[shark]

Weight 11.5-7

M.
T. AM Tor. 3 goes on Rage/Anger Mgt - mainly the starting moves. 3rd time up did start move. Eve Edge with Poppy. Some campussing
W. Noon. Bolton complexes and Systems board endurance set similar to Rage.
T.  Noon. Attempted same as Weds but a bit tired still so sacked it off and did some bar exercises - left arm locking much improved.
F.
S.
S. AM Tor. Warm occasional breeze. 3 goes on Rage. 1st go up pre-clipped 2nd and got the starting move first go. 2nd time up from rest did starting move and got up to clipping 2nd bolt for first time. Dogged to last bolt. 3rd go led from ground to grabbing 2nd draw on Rage - big effort to do this. Good progress.

Over-did it on weds - effectively trying short PE three days in a row. Doh! so took 2 rest days. Rage/Anger Mgt coming together nicely. Great route. 6 days on it now. Skin a problem in the heat and have been using anti-hydral to good effect. Heading out Tues and Thurs am again.

[i_a_coops]

Last week: hillwalking + first aid course in Lakes.
This week:
M-W situps, pressups.
T - left girlfriend. I believe this is of note as last time we split up, I started climbing 3 grades harder, and correlation implies causation.

(edit: not at all fishing for sympathy, I feel amazing right now and will have more time and money and less stress!)

rest of week: pushups.

Going road tripping for next couple of weeks, I am psyched off my tits. 

[205Chris]

I've been looking forward to posting this one......

STG: Powerplant

M: Works. Tick some of the comp problems then rack up mileage on circuit problems.
T: Nada
W: PE circuits on home board
T: Nada
F: Back to the cornice. Warm up and stick the clips up Powerplant then redpoint it next go. Head home for some well earned victory ale.
S: Bouldering - warm up at Rubicon then head to Blackwell Dale for some shade. Manage to tick Man of Steel.
S: Knackered but head down the cornice to meet up with some friends and get some mileage in. Some fingerboard work in the evening.

Made up to tick Powerplant this week. Planning to take it easy the next month and hopefully get a few more sport ticks that don't involve epic sieges before switching focus to bouldering.

[nai]

Good effort on Man of Steel, Chris

stg (season) Cry Of Despair.
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer

M -    foot on campusing - upped to 55 moves per set, kept rest at 1 min, 6 min between sets of four.  Failed at 49 set 12 &15 & 45 set 16
t
W - ditto monday, failed at 50 set 12 & 40 set 16
T - 2 nice trad routes at stoney + St Peter.  Full core eve.
F - ditto Monday, felt too easy all the way until last set, failed at rep 53.
S - same again but dropped recovery between every 4th set to 5mins. Just, only just, managed to finish the last set so went for a bonus and surprisingly managed 48 reps.
s -  Full Core

Interesting couple of weeks, endurance appears to have improved having progressed from not managing quite 800 moves in a workout to over 900 with more reps and reduced rest but the real insight has been regards recovery.  On Saturday, from totally and utterly pumped, unable to hold on to the board, just a minute's rest enabled another 48 reps or approx. 87% of a set.  This is going to prompt a change of tactic on CoD, despite not being that tired at the undercuts and it being a strenuous position for my neck and shoulders it must be worth spending some time in the rest if the recovery is that immediate and thorough.  I'm back there Friday, the psyche is strong already.


           

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff up to 6c+
LTG: Font 7b

M: Nowt, went on a date but didn't drink any booze.
T: City Bloc session, really good if pretty hot eve for it. Didn't climb too well but good psyche.
W: Nowt, made a decent keema though.
T: Depot comp round 3, made a decent dent in the problems but not sure if I'll be back for any of the remainders.
F: Nowt, fell off the wagon due to sunny weather / date no. 2. Got lashed on said date.
S: Hungover, mooched about and listened to cricket on TMS. Hip hop night in the eve, not sure if dancing counts as training.
S: Lie-in, mooched about and listened to cricket on TMS.

