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Bielsa, oil leaks and back to work.
26 August 2011, 12:52 pm

 Bielsa,

Lynne and I had heard loads about this place over the last couple of years but never made the effort to go and check it out, the problem being that you have to pass Rodellar to get there.

Crag on the way to Bielsa,

Well, last week we went and found out that it is definately worth the effort, Imaculate rock covered in snaking tufas, Its basically like terradets mark 2. Well on the first day at the crag I had an amazing day, warming up on a 7a and then doing Joes Bar Team (possibly the best 7c in spain) I managed to onsight Highway 52 8b. This route is incredible, amazing quality and has a bit of everything just the way I like it.

The second day saw us back up for more, instead of climbing onsight I decided to have a go on an unclimbed project at the crag that the locals reckon will be 9a, the route is really amazing. Its impressive to watch french climber Manu Lopez throwing redpoints on the route in proper amuerte style. Definately looks like there is room for new routes. So with this new project potential in mind we headed back down to the nearest city to get some supplies to stay there for a week, when unfortunately we realised that the van had started leaking oil!!!

With only a week left before starting work and temperatures hitting 37 degrees we were reluctantly forced to return to the casa, to take the van to the garage and get stuff sorted out.

Well anyway I have another crag that I am super psyched to return to. Maybe next weekend if the van is alright!

BACK to work.........

So we are back and its a baking 32 degrees, I know I sound totally spoilt. How can you complain about sunny blue sky weather? Well I never thought I´d say it but you can. We actually went and climbed on plastic today, its the first time in a loooooonnnnng time and i´m battered.

With the temps set too stay like this I think I´m going to have to be a weekend warrior escaping to cooler spots and doing a bit of training during the week.

DESPLOMAT event is this weekend, should be a good laugh, deep water soloing over the swimming pool, boulder comp and big Fiesta!!!!



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Proj mode
20 September 2011, 3:52 pm

 Me, being a pikey!!! Foam mats for the board I want to build.....

Sweating at the casa

The new chicken coop, first free range egg was layed yesterday!

Vicious guard dog attacking the obviously dangerous orange squeeky ball.

Back at the casa, got all the School/work shite organised and now to think and engage myself into Project mode, Catxasa is awaiting my attention.......

Desplomat bouldering event is also going to be really cool, they have errecyed an awesome wall over the village swimming pool and there are loads of steep funky looking bouldering walls too. Cant wait going to be a really great event.

The last couple of days out here have actually been a bit cooler and it has sent my psyche levels soaring, after a quick burn on the proj two days ago I felt really good, had to remind myself of a few subtle foot and hand movements but all in all it went well, until my foot popped which saw me helicopter spinning sideways my leg getting caught by the rope and me flipping upside down, all very dramatic indeed but actually nothing happened I had a brief moment of turding myself and letting out a scream like a 6 year old girl only too have the softest of soft falls and lower to the ground feeling a bit stupid. Oh well atleast there was only Lynne there laughing at me and not a packed crag!

Right we are back, school has started, timetables have been finalised everything is just about sorted.

Being organised in this game of climbing is just about as important as how strong your fingers are. Sorting out all your stuff for the crag

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Desplomat- 2011 Les Avellanes
26 September 2011, 5:58 pm

 Pablito, busting out a backflip.

Dyno!!!!

Xavi, swimming in climbing shoes.

Sunday was spent chilling out in the sunshine flying off the wall into the pool!

What more could you want?

The final of the boulder comp on Saturday night was really good fun, amazing problems, with a late finish even by Spanish standards we finished at 3:30 am! The party went on to the 9 the next morning.

Diego Marsella having a think about the moves on one of the problems in the final.

Alex taking down one of the final problems.

Chris mantelling out the volume on prob 5.

Me catching the swinging balls, awesome problem.

Great atmosphere for the final.

The one and only Andoni Perez, comentator extrordinaire.

Mid comp refreshments.

Lynne crushing the blocs.

Desplomat at the weekend was a great success. Loads of people turned up for the boulder comp, which had a really great and friendly atmosphere. The problems were super interesting and well set, it definately felt a bit unusual for me and was great training (battering) doing dynos and loads of funky moves that you don´t normally do when your tied onto the end of a rope.

