[fried]

Long summer.

Week 1 - Did a half day in the Cantal. Then the rain set in.
Week 2 - Targasonne - lots of easy stuff, but missus was in hospital, so spent most of the time in Toulouse at the hospital.
Week 3 - Missus better, but lots of easy walking.
week 4/5 - peak, loads and loads of east stuff, all over the place, conditions were pretty good, but with kids and dog in tow didn't do anything hard, but had an absolutely brilliant time bimbling about. Everyone loved Robin hood, but Top-roping the kids up diffs at Stanage in a midge storm was less popular.

Even better than that I've just had a week of work postponed, so I'm back to Font on Wednesday for another 10 days.

Hope everyone had a good one.

[tommytwotone]

Sun 29th August?? 

Anyway...another week spent doing more socialising and less training.

M - Depot evening, mostly getting hammered
T - Gym on lunch, did mini "gymathlon", 5k bike, 500m row and 3k run. Out for Guiseley AFC vs Blyth Spartans in the evening, lots of 
W - Travel to Guildford for work, stayed at awful "Premier" Inn overnight
T - Meetings all day, long journey back to Leeds, couple of beers in the evening
F - Depot evening, climbed OK despite accumulation of bad nights' sleep and booze consumption
S - Nowt, had a lie in, a big breakfast and watched Challenge Cup Final
S - Rubicon / Raven Tor - did first lime 7a in Bigger Prize at Rubicon, worked a few things at Raven Tor but mostly got the beatdown

The end of a very hectic few weeks for me, hoping for a pretty sedate September when I'll be able to some progress towards my Font 7b goal for the year!

[fried]

Sun 29th August?? 

Note to self: Do not try to count the number of days in a week after large quantities of wine. 

[Barratt]

My official resignation from Power Club.

Off to see surgeon after holiday, I'm told if it goes as far as an op it's 6 month out... so Power Club feels a long way off.

Maybe we should have a Rehab Club!?

[heelhookofglory]

Good luck Barratt, hope it goes well.

M: Rest
T: Shoulder and elbow PH. 3 x 15 shoulder / 2 x 15 elbow.
W am: Beastmaker session: 3 sets of 6 of assisted B2 7/3.
W pm: Bouldering at AW Stoke. Movement training and quick session on Moon Board.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S am: Trip to The Roaches but it rained, hard. Went home and it hailed. Session at AW Stoke, green circuit warm-up / down with threshold bouldering on woody and Moon board in between.
S pm: Quick 2 sets of B2 repeaters (assisted) on the Beastmaker.
S: Hard session at Churnet followed by a quick blast at Baldstones.

[Luthor]

My official resignation from Power Club.

Off to see surgeon after holiday, I'm told if it goes as far as an op it's 6 month out... so Power Club feels a long way off.

Maybe we should have a Rehab Club!?

Good luck mate

[Luthor]

STG  - ...
MTG  - finish off (or start?) a few sport projects / start gearing up for bouldering
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - rest
Tue     - Raven Tor, worked Toadside and toproped Sardine a few times
Wed     - bouldering at works, stopped early as tweak in left arm
Thurs   - short circuits board session @works lunchtime, light bouldering @works after work
Fri     - rest
Sat     - Bouldering at Curbar. Did Art of Japan, excellent problem but found it very reachy
Sun     - rest

[Muenchener]

STG:  Alpine (sport) rock route >= 10 pitches, >= 6a. Looking unlikely now for this year.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes e.g. Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Feels like nothing much to report. Alpine season (such as it was) over; during school hols mostly taking care of son, nephew & niece; Frankenjura autumn season feels a long way off but isn't, and I am not fit at all in an Fj power endurance way.

M: bike to work 25km
T: bike to work 25km
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. An odd evening: hot, greasy weather, not feeling particularly strong or motivated, flashed two 6bs. Hmm.
T:
F: Bouldering, office gym. Trying to develop a PE circuit.
S: Active rest: about 25km total on bike on various errands; yoga
S: More active rest: easy hillwalk with kids

Next week: off work, boys' quality time with my son. Weather forecast is good, might go to Zillertal for a couple of days.

[Barratt]

Tear in cartilage surrounding main join and where bicep joins. Joint feels weak and "loose". Main issue stopping climbing is associated pain from ac joint which is inflamed.

Had arthogram (spelling?) and MRI. Cortisone injection worked wonders 6 months ago and will hopefully get one popped in again for the short term measure (being able to get back climbing, even with lower aspirations, is the main aim). This however isn't addressing the cause.

Have you got similar problems?

[webbo]

Mon. undecided whether to finger board/weights or go out on my bike.Choose bike only to have some women turn left through me when I'm going straight on.End up on the deck with cuts and bruises.
Tue.Bruised and battered. Manage to finger board and do some weights.Also manage a turbo session 1 hour.
Wed. Finger board with extra 4lb weight.Turbo 1 hour.
Thu. Rockcity just repeat everything I've done before.
Fri. Rest
Sat. Leeds wall. Do 3 reds and all the greens split a tip though.
Sun. Wainstones manage to do the prow 7a which I fell off in 2004 and knackered my ankle.Felt less stressful with 4 pads rather than one.

