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First Blog
7 April 2009, 4:24 pm



My first blog and im sitting in a cafe, in the rain - nothing new. Thankfully my friends are here from Scotland so no shortage of bad chat. Had a good day yesterday at Terradets before the rain. I tried La Leccion 8, it was really good but a bit wet still. The others managed to OS numerous routes, Ally his first 7b and Neil denied at the top of the classic 7c, Occident, all in all a good first day for them. The forecast is better for tomorrow so hopefully we can get climbing.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Better Weather finally!
2 May 2009, 7:00 pm



Its been a busy couple of weeks with miserable weather but finally things are on the up. Managing to get out in the good weather, whilst moving house. Disblia has been a good crag before work and I managed to do a really good 8c there called Cadena Muerte and am now trying another whilst waiting for the cave at Terradets to dry.

We are now living in Vilanova De La Sal, less than 10 minutes from St Linya and am motivated for mid-May when it is open again.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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26 May 2009, 9:06 am



Its been a busy few weeks since the last blog, work, climbing and the new pooch Dillan. As St Linya is still closed I have been climbing at Disblia, a sector with many old, hard, classic routes and an old training ground for Spanish WADS. This week I managed to do Cadena Perpetua, 8C. Psyched to do it, as it has only had a couple of other ascents. Pete O'Donovan has also been out a couple of days with us taking pictures and keeping the dogs under control!!! Thanks for the pics.

Saturday was the first visit of the year to Rodellar. We went with Pete, Angels and met up with Dani and Andrea. Its such a cool place with endless amounts of amazing routes. I watched Dani try a new project at Ventanas next to Los Borrachos, totally insane!!! Psyched to get back there, probably this weekend because Lynne doesnt want to go anywhere else!!!

Source: TOM BOLGER

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A good week
28 May 2009, 1:02 pm



Went to Diablia yesterday and tried a new route there. It links Guilty 8b+ into Cadena Perpetua. The route is fantastic but now im absolutely destroyed, everything aches.    Also yesterday,  after some impressive power-squeals Lynne managed to do her first 7c+, after almost dropping it at the chain.  We are both quite motivated at the moment as we only have 5 weeks of work left.  We are planning on climbing in France, Spain and Austria for a couple of months.  Im pretty psyched to check out Gorge Du Loup, Zillertal, Rodellar, as many as I can!!!!

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Rodellar and beasted lats!!!
24 June 2009, 12:07 pm



With temps of 37 degrees the last couple of weeks have not been easy but seeking the shade in Rodellar, climbing early and cooler temps of 32, the last week has been good. I tried Les Inconformistes a 9a at Las Ventanas. Its an amazing route that is slightly intimidating due to its strange angle, completamente differente!!!!!!! Alan Cassidy has also been out for the weekend. We took him to Disblia and he warmed up on a 7c OS and then just before dark OS the classic 8A of the crag. He was keen for Rodellar and he did Made in Mascun 7c+, El Delfin 7c+, Mal de Amores 8A+ 2nd go just missing the OS. Lynne tried Made in Mascun and is hoping to do it before her summer jolly.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Life on the Farm
28 September 2009, 9:21 am



Its been a long hot relaxing summer in Catalonia, sleeping, doing the garden, sleeping, eating, sleeping, its definately nothing like a British summer. We went on a bit of a trip to France for a week but decided to head back to Spain as we wanted to stay at home and not in the van (weak I know). We were also quite motivated to begin our mini farm....chickens, rabbits, fruit, vegetables, nuts etc, fresh eggs every day are definately good for recovery.

We have spent the last month climbing lots, taking advantage of the slightly cooler weather. Ive been trying Les Inconformistes again and im really enjoying that. Ive not tried it in the last couple of weeks due to a finger slicing incident but am keen to get back on it tomorrow. Since we started back work a couple of weeks ago we have also been going to Margalef and Disblia, not so easy to go to Rodellar and be at work for 4.30!!! At Disblia I managed to do a really short 8b+ called Guilty, super bouldery with the crux over only a few bolts. I then surprised myself by doing an 8C link up of an 8a+ into the route Perpetua, only just managing to clip the chains!! At Margalef ive had a few goes on an 8C there called L'espiadimonis. Ive never really climbed on pockets before, a different style to what im used to but im definately psyched to spend a bit of time there over the next few months.