The Desplomat event was all about raising awareness about the climbing areas around Santa Linya to show how important it is to local climbers and from the rest of the world. As you may know the climbing situation in Santa Linya has been a bit difficult in the recent past. I think that this event will have helped hugely in showing the local government and other people just how important the climbing in this area really is and help to keep areas like Santa Linya open.

Congratualtions to all the guys from Les Avellanes for putting so much hard work into the event so that we could all have a really great time and also a big thankyou to Victor Fernandez, who put so much into it he lost his voice completely for the day of the event.

Last but by no means least I´d like to say a massive thankyou to my new Sponsor freshstartliving.com.

They are a super innovative company that truly appreciate the dedication and sacrifices that have to be made by top level climbers.

With their support I feel a new confidence and motivation that I can achieve my climbing ambitions.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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The Monkey King- Indian Ondra
11 October 2011, 4:50 pm

I first saw this video some time ago, it was shown to me by good friend Alan Cassidy , not quite sure how he found it but what an amazing find!

WARNING

This video contains moves that even Ondra can´t pull off.



Someone give the guy some climbing shoes, just imagine what he could do!!haha



Source: TOM BOLGER

[grumpycrumpy]

The move he does at 0.34 is truly gobsmacking    .....

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Turning point
15 November 2011, 8:29 pm

Well, I´ve been trying my project, as usual. This project seems different to the others I´ve had before, after coming agonisingly close to doing it in the spring ( falling at the top 6 times) I thought that with cooler temps and a focused run at it I would be able to polish it off quickly. However, so far I haven´t managed it. Even though strangely all the sections feel better than ever the damn thing still holds out against me.  The main crux of the route is a slap to a mono, this move is just so fricking hard to get right! I t´s not just about strength it´s about timing, about commiting everything and not giving in to the natural "oh my god I´m slapping to a mono and my finger´s going to rip off" fears. The annoying thing is I´ve been through this move before and also I´ve done from one move before the mono to the chains three times! Redpointing- it´s mental! It is SUCH a learning process and is definately the hardest thing I have ever tried. After getting close but not doing it I now realise that I need to up my game to get this route done.  With this route in mind and Tudor bompa´s periodisation manual in my hand I have reached what I think is a turning point in my climbing. Climbing over the last 2 and a half years has been going to the crag and me throwing myself at the hardest routes I could get on, well i´ve enjoyed it and I´ve learnt lots on the way, but I think it´s time for a bout of training aswell.  Yesterday I started: boulder warm up, 2 x 8a laps, then 2 go´s on my project , then up fabela 8c+ then back to the casa where I did sets of ten and 20 pull ups on a small edge on the fingerboard ( 100 in total) then went to work, finished at ten got home ad then did a fingerboard session. Still psyched today even though I can´t lift my arms above my head;)   Oh yeh and  today as it was pissing it down I have been bolting a new line in Santa linya cave! It´s incredible the amount of work that goes into bolting these routes and I have a new found respect for all the guys out here who bolt routes (out of their own pocket). So far it seems really hard, you never know though until you start trying the moves, but I woudn´t be suprised if the cave had another  9th grade route notched on its scoreboard. No pics at the mo because my camera battery charger is capput! :(

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Gypsy Blood
28 November 2011, 5:26 pm

Gypsy Blood,

is the new route I have just finished bolting and cleaning today in Santa Linya!

Wow, the work that goes into bolting these routes is beasting, thank god I´ve finished it, so now I can spend rest days actually resting instead of fighting with a 50 degree, 30 metre overhanging wall.

Obviously the name is about Lynne and myself, lifestyle choices and a bit of family history in there too!

Although, It should be known that I haven´t had to turn to collecting scrap metal to fund my climbing passion, YET!

I haven´t tried the moves on the sharp end but obviously felt the holds and stuff whilst hanging on the static rope, it´s so hard to say how hard it will be and i´m really psyched to jump on it and check out how hard it actually is. The cool thing about the route is that there is virtually no resting point so will be super resistant, continuous climbing. Just how I like it.

Well we´ll see, ill get a photo tommorrow.