Pretty good week over training before elbow op still going to plan despite getting knocked off my bike.

[205Chris]

STG: Tick some more sport routes
MTG: Font in November

Mon: Quick circuit session at the works, bit tired after the weekend.
Tue: Nada
Wed: Circuits on garage board
Thu: Nada
Fri: Nada
Sat: Cheedale - warmed up and then wound up at Nettle Buttress. Stuck the clips up Stung, had a bolt to bolt go then redpointed it. Then went and did Long Dead Train. Went over to the Embankment and started working Sturgeon. Got all the moves dialed but didn't have enough energy left for a decent redpoint.
Sun: Cheedale - Planned for the Embankment but rain meant we headed to the cornice. Warmed up then redpointed Armistice Day (which was probably the biggest omission from my Cornice CV to date). Rain stopped so went to the Embankment and ticked Barracuda Bass Sound and then Breamtime (with a suspect chain grab at the top as I wasn't keen on clipping off the mono .).
Mon: Cheedale again. Back to the Embankment for Hungry Eyes, No Hiding Plaice & Prawnography.

Quite pleased with the Bank Holiday weekend route haul, nice to tick some Embankment routes as it's one of the buttresses I've neglected at Cheedale. After next weekend I've got various commitments that mean I'll struggle to get out so hoping to bag a couple more ticks from my 'started but haven't finished' list with a bit of luck.

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before

M - Rest. Did a few press ups, a bit of light core and prescribed shoulder stability exercises at home.

Tu - TCA session after work. Strained tendon felt OK as long as I used a four fingers on my left to spread the load. Did quite a few of the new green hard circuit problems (including karma-lite eliminate) and a few laps of circuits with hardly any issues. Got the official results from the comp last week and found out I got 358 not 360 but still chuffed and still 4th (equal 3rd in overall scores on the bouldering); mental arithmetic was never my strong point!

W - TCA after  work. Warmed up with a couple of laps of Tris' new blue circuit (7a+ ish) without matching at the end. Strained tendon still sore if I put any pressure on just the ring finger but not noticeable using all four fingers. Finished some more green problems but got failed to spanked by the new long roof problem.

Th - TCA after work. Worked the moves on the new red circuit on the steep board, 36 moves with lots of heinous cross throughs - got in 3 but going to be nails (TCA 7c+ ish) to link, feels harder than i remember the cider soak being. Moved onto problems with more greens ticked including a flash. Failed to link either of my two mini-projects on the mothership, despite cruising the starting moves on both.  Split my right index tip on the blue circuit at the end but 2/3 days of decorating and rest to follow so should be fine by Monday (Portland). Super psyched as I have a weekend at Ansteys planned for 3/4 Sept (fingers crossed it doesn't piss down!)

F through Su - Nowt; decorated my flat and ate out for every meal with my dad who came to help. Flat now ready to let, the final thing that needed to be sorted for Oz

M - Afternoon at Portland (cuttings). First time on a rope for a while but did mileage and felt confident. Finished the day with a nice 7a+; The Mouth Waters, felt harder but not my style i.e. vert crimping

Weight = average of 64.5kg for the week. Pleased to maintain losses despite gluttony over the weekend; decorating must burn more calories than I'd expected! 64 dead this morning so should be in primo shape for next weekend

[duncan]

Maybe we should have a Rehab Club!?

I thought half the people here were in the same boat?

After last week's heroics, no-one will be surprised to hear that I am suffering a weird yet typical chest / rib tweak that stops both climbing and limits any hard breathing.  The consequences grovelling up the wide crack on Xanadu I think (is there a harder 5a pitch in the UK?  Some grit obscurity probably but I can't think of anything on a proper route). 

M - S:  Bonding with half-forgotten son.  Some desultory shoulder stability stuff. 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Actually get on something that I want to tick before the summer's out.

M: Took boy to vine boulder - ended up doing 4 x 30 move PE circuits that punped me into the middle of next week!
T: AM - Took boy to Burbage where he crushed, did a few problems. PM - PE circuits @ The Works - Was uber shit! Gave up after 6 circuits @ 5 mins rest and did some wasps.
W: AeroCap on BM - 4 x 150 moves with feet on chair.
T: Disasterous cam belt snappage on car on way to dale - get a tow to garage with dead car, leave it there and finally make it to Rubicon (closer with quick walk in) just before dark - Try Too Old to be Bold: first go put in clips and work out moves, second go try and do all moves but can't see me feet.... Retire to pub.
F: Nowt - But garage do call to tell me that car is miraculously fine (after relieving me on £150 that I obviously didn't need)! Buy lottery ticket;-)
S: Walk along Froggat - Do some easy problems. Don't win lottery;-(
S: Belayer came down with manflu - Missus with (now working again) car..... Buggering bollocking arseburgers! End up @ The Works - 4x PE circuits followed by 4 x foot on campus sets @ 4 mins rest.... Forearms look like popeye;-)

Not a bad week for training but didn't manage to actually climb anything (apart from the odd grit bloc), begining to get truly fed up with this! Still feeling like my PE is shit but keeping on, keeping on... Chapel Head next weekend so hopefully will tick some good (hard - for me) routes.   

