[Luthor]

STG  - Cordless/Cosmo @ the Cornice, Few things at the Tor
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011 New MTG needed.. Add to the small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - 
Tue     - Chee dale cornice. Worked Cordless. Some progress, think I will refocus on Cosmopolitan in short term..
Wed     -
Thurs   - circuits board @works lunchtime, wave bouldering @foundry after work. felt strong :-)
Fri     -
Sat     - fun bouldering session at minus 10. great to dodge the showers and climb outside
Sun     -

[andy_e]

STG: Finish dissertation/7B on schist
LTG: 7C+ on grit

Monday: Wall. Problems seemed better than the usual dross that they set. Did OK but required ibuprofen for my back the next day
Tuesday: Geologising
Wednesday: Geologising
Thursday: Wall again.
Friday: Geologising
Saturday: Geologising
Sunday: Geologising

The weather's been terrible recently. It's not stopped raining in about 3 weeks.

[nai]

stg Cry of Despair
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer

M -    foot on campusing - after one set of 1-2-3-4-5, reverted to 1-3-5, sets of 5 times up and down. 16th set was too easy, rested a minute and managed a bonus set failing at about 25 of the 18th. 4x15 pullups.
T - max hangs
w rest
t - plans for gentle soloing thwarted by weather so rest
F - plans for Cornice fell through, sulked at Stanage End for a while but soon got frustrated by the head high foliage and the breeze wasn't enough to stay cool when the sun came out.  Hit the garage for some 1-3-5-3-1 action, sets of 6.5, rest between 4th sets down to 4 minutes,completed 16 and a bonus set. core in evening
s
S - having only managed 2 redpoint attempts at Cry per session previously eventually got it on the fourth attempt of the day.

Very pleased and in the end somewhat surprised to do Cry today, cheers to Chris for persuading me to have another go when I was all set to sack it off.

[205Chris]

cheers to Chris for persuading me to have another go when I was all set to sack it off.

No problem. You were looking so strong on it and getting better with each attempt I probably would have bullied you into more attempts had they been required 

STG: Climb all the routes I should have climbed while I was busy with Powerplant........

M: Tired after the weekend so easy circuits at the works
T: Nada.
W: Fingerboard session followed by circuits on home board
T: All of the new black circuit at the works
F: Rubicon. Warm up, wait for a belay and then climb an Even bigger tail followed by flashing Piranha start
S: Cornice. Warm up then redpoint whose line + do some mileage.
S: Cornice. Warm up, stick the clips up Old Man River. Takes a while to figure out the moves (thanks to Nai for the crafty beta suggestion) then redpoint it. Do a few other things to get some mileage in.

Really good weekend, three days out climbing and three new route ticks. I've got another week at work then a week off, most likely headed to the Wye Valley for a mix of sport and trad. Can't wait!

[shark]

Cheers for starting thread Luthor - glad you've bagged CoD Nai as for andi_e:

The weather's been terrible recently. It's not stopped raining in about 3 weeks.

  Sorry to hear that it explains some of your other narky posts

Weight 11.5-7

M.
T. AM Tor. Awful humid conditions. 1 dogging go and 2 leads from ground on Rage/Anger Mgt Variant. Not very successful. Quick play on Weedkiller trav. Eve Edge. 45 min campus session
W. Couple of Bolton complexes. Attempted systems board end sess but stopped as was not recovered
T.
F. AM Tor. Fresher conditions. 1 dogging go and 2 leads from ground on Rage/Anger Mgt Variant. Got to clipping 2nd draw and moving past it. PROGRESS. Quick play on Weedkiller trav. Eve Took kids bouldering at Curbar. Unwisely had a a couple of goes on Gorrilla Warfare and lucky to get away with not damaging my shoulder.
S.
S. AM Tor. Good conditions. 1 dogging go and 2 leads from ground on Rage/Anger Mgt Variant. Got to clipping 2nd draw and moving past it as on Friday. On last go found some useful minor foot adjustments on 2 key moves.  Quick play on Weedkiller trav.

Good week climbingwise. Getting close on Rage now. Hopefully get a quick go on it this week in between taking boys tradding. Off to Mallorca on Saturday for 16 days 

[Luthor]

S - having only managed 2 redpoint attempts at Cry per session previously eventually got it on the fourth attempt of the day.

nice one :-)

[tommytwotone]

STG: Tick the Cliff up to 6c+
LTG: Font 7b

M: Depot session in v warm conditions, did new wood circuit V5/6s and got close to some of the V7ish ones
T: Cellar training, felt v tired but nevertheless had productive session
W: Rest day, out for meal in the evening
T: Met up with tomtom at Depot, tried remaining bouldering league probs and even ticked one of them!
F: Trip to Sheffield dogs with work, boozing and more drinks on return to Leeds. Late finish.
S: Felt rough, mooched around during day. Date in evening, cooked nice meal and went to see an arty French film
S: Back to Depot, lots of volume but nowt hard.