Psyched ;)

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Winter Wonderland
17 January 2012, 6:27 pm

 Eli on Pegue Nocturno 8a

Porky!!!

Niels cruising Spanglish at the futbolin-Santa Linya

Gerard hanging out at the rest on fabelita 8c.

Well Catalonia is the place to be in winter. Cold, crisp, blue sky days are what it's all about. Xmas and new year have come and gone but the winter season out here is still in full swing. The psyche is high and all that christmas grub seems to have finally been burnt off!

Now I'm psyched to climb all the way out of the Santa Linya cave, yesterday I fell off the top of Fabela pa la enmienda 9a, an awesome 50m route out the middle  of the cave, getting some air miles on the clock as the bolts are super spaced, as you only clip 5 bolts in the second half of the route:)

This year I am psyched to do more exploring, get out and try some hard routes in new places, bolt more and climb more onsight! Maybe even a multipitch or two!

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Fabela Pa la enmienda 9a
23 January 2012, 5:10 pm

So with loads of motivation for 2012, I managed to make an ascent of my fifth 9a, fabela pa la enmienda. This one is special to me as it climbs all the way out of the cave at Santa Linya. I remember first visiting the cave on a trip when I was 17 and swinging around on the 8a´s there thinking how impossible and intimidating the place was. Ít´s cool to look back and be able to see the improvement, something that is often very hard to see and something that as climbers we are always looking for. Check out the interview about the route at UKclimbing:   http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=66228 Thanks need to go out to Lynne for the epic belays and to EDELRID, whose support is much appreciated.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Margalef, a climber's paradise
28 March 2012, 3:00 pm

What do we look for as climbers from the perfect crag?

Routes of all grades? Amazing views? Both north and south facing crags? Fast drying routes and places to climb in the rain?

Well with these criteria in mind my place of choice has to be Margalef....... it´s amazing in some ways it´s completely overwhelming, the number of crags and the possibilities for future crags, just blows your mind.

Lynne and I have been making the journey down there for the weekends for the last couple of weeks and have been exploring the newer sectors of La coma closa ( home to the famous super route of Era Bella) and la catedral. These are some new shadey sectors for when the weather is a little warm and they are absoloutely world CLASS!!!

I´ve had a couple of runs up the mega test piece Era Bella 9a, which is amazing, so psyched to try this one this weekend!!!

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Catxasita 9a/+
9 May 2012, 3:03 pm

So psyched to have done this one! Feels like my hardest route to date.

Check it out on ukc:

 http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67094













The cave and Catalunya is heating up rapidly forecast of 31c tomorrow,  time to start seeking shady higher spots and in six weeks time back to  the UK. Hopefully it will be a good summer in the UK and I'll be able to  get out on all the routes I want to try.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Psicoblok Camarasa
11 June 2012, 1:27 pm

I first spotted this small but beautiful band of rock jutting out over the lake in winter on my way to Terradets and thought to myself when it's really hot I need to go and check that place out as it looked like great fun.

So a couple of weekends ago after trying to go climbing at the Camarasa crags and sweating off just about every route I tried we headed up to the lake to check it out.

I took a short rope and abseiled down a couple of lines the rock quality was surisingly excellent and nicely featured which it needed to be as the faces are about 45 degrees overhanging.

The first route to try was an obvious line scaling the left side of the prow on massive jugs, probably the steepest 6b out there and great fun "La via del guiri" 6b, after that we set about trying a route just round the corner which went directly up the prow. This goes up the steepest part and with no chalk and unsure about what to grab it was great fun getting spat off and splashing around in the water. I got the route after working out the sequence and is now known as "La Fiesta del bellyflop" 7b+ after that I traversed round the base of the cliff ( which is prob 5+) which is covered in cool tufa holds and tried another line which starts up a great tufa this one 7b "El Muricec", and finally I abseiled down another blank looking face to clean it up which turned out to be a great little line. Niels grabbed the first ascent naming it "The hole" 7a and I followed after him up the excellent little route ( in the photo us jumping from the top of "The hole" 7a).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The descent from "the hole" 7a[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Niels on La Fiesta del bellyflop 7b+[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Martin on the 6b (Eli and Dave looking in from the viewing platform)[/td][/tr]

[/table] By no means is this Lleida province's answer to Mallorca but it is good fun and great for when the weather is really hot, the routes in general are quite short 8 or 9m  and bouldery, a good intro to dws as the water is deep, nice and warm and the routes are short. Psyched to check out Mallorca some day looks absoloutely amazing!!!



