[shark]

Weight 11.5-7/8

M. 6am return to Sheffield from airport on recovery truck
T. AM Weights various and deadhanging. Eve Edge with Poppy and did some campusing. At home reacquainted with Oak circuit in Shed
W. Eve Shed. AeroPower session based on Oak circuit
T.  AM. Biggish fingerboard/rock ring session with new counterweight setup in office. Eve Shed Attempt at AeroCap in Shed but got pumped to quickly on second set so sacked it off
F. Eve Shed. AeroPower session based on Oak circuit then drove to Devon with family
S. AM 6K jog with Poppy on Park Run at Killerton. Then lots of drinking and eating at parents golden wedding celebration.
S. PM Stopped off at Brean on way back North for a couple of hours. First visit. Did a 6c and 2x 7a's. Good family venue.

Main training focus is on doing the Oak circuit in the shed with reducing rests. Currently split into 5 blocks of 5/6 moves with 15 secs rest between blocks with a session being 4 attempts with 10mins rest between sets. Hope to reduce rest to 10 secs this week. Malham next weekend - can't wait.   

[Muenchener]

STG:  Frankenjura 6b
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

In which I get acquainted with Zillertal bouldering grades, where 6A+ takes one or two attempts but 6B is desperate.

M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Inspired by the climbing dads thread: short but good late evening bouldering session after putting son to bed. Started Frankenjura campaign with some (very careful) two-finger pocket exercises on system board.
T: yoga
W: Wall, Thalkirchen with son. Mostly belaying/spotting/coaching, but also managed to get in some worthwhile attempts on hard boulder projects & another set of system board pocket-pulling.
T: Boys' Bonding Trip with my son. High ropes course in Garmisch. Pretty active rest, plus I *hate* jumping off the platform for zipwire descents, so it probably has some value as fall training.
F: Boys' Bonding Trip Day Two, Zillertal. Morning rafting, afternoon bouldering, Sundergrund. I have a look at the iconic Hotel California and learn that 7B+ is a long way off.
S: Bouldering, Zillertal Klausenalm.
S:

[andybfreeman]

Goals, sadly, as before

Tu - TCA after work. Warmed up on new white 6c circuit. Few laps of the blue 7a+. Tried to link 2 laps but failed about 3 moves into the 2nd! Got spanked, more so than last week, by the red. Did a few problems but felt low on power. Did mange to finish on a high by doing one of rory's new green problems after working out a slightly less brutal start

W - TCA in the evening. Circuits including numerous laps of the blue and working links on the red

Th - Short session of circuits improving links and sequence on hard red circuit and laps of the blue. Feeling confident for the weekend; getting loads back even on poor rests and getting better at figting when boxed. Osteo session to kneed out some minor tweaks, I've noticed massive improvements in 3 treatments.

F - rest

Sa - Ansteys. Put clips up cider soak, got the move to the sika every go but had to refine sequence from there to the pocket. Did laps on the top section with no falls

Su - Warm up= ground to 2nd clip, break to break then break to top. Then the sun came out and it got very hot. Took 4 goes to do the move to the right sloper below clip 2! Good rest then decent burns; ground to sika but blew right foot move up before going for pocket. Linked from break into top section but heel popped as i went for the sloper. Break to top. Had another go but repeated the same. If it's going to go i need to get the moves through the middle right first time; insufficient margin for error! Struggled to get much back in the rest in the top break so clearly I'd overestimated my ability to recover; got a few % back but not quite enough. Started to rain on my last go so the finishing jug was wet and i slipped out; massive faff to clip stick the rope into the top to strip the route.

A slightly frustrating weekend but well pleased to make significant improvements on last year in terms of links and success rates on individual moves. The middle section now feels easy if i get the sequence right and move fast but accurately but desperate if i sketch. I'd kidded myself that I'd be able to have a shake at the first break but the match is too fiddly so i realise that to succeed i need to go fast from bolt 1 to the pocket and then I'll need to be able to milk the rest in the top break a tiny bit more

Font next week but i still have 2 more potential ansteys weekends at the end of September so I'll be going back and focussing my training on recovery.

