[Yossarian]

Still super inspired by this thread, and in the process of trying to plan some sort of Euro trip this summer. In the same spirit, but incorporating a more modest grade and level of commitment.

I wondered if any of you had done much in the Bregaglia, particularly the Bondasca valley? Piz Badile is the thing that's been mentioned previously, but I'm quite interested in some of the stuff near the Sciora hut. There appears to be some cragging up there, and also some slightly longer things like Via Di Mezzo on Torre Innominata (10 pitch 6a+) on clean granite without any snowy complications.

Any intel would be much appreciated...

[nik at work]

On a similar vein...
Any suggestions for a ~10 pitch route, climbable in June, around the 6c/7a mark, with a relatively non-epic walk-in, that is in striking distance of someone driving from/to the uk to/from Briacon? Obviously it needs to be a three star classic in a spectacular isolated location with surprisingly convenient parking.

[jwi]

Eh... in Briançon perhaps??? There are tons of stuff in and around the Ecrins. Alas, I have neither the guide books nor the knowledge but some friends did “Ici mieux qu'en face” on Tour Termier and said it was a good 7a with a short boulder problem on the 7b pitch.

https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/175360/fr/tour-termier-ici-mieux-qu-en-face

[jwi]

otherwise Fontainebleau is somewhere in the middle. Do a circuit. 

[Fultonius]

On a similar vein...
Any suggestions for a ~10 pitch route, climbable in June, around the 6c/7a mark, with a relatively non-epic walk-in, that is in striking distance of someone driving from/to the uk to/from Briacon? Obviously it needs to be a three star classic in a spectacular isolated location with surprisingly convenient parking.

Trad or sport?

[nik at work]

Thanks Jwi it would be fair to say that i know pretty much nothing about climbing in France (apart from Font...).
Fultonius sport ideally, or sport-esque.

[sammo]

Nik - there's a lifetime's worth of good stuff around Briancon at roughly that length and grade range. June is a lovely time to visit too. There are a few suggestions in this post from a few years ago. Of those, Voie des Maitres is the only one with a really short walk in (15 mns ish), but the others all have straightforward approaches (up to a couple of hours for the Dibona).

I'd also highly recommend the Tenailles de Montbrison, which you can see looking down the valley towards L'Argentiere la Bessee from Briancon. I really enjoyed Vol et Volupté (just a couple of pitches at 6b), but I'm sure some of the harder stuff is great too. The approach is pretty straightforward, as long as you're willing to drive your car along a rough track for a few kilometres.

Yossarian - the Piz Badile is great. Obviously there's the classic N Face route (Voie Cassin), but also Another Day in Paradise, which is bolted and very popular.

I haven't climbed in the Bondasca Valley much, but Val di Mello isn't too far away and could be worth considering if you're in the region for a while (again, a few suggestions here).

These are all really beautiful areas - enjoy! 

[nik at work]

Jwi had a proper look at your suggestion and it seems pretty bang on so thanks for that 
Sammo top information thanks 

[Yossarian]

Sammo - thanks for your suggestions. I have the Mellor PDF guide thing which includes Another Day in Paradise. That does look really good. I've also just discovered the Kasper Pillar on the Ago Di Sciora which looks relatively straightforward and in another amazing setting.

I think we're going to have to be quite flexible depending on the weather - more time there if it's good, and if not we'll try somewhere else.

The Ecrins suggestions are really interesting too - the Tenailles de Montbrison particularly. We have about 10-12 days, so might add that to the list of options.

[mde]

I wondered if any of you had done much in the Bregaglia, particularly the Bondasca valley? Piz Badile is the thing that's been mentioned previously, but I'm quite interested in some of the stuff near the Sciora hut. There appears to be some cragging up there, and also some slightly longer things like Via Di Mezzo on Torre Innominata (10 pitch 6a+) on clean granite without any snowy complications.

Some further routes that in the Bregaglia region that have not been mentioned:

Cuore di Ferro on Bügeleisen (lower part of Pizzi Gemelli), 14 pitches, 6c. Impressive face, clean granite, good slabby climbing. The parts 6b and harder are reasonably bolted, quite a few runouts in the 5c/6a terrain. Small rack required. Quick abseil descent.

Hofmeister Jubiläum on Torre Innominata (left of the Sciora Group), 9 pitches, 6c. Cool and demanding route on nice rock. Bolts where required, small rack necessary. Quick abseil descent.

Via Diretta Integrale on Sciora di Fuori, 22 pitches, 6c. Classical route to an impressive peak. Hardest bit is short and can be aided, mostly moderate climbing in the 5a-6a range. Long and tricky alpine descent.

Piodakante on Punta Pioda, 1000m, 5c. Long and mostly easy climbing, best way to get down is by abseiling.

In case the weather is not sufficiently stable, there is also some worthwhile multipitch climbing around Chiavenna. See this website for an overview and topos: http://www.campingacquafraggia.com/climbindex_en.htm. I for example enjoyed Gundam & Tatiana on Sench di Dalo (14 pitches, 6c+) very much.