Source: TOM BOLGER

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New kit, psyche for new routes!
23 August 2012, 12:22 pm

Firstly, so psyched about the new Edelrid kit, they have brought out some great new shoes called the Cyclone. They are a top end performance shoe and I am really psyched to get out and use them on real rock, amazing fit and new stickier rubber are going to make a big difference this season. Secondly they have brought out the Atmosphere harness which is amazing, super light but also super comfortable this is going to be so useful for when I return as I have loads of plans for bolting new routes and also multipitch projects which mean lengthy periods in my harness.

 http://www.wobook.com/WBCs1MV9xT4t/Workbook-Sports-2013-Wobook.html

Training indoors here in Scotland has been my only climbing fix, all the crags have been soaked and ridden with biting little midges. One armers, finger boarding and circuits blue and orange plywood have taken over from blue and orange streaked limestone paradises..... One thing being back has taught me is that overtraining is easily attained and that if you really want to train to go away on a trip it is so worth following a periodised plan. Currently I am suffering from the mentioned and with a tweaked a2 pulley i'm going to have to take it easy for a month or so, but if I can't climb I am determined to get out and bolt some sick lines to get me motivated and what better all body workout than bolting steep lines. Didn't seem to harm the beast that is Dani Andrada!!!!!  

Here are a couple of spots I've seen that i'm going to go and check out for new routes when I get back:

                                             from outside the cave



Looks really cool, amazing fun climbing on stalactites cant wait to get out there and get involved.

Back to the rings to do some more pull ups, front levers and all the horrible bulls##t you do when you cant just climb rocks!!!!!!! haha

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Start of a new chapter
15 September 2012, 2:54 pm

So the ferry is booked!!!

We have hugely enjoyed being back in the UK, old friends- new friends, fish and chips, curry, drinking too much, you know the usual! Pulling on Plastik, and checking out Scotland in the camper.

Next Saturday Lynne, myself and the pooches will be heading out in the camper!! Spain is cooling down nicely for our arrival, we are heading to the Basque country first and then heading across to hit up Oliana, Margalef and Rodellar with maybe some Siurana and Santa linya in there too.

This year is going to be so different we are not going to be teaching so we are going to be free to chase the good conditions and just go wherever, whenever we please!!!!  

The Lleida area really has become a second home to me, the people, the food and wine are all truly great and have been sorely missed these last couple of months. The amount of rock and world class routes to go at is insane. The room for further development is just as incredible.

The climbing and the climbers that you see  and meet make it the most inspiring place to climb.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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New Sponsor- Core Climbing
26 September 2012, 10:52 am

Big thanks to the guys at Core Climbing, really psyched to be working with them and their support is really appreciated.

Core make awesome holds, inspired designs from real rock destinations like font and the grit give their holds the real rock feel!



Source: TOM BOLGER

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finger issues, fitness training
20 October 2012, 8:54 pm

Well, things don't always go the way you want them too! The summer break in the UK was meant to be for hard core training ready to come back and crush Catalunya's awesome crags, instead it turned into injury riddled rain dodging and feasting on really healthy food like fish and chips, haggis and litres of irn-bru.

Being back in the Spanish sunshine is amazing and great for the body and soul, my finger is healing up well after spending the last couple of months doing very easy climbing and making sure not to crimp anything. The last week I spent training in a cool little wall in les avellanes the village next to Santa Linya, I must admit, it feels weird training indoors when the sun is shining and the cave is just around the corner, but it is what needs to be done. I have been doing some fitness training, going running and the last week I was doing 100 move circuits and doing 1200 moves in total finished off with sets of pull-ups rounding upto 200. Its actually pretty cool just being able to train and then hang out in the sun.

With rain forecast for the next couple of days I'm going to head down to a friends climbing wall in Lleida to do a bit of training and then time to get on rock again.Psyched!

