[Muenchener]

One thing I have learned in my sport climbing this year is that I can do technical/cruxy stuff at my current limit  (6b), but lack mental stamina  and/or power endurance on anything sustained. On steep/sustained routes I find the moves straightforward enough, but I can't do more than three or four of them in a row.

In six weeks I have a trip to the Frankenjura planned, where this particular mix of strengths & weaknesses clearly isn't going to get me up anything. What to do? 4x4s?

[ghisino]

full 4x4 might even be too long depending on the problems. The average fj route is 10 to 15 meters.
Don't expect massively overhanging stuff at your grade. You're more likely to find vertical-ish routes with some burly crux.

on the board, i'd work on things around 10-15 moves (either as a circuit or in 4x4 form). Keep the problems burly and try to work open-handed : no crimping, no pinching.
As for the rests and intensity, i'd say 5' and the hardest that allows at least one clean ascent during a session. If you fall, get right back on the next move.
Stop when you start to feel trashed (could be 3 reps, could be 8...depends on you)

Before (not after!) getting on the board i'd do some fingerboarding on three finger pockets, two fingers if you can afford it. 
Two to four sets of 8 pullups with 2' rests and maybe some hangs. (eg one set front 3, one set back 3)
Be careful, keep it hard but confortable, and if in doubt go for more reps rather than smaller holds.


if you climb with a rope, work on clipping as quickly as you can and on climbing fast and aggressive.