Alan Cassidy is also out living with us now. He is definately motivated, wanting to do every route in Catalonia! A couple of weeks ago he managed to do Pata Negra, 8C in Rodellar achieving his lifetime climbing goal. (check out his blog)

Source: TOM BOLGER

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La Primera Nueve A!!!!!!!
4 October 2009, 7:06 pm



Today I did my first 9A Guilty Perpetua (FA), which is a link-up in the 'Old Skool' Disblia cave. It links Guilty, a hard 3 bolt 8b+ (font 8a at least) into the top of Cadena Perpetua. Cadena perpetua is a hard 8c that I have already done, the top section being 8b+ in its own right. I dont really like breaking down the route into graded sections because when comparing them to other routes there are so many varients to be considered i.e. the size of rests etc. Regardless, this is my hardest route to date and the most direct line through this awesome cave and im really psyched for people to come and try it and give their opinions.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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The Next Decade of Climbing!!!  Venga Vichos!!!
3 January 2010, 4:16 pm



....Ok, so.... ive not been very good with keeping the blog upto date but im going to try a bit harder and make time which is not so easy when im working and going climbing and dont have internet but motivated to make an effort this decade! :)

Before christmas I was climbing a lot in Santa Linya. I was really motivated for a route called Fuck the System, a long 9A that is the extension to the classic 8C Digital System. I tried it quite a lot and fell off the last move!! Im pretty psyched to get this route done as soon as the cave dries up. Alan also managed to do his project in the cave, an 8C called Favelita before he headed back to Scotland for Christmas. Lynne was also pleased to do Devora Hombres, the short and powerful 7C+ in the back of the cave.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Its purrrrrfect!!!!!
24 February 2010, 4:02 pm

Direct Fabelita 9a , my very own link up at the cave!!!!!!!

Soo psyched, after falling on the last move the other weekend and then a week of crappy weather i thought it was going to be another 9a which i have fallen off the last move and not done!!!

Well, it didn´t start all that amazing today, we went down to the crag not expecting much after a storm yesterday and torrential downpour , to find the crag more or less dry. The sun was out and a strong wind was whipping round the cave making it feel crisp and cool. After 3 miserable attempts falling at the same spot, a really bouldery sequence, in the lower part and time to go to work approaching, i was ready to call it a day. However a japanese friend of mine whose name i cannot begin to spell gave an amazing display managing to do his first 8c+, today is his last day in spain after a long trip and he was super psyched, this Psyched me up to give it that one last "TRAINING GO"   and that was it, somehow even though i felt tired before i started it was just one of those attempts when everything feels right !!!!

Now I need to get back to some unfinished bussiness ie Fuck the System ( when its dry that is).

Thanks to Lynne for going to the cave All the time!! Thanks to Alan too for the superb victory  belay!!!!

Source: TOM BOLGER

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What a Crazy day!!!!!!
26 February 2010, 8:54 pm



Well, I still can't quite believe it, today i did my second 9a, Fuck the System.

Tired from wednesday we arrived at the crag late today as we had to do an english course, so i warmed up slowly on airline and then bouldered around, i hadn't been on fuck the system for more or less two months due to all the rain and seeping tufas, anyway i pulled on and climbed through the crux of digital smoothly, arriving at the rest before the crux sequences i felt calm and focused pulling through the moves i made one or two mistakes hesitating on the top headwall and completely forgetting to replace the crucial toe hook, pumping out i plumetted back down with memeories of previous failed attempts. I bounced back up the rope and worked the moves to remember the top sequence,.

Sitting around at the bottom after, again I thought it was time to call it a day, the sun was fading it was getting cold but i dont know i just psyched myself up once again thinking if you want to get something done you've got to try fucking hard!! At the last move i felt nervous as it it is a large dynamic move and i had already fallen here two months ago. I slapped a numbing hand on my hand and went AMUERTE hitting the final hold perfectly ,letting out a roar as i clipped the chain it seemed like the dream ending to an already perfect week!!!!!!!