[andy_e]

STG: Schist 7B
LTG: Grit 7C+

Mon: Fly back from Leeds
Tue: Boltsheugh, damp. Nearly did Deadheads direct (7B)
Weds: Cammachmore. Did the Grunter (7A+), Good problem.
Thurs: Geologising
Fri: Listening to early 90s rave music
Sat: Craig Corn Arn. Got spanked on a sweet overhanging wall. Had a good day's exploring and doing nice easier problems.
Sun: Geologising.

Plan  for next week: Boltsheugh and Portlethen to try and get Deadheads direct and/or the Prow LH and/or the Pendulum and the Pain

[Luthor]

Thanks Shark

Excellent work Chris! 

STG  - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011 New MTG needed.. Add to the small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - 
Tue     - Masson Lees Quarry. 6b+ and 6c onsight and F7a second go. Worked a couple of other things. Nce change
Wed     - Bouldering at The Works
Thurs   - Routes session after work at the Edge
Fri     -
Sat     - 5km run in am. Edge routes session in pm.
Sun     - Walk with the kids

Feeling psyched to get back to the tor / cornice and get engaged with a project

[andy_e]

Hip hop night in the eve, not sure if dancing counts as training.

Definitely. Was this a Leeds hip-hop night?

[tommytwotone]

Hip hop night in the eve, not sure if dancing counts as training.

Definitely. Was this a Leeds hip-hop night?

Word.

Twas Holla! at The Loft.

Only the second one that they've done, it's the last Sat of the month...excellent night, all the classics being dropped on after the other!

[Muenchener]

STG:  Alpine (sport) rock route >= 10 pitches, >= 6a
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes e.g. Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (anything: Fish probably unlikely)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: Bike to work 26km
T: Bike to work 31 km
W:
T:
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short session, boulder warm up then tried a couple of routes. Onsighted a 6b: still a noteworthy event for me.
S: yoga
S: Wall, Gilching. Stamina session trying to onsight as many 6a/+ as possible.
 

[shark]

Sat     - 5km run in am.

Saw you on the online results - my wife and boys did it as well.

[Big Dave]

Mon -
Tue - gym - bench press / military press / weighted dips / leg press
Wed - gym - barbell rows / weighted chins / curls / abs+core
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Stoney Middleton - Minus ten wall, first visit for over 10 years, will probably be another 10 years before I go back!
Sun - Gym - bench press / leg press / curls

[chris05]

In reply to AJM:

Short and not particularly sweet:

M:3xDB complex, BM: pull-ups and one-arm max hangs
T: BM pull-ups
W: went to the pub for a pint and ended up staying far too long 
T: nothing
F: nothing + 
S: friend was visiting so more drinking  , did have an ill advised late night BM session but luckily managed to avoid injury   
S: quick bouldering session at the churnet, mainly showing a mate around.

Looking back through my diary this has been the worst week all year so hopefully things can only improve this week. I should have chance to get out midweek and again at the weekend.

[Barratt]

Mon - Works, steady session in the heat
Tues - Busy with work
Wed - Stoney. Set myself the goal of doing Zippy's Problem, feels v.hard but maybe doable (if I can get off the frickin ground!)
Thursday - Busy with work
Friday - Beer
Sat - Beer & BBQ
Sun - Stoney. Way to hot but played on Zippy's anyway... climbed terrible and was hungover.

Very busy week at work, so much going off climbing had to suffer

[webbo]

Mon. Rockcity mainly repeating stuff with the odd go on stuff I've not done.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Rockcity very warm repeating stuff did 41 problems.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Clemmits out of the woods again.Did both sides of the arete 7a/7a+ Made slight progress on the sitter.Various other things.Felt battered.
Sun. Bike 2hrs 45 mins 46 miles.