 Having this time away from being able to go and try my hardest on routes has made me realise just how much I enjoy it and how difficult I find it to be cooped up inside, how stunning the places where we go climbing actually are and how much I love the process of having a project in mind and running through the moves in your head last thing at night.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Harry hitting the booze[/td][/tr]

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 Bielsa  

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The new wall at Les Avellanes, work in progress.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Kiu[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]chilling in the campo[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Camarasa coffee break[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Dinner time[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The best beer out there![/td][/tr]

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Source: TOM BOLGER

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Psyche resurge
23 October 2012, 4:10 pm

Unbelievabe psyche resurge today, went climbing in the wall, did some boulder problems for the first time in the last 2 months and my finger didn't hurt at all!!! I know now it's time to be responsible and not go mad on the rock and try some 9a+ but I must admit i'm fecking psyched. I totally believe that having a break sometimes is a good thing and I definately feel like I have a renewed energy.

Check out these routes which look absoloutely amazing and that are at my local crags!!!!

                                                          Nit de bruixes 9a+ Margalef

                                                    Fight or flight 9b Oliana

                                               And a video of me that always gets me psyched because it reminds me of good times, hanging out with good friends and trying hard in the cave.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Power to weight!!!
30 October 2012, 5:06 pm

Incredible week for climbing! 8c+s, by a little girl which just boggles the mind. Having taught english for a few years and teaching loads of 11 year old kids I find this incredible not merely because physically 8c+ is f**king hard but because it is also so mentally and technically challenging and most 11 year olds iv'e met are still little, little kids fighting over using the other kids rubber, spilling bogies everywhere and laughing at everything that has the word bottom in it!

How can an 11 year old girl climb as hard as adults who have dedicated 10s of years to training or basically to the best female climbers in the world?

Pushy parents? Psyched Kid? Naturally amazing power to weight ratio? Environment (loads of psyched climbers)? Coaching?............ The list goes on.

Ondra flashing 9a! Awesome, amazing skills he definately makes you feel like you need to pull your finger out and try hard!! haha

Then you have the other side of the coin, Edu Marin's dad does his first 8b+ at 60..... incredible.

Climbing is amazing it is so complex, thats what keeps it fresh and always inspiring I suppose.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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SHERPA
5 November 2012, 8:17 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Worked after 8a+ onsight [/td][/tr]

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So big thanks to my newest sponsor SHERPA Adventure Gear, with their amazing clothes I'm going to keep nice and toasty at the crag this winter!!!

All sport climbers know that there is nothing more important than a big warm down jacket at the crag, whether for belaying or chilling with your mates between redpoints it is crucial in being able to keep warm and keep your energy levels up instead of just shivering to death. You might be thinking i'm crazy because I live in Spain and people don't think it gets cold here but they are WRONG!!! It gets feckin freezin but it normally coincides with the good conditions so being able to deal with the cold is essential for making the most of the good friction. The Sherpa khumbuche jacket the perfect crag downy, I had it on today at the cave and it was awesome.

Soo...... getting back some fitness! Two weeks ago I started climbing again on rock and made a trip to Tres Ponts with Lynne and met up with Gaz Parry. To be honest I felt absoloutely turd, I was climbing like a robot locking off every move, trembling at the knees scared about falling off and just generally crap, fumbling clips etc 7b felt like 8b and 7c like 8c. So after three routes I was destroyed both mentally and physically, I was chatting to Gaz about the importance of getting on rock and how plastic just doesn't prepare you for it, I ended up having to have a week off as my finger started to hurt a bit again:( Anyway after a week off I felt fresh again, my finger felt fine and I was psyched to get fit and feel fluid on rock again. We headed back out to tres ponts, I did a 7b to warm up and felt good! I was nicely suprised, feeling much more relaxed and actually enjoying the climb not gripped out of my mind. Next I had a look in the guide and picked out a 7c+ to try and onsight, so I grapped 16 draws thinking that would be more than enough and set off with my new beany on to shield me from the icey wind blowing across the crag. Well I got up into the crux puffing and panting and was thinking to myself the whole time this feels totally desperate for 7c+, shit I have got a lot of work to do to get back into shape!!! Anyway I fought my way up the route, not taking enough draws for the monster, I had to seperate the biners creating a heanous rope drag, I squeezed the rope into the anchor and sat back!! UUUFFFF I let out and muttered to myself something about fucking 7c+ desperate!