Thanks to lynne again for many days in the cold belaying and thanks to Pete for coming out in the cold to get the photos.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Clipcicles, Open your mind and Margalef
28 March 2010, 7:45 pm



Here are a few pics depicting the last months episode, mal tiempo y buen tiempo. So it started with clipicicles and snow AGAIN, climbing down at the cave in down jackets, hats and thermals. Doesn't sound like what you would expect from Spain in march, does it??!!! Well anyway, I had a great start to the month, managed to do the super classic open your mind 8c+ and then the following day El ball de triceps 8b at margalef which was my first 8b flash, thanks to Alan for the well needed beta.Lynne had a pretty good couple of weeks making short work of airline 7b+ and la gorra 7b+ at margalef. Alan crushed Rollito extension 8c (his third now) before a brief return to the motherland!! Anyway we are all now on to the next set of projects, but are all waiting for some sun to dry the slimey tufas a bit!  THE NEXT LEVEL Alan is attacking open your mind 8c+ and making fast progress with this power endurance test piece. Lynne is getting closer to the trio ternura 8a, but the crappy conditions of  the last month have left crucial holds disgustingly wet .And i'm trying to push myself on to the next level , Open your mind direct , its amazing how easily your lifetime goals change!



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Open your mind direct R1 9a
6 April 2010, 10:33 am

Well arriving at the crag on what was meant to be a rest day due to sore skin, back etc Alan and  I sat around heckling and soaking up the sun; well as I said I wasn't going to climb but with the motivational energy flowing from what is "team scotland" and the young Jonny Stocking crushing Rollito Sharma 8b+, I was psyched up for my own proyecto!

After a couple of familiar boulder problems at the base of the crag to warm up, and waiting for the good conditions to arrive I found myself  clipping the chains. Looking up at the extension shaking out I wanted to continue but looking at the soaking tufa holds I knew that it would have to wait for another day.Lowering off pumped but not completely destroyed I am even more determined than ever to push myself on to the next level. When it drys out i'll be going for the 9a+ chains.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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8a Que Barry!!!
24 May 2010, 12:29 pm

The last couple of weeks have been pretty eventful, with the prime event being Lynne crushing her first 8a Thai dream!! Awesome effort!!!

The scot youngster Ross Kirkland also managed to do his first 8a in fine style, managing a flash ascent and a shout goes out to Ally Swinton who also grabbed his first 8a!!

I aso squeezed out the classic Fabela 8c+ down at the cave.

Well with rising temps ( slightly unbearable) we firstly went over to Rodellar, where the team bagged some good ticks, Alan crushed gemenis 8b+ second go and Neil despatched Gladiator 8a+, Ross onsighted Ironman 7b+ and I managed to get a quick ascent of Welcome to tijuana 8c just before the clouds opened and drenched the valley rendering the crags unclimbable.

So off to Margalef.....

Now Margalef is somewhere I have climbed before but hadn't really appreciated how amazing this climbing area really is, the new route possibilities are absoloutely endless, the scenery is superb and the variety of styles of climbing is mind blowing!!

Yesterday i managed to get Aitzol 8c in 3 redpoints, well psyched.  I am very keen to try more routes down here and see what they have to offer.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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The cave
21 December 2010, 5:57 pm



Well here we are living in Santa Linya!! Walking from our house to the crag, the cave!

Climbing in Santa linya is probably one of the most surreal places, when your in the village you feel like you are on the edge of the world this is a place where donkeys and packs of wild dogs rule the rutted and mostly dirt streets and where the average age is at a youthly 72.

On arrival at the cave, however, you will probably be greeted by an array of very expensive vans, large groups of people speaking in more languages than you thought existed and nearly all of them queueing up to get on some 9b or another.

