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How do people train on their home boards? (Read 1620 times)

b3n99

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How do people train on their home boards?
August 22, 2011, 06:53:18 pm
Have had a home board for a while and climb quite a lot on varying cellar boards usually just making up problems and trying projects. Any other specific things people do on their boards to train or do people usually just do the same as me?

p.s my board isn't a systems board

ukclimber101

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#1 Re: How do people train on their home boards?
September 09, 2011, 11:01:38 pm
What your doing now pretty much makes up for 90% of what i do, but when you feel you need to spice things up, I like to do things like huge dyno's and dead hangs on that worse sloper open handed, if you have a friend you climb with, time eachother on the deadhang, makes like more interesting and training that little less daunting, i found also, making routes starting from the top and working your way down can add a whole new dimension to your climbing usuals.

Eddies

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#2 Re: How do people train on their home boards?
September 10, 2011, 02:18:31 am
4x4's=Power Squared!
+ 3 move (max) sets

shark

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#3 Re: How do people train on their home boards?
September 10, 2011, 11:39:05 am
Have had a home board for a while and climb quite a lot on varying cellar boards usually just making up problems and trying projects. Any other specific things people do on their boards to train or do people usually just do the same as me?

p.s my board isn't a systems board

It depends what you are doing it for and what you hope to achieve. What you are doing is probably the most enjoyable way to use a board and it will get you stronger for bouldering. However, if you want to get the most training effect you should be more systematic so each session works all the major movements ie cross throughs, undercuts etc and maybe some foot-on one arm deadhanging. If you want to train greater endurance for long boulder problems or routes you should look at linking problems and inventing circuits of varying intensity and length. If there are specific outdoor projects you want to train for you can move holds around to repliacate moves to work on. Hoqwever, if what you are doing is most motivating for you stick with it. No point doing something more systematic if you hate it though, not least because you probably won't be pulling hard enough! 

 

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