[shark]

Weight 11.6-8

M. Eve Shed Oak circuit 3 decent attempts with 10 sec rest betweeen sections
T. AM Weights various and deadhanging. Good progress on counterweighted one armers on edge. Eve Edge with Poppy and did some campusing. At home reacquainted with Oak circuit in Shed
W. Eve Foundry with Poppy. Unplanned session - had meant to rest. Tried an 'elite' problem for first time (pink swirls 7A+ on rt side of steep section) Did in all moves in 3 sections.
T. Did a couple of deadhangs and started complexes. Confirmed that I needed a rest so knocked it on head

F. Eve Shed. Evening. Warmup on gastons - did whole link felt bionic. Upped game on circuit linking first 12 moves then rest with 10secs rest though failing on very last move. 3rd set bit of a shambles but first two goes awesome. Well chuffed. Went to pub
S.
S. Morning. Intended to go Malham but Oak wet. Expecting Tor to be condensing as it had been reported to have been Sat and Fri. Actually ace conditions. Sticked up Indecent. Did the stopper top move of Rage first go and repeated. Maybe cool conditions helped - much easier than before. Played on TR to re-familiarise. Go1 Fell on windmill move. then climbed up doing move from rest and grabbing draw. Tried move going for break but greased off as it had started raining.Lowered off. Go2 redpointed to clipping 2nd bolt despite skin screaming. Pulled past to break and led to final move but fell. Short rest then did stopper move. Stripped gear. Quick few goes on Weedkiller trav. Great day.

Delighted with progress on the Oak circuit. Defimitely believe I've moved up a gear. Fingers crossed the real Oak will be dry next weekend.

[tomtom]

Thanks for kicking off Shark..

Mn: el Rubiconio.. Usual failures, though strangely enjoyed it
fri: a short trip to the peak involved 3.5 hours of driving (bad traffic) but had fun on the arête at Higgar (close ish but now realise I need my lf higher n the arête itself) and the went over to WSS.. really enjoyed trying out some new sequences. My shoulders are still aching so it was a good workout!
Sa sun, trip to Hereford for golden wedding.. Booze food etc..

[205Chris]

M: Busy
T: Foundry. Bouldering on the wave.
W: Works. Bouldering on the comp wall then a few circuit problems
T: Nada
F: Cheedale. Last ditch attempt to tick The Sea..... which has been something of a nemesis for me. Bolt to bolt it and feel strong, go for the redpoint but fail reaching to the slot at the top of the groove. My belayer suggests a slight refinement in foot position for the crux and I go for what will be my last attempt as time is running out. This time there's no mistake, grasp the slot, pull through onto the headwall and there's no way I'm dropping it now. Nemesis ticked and one of the best pitches in the dale.
S: Stag weekend in Lake District
S: Back from the Lakes and home board session.

Well pleased to tick The Sea....I've had quite a productive few weeks sport climbing since ticking Powerplant but now it's time to sit back and patiently await the call of the grit and get strong for Font in November. Can't wait.

[nai]

stg (sep/oct) - this n that
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer

m
T - max hangs
w
T max hangs. from nowhere manage to hang the low slots and 45s.  good session. 4x15 pullups.
F max hangs - bit rushed and a bit tired, not as good as thursday but ok.
s
S max hangs - another pleasing session

busy week so pleased to get four short sessions in, also did a few short core sessions but forget when.  Amazed as always at how quickly the fingers start to get it back..

new vstg is to one arm the big middle slot.