Every winter the cave fills up and we spectate watching the climbing elite come from all corners of the world to test themselves on the amazing hard routes that are to be had. Just over the last few weeks there has been an impressive show from team Japan each of the four members climbing 8c+. I think that you can learn so much just from watching the different climbing styles and different approaches to routes. The Japanese guys try to onsight everything even if it is at there redpoint limit. This positive mentality and approach is maybe something we could all bring to our climbing. When was the last time you thought oh yeh this route is as hard as the hardest route I've ever done , I'll just get on it and onsight it?

Well anyway as for me, I have been trying a route called Ciudad del dios 9a/+, having fallen near the top and struggling with flappers and heel slips and numb hands and any other excuse I could think of for falling rather than I just fell, I decided to have a shot on blomu 8c+.

Blomu is an awesome route it breaks dow into three parts 7c, 8b, 8c+ the first is quite short and burly the second is crimpy with two dynamic throws and the third part consists of delicate heel hooks, tenuous body tension foot swaps and a pretty spicy run out, the whole thing is a truly brilliant route. Very psyched to do it but it just isn't my project, which, I am more motivated than ever to get back on, hopefully I can squeeze a couple more cositas out of the tank to top off what has been my best year of climbing to date.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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All aboard the sending train!!
20 January 2011, 12:40 pm



So, after warming up at the football pitch waiting for the horrible fog to leave the cave . We arrived with an hour to spare before having to get off to work. On arrival Alex Barrows started what was to be a crazy day of sending with a fine ascent of Rollito sharma 8b+ ( his first of the grade)!! Two Japanese guys managed to simultaneously crank out a red point of there 7b project on the last day of there trip receiving an awesome applaud from the busy crag. The atmosphere was great. Up next was me, I managed to do Ciudad del dios 9a/+!!! Next, Danilo busted out Rollito Extension and just as I was running around stuffing my things into my bag trying to leave for work Rob Lamey fought his way up Ruta del sol 8b. Possibly the best 20 minutes of sending ever?

Ciudad del dios is the first route that has made me question whether I could really do it or not. I knew I could do all the moves and I could do it in two sections , putting it all together however just seemed both mentally and physically too much.

The first section of the route is a five bolt 8c+ which is really bouldery, with two main deadpoint moves. The second part is longer and requires you to switch over quickly into endurance mode. I found this transfer from really bouldery to resistance climbing mentally very taxing. I knew that to do the route I had to remain calm, something that seems so easy to do until you are actually there.

Well, climbing is so hard to determine what you did differently, what let you snake your way up when every other time you got spanked and shut down. Is it physical? Some of it must be. Is it mental? Definately, when I was actually climbing the route I felt more relaxed than ever before, I felt confident and without any nerves of falling or about doing the route. The demons that so frequently dash all redpoint hopes just weren't there. Maybe for me a once in a year moment of mental focus like this is how Ondra or Sharma rock up to the crag every other climbing day ?

Source: TOM BOLGER

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Montsant Magic
24 January 2011, 10:11 am



Yesterday ,with my project under my belt, I decided to go and do some onsighting-destination Montsant. I had only ever been to Montsant once before, 3 years ago, but had seen the stunning line of L mens 8b+. I remember standing at the bottom of it too intimidated to get on it.

Well 3 years on and there I was tying in, getting psyched up for the onsight go.

This time I had decided that I was going to approach it differently, in the past I have approached routes onsight too psyched up, jittery, full of nerves and have blown them on some subtle foot move or pumped out over gripping.

The route went really well, I had to battle and there was definately a couple of moves were it felt really close, but I managed to stay relaxed and keep my head together right until the chains, keep those thoughts of "I'm going to do it" at bay.

Soo pleased to do this route am really psyched to get back into onsighting.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Siurana Real Rock fun in the sun!!!!!!
12 April 2011, 4:24 pm



Well, Sunday saw Lynne and I team up with Neil McGeachy (geek) and take team Scotland for a day out in the mega sport climbing venue of Siurana. A big shout has to go out to Team Scotland, who were all awesome. I must say that I'm really impressed with the kids that are coming through from Scotland, they've got great determination and truck loads of energy to boot!!