Got down and was psyched to get up the thing and thought it was an amazing route, truly 5 star but kept thinking it was desperate for 7c+ after checking the guide again I realised oops it was an 8a+!!! yayy confidence boost!

So that was three days ago, yesterday we went to the cave and I did a couple of 7cs and felt ok today I gave myself a huge kick up the arse and set off up Fabelita 8c just to go bolt to bolt for training and I did it!! I mean I have done this route before and know the moves well but I'm just so psyched to have got some fitness back in such a short time!! I finished off the day by doing the 7c 5 times. So psyched for this season going to have a couple of rest days and then maybe hit Oliana!!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Gaz and I getting ready for some 7b chimneying[/td][/tr]

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tornado in cubells

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jack on 7c at tres ponts[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]In the cave with Harry, home sweet home![/td][/tr]

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Source: TOM BOLGER

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Catalunya Days
15 December 2012, 7:53 pm

So those crisp winter days are upon us, fresh cold air and mint conditions on the rock. The last couple of weeks have been awesome, I have spent some really great days at Santa Linya cave sessioning Seleccio Natural with good friend Joe Kinder.

The route itself is majestic one of the best, untravelled to say the least,  Joe and I have had some frustrating hold snapping incidences, and have definately left the route harder than before.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Lowering off Seleccio Natural [/td][/tr]

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 Trying a hard route with Joe is great fun, he brings so much energy to  the crag it's crazy, when he's not trying to send the route he's  investigating and bolting a new extension. It's been really cool to  compare and learn from different climbing styles and approaches,  enjoying the same route is something new to me and is something I've  been missing out on. Don't get me wrong trying projects on your own and  working out your own ways feels so wholesome but having a laugh,  belaying each other on the same project is really cool, I feel the most  relaxed I have ever felt whilst projecting a route. Psyched to get out  there tomorrow and give it a go!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Joe chatting beta[/td][/tr]

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Chris and Primo

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Primo[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Colette[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Primo on fabela 8c+[/td][/tr]

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Another perfect Catalunya winter, wouldn't want to be anywhere else!!

The other current project Lynne and I have is a house!!! We have got a place 30 min from Margalef and 30 min from Siurana!!! Basically more climbing than you can shake a stick at so really psyched to put some work in and get it the way that we want it...



Source: TOM BOLGER

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New year in the sunshine!
15 January 2013, 8:45 pm

To bring in the  new year we headed down to Oliva near Gandia, with Gaz and Kate to check out the local crags there and get a bit of warm, sunny weather! Had a great week checking out Bovedon and climbing and bolting at Gaz's own super crag, en La Vall de la gallinera.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from below the mega steep prow project.[/td][/tr]

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The view from Gaz's crag! Here I bolted a roof project, which I tried and will prob be 8b or maybe a bit harder called "Do the Andrada". Really cool spot perched up above a beautiful valley am definately psyched to go back and play on some of the projcets there!

Since then I've been climbing in margalef, trying some easier stuff because I've got a bad back:( and am currently seeing an osteopath about it, didn't really realise how frustrating and difficult back pain could be, i'ts also definately brought home that I need to get more flexible and that flexibility and posture play a huge part in both performance and preventing injuries.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]POW!!!!! [/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Happy after doing Rocaina dura 8b+ on the new part of Espadelles Margalef[/td][/tr]

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Los reyes de Margalef!!! haha

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunny Catalan Weather ;) Harry snow wrapped[/td][/tr]

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Now back in Catalunya I'm so psyched to explore and climb at my new locals, Margalef and Siurana, also been out and found a load of sandstone boulders (roofs and everything) walking distance from my house!!! Just need a new back!



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Rest time
19 February 2013, 5:45 pm

So unfortunately I have been dosed another rest period away from climbing:( this time it is a back injury.

