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Moving on, for now...
27 April 2010, 11:28 am

Well I seem to have been woken with a start from the dreams of bagging Open Your Mind.  I have a lot to learn from the experience of this project.  Should I have done it before now?  Probably!  There are a lot of factors to weigh up.  I certainly could have been a little more "pro" but with Team Scotland about, it was hard to turn down the odd cerveza (or 2...).  I suppose I really should have kept the eye on the ball, but then again, climbing is meant to be fun; though sometimes I wonder!

Teen Mutant or Bad Influence?

Circumstances too have had an impact.  When I started with this project I was on a bit of a high, just having done Rollito-Sharma Extension.  It's hard to maintain these peaks, and with the time pressure of giving the cave over to the archaeologists for another year I was reluctant to take more than a rest day at a time.  Perhaps this was the nail in the coffin.  A definite negative spiral of performance has been accompanied by an almost overnight increase in the temperatures from "good nick" to "inferno" and breaking the tiniest, but seemingly crucial, sliver of rock off a pinch has added another dimension to the diminishing returns.  So I have accepted defeat in this battle at least; but the war, as they say, is not over!

Now it's time to tick a few routes draw up a final set of goals for the few weeks that remain of my Catalan climbing adventure.  But deep down I can feel a Trad Revival coming on...

Trad Revival 2010?



Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Rodellar, No Cash, No Future: CLIMB CLIMB CLIMB!!!
4 May 2010, 9:47 pm

So I've found my way to Rodellar, sleeping in the GTI (which I need to get rid of) freezing to death in the Siberian winds but climbing well!  Leaving the furnace of Santa Linya behind,  I followed Team Scotland MkII to Rodellar.  Day one was a nice start, tidying up a loose end Gladiator 8a+ (formerly 8b) and adding Coliseum 8a to the slowly growing list of 8s I have bagged onsight.

The next day was a dream, after a struggled 7b warm up I plucked up the courage to try the next big route I have been dreaming of trying in Rodellar after Pata Negra, Geminis. This former 8c, downgraded for the latest topo, is one of the biggest lines to be found anywhere and I felt nervous leaving the ground with 20 odd clips not knowing what was going to happen.  30 mins later I was on the ground, I knew it was possible, but in how many days?  A 2nd attempt would sort out where I needed to iron out the sequences. Setting off "for a go", I went comfortably through the crux, on to the huge pumpy head wall, but didn't get that pumped.  I kept climbing through the last hard bit; not that bad; anchors clipped; 8b+ second go. GET IN!!!

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Rodellar me encantas
9 May 2010, 10:39 am

Another good few days have been had in Rodellar with "Team Scotland MkII".  After the pleasure of my success on Geminis and various other onsights up to 8a my motivation and confidence has been very high.  Looking for another BIG line to project I set my sights on Iron Man a huge 45m 8c.   The reality of this route turned out to be a little less enticing.  The 45m really comes down to a 17m power endurance roof in the sky above an easy 7b+ with the two sections being separated by a complete (standing up) no hand rest.  I can see the approach to the roof getting very dull if this turns into a siege!  The 8c part comes down to long physical moves on good holds which deposit you at the lip of the enormous roof of the La Surgencia sector.  The crux kicks in at the transitition to the headwall with awkward almost slabby moves guarded by a long cross-through off the world's most painful heelhook.  Tactically I decided to look at the route 3rd day on, tired from the first 2 big days here, but with the idea I would have it all sorted for the day after a rest day.

On the next climbing day and by the 2nd redpoint I reached the lip only to hurt my heel quite badly in the heelhook.  I decided to leave thoughts of this route behind for a few days and turn my hand to some onsighting/flashing, finishing the day off with a flash of Evasion 8a and then a spectacular failure and near groundfall (thanks to some spectacular belaying) on the phenomenal, Les Chacals which is only spoiled by being downgraded to the terrible non-grade of 8a+/b in the latest topo.