[Luthor]

STG  - ...
MTG  - ... new goals needed
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - Shoulder / elbow exercises
Tue     - Works: Bouldering
Wed     - Works: Bouldering
Thurs   - Works: Bouldering
Fri     - rest
Sat     - Shoulder / elbow exercises. Bouldering at Burbage South edge
Sun     - Works: Bouldering with kids

[Muenchener]

STG:  Frankenjura 6b
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Unexpectedly good late season weather means that I reach my STG for alpine multipitch sport (>=6a, >= 10 pitches)

M:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes: 7 x 7 (tried seven UIAA VII routes; got up three of them)
W: yoga
T: Wall, Thalkirchen with son. Mostly belaying/spotting/coaching, but also some bouldering & another set of pre-Frankenjura system board pocket-pulling.
F:
F: Berchtesgadener Alps, Sternschnuppe: 11 pitches VI+/A0
S: biergarten

[shark]

F: Berchtesgadener Alps, Sternschnuppe: 11 pitches VI+/A0
S: biergarten, 5 pitchers

[Muenchener]

F: Berchtesgadener Alps, Sternschnuppe: 11 pitches VI+/A0
S: biergarten, 5 pitchers

Only 2 actually. I have sadly neglected my training for this year's Oktoberfest.

[i_a_coops]

M - Sennen, granite trad. Got on a couple of awkward jam fests, including the hardest HVS offwidth I've ever done.
T - Had a look at some new route potential on an amazing looking cliff on the Atlantic Coast. Sadly the rock turned out to be utter choss.
W - Cheesewring, quarried granite sport cha'mone. Rain and seepage made things hard, but I managed a 7a+ link up of Rampage and Hot Lava. It felt a lot harder than 7a+, but I did have to dyno past some wet holds. Sideways. In the dark.
T
F
S
S

I love Cheesewring, are there any other granite quarries with bolts?

[Fultonius]

Frankly, a horrific week!

STG: F7b onsight, El Chorro in Mid OCtober.

Mon: NOthing, recovering from epic ride on Saturday. Everything hurts: Achillies, left knee, neck (weird twinges and trapped nerve shit going on).
Tuesday: Missed a training session due to work night out changing from thursday to tonight, too much  which then scuppered any chance of trainging on:
Wed: Nowt.
Thursday: Wall session, high volume of boulder problems up to V5, focussing on applying power through feet and climbing dynamically, but in control. Finished off with a few pumpy circuits.
Fri-Sun: Sailing with GF and parents. Managed to drop a 5kg perspex sheet on my big toe, which is now blacka nd sore. Arse!

D- must try harder.

[Three Nine]

There's another one being developed just round the corner.

[tommytwotone]

M - nowt
T - board session, leg still painful but climbed through it
W - Depot, warmed up on easy problems but leg v painful so just did some hanging / skipping
T - Mum up to visit from Devon, out for dinner
F - house viewing in evening, out for dinner
S - house viewings during the day, out for dinner
S - walk around Yorkshire Sculpture Park, pub quiz in the evening

My crocked hip is still pretty, well, crocked...to be honest my Mum's visit was pretty well timed as at least it's forced me to rest for a few days. At the physio tonight so hoping a bit of diagnosis / treatment will go some way to sorting it.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (5 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder thera-band work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (update: knee is feeling good, just need to slowly increase the milleage).

M: Ended up going out for a friends leaving do, once again I didn't manage to get home at a reasonable time.
T: Hungover
W: Bouldering at NCC
T: Some kind of man-flu
F: see above
S: Felt a bit better so did 3xDb complex, easy BM session, core & 5m run - Kill or cure!
S: Felt much better - Bouldering at Birchens and Gardoms N. - should have done MR-LH but ran out of energy, did manage a 6C slopey mantle problem.

Quite pleased to have managed any climbing/training this week, Both MR-LH and the mantle thing had felt hard a year ago so pleased to get one ticked and the other should go next time.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: 7b+ in a session (pushup?), 7c (indecent from the ground, half decent?)...

M: Short 1 arm workout - 10 x assisted 1 armers L/R
T: Bouldering @ The works - Sacked off all pretence of it being a structured training session and just did a shedload of hard(ish) problems and enjoyed myself - Properly trashed at the end so must have got summat right.
W: Rest
T: Planned to do AeroCap but got stuck into new pink circuit and polished off remaining wasps from Tuesday - Actually enjoyed climbing! Trashed again!
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Raven Tor with the Shark - TR'd indecent to warm up, Pushup was busy so decided to try indecent from the ground, after a bit of faffing worked out a sequence. Linked to the indecent undercuts - Felt good. Next go led up to move before undercuts then stupidly back clipped meaning I had to hang and sort it out, dogged up the rest taking time to work out sequences etc. Looking like it's a goer!!   

