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Big(ger) stuff (Read 21089 times)

chummer

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#50 Re: Big(ger) stuff
September 12, 2011, 10:26:23 pm
Not necessarily, you can simply attach an extra sling to the main crab on the belay before clipping your clovehitch onto it then start belaying the second right away. This sling can be adjusted to the correct length with a knot if necessary when the second stops to take gear out or whatever, thus saving faff time, so that when they get up to you they can be instantly clipped in, put you on belay, then you slip your clovehitch off the same crab and start climbing. Their sling is always safely attached behind your clovehitch so no chance of unclipping it when you take the clovehitch out as long as you're carefull. I used this system only the other day and it works really well and with the only extra kit being a sling as Mocho points out.

I've tried using daisies and lark footed slings and all that shizzle and always found I go back to the basics.

Johnny Brown

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#51 Re: Big(ger) stuff
September 13, 2011, 08:25:43 am
That doesn't help Paul solve his problem by making an expensive purchase though does it? We're not going to spend our way out of this recession using slings!

Paul B

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#52 Re: Big(ger) stuff
September 13, 2011, 11:13:29 am
oh so this is the revenge for the 400 mm, I see.

Paul B

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#53 Re: Big(ger) stuff
September 17, 2011, 06:11:40 pm
Use an adjustable leash such as a Purcell Prusik in 6mm or 7mm cord: cheaper and easier to adjust than a daisy chain and you can use the cord as emergency abseil sling.  Setting up a comfortably adjusted belay should take about 15 seconds with this combination.

Out of interest have you tried this setup?

I tied one today (on 6 and 7mm cord) with 3 and 4 wrap prussiks and they slipped very readily. The idea worked well as an adjustable lanyard but I don't think I'll be trialling it in the gorge; a single touch of the prussik led to it slipping to full extension and I think that could be trouser-filling if it happened on a stance.

Paul B

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#54 Re: Big(ger) stuff
June 14, 2013, 07:51:52 pm
I don't know if it was this thread or another where I discussed the PITA of taking shoes with you, but I've noticed Evolv do a lightweight approach type shoe that I've seen a few people using in Yosemite:

http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/cruzer-slate/

dave

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#55 Re: Big(ger) stuff
June 14, 2013, 08:29:37 pm
One word - Daescents.

Paul B

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#56 Re: Big(ger) stuff
June 14, 2013, 08:30:16 pm
One word - Daescents.

Discontinued, death on grass?

dave

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#57 Re: Big(ger) stuff
June 14, 2013, 08:39:07 pm
Total death on grass. But on the plus side they climb well.

Johnny Brown

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#58 Re: Big(ger) stuff
June 14, 2013, 09:49:47 pm
I doubt anyone has done West side story in a pair of Evolv cruzers, but if the Daescents are discontinued they might be your best bet. El Mocho seems to like them, but he's, y'know, paid to wear 'em. They look a lot like the old 5.10 retros to me, which were okay on flat grit smears, or cracks, but useless on edges.

All of the above options will be death on wet grass. Try crossing a steep glacier in them...

Scouse D

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#59 Re: Big(ger) stuff
June 14, 2013, 10:02:32 pm

 

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