed). Good session!

Good week all told. Got my eyes on the prize, it's just a matter of time now;-) Just hoping I get to do it before it wets out now! Was feeling pretty coldy and also a bit weak so pleased with how it went on Sunday really.

This week: Power, PE, AeroCap and back to the Tor on Friday morning. Psyched!

:D

[fried]

Pathetic week.

Monday - crap/achy/tired indoor session where I spend most of the time sitting on a mat watching.
Tuesday - Sunday nothing.

Weekend weather was lovely, but couldn't muster up the courage/ find the time to get outside. 1 hour to get to Font. 1.5 hours a bus ride/ train ride/ walk to get to the car in the first place.

Look guitily out of the window.

Did my 150 press ups per day

STG - Sell the fucking car, buy one that doesn't go through liquid like George Best and find a car park somewhere closer.

Weight 75.2kg

[Fultonius]

After last week's Epic Training Sessions, this wek has beenmore work. ButI managed to get a wee training sesison or two in on the rig.

Mon: Travel to Azerbaijan
Tuesday: Boat transfer offshore
Wed: Work (kinda!)
Thursday:  10 min cycle, pull ups (50ish), various endurancey type shizzle on the Metolius Finger Wreckers (Rock Rings).
Fri: Work
Sat: Cardio - 25 min run @ 9 to 10.5km/h, 500m row (sacked it off due to achey brachi/biceps), 25 minutes on a cross trainer which set at Level 1 was a stuggle, level 2 was 145bpm and Level 4 was all out Lactic 90% max HR shizzle!!!)
Sun: Was going to do a finger workout but played in a pool comp instead.

Nae bad - nice to get a finger session in. If I get one more in it should tide me over till I get home.

[205Chris]

My last 2 weeks have been pretty busy, not much to report.

Plenty of time at the works / Foundry but no outdoor climbing. Hopefully this is all money in the bank for Font in November though.

Hoping to get out his weekend with a bit of luck.

[webbo]

M.Turbo 10 min w/up 20mins 65% of max h/r 15 mins 75 % 10 mins 85% 10 w/down 6 mile walk.
T. Turbo 10 minw/up 8 x5 min on 1 min off 10 min w/down.
W. 12 mile walk. Dumbell weight session with ladybells 4kg elbow felt ok.so deadhanging session again elbow felt ok.
Th.Went to see knee consultant about missus 's dodgy knee in Sheffield.
F.Dumbell session 6.5kg,deadhanging with 4lb weight.Bike 2 hrs.
S.Bike 3hrs 7 mins.
Su. dumbell session 9kg for most heavier on b/p and rows 11.5kg & 13kg.Deahanging with 4lb weight felt I was up to ware I was before elbow op.

Not a bad week to say I'm only a week post op
 

[heelhookofglory]

M–F: REST WEEK
S: Chest, abs, shoulders (weights)
S: Walk at Froggatt / Shoulders, back, abs (weights)

Still resting A2 pulley. Well after 3 or 4 weeks of not climbing I've got just over one week left and then I'll start easy tapering. This is bloody hard, especially with this nice weather. The walk at Froggatt on Sunday has made things worse. I really want to climb. I'm putting muscle mass on from the weight training too but I can't not do anything. 

[shark]

Deahanging with 4lb weight felt I was up to ware I was before elbow op.

Not a bad week to say I'm only a week post op

Bit of an understatement - that's amazing

[webbo]

Yes I'm pleased with how I'm recovering.Not sure as to whether it will improve anything long term I saw the surgeon on wednesday who advised not to lift more than 5 lbs with that arm EVER .At that point I thought it best not to mention what I'd been doing.Apparently if I do any heavy lifting I will get arthritis given the state of my body I wonder if I'd notice.