The sun was out and it was really hot but that didn't stop anyone all of the kids crushing atleast 7 routes in the day!!

I think what Geek is doing with the MCofS is really great for furthering Scottish climbing, they are getting kids out onto the rock were they are gaining invaluable climbing experience from a really young age. Which, when you look to Mr Ondra, is definately needed by todays elite!



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Casa Santa Linya, life in Spain.
3 May 2011, 4:10 pm

Well, so far this year Lynne and I have had loads of friends staying at the house which has been awesome,too many names to mention them all.

I think it's always great for the motivation to have psyched people around you I feel it really helps to get you psyched to try hard.

Here are a few photos of recent activities here in Catalunya.

Alex (the hulk) Barrows walking to the gorge at Mont rebei, with myself and Ross Kirkland.

Elly (the dutchess) chilling on the sofa.

The team having a late night workout on La Rambla.

Ummmmm??Which way to the car?

Well, anyway I've been trying Catxasa loads and have fallen at the top 4 times now. Hopefully the weather will cool a little bit, I will rapidly grow some new skin and be feeling good for tomorrows redpoint.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Summers Coming
23 May 2011, 7:23 pm



First of all I would like to say thank you to EDELRID who have taken me on as part of the team. I've had all my new kit sent out and its amazing.

Its got pretty hot here in the last couple of weeks and we have had to venture to some crags that are in the shade but close enough to be able to get to work on time. We went to Sector Regina at Terradets, world class tuffa climbing thats well worth the walk-in. We have also had a couple of days at the lesser travelled sector at Terradets called La Pizarra, where we have been doing a bit of cleaning and climbing. Although the crag is roadside the routes are amazing but very 'old skool' ie HARD!!!

Joe Kinder and Colette were staying with us for a few weeks which was really motivating, we did a load of climbing and lots of drinking, Joey also filmed me on Ciudad del Dios which was really fun.

We are now on the countdown to the school finishing.......only 4 weeks to holidays!



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Better late than never
8 June 2011, 7:16 pm

Ive finally figured out to post a link!!! Thanks again to Joe and Colette for the video of Ciudad del Dios in the Santa Linya cave.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/tom-bolger-climbing-ciudad-del-dios-9a

Only 2 weeks to go here before heading off for the summer, 2 months for climbing, climbing and trying to stop Harry scaring people.

Source: TOM BOLGER

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3 days to go!!!
20 June 2011, 1:13 pm



Well, its HOT!!!!!!! So, we have been doing a bit of climbing at La Pizarra and sector Regina in the Terradets valley, which are the most shaded spots around, the only problem is that it has still been 28 degrees in the shade. Sweat and greasiness are at maximum levels, its a bit of a shame because these two sectors are truely amazing. I will definately be spending more time at these crags when we return from our summer ADVENTURE!!

With it being so hot this weekend we couldnt be bothered sweating our way up routes so we decided to go and do the via ferrata in Oliana which I must say is pretty spectacular, looking down on eagles swooping across the crags is really quite stunning.

On Sunday we went to Cavallers, a high mountain crag that is filled with granite. Cavallers is about 2 hours from our place in Santa Linya and as you arrive there you can feel the difference in the air, when you stick your hand out the window of the car you dont get the hair drier effec you do near ours. the scenery is reminiscent of Switzerland or Austria and grazing cows wander around the boulders in the lush valley meadow. Well, we didnt go for the sport or the trad routes, we went bouldering. At the base of the valley there is a beautiful stream that is surrounded by boulders and bordered by a thick pine forest. The boulders range from easy gentle slabs to impossible looking overhangs. This is somewhere we will definately be revisiting. The only problem with Cavallers is that there is no real topo, the good thing about it is that if you are psyched and you want to be the first to do new problems, there are thousands of new potential problems, just dont forget your brush to get the moss off the virgin boulders!!!!!

Well with 3 more days and then we are off on our summer trip, so psyched now, its just so difficult to decide where to go first!!!