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before. Planned anstey's trip was abandoned as my partner couldn't make it

M - TCA after work. Fingers generally feeling a bit creaky so decided to ignore the crimpy white circuit and just had a session of problems. Worked a new long black problem through the roof

Tu - Inspired by the little and often training methodology linked from Nibs' double training thread I did some assisted one armers at lunch time. Skin felt thin so decided a session at TCA would destroy what little was left so opted for the comfort of the BM - Pull ups + assisted one armers, weighted hangs, powerball and core at home. Also, my PIP joints had been feeling a bit creaky across the board throughout the day but they didn't hurt anymore during increasing loads so I'm hoping they'll be fine tomorrow

W - More assisted 1 armers at lunch. Fingers feel solid unless  I press the outside of the PIP joint when they still feel a bit sore - fine to climb on I think…  TCA session after work, really hot! Fluffed a foot move on the white circuit when feeling strong then tried again probably without giving myself enough rest, split a tip then blew the match 4 moves from the end! Stayed on trying slopey problems and campussing on the mothership with the split taped.

Th - Assisted one armers at lunchtime. Planned trip to cheddar and the consequent crimping abandoned to try and preserve my split tip. Had a session at TCA instead. Climbed better than expected given the ridiculous heat! Climbed the new black through the roof and the black up the arête of phat 45 - both the first time I've managed to link them!

F - Met an old mate after work which turned into an unexpected night out with a bit too much @ Bristol harbour festival

Sa - Rest

Su - Afternoon/evening at Gollum's. First time there so got fairly spanked but did some fun stuff in the 6C/7A range and worked links on a 7B and a 7C. Had a few goes on thumb wars 8A but got predictably spanked, just holding positions felt like great training though!

Weight - average of 66.3kg, another 0.3kg down but up to 66.5kg this morning

Failed to get on any routes this week but did at least pull on some rock so not all bad.

[andy_e]

Hip hop night in the eve, not sure if dancing counts as training.

Definitely. Was this a Leeds hip-hop night?

Word.

Twas Holla! at The Loft.

Only the second one that they've done, it's the last Sat of the month...excellent night, all the classics being dropped on after the other!

Word, I'm keen for that shizzle. I'll round a gang up and see you at the next one!

[AJM]

I've been looking forward to posting this one......

STG: Powerplant

F: Back to the cornice. Warm up and stick the clips up Powerplant then redpoint it next go.

Nice one! Very understated too.....

[205Chris]

I've been looking forward to posting this one......

STG: Powerplant

F: Back to the cornice. Warm up and stick the clips up Powerplant then redpoint it next go.

Nice one! Very understated too.....

Thanks. You might not have said the same thing if you'd be at the cornice on Friday afternoon though.......

[Luthor]

Sat     - 5km run in am.

Saw you on the online results - my wife and boys did it as well.

Only done a couple but seems a really well organised and friendly event!

http://www.parkrun.org.uk/sheffield-hallam/home

[Three Nine]

...Had a session at TCA instead.

the best thing Oz will do for your climbing is get you away from that place I reckon! 

[heelhookofglory]

M: Rest
T: Beastmaker, 1 set of 4FO in morning.
W: Beastmaker, 1 set of 4FO in morning and 1 set in the afternoon.
T: Beastmaker, 1 set of 4FO in morning and 1 set in the afternoon. 27km / 592m ascent / 1637cal MTB ride in evening.
F: Rest
S: Bouldering at Craig y Longridge
S: 16km / 323m ascent / 1009cal MTB ride.

[tunaficiency]

M: rest
T: 15 mile mountain bike loop 1: 27
W: worked love in the time of cholera 7b down int gorge did all moves bar the crux
T: rest
F: went to pinfold with kate seconded her on toccata then did hunky monk after a few goes given 6b+ but not.
S: ruthin with ben warm up on 6b try my variation on fritallary flake rip off sidepull,
then dog up eating words and get it second go quickest 6c+/ 7a. Try 6b+ have to pull on
quick draw 
S: B day hyll drem with baby brother bouldering ace ( must do hardd )