This week - PE and hopefully get on summat in the peak!

:D

[shark]

I'm 3 weeks behind due to poor internet access.

Week 78
Weight 11.4-5

M.
T. AM at Tor. with John and boys.  Cool but oddly glassy. 1 x Dog up Rage. Go1 felt fresh and got highish but RH slid off gaston without warning - had plenty in tank Go2 Getting sunny fell going for sidehold. Abbed and drilled holes inc new bolt on BM. Jugged to strip draws. Went Stanage and coached the boys up their first trad leads   
W.
T. Eve. Coaching/benchmarking session with Tommy. Needed 10kg assistance to 1arm hang a small rung for 5 secs on right. On infamous lattice board did 27 moves first go then 31 second go. On lactate sets after did 23 moves (75%) 23moves  10 moves then v.poor. General verdict - more finger stregth and AeroCap required in long term. However, in short term AnCap and AnPower sessions required to prepare for trying the Oak.
F.

Sat 13th - Sun 28th in Mallorca with family   

With temps at 35degrees and a family holiday it was never going to be a hardcore trip. I wanted to try my hand at DWS with the main aim of doing Afroman at Diablo and bag a couple of roped 7b onsights. I took my rock rings along to keep my finger strength up - a bit geeky I know but I got good some good deadhanging gains from this.

It would be fair to say that I struggled initially to come to terms with DWSing but by the end of the trip really started enjoying the routes. Highlights were Bisexual, Princess of Transilvania and Transversal - all 7a. Some days the rock was greasy and/or the swell was big which put us off trying more ambitious stuff at Diablo. Tried to onsight a couple of roped 7b's but one was a sandbag and the other a near miss. Was hoping to try a few more at Castell Santueri but the access was blocked by building work.

Current status

Weighed in at 11.6 this morning so only a few pounds over ideal redpointing weight. Strength seems good - did a 1 arm pullup and decent front lever at the weekend and just had a heavy weights session for first time in ages which also went well. Injury free. So just need to top up on strength, finger strength, AnPower and AnCap for next 2 weeks in preparation for a fresh onslaught on the Oak assuming it's dry then. Psyche high.   

[Fultonius]

I've always wondered if DWS would be pretty scary!

Weight 75 to 76kg - 

Monday: Dumby Session  - Figuring out the moves on Suffix, the new project! Found the crux hard.
Tusday: Another Dumby session, very short though - only had two dogging sessions on suffix! Not much training value, but figyured out the crux so it's a goer!
Wed-Sat: Nothing! Mainly socialising with family as it was my cousin's wedding on Saturday.
Sunday: Ratho - E3 warm up outside, then 8 routes inside. F6b, F6a+, F6a, F6c all onsight, F7b onsight attempt, got to second from last clip and ran out of gas/fluffed the footwork!  Need more mileage!.  Then finished with a F7a failed onsight, F6b and a F6c.

Felt surprisingly battered on monday from the Sunday sesh. Really need to up the weekly mileage in prep for El Chorro.

[tomtom]

crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap crap

W: Slipstones. Nice visit, climbing shit. Made a 2 bouldering mat shelter to sit out a heavy shower.. and climbed shit a bit more.

Nice weekend away in Norfolk. Eating, drinking and eating....

Psyche low. Ability low. Magic powers/dust/drink/injection/combination required.

Pah.

[Falling Down]

M - row, weights, fingerboard
S - row, weights
S - run

No access to climbing or wall this week. Off to Cote D'azur 11th Sept to start climbing again.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

I haven't posted for three weeks as i have been away:

M (8th Aug): rest
T: 3xDB complex, 4m run & core
W: pull-ups and press-ups
T: rest
F: 4m run
S: bouldering at Notts wall
S: Pack and drive south

M: drive to font, quick swim in a river
T: at Dame Jouanne and Elephant
W: Rocher des Potets and JA Martin
T: drive south, nice stay in a chateau, with big meal and lots of wine
F: drive further south to the beach,  swimming
S: still no surf so 5m run and good swim
S: surf at last - 2 sessions

M: surfing - 2 sessions
T: surfing - 2 sessions
W: surfing - 2 sessions
T: early surf, drive north, another nice stay in a chateau, with big meal and lots of wine
F: drive to font, arrive in the rain so no climbing
S: Cul de Chien, 91.1 & Roche aux sabots
S: Isatis, Hautes Plaines & Sablones

Had a great trip to France, the surf was only ok but I surfed quite well for me. Font was great as always, first trip for my girlfriend who luckily (for her) also appreciated it. Just did loads of easy stuff without looking at grades. Need to get stuck in to my aims for the year now.