And thanks again to FIVE TEN and EDELRID for there continued support.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Travelling amuerte with Mavis!
7 July 2011, 10:32 am



What a crazy week or so, returning to Scotland, buying a campervan (Mavis), catching up with family and friends, travelling south again on the karaoke ferry extrordinaire to Santander, to very, very slowly cross the Cantabrian mountains (bad map use) back to the inferno of Lleida, swimming, drinking, organising the Spanish dole and now Basque Climbing WOOHOO!!!!!!!

The first crag we have come to is Apellaniz, a small seemingly locals crag which is beautifully set in a lush Basque forest. Climbing here is a little surreal as you climb to an orchestra of cow bells worn by the huge cream cows that mow the grass at the base of the crag, making it seem as though it has its own private gardener.

Arriving to the crag without any guide or anything, we were warmly welcomed by the locals who gave us a guided tour of the crag. There are about 60 routes spread over three main buttresses. In general the climbing is short, bouldery and explosive on pockets and edges. The middle buttress is longer and has a more British limestone feel, white and blue with delicate climbing on slopers and undercuts.

Im so psyched to get back climbing, its been a while.

First day at the crag I did a classic 8a os, La Txunga del Txi and another 8a La Txunga del Gotzon 2nd go. Yesterday we returned to Apellaniz, warmed up on a couple of brutal 4 bolt 6's and Lynne did a 6b+ with a full on move off a mono!! I then go so spanked on a 7a+ that I had to check the guide to see if I was on the right route, as I knew that there was an 8b next to it. Unfortunately, I was on the right route!! With Lynne chuckling I wondered if it would go next red point, joder! Luckily, I shook my way up it feeling scared on the first pad mono undercut and smeary feet. Now I know why the Basques are so strong. Anyway, a couple of biscuits later I finished off the day by onsighting a really great 8a on the Garrapatta wall. Grades, what an odd concept sometimes.

We are resting today and tomorrow we are going to check out Valdegobia.



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Valdegobia, Spanish Malham.
23 July 2011, 10:43 am

 The 7a+ at apellaniz that was a misprint in the guide actually 7c, thank the lord!

At first I thought these stone carvings were just for feeding the cows, only later did I find out that they were actually tombs!!!! Didn't get back in one after that.

These tombs are everywhere at valdegobia at the bases of many routes, there is even one carved into the crag about 10 feet off the ground!

First and only day at baltzola= rain, forced rest day.

About 300,000 euros worth of vans in the car park! I thought climbers were poor?!

Spanish Malham, Valdegobia.

Back from a quick trip to Germany, where I was at the enormous tradeshow with EDELRID. It was a really good experience, great to see the innovative new kit that those guys are producing and really appreciative of their support.

So we,ve had 2 days climbing at Valdegobia, this is a crag which is to my knowledge not well known in the uk or outside of Spain for that matter. However, I think that the brits out there would love this crag, suprisingly cool temps, crimps, pockets and tiny little footholds. It's set within a green meadow. Not suprisingly it is super popular for Spanish climbing families. So much so that the locals have nicknamed the main sector as "the playground". Some of the sectors are featured in the basque climbing guide but not all, there are loads of sectors with one more hidden quiet sector that is covered in amazing tufas!

The only downside to the area is that at the weekend it is realllllly busy, kids and dogs and cows out number the climbers ten to one. For me personally I don't like climbing when it is so busy, the atmosphere there wasn't the usual chilled, friendly spanish way that I have come to know and love. Oh well, all that said I did do some really cool routes,made some silly mistakes( not taking enough draws) and having to jump off the onsight of the 8b+ not knowing whether to laugh or cry, pleased to do the 8c yesterday, it's the quickest I've ever done one.

Today back to Apellaniz, and proj time for Lynne, venga amuerte!!!!!



Source: TOM BOLGER

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Santa Linya Desploma't Climbing Event
26 July 2011, 11:30 am



DESPLOMA´T 2011 ,LES AVELLANES Y SANTA LINYA LA GRAN FIESTA DE LA ESCALADA.

