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[Yorkshire] [Brimham] [The Ripple Effect] (Read 5719 times)

andy_e

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[Yorkshire] [Brimham] [The Ripple Effect]
July 30, 2011, 10:59:29 pm
Dave Cowl has climbed a new line at Brimham, something he's been trying for a while due to battling with summer heat! The problem can be found in the Alan Cameron-Duff guide, page 85, problem 23, boulder 8a. The description reads "SD Traverse L somehow and levitate up the R side of the arête." It's called the Ripple Effect.

He's not offered a grade due to it being the height of the grease season (also known as summer to normal people). Knowing Dave though, it'll be brutally hard! Good work that man.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2011, 11:05:00 pm by andi_e »

JK

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It's actually page 95 of the A.C.D. guide for those that are interested. Good effort Dave.

andy_e

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Thanks for that. Note to self: learn to read and copy.

andy_e

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tomtom

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Beast!

Stabbsy

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Looks great, Dave makes it all look easy as normal. Is this the low roof below the Acme Wall/Red Tape areas at Brimham? If it is, how does it relate to the 7B lip traverse in the same sort of area in Dunning's bouldering guide - same block or different (can't check the page numbers as I'm at work)?

andy_e

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The 7B lip traverse in Dunning's guide isn't a lip traverse, it's an up problem (and probably poorly described) which starts from an undercut under the left arete and a sloper on the left arete, and then goes up the left arete. The Ripple Effect starts on the right and lip traverses into the left arete.

Stabbsy

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Cheers Andi, good knowledge. Managed to have a look at the guide at lunch and the 7B description is impressively ambiguous - something like "SDS using footlocks in the break" and the diagram isn't much help either. At least it explains why the traverse left always looked brick-hard for 7B. I'm guessing it's an 8-something?

Jon Pearson

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A few of us did this yesterday. Some clarification is required I think. I checked with Steve and it's the same problem as the one in his guide. The guidebook grade, 7b, seems about right. Nice climbing, much better than it looks.

andy_e

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If you start from the arete with "feet jammed in back" as is vaguely described in Dunning's guide then 7b is right. If you start far right with "feet jammed in back" and hands on the back it adds a few spicy moves and a + grade. If only there was a website around upon which people could get clarification for this sort of thing  ;)

JK

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Great problem, as Jon says much better than it looks at first glance.

As is often the case, different beta was used by different people and all were different to Dave's sequence in the vid, but we all started to the far right as Dave does. I fell off the last hard move on the link so I can't really comment on the grade until I've done it, so I won't.   

rootask

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i think daves thing is worth 7b+ but thats only cuz i think the original is pretty stiff at 7b. it was all in summer though so who knows..brilliant problem and worth getting rid of the bivy for

JK

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Went back and did this and would agree it's somewhere around 7b. Dave now starts one move further right than in his video but in my opinion this doesn't make much difference to the grade and is a bit awkward. Great problem. 

 

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