The next day was fantastic, a possible rival to doing Geminis second go.  I set off to the crag with Team Australia, this time; Andrea Hah (mutante) and Doug McConnell (dunkin biscuit).  Not sure what to warm up on I decided to just get on something; No Limit a 45m 8a+ which I knew to be a good candidate for an onsight.  Although I have onsighted a few 8a+'s I really want to get my confidence up onsighting this grade and this seemed like the perfect route to get the ball rolling.  The long, pumpy, blocky style is very much my thing and after a long time on the wall, I had bagged the route onsight.  A good start to the day!

Andrea Hah one half of team Oz, great climbers and fantastic cooks! (Photo: Doug McConnell)

Next off was a return to Les Chacals, both Andrea and Doug had recently ticked this and they were able to run through the beta with me and I was very pleased to get this 2nd go.  This might well be the best route in Rodellar, a real standout piece of climbing.  With a quality beta team, I decided to have a go at another Rodellar classic, Espirit Rebeld which I had been saving for a flash or onsight for some time.  In spite of a few damp holds the impeccable beta got me up this route to round up a fantastic day and another 8a+/b in the bag.  (I hate these slash grades!)

Doug McConnell: This man has good beta and good beer! (Photo Andrea Hah)

Photos to come, when I find the time to get the camera out of the bag...too much climbing to do!  

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Siurana: End of a Dream!
20 May 2010, 1:59 pm

The big news from Casa Guiri is Lynne's send of her first 8a. I think it was probablly a real surprise for her that it didn't turn out to be a steep route but the slightly less than vertical Thai Dream in Santa Linya's sector Futbolín. As far as I know this makes her the first Scotswoman to climb 8a and I'm sure this is just the first of many. NICE ONE LYNNE :-)

Lynne Malcolm on another 8a project: Trio Ternura at Santa Linya

The other big news from the "Scots in Spain" was a flash of the same 8a by Ross (Adam Ondra) Kirkland, meaning he joins Paul Williamson in flashing his first 8a: The youth of today!  Big up to Ally Swinton too for joing the 8a club with Thai Dream and Primera Linea (Terradets) on consecutive days.

With Rodellar written off due to wetness that would make Scotland look dry, I took off to Margalef with Doug and Andrea (Team Oz).  After a narrow miss on the onsight of Sargantana Killer 8a+ I moved on to an 8b that is becoming a bit of a classic; Chupito + Cubato 3 Euros. i sorted the moves and went for a redpoint, fell at the crux and considered another go later in the day.  While resting I felt the strangest sensation of my finger filling up with fluid and turning blue!  Scary stuff but as it turned out nothing too bad.  All the same it made a change of scene desirable.  

With Andrea leaving for Oz, Doug and I thought to ourselves, why not try Siurana?  The weather being unseasonably cold for May.  For me this was to turn into a disaster.  To cut a long story short, on my first redpoint run on the absolutely amazing Migranya Profunda 8b+, mid cross through I heard the most horrible tearing sound in my shoulder followed up immediately by a complete loss of power in my arm.  (Torn posterior deltoid perhaps?)  Whatever it is it certainly doesn't make for the best way to end my Spanish adventure at all.  Time for a week of sorting out life stuff, hoping the shoulder isn't as bad as it currently feels.  If it isn't up to any hard pulling I think it'll be time for some trad slabs in Scotland....

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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The Anvil: Back From the Brink
26 August 2010, 10:07 am

Back in Scotland, injured, unemployed, miserable, I decided that the blog had to come down.  I wanted to hide away for a bit.  BUT its back, almost injury free, remotivated and hopefully constantly improving.

After sitting out most of June and July I have started training again, getting outside and importantly getting the trad revival modestly started with some Cambusbarron action.  The highlight so far being an ascent of Production Line E6 6c which was also repeated by motivation incarnate, Will Atkinson (more on him later).

I have also made 3 trips out to the Anvil with one thing in mind: getting back on the 8c+ train.  I have my sights set on Dave MacLeod's excellent Metalcore which for me is the line of the steep face.  Malcolm Smith has been exceptionally busy out here in recent months and the Anvil now boasts another excellent (and likely hard for the grade) 8c+, Blood Diamond and a 9a, Hunger.  So, Mr Ondra, there is now enough to make