Weight, average of 64.1 last week but 65.1 this morning (shouldn't have had chips on Saturday night or chocolate for breakfast on sunday!)

[tomtom]

T: Cliff. No psyche. put boots on, warmed up, put boots away, went and had a coffee...
T eve: Punishment pressups and leg raises
T: Cliff. Much better.. flashed the usual 7's up by DWR, first time I've done that in a few months.. felt sharp.
F>Sun: Wedding, drinking, eating (nice asado cooked on a bedframe..)

Getting better... but very slowly...

[nai]

Nothing to report from week 80.

stg (sep/oct) - some trad, some technique work (bouldering), some training
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim, maybe some trad grit
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer

m
T - hour at Bowden, tried Dog Eat Dog, had my hand on top a few times but kept bottling the topout, 4yr old spotter didn't inspire confidence
w
t - first morning on the scales after holiday, +4lb which is back to "normal" weight.
F - Dies Irae and Inquisitor at Stoney, nice.
s - cycled Monsal trail with kids in trailer (about 30kg), about 23km.  Few bodyweight exercises evening, could feel the tyre on my waist doing situps.
s - a few max hangs then 12 sets 1-3-5 x30 moves, felt better than expected given the recent downtime, etc.

daughter has just started school on half days so it's morning sessions on the beastmaker and garage board for the next couple of weeks.  Very stg is to hang the bottom BM slots unaided and keep up the enduro work.

[Fultonius]

Not a lot to report this week as I ended up going offshore Wed- Fri. Wt. 75-76kg.

Mon:Nowt
Tuesday: Routes and Boulderign at Transition, aberdeen. More fun/performance than training. Flashed a V4/5 and Various V3s, didn;t try anything harder. Flashed a load of routes up to 7a. Failed on a 7a+ near the end. Got a 7b second go which is quite good. Need to get the mileage up if I'm going to manage many onsights on the trip thouigh. Footwork/route reading is still poor.
Wed-Fri: Nowt.
Saturday:Rode/Pushed/Stuggled up the West Highland Way on my bike. A nice wee training ride... 
Sun: Eat/Sleep/Eat/Recover/Sleep some more.

I think recovering from the the bike ride might wipe out any training/climbing for a few days. 

[Three Nine]

Andy - one day on the route worth 100 at TCA in terms of getting it done. Make sure you're down there both days on your remaining last two weekends if i were you!

[Luthor]

STG  - ...
MTG  - finish off (or start?) a few sport projects / start gearing up for bouldering
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - Went for a walk / boulder / picnic with kids to Birchen Edge. Managed to do 'Kiss my Arsee' - great little 7a problem
Tue     - nothing
Wed     - nothing
Thurs   - nothing
Fri     - Bouldered at the Works
Sat     - nothing
Sun     - Shoulder\Elbow streches. Took kids to the Works, managed to climb a bit too.

[tommytwotone]

Quite a mixed week for me...

M: 5 mins skipping, Depot session, prison workout from 10, 5 mins skipping
T: Board session, really good one despite feeling shattered from previous day's efforts
W: Nowt, rest and a very tasty Spag Bol
T: Depot for comp problems, going well until I was rocking up on left foot, stretching for a hold and a sudden, audible (to the point where people stood around me heard it!) crunch / popping sound came from inside my left hip.

Tried to carry on but was pretty clear I've done something relatively major, think it's a hip flexor.

F: Sister up, dinner, Corrine Bailey Rae concert in the evening. Therpautic beer and dancing.
S: Bingley festival - more self-medication
S: Bingley festival again, followed by a better than average showing in the local pub quiz

So another injury to deal with, pretty restrcitive as I can't even go to gym / run to compensate for lack of climbing. Currently I can't climb stairs without pain so I think it'll be campusing or nowt for a while...