A really good week! Not particularly sucessful but really feeling like it's finally coming together. Got out, found a project and enjoyed climbing again. Bouldering seems to be coming back, PE feels ok, fingers not too shabby, psyched!... Just gotta pray that it stays dry long enough to actually tick stuff now!

This week: penultimate week of Tommy's program, gotta try and fit this in around working away from Thursday and being in London at the weekend.

:D

[webbo]

Mon. Deadhanging session abit stiff from yesterdays climbing and weights.
Tue. Rockcity repeated some things worked and linked a v6 2nd go.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Repeated things worked and linked another v5 which seemed to strain my back between my shoulder blades.
Fri. Nothing back feels stiff/sore
Sat. Shopping in York with the missus.Buy some night attire just in case I have to stay in hospital over night next week.Weights and deadhanging.
Sun Rockcity took a long while to warm up.Repeated a few things then worked a couple of problems managing all the moves.Bike 1 hour.
Last full week before elbow op.

[fried]

Monday - nothing
Tuesday - first indoor session for a long time, very strange to be climbing on something with holds again. Things seemed that bit easier. Lots of new stuff to try, so just went round cherry picking.

Wednesday - Thursday - Odd bits of shoulder stuff.
Friday - Indoor again. Started to look at a few more difficult probs. More weights/ shoulder stuff.
Saturday - Sunday - Odd bits of shoulder stuff.

Very happy to have managed to climb with only a two day rest without some kind of shoulder problem, so maybe all the physio stuff is paying off.

Stg - Stop getting blown off Font 4cs

Weight - 74.7kg

[shark]

Last full week before elbow op.

Good luck

[webbo]

Last full week before elbow op.

Good luck

I'm more worried about the post op stuff.I'm not supposed to drive for two weeks which I guess means no upper body training as well.I think it is about 5 years since I've had more than 5 days without climbing,finger boarding or weights.

[duncan]

Goals

M: The Arch - 5 mins. gentle play
T: nothing
W: short run
T: The Arch - 15 mins.
F: brief session houlder stability stuff
S: Fairlop.  1 hour gentle bouldering to 'Font. 5' / chasing the lad. 
S: proper session shoulder stability stuff

3 weeks off due to weird rib-chest tweak and slight dip in syke.  Didn't feel too sore after Saturday, so gentle training can resume.  Feel reasonably fluent on rock/concrete but weak after a summer of intermittent trad.  My climbing season is ending and it's time to start a new training cycle.  Firstly, get accustomed to the idea of training then lay the foundations with some basic strength work.  New STG: do a pull-up?! 

Fairlop is remarkably good fun for some lumps of concrete in Essex (...I must be desperate) and the lad showed an encouraging amount of interest for 10 minutes or so.

Last full week before elbow op.

Good luck

+1

[SA Chris]

are there any other granite quarries with bolts?

Longhaven, up near Boddam.

[tunaficiency]

M: tired after alps
T :beastmaker back three repeaters, reebok grip strengthener repeaters, back 2 repeaters with foot on chair. max hang 45's manage 8 secs then 5 and 5. Then 17 pull ups on good rungs.( left ring finger a bit sore crimping)
W: gorge try love in the time of cholera do the crux moves for the first time havent linked the whole thing yet
T: rest
F: rest
S: gorge sopping wet so try mental extension do about 10 of the moves absolutely ace problem 
S: gorge bone dry go figure, try love in the time of, feel tired and skin trashed
lost 6 pounds after alps now 9st 12
GOOD LUCK WEBBO WITH YOUR ELBOW OP