 I'd had the occasional sore lower back from time to time but always put it down to swinging around in huge steep caves and having sore, tired muscles. That was until when working on our house I lifted up a rather large boulder and felt something pull in my lower back, thinking it was just a tweaked muscle I went back to climbing a few days later trying seleccio natural 9a I could still climb but falling off and the pressure of my harness on my lower back was horrible! This continued for two months until I thought I need to go and see someone about this. I thought maybe I just needed a massage to work out the knot in my back. I saw a physio and then an osteopath and with no resolve, I went to the osteopath for 2 weeks until she said I better get an MRI done to see what exactly was wrong. So went for the MRI and it turns out I have a herniated disc or disc bulge. SO basically need to take it very steady and no climbing at the mo...going to get started with some physio and work towards getting fit and healthy again. It has really brought home that you have to look after yourself well and also has really made me look to and appreciate that I want to climb for a LONG time and that to be able to do that I need to respect stretching and general care and not just about trying as hard as I can every time I go to the crag.

A positive in all this rest time is that I'm working on my general flexibility and especially upperbody  working to see if I can straighten out my right arm fully for the first time in the last four years!!!!! Reading Jerry's book is definitely keeping the psyche up...





On a positive note our house is coming along and am very psyched about getting climbers to come and stay..... I also went out with a friend who lives near by to check out new walls 20 mins from the house that are pretty awesome, long, good rock and north facing which is perfect for when the weather heats up!!!

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Back!!!
19 July 2013, 1:22 pm

Back to the UK and Back training !!!!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Training at the mega wall- The Depot Leeds[/td][/tr]

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So after a long lay off healing my back in the spanish sun I'm back to theUk ( which is suprisingly sunny at the mo) and back training. I know its sick to say but i'm loving training, climbing is great fun whether its on rock or plastic and I have missed it deeply!!!

I'm based in Edinburgh at the mo and am mega psyched to explore more of Scotland and check out Reiff and Torridon in the next week or so..

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mr Beastmaker on Malc's arete Torridon[/td][/tr]

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Last week I was at the Outdoor Show in Friedrichschafen, Germany checking out all the new amazing kit on offer,  I was there with Edelrid and have to admit I'm really impressed with the innovative new kit they have released, can't wait to get my hands on it.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Prize winning "Product of the year" Snipe rope [/td][td]

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[/table] Dual thickness the first 7m are 10mm and the rest are 9.8 which is amazing for sport climbers as the ends of the rope ie the bit we trash first is more hard wearing. This is a must for any sport climber.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Prize winning harness Orion[/td][/tr]

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The comfiest climbing harness in the world and still super light. Psyched on this especially to take care of my back.

 



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Era Vella 9a
25 May 2014, 10:14 am

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Era vella 9a, pic Said Belhaj[/td][/tr]

[/table] Era Vella 9a, well psyched!

This route has been in the back of my mind for a long while, it is a mega route, truly world class.

Getting back to this level really feels like a big milestone and has made me more psyched than ever to try hard and keep pushing myself to try and achieve my climbing goals. Injuries can really mess with your head, but you can also learn so much from them and hurting my back made me realise that I wasn't indestructible that you have to take care of yourself and respect your limitations.

A few days before doing Era vella,I also redpointed  Victimas del passat r1 a mega route on one of the finest looking walls in Margalef, bouldery and explosive power endurance climbing, one of the best 8c's ive done and probably the hardest!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Victimas del Passat r1 8c ,pic Lynne Malcolm

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Source: TOM BOLGER

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Seleccio Natural 9a and Migranya 8b flash
4 June 2014, 4:58 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]pic Sam Williams[/td][/tr]

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Wow so psyched to have done this route !! One of the coolest climbs out there, explosive climbing with two dynamic lurch cruxes:) Great fun! In Siurana I made the most of a dip in temperatures and managed to flash the classic 8b Migranya, cheers mac for the beta ;)

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]pic Sam Williams[/td][/tr]

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Right , the weather is heating up and I'm looking for other projects, one thing in particular has captured my attention and is a super exciting adventure. Sam Williams and I have set about ground up freeing a new multipitch route!! Pics and info to come soon!! Psyched about this one!



Source: TOM BOLGER