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

M: driving home from font
T: 4.5m run, good core workout
W: bouldering at NCC
T: 3xDB complex, 5m run
F: rest
S: bouldering at Cratcliffe, did loads of easy stuff and then a 7A (low slung). Should have done this in the first session months ago but came off the final move, almost did the same today! Had a go at the 7A+ to the left of P-Crack, all the moves felt OK, although not keen on the landing beneath!
S: 3xDB complex, BM: pull-ups, 5m run - was going to do a max hangs session but elbows felt sore so sacked it.

Good to get another 7A even if it is a soft one! Knee seems to be improving, first week with three moderate length runs without pain, just need to avoid upping the mileage too quickly.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: So far off where I hoped to be right now that I don't know anymore. Suppose another 7b+ is doable this season, not getting on any 7c's or harder right now (hoped to at least have some moves dialed on something by now but no!) and with the evenings closing in and life and bloody weather thwarting my plans at every turn I don't know how likely that goal is.

M: Some easy grit bouldering with the boy.
T: PE session @ The Works - 40 x move circuits. Felt better than last week but still had skin issues after set 4 so moved to foot on campussing for last 4 sets (50 hand movements with a virtual clip every 10 moves).
W: Few assisted 1 armers on bar - Literally 15mins all told.
T: Rest.
F: Drive to Chapel Head Scar PM - Lead up Tufa King Hard to put clips in and let Butters TR. Took him a while to TR and as forcast seemed OK decide to wait til morning to get on objectives - TR'd TKH a couple of times with no rest.
S: Woke up to find it shitting down and a layer of clag so thick that you couldn't even see the crag from the carpark - S*itty f*cking titsacks!!! Hung around thinking "it might be dry" before accepting defeat and driving to Kilnsey. Warmed up putting clips in Direct Flight and only a slight misjudgement on the position of a hold meant that I lobbed - Interesting! RP'd it easily next go. Had a go on 50 for 5 cruised to the last moves then got shut down... Worked it out (eventually) but didn't attempt a RP due to general drizzle induced apathy and dejection with disjointedness of route (probably unfounded). Planned to stay in van again and climb at Kilnsey next day but after a brief discussion decided against sitting out a wet night only to climb at a crag only one of us was psyched for... Drove back to Sheff and were rewarded with Timmy Taylors and Pictish on in the Sheaf - Good Call! 
S: Planned for the cornice - Ended up in the Works for nearly 4 hrs. Did plenty of long spottys and assorted pinks and wasps, worked out moves on brown 7c circuit and did a fair few links, nice! Finished with foot on campus session - Destroyed.

Did quite a bit all told but so f*cking pissed off with the weather throwing a spanner in the works on my last lakes trip this year!!! Good to actually tick summat again at Kilnsey though so it's not all bad. Did a fair bit of training too and feeling it today so gonna take that as a positive. Kinda feeling despondent though as what's the point of training when not getting on the objectives!

This week: Find some psyche and get on summat!

:D

[shark]

Had a go on 50 for 5 cruised to the last moves then got shut down... Worked it out (eventually) but didn't attempt a RP due to general drizzle induced apathy and dejection with disjointedness of route (probably unfounded).

If it's any consolation I've always been shut down on this

[Duncan Disorderly]

Had a go on 50 for 5 cruised to the last moves then got shut down... Worked it out (eventually) but didn't attempt a RP due to general drizzle induced apathy and dejection with disjointedness of route (probably unfounded).

If it's any consolation I've always been shut down on this

  Sure you'd cruise it now that you're a beast

I think if you go right hand to crozzly shizz first rather than left up to good sidepull first it's probably ok(ish) - just wish I'd figured this out before trashing myself trying all kinds of duffness...

:D

[andybfreeman]

Andy - one day on the route worth 100 at TCA in terms of getting it done. Make sure you're down there both days on your remaining last two weekends if i were you!

I know and that's the plan already! Had looked at pushing font back to go again this weekend butmove ferry times and I'm taking others who want the full week in font.