Bit of a ticking over week, weather's been pretty crap - either wet or horribly warm and muggy so not been psyched to get out and get on anything. Hoping for better conditions next week to get back on Trust at Guisecliff and resume siege on Font 7b target.

[Muenchener]

STG:  Alpine (sport) rock route >= 10 pitches, >= 6a
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes e.g. Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (anything: Fish probably unlikely)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

This week: plans for a child-free weekend doing Alpine multipitch sport with Frau M reduced by crap weather to a day of valley cragging .

M: Step-ups with big rucksack: alpine approach training. (Fingerboarding for the legs! But probably a waste of time see above).
T: Wall, boulderwelt. Warm up with an hour of easy to moderate problems, then Beastmaker 1000 versus 2000 Test Drive
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes mileage around the 6a/+ level. Not getting as pumped on straightforward but steep stuff as I was a while back, so *something* I've been doing has improved my endurance, efficiency or tactics. But what?
T:
F: yoga
S: Multipitch cragging, Martinswand. Tried a seven pitch 6a+, but this was Frau M's second-ever multipitch route and we quickly realised we were out of our depth(*). Bailed after two pitches. Did a pleasant 4-pitch 6a instead. Then rain.
S: Rain. Pullups, pressups, core, stretching.

(*) 6a+ is UIAA VII- and therefore a big psychological grade step for German climbers, the entry into The Seventh Grade. Rather like E1, the start of "Extreme", for UK trad punters.
 

[Fultonius]

Huy Guys    It's August, summer of not ticking lots of routes is nearly over and I've booked a trip to El Chorro in October. Time for some 

STG:
1. Make it to October in 1 peice, no injuries and no knee probelms.
2. F7b Onsight in El Chorro and F7c quick redpoint.

LTG: Find some new F8a projects and start working them. Complete one by April. E5 Onsight by next June.

VLTG: Fr8a+ Redpoint, 5+ Fr8a repoints. Boulder 7C/+


Last week:

Some weights for all round prepared-ness. Climbing a few times.

[andy_e]

Cheers for starting thread Luthor - glad you've bagged CoD Nai as for andi_e:

The weather's been terrible recently. It's not stopped raining in about 3 weeks.

it explains some of your other narky posts

 

That and being stuck in the office all weekend.

[nai]

I probably would have bullied you into more attempts had they been required 

Haha, definitely wouldn't have been another go in the tank, feeling pretty beaten up this morning.

[duncan]

STG -  get back into it.  Classic sea-cliff E3s? 
MTG - E5 os / 7b rp.  These are looking less likely at present...

No training or contributions to recent power clubs due to post-trip lassitude, man-flu', shoulder tweakage and idiotically stubbing my toe which was far more painful than appeared strictly necessary.

M-S ...as above
S- Ramshaw - the ideal crag for some gentle rehabilitation.  Pottered on some VSs and HVSs and did the slabby groove E1 thing to maintain some sense of self.   Feel suitably battered today.

Onwards and upwards!

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

M: 3xDB complex, 4m run @ good core session
T: trad and bouldering at Froggatt, would have done more but my back went into spasm so had to go and drink
W: 3xDB complex & 4m run
T: bouldering at Notts wall - felt strong
F: rest, headed to the peak camping
S: 6m walk and short bouldering session at rubicon - elbows were really sore
S: 6m walk and small amount of easy trad and soloing at Birchen

Good to get out and on a rope for the first time in ages even if the grades were embarrassingly low! Knee seems to be doing ok but elbows are as useless as ever. Will have to try another physio when I get chance, probably in Sep now as trip to France is looming.

[andy_e]

STG: Tick the Cliff up to 6c+

How is this a short term goal? There's about a billion problems at 6c+ and under!

[andybfreeman]

Goals - unchanged

M - Rest - no skin and arms / back felt well worked from yesterday

Tu - Assisted one armers at lunch time. Gollums after work, made progress but didn't get anything finished. Struggled to warm up so a fingerboard session first would probably help to extract the most from sessions there

W - Assisted one armers at lunch time. TCA after work. Good session despite the heat, on sighted new 6c/7a circuit and make progress on some whites and blacks

Th - Assisted one armers at lunchtime. Warmed up as thoroughly as possible given time constraints but still feel crunchy on the right arm. Looking forward to seeing whether a couple of treatment sessions with Ru will help to improve the imbalances that this exercise has highlighted. Improving volume and form a little each day so seems to be working! Charity event after work with colleagues - live action Monopoly around the centre of Bristol involving, unsurprisingly, a few drinks along the way!