ATENCION LO QUE SE AVECINA EN SEBTIEMBREACTIVIDADES PROGRAMADAS-COMPETICION DE BLOQUE-COMPETICION DE PISCIBLOC-DEMO EVOLV TEST (prueba por la Face los gatos Evolv)-FIESTA NOCTURNA CON DJ. Y ESPECTACULO DE FUEGO-ACTIVIDADES PARA LOS MAS PEQUES. ROCODROMO INFANTILPUENTE TIBETANO-INFLABLE ESCALABLE-PROYECCION DE PELICULAS-CONCURSO FOTOGRAFICO-EXHIBICION DE SLICKLINE-INSTALACIÓN DE INSTALACIONES PARA APRENDER SLICKLINE-ASISTENCIA DE ALGUNA DE LAS FIGURAS MAS PUNTERAS DEL MOMENTO....-CONFERENCIA SOBRE LA SOSTENIBILIDAD EN LA CUEVA GRAN DE STA. LINYA Y PROYECCION TURISTICA DE LA NOGUERA-Zona Shopping con Stands Comerciales-Y MUCHAS MAS SORPRESAS.........SORTEOS.......http://desplomat.blogspot.com/

Source: TOM BOLGER

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3 8cs in 6 days
7 August 2011, 10:09 am

 Dani lopez aka biceps guy on Karma 8b at Lezaia.

Lynne swinging around on the awesome 7b at Lezaia.

Wei trying hard on Beldurra 8b.

Wei at the base of Lezaia, another mega locals crag.

Me on the tufatastic Gaua 8c.

Harrrry!! New haircut!!

Dani Lopez, crushing agur 8b at oñate.

Me on the mega tufa classic Honky Tonky 8c.

Great cross through moves on the mid section of Honky Tonky 8c.

The sun tickling the base of the wall and my feet.

Dani (de vitoria) sending txipolini 8b Apellaniz.

Ellie keeping herself amused with a little snack.

Me on Justolini 8c. First ascent (link up).

Another shot of me on Justolini, a cool short and steep buttress.

So, it´s been a pretty busy week, retreating from the crags in Asturias as I couldn´t get harry to the best crags as he couldn´t climb the via ferrata approaches. Oh well, back to the Basque country and Navarra where there is a real abundance of small locals crags that are really great and Harry friendly.

First on the list was Apellaniz, where we met up with Dani Lopez, a really strong climber from Leon, the guy is like a walking encyclopedia of spanish climbing with a book thick collection of hand drawn topos. Here I did a link up of Txipolini 8b into Justuri 8c (3rd go) , I tried the link up because the 8c is no longer possible due to a broken hold that has left a blank section of wall. Its great climbing combining steep power pulling to a crimpy headwall, Dani tried it with me too he thinks it´s 8c.

After a rest day retrieving the rope from a tree in Apellaniz we went on to Oñate, the original training ground of many Basque beasts including Patxi Usobiaga and Josune Bereziartu. There is an awesome photo of Josune in the old Basque guide crushing Honky Mix 8c+, the most ripped women that ever existed and the first to climb 9a!!!!

This crag has awesome tufa lines, what I found out is that this crag is a true locals crag with sand bags a gogo for warming up. Its meant to be a summer crag but the locals climb here in spring and autumn, the jungle conditions left me wimpering at the state of my hands!!! Really psyched to get Honky Tonky done, uber classic!! The following day we went back but the rain and humidity stopped play, so semi rest day.

On the road again we followed Dani to Lezaia a crag set in Navarra, it´s a super steep cave style crag where power endurance is the key. First day at the crag I jumped on a great 7b to get going and then got stuck into the 8c Gaua, It features kneebar intensive tufa squeezing to a powerful headwall. After two tries working out the trickery I did it 3rd go, some would call that first redpoint however I think thats absolute turd, a go is a go! Awesome route definately psyched to try more at this crag.

Today we are off to explore another local Navarra crag with routes upto 8c+, thanks to Wei for the info. However looking at the weather the temps are set to sore, might just have to whip out the speedos and get to the Playa!

All the photos by Lynne except the one of her of course.



Source: TOM BOLGER