[fried]

A brief tour of a couple of easy Font circuits I've never done. Combined with some mushroom foraging.

Monday - nothing
Tuesday - nothing
Wednesday - Orange circuit at Avon, plus played around on a couple of slabs, but it's really too hot, and after a couple of weeks on grit I can't remember how to climb on rock with no friction .
Thursday - Rain, so had a walk around Rocher des princes.
Friday - Yellow circuit at Hautes plaines.
Saturday - Slept badly went to Petit bois which was humid and couldn't get the motivation to do anything much.
Sunday - Rain again, walk around Rocher Saint-Germain.

Weight down to a sleek 75.0kg

Mushrooms found :- 2 very small ceps.

[Falling Down]

M/T - Walking
W/T/F - three big work days in London
S - Nowt
S - Did some of the routes on the bridge at New Mills Torrs, fell off one of the harder ones

Another mad week at work ahead and then Provence/Alefroide on Sunday for 8 days.  No objectives other than to relax and go climbing.

[heelhookofglory]

M: Bouldering at Ousal
T: Shoulder & elbows // Bouldering at Cottage // Beastmaker 3 x B2 assisted with 4FO
W: Shoulders & elbows // Rest
T: Shoulders & elbows // Bouldering at The Roaches working weaknesses
F: Beastmaker session: 5 x B2 paired
S: Bouldering at Burbage South Valley working weaknesses // Shoulders & elbows
S: Great session at AW Stoke working weaknesses and treated myself to overhangs & cave fun

Took an awkward fall yesterday and might have re-injured my A2 on right hand ring finger by over-gripping just before the fall. Also, didn't realise it at the time but, today my back and neck are mega stiff so I'm guessing I jolted those too. Will ride it out for a day or two to see what the damage is. Can always work shoulders & elbows plus get on some slabs to work my weakness in the meantime. Might have to cancel my days off at the end of the week.

[webbo]

Mon.Bike 2 hours
Tue. Nothing.
Wed.Nothing.
Thu.Rockcity struggling kept with it and eventually did a problem I'd dismissed as impossible for me.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Leeds wall on way to visit my mum.just repeated stuff really hot.
Sun. Rockcity new problems did 3 v5s flashed 2.Did all the moves of some harder ones.Some of them seem rather long.Dumbell weight session later on.

Seemed to do more eating and drinking than usual.Need to get my act together.

[nik at work]

Planned to stay in van again and climb at Kilnsey next day but after a brief discussion decided against sitting out a wet night only to climb at a crag only one of us was psyched for...

You should have kept the faith, Sunday is always the day to go to Chapel . We certainly found dry rock.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Planned to stay in van again and climb at Kilnsey next day but after a brief discussion decided against sitting out a wet night only to climb at a crag only one of us was psyched for...

You should have kept the faith, Sunday is always the day to go to Chapel . We certainly found dry rock.

After looking at the forecast for Sunday I can't say I wasn't tempted but the chances of getting Butters to drive back up to Chapel Head on the off chance was about err.... Nil

Hope you had a good day.

:D

[205Chris]

STG: Enjoy last weekend out for a few weeks
MTG: Font in November
LTG (next year): Thormen's Moth & Arch Enemies

M: Cheedale - See last week's entry.
T: Short deadhanging session
W: Foundry. Got spanked by the wave. I need to spend more time here (I know I said this last year but I mean it this time).
T: Nada
F: Cheedale. Hoped to finish off the Sea is a Brown Paper Bag. Failed to remember my beta for the lower wall then finally sorted a sequence but fell off at the top of the groove. Bit frustrating as this was a nemesis from last year but I was feeling pretty rubbish.
S: Long Tor Quarry to try the Boltest (another nemesis). Bolt to bolted it then worked it once on a top rope. Barely managed to string 2 moves together. Went for a redpoint (with no real pressure as I wasn't expecting to do it) and managed to pull off a skin of my teeth, power-scream-on-the-crux ascent. Pretty happy  . Quote from the other climbers in the quarry "I didn't think you were going to do that as you looked nowhere near it on your last attempt"
S: Thor's Cave. Hoped to tick Fenris & Midgard but took a while to figure out the beta for Fenris before redpointing it so ran out of time for anything else. Psyched to return though.