F - Gollums in the evening. Feeling a bit washed out after the previous night's drinking but refined my sequence on the long 7B and made a move's progress.

Sa - Morning circuits session at TCA with Ru. Felt underpowered and struggled to warm up - 13 odd hours between sessions is not enough rest! Kept it steady and managed good links on the orange 7b and blue 7b+ in amongst the volume of easy stuff

Su - Crappy weather so TCA in the afternoon. Got the blue 7b+ circuit first go and it felt easy. Moved onto problems and did the white lip traverse first go then did the black prow - only a couple of blacks left to do!

Weight - average for the week consistent at 66.3kg despite drinking and eating too much on Thursday; 65.7kg this morning so going in the right direction again...

[shark]

Tu - Gollums after work, made progress but didn't get anything finished.
F - Gollums in the evening.

I gotta ask - what this ?

[tommytwotone]

STG: Tick the Cliff up to 6c+

How is this a short term goal? There's about a billion problems at 6c+ and under!

Ah - wasn't quite as specific as I have been in previous weeks, had assumed nobody was paying attention...I'm trying to do everything in the most recent guide up to and including 6c+...

Bit of a stupid challenge really, but it has forced me to explore a bit more than just sieging DWR again.

On the minus side though I do seem to have some pretty stern challenges left for when the weather cools down a bit - Sloper Traverse, the L - R traverse across the Underhand roof, In Limbo, Syrett's...

[andybfreeman]

Tu - Gollums after work, made progress but didn't get anything finished.
F - Gollums in the evening.

I gotta ask - what this ?

An esoteric local venue; limestone cave at the top of the avon gorge - no parisellas but it does have some hard problems to go at...

[andy_e]

On the minus side though I do seem to have some pretty stern challenges left for when the weather cools down a bit - Sloper Traverse, the L - R traverse across the Underhand roof, In Limbo, Syrett's...

You mean Sloper Patrol? That traverse across the lip of Underhand roof starting from the 5a on the left and finishing just left of where the extension finishes? That felt more 7a/7a+ to me but it was summer when I did it. Syrett's isn't too bad if you know how... key is getting your left hip out!

[tomtom]

On the minus side though I do seem to have some pretty stern challenges left for when the weather cools down a bit - Sloper Traverse, the L - R traverse across the Underhand roof, In Limbo, Syrett's...

You mean Sloper Patrol? That traverse across the lip of Underhand roof starting from the 5a on the left and finishing just left of where the extension finishes? That felt more 7a/7a+ to me but it was summer when I did it. Syrett's isn't too bad if you know how... key is getting your left hip out!

You should piss sloper patrol 3T, I just had lank issues with rocking over at the end!

In limbo... eek... tried that once.. when it was damp/raining (as its dry). I wont be trying it again in an hurry!

[tommytwotone]

On the minus side though I do seem to have some pretty stern challenges left for when the weather cools down a bit - Sloper Traverse, the L - R traverse across the Underhand roof, In Limbo, Syrett's...

You mean Sloper Patrol? That traverse across the lip of Underhand roof starting from the 5a on the left and finishing just left of where the extension finishes? That felt more 7a/7a+ to me but it was summer when I did it. Syrett's isn't too bad if you know how... key is getting your left hip out!

You should piss sloper patrol 3T, I just had lank issues with rocking over at the end!

In limbo... eek... tried that once.. when it was damp/raining (as its dry). I wont be trying it again in an hurry!

@Andi - yeah, that's the traverse I mean, pretty fingery and I reckon a bit of a sandbag at 6c+ in the guide, but there we go.

@T2 - to be honest I'd been waiting for cooler temps for SP, but think I'm going to have to end up doing it both ways to ensure I've done it "properly"... opinion seems to be divided on which direction I should be going! As for In Limbo, know what you mean, looks grim!

[Falling Down]

Still struggling with time, humidity and motivation.

T - Alternating Overhead squat and Pullup ladder (1-10-1)
W - 10k run round Hyde Park 55 mins - Very hot.
F - Pressups and pullups
S - Deadlift day. 10x80, 8x100, 6x120, 4x140, 3x150, 2x160, 1x165 (equal PR). BW 78
S - Quick routes session early doors 5 routes to 6c+ at Max Buttress

[Stubbs]

In Limbo is fine, you just have to get the leg jams working well. Probably harder for the tall!

[shark]

Still struggling with time, humidity and motivation.

[Falling Down]

Fair cop guv