[dunnyg]

Piodakante on Punta Pioda looks incredible!

[Yossarian]

Has anyone got any useful intel / advice about stuff on or near to the Eiger?

I know there's some harder stuff like Deep Blue Sea (7b+ / 11 pitches) but I'm struggling to find much else.

We've been toying with the idea of trying to include a visit into our summer trip, maybe a bit of the west flank, the Rostock via ferrara, etc. But as much as I want to screw Montaine's wife, waste Pope a little and find Jemima Brown a room for the night, I keep reminding myself it's a teetering pile of choss and we might be better served elsewhere...

[jwi]

Some very good beta from mde in this thread

[Fultonius]

I too am interested in the Eiger routes. But I need some hard-won personal opinion...!

I have a sneaking suspicion that these routes may be more regarded for their proximity to the true north face than their out-and-out quality. If I'm going to put my neck on the line (the Eiger still has loose rock, bad weather etc. etc.) I want to know the route is going to be top notch, with an inspiring line and a great top out. I'm yet to be convinced the Rote Fluhe will provide this?   

Other options would be back on the Grand Cap, or Picos de Europe.

[Yossarian]

The weather sounds like a major issue. Didn't Dean Potter wait about six weeks before conditions were good enough for him to consider doing his solo?

We've added Salbitschijen to the list. West Ridge, plus Hammerbruch and GKB sound good too...

[Yossarian]

This place https://www.mountainproject.com/v/hintisberg/107318024 is actually more what I was looking for in the Eiger area in the first place. Nice views without quite so much hassle / danger / commitment...

[csl]

Does a girdle traverse belong in here? Perhaps a future addition if we can stretch the 'Fairly' to 'extremely'

https://vagabondsdelaverticale.wordpress.com/2017/05/25/la-traversee-de-ceuse/

[duncan]

This looks like it could be good. 4-22 pitches which slighly extends our brief. Fairhead is the only place in the UK to make the cut, which is not unreasonable.

[Yossarian]

Friend in Kenya pointed out that the Cat and Mouse formations featured here are not a particularly long drive from Nairobi...

[Paul B]

This looks like it could be good. 4-22 pitches which slighly extends our brief. Fairhead is the only place in the UK to make the cut, which is not unreasonable.

The topos look to be of the type that turn out to be next to useless when on the route?

[jwi]

This looks like it could be good. 4-22 pitches which slighly extends our brief. Fairhead is the only place in the UK to make the cut, which is not unreasonable.

I flipped through it at Au vieux Campeur. Nice photos, good layout and I cannot fault the choices destinations and routes. I couldn't see the value proposition compared to Parois de Legend (except being written in English). Didn't like the topos much, and I'm pretty confident camptocamp is a better source for info on most routes in the alps and the pyrenees.

[Paul B]

...Parois de Legend (except being written in English).

I asked on Instagram and was told an English version was in the pipeline.

[duncan]

I flipped through it at Au vieux Campeur. Nice photos, good layout and I cannot fault the choices destinations and routes. I couldn't see the value proposition compared to Parois de Legend (except being written in English). Didn't like the topos much, and I'm pretty confident camptocamp is a better source for info on most routes in the alps and the pyrenees.

Thanks.

...Parois de Legend (except being written in English).

I asked on Instagram and was told an English version was in the pipeline.

I asked the man himself this time last year my understanding was he's updating Parois de Legend (Saharan destinations sadly unrealistic for the foreseeable) and there might be an English translation of the new version. I tried to persuade him that Hoy should make the cut but I'm not sure he was convinced.

[petejh]

This looks like it could be good. 4-22 pitches which slighly extends our brief. Fairhead is the only place in the UK to make the cut, which is not unreasonable.

I flipped through it at Au vieux Campeur. Nice photos, good layout and I cannot fault the choices destinations and routes. I couldn't see the value proposition compared to Parois de Legend (except being written in English). Didn't like the topos much, and I'm pretty confident camptocamp is a better source for info on most routes in the alps and the pyrenees.

Had a brief look through this in llanberis last week (joe brown have a copy) and wasn't impressed, although I only read the fair head chapter. Perhaps the rest is better.. Only one route described, a completely inadequate topo (you're not to go somewhere like fairhead without the guide..) and written very much in a 'what we did on our holiday' style and then turned into a coffee table book. Nil point

[duncan]

I've had a closer look at this and broadly agree with the above comments though, typically, Pete is a bit blunt! It's nicely done, some of the photos are good but it's the same people thoughout, a bit like a series of blog posts. It's aiming to inspire rather than guide, and the topos are more or less worthless since, for many of the routes, navigating to the start is not trivial and this is not covered at all. They are there to make sense of the text I imagine. It has lots of good ideas, though no more than this thread.

Martin must be a ukb lurker  since Bears on Toast is featured!