[slackline]

I too don't use a campus board, but I get the impression that a "set" will be hyper-variable, so perhaps if its possible allow people to enter 1-n1-n2-n3-n4-ni x Y reps leading with left/right/dyno.

[csurfleet]

Hmm, not sure I follow there tbh slackster!

[heelhookofglory]

With regards to grade-mapping I spent quite a bit of time a few months ago trying to create a table which would help with finding training weaknesses. For example, if your boulder max is 8A but you only climb F7a on bolts then it would suggest a lack of endurance and then go on to suggest workouts to help combat this (very raw example but you get the point).

There were quite a few people involved including a few training guru's from the other channel along with Tom Randell and Robbie Phillips, who all added excellent input. It's still far from complete, though, as things started to get really complicated when we started talking about AnCap, AeroCap etc., workouts and how each workout would tie into the chart and affect climber's grades etc.

Chris, I'll show you the conversations we had and a working version of the chart when we meet up. It might make things easier (or more difficult!).

[slackline]

Well, we'd all like to be able to do 1-5-9, but thats a long way off for most, so rather than hard-coding in all possible combinations why not have it configured to allow users to specify their own sets.

Thus you could have...

Rep	Person 1	Person 2	Person 3
Leading Hand	Left	Right	Left
Feet on?	Yes	No	Yes
Start / n0	1	1	1
n1	2	5	3
n2	3	9	5
n3	4	5	7
n4	5	1	-
n5	6	5	-
n6	7	9	-
n7	8	5	-
n8	9	1	-

Basically there are waaay too many permutations for you to hard code so allowing the user to say I've done n_x moves on campus board and then to specify what each of those are would be more flexible and accommodating (maybe, although it might be a nightmare to code).

[csurfleet]

Aaaaah, right!

Yeah I'd already figured that people could enter their own rung combinations, sorry that wasn't clear. You're right about leading with either hand though - I'd forgotten about that one, and the feet on bit is also good. I'll get them added into the model

Steve, that sounds great we'll get into it on Sunday.

[Grubes]

Steve,
What ever you do don't go to his house ...

[esox]

That makes sense too. Unfortunately thats going to get even more difficult to calculate when you factor in things like fingerboard workouts too :S

Got the list of workout types (and the underlying entities) pretty much finalised now, I'm open to comments on things I've missed though:
- Fingerboard workouts
- Route climbing workouts (covers roped and unroped to deal with routes, laps, circuits and traverses)
- Boulder workouts (covers both single problem sets and NxN style sets)
- Weights workouts (all resistance stuff inc body weight)
- Aerobic workouts

Getting some common queries coded over the next couple of days, then got a potentially great meeting at the weekend which may mean things speed up somewhat

Should stretching/mobility training be a workout type too? It does have significant effect on whole training. It doesn't have to be complicacted though, maybe just type and time used for it.

[csurfleet]

Steve,
What ever you do don't go to his house ...

You should see my new bathroom. I installllllllled it and everything! Also, the filth wizard moves out next week - payrise from work just about covers his rent. I'm a happy man :D You coming to the wall tonight btw fatboy?

Should stretching/mobility training be a workout type too? It does have significant effect on whole training. It doesn't have to be complicacted though, maybe just type and time used for it.

Makes sense. I'll add it to the 'to do' list. Which is growing faster than I'm ticking things off it!

[Grubes]

nah not tonight ..  plus how can you call anyone fat boy at the moment?

[erm, sam]

Just a thought: It would be useful if you could make the training log viewable by others so eg ones coach could review your training etc..

Will you have a planning function with eg a calendar or timeline to plan training phases or what have you, rather than just being able to record what sessions have already happened?

[csurfleet]

The whole coach/student relationship was something I'd considered and I'd hope I'll add that but TBH unless we got a small team of coders on the go you're looking at a couple of years minimum before I got round to it (I'm finding the time for about 5-10hrs a week at the moment). On the other hand it could end up an easy feature, I'll have to see as the app comes together!

The planning function is a definite though, one of the big things I want to do is allow you to visualise your past and future training against standard and customised training plans - like periodised or pyramids or whatever. Thats going to be a big function of the AI stuff - recognising these sorts of patterns and advising you accordingly.

Update: Nowt done the last 5 days, been waiting for a reference manual which is now sat on my desk. Things should happen swiftly this week now

[Grubes]

 

[slackline]

The domain has been registered.

[csurfleet]

Work continues on this and there will be an update in a couple of days. Basically we're nearing the point where I have to decide if I should release a very early beta version with not much in the way of functionality but start getting all the valuable feedback from you guys, or wait a couple more months until it becomes something with enough features to be properly useful to a lot of people and save myself hosting fees.

I haven't forgotten you 

Grubes, I'll bring the lappy round yours later this week if you want a preview look.