Good end to the summer's sport climbing as I expect I'll be back to bouldering when my weekends free up again. Good to clear up an old project, frustrated not to bag the Sea. There's a small chance of a Friday afternoon out for a last ditch attempt if the weather holds though. Fingers crossed.

[tunaficiency]

been away so 4 weeks in one :
week 1 ;
m rest
t bike
w did float like a butterfly static 7a
t rest
f cant remember
s dinbren onsighted a 6 b+ with spaced rusty bolts and worked hot stuff 7a felt nails
s walk at dinbren try and find guide book and down jacket no joy
week 2:
m
t
w
t
f saffress do 2 5c a 6a and a 6c second go
s saffress do a brilliant 5c  l 'arechee
s briancon do a great via ferrata la croix de toulouse 600 m and a small peak
m multi pitch 200 m 6a run out and tough for the grade attacked by giant ants toulouse to win
t go to rocher baron migraine second kate on 5c and 2 6a
w casse de prelles sector 4 onsight 6a 6a+ 6b and 6b+ (great area)
t casse de prelle sector 1 onsight 6a + 6b do 6b+ 2nd go take a 5m fall on 1st and a 6a + and 6a

f  queryas walk to 2400m with gear camp killer
s get up late 2 hr walk in do 5 pitch route science friction mica shist slab, run out no holds 5b .200 m then 300m  scrambling to 3100 m la taleinte. 15 hour day hit the wall after 10
s

[i_a_coops]

M-W: nothing

T: Dancing Ledge, did the direct start version of Prophets of Rage via some seriously stupid upside down toehooking. Shame that it's a bit eliminate and doesn't have it's own bolts. Still, a grade whore like myself will put up with a lot for a 7b+ tick.Got totally schooled on a steep 7a+ (no tick after 4 attempts), failed to flash a very obvious 7a, then failed to onsight a 6c+.
 
F - still onsighting like a spanner (had to fight like a honey badger on a 6b+ ffs) so decided to redpoint something, unexpectedly did a 7c with massive holds second go. YYFY!

Weekend: nothing.

Finger still making strange noises when I flex it sometimes but it's finally getting noticeably better

[tunaficiency]

following on from my last post:
sunday: ranger tells us your only supposed to stay one night in a PARC regional and that theres ibex right on the summit 100 kg with 4 foot horns. walk down
m : go to a marmot sanctuary where there is conglomerate too hot do 5c and 6a
then to st crepin
t: attempt to do la 3rd generation too hot go and do brill slabs 5c 6a 6a 6a
w: get up at 4 30 to do la 3rd generation kate onsights the 6b 1st pitch before the suns up then i do 6a second pitch kate does scramble but too high so my 6b pitch is a 50 foot 6a solo traverse probably the most dangerous thing ive done. kate does a great 6a pitch then i do really steep 6c traverse hardest onsight 400 ft up kate does a great
6a slab pitch but to the wrong belay so my 6a pitch is more like 6b+ and about 45 metres long managed to onsight the whole thing hardest multi pitch td+
t :meant to be rest day but end up going for 6 hour walk up to 2700 m
f: climbing near st crepin too hot do a 6b onsight
s : walk up to the tete de la draye 2700m do some brill bouldering
s: attempt la calcorde kate ill so abb off do sit start to great compression problem
m: do calcorde great slab climbing d + 200m 4 abbs then more bouldering
t: walk on to the glacier blanc up to 3100 m and back 12 hrs
w : off to saffress again
t : do la belle fissure 6a and kate does a great crack climb 6a attempt a 7b nails
come to the ecrins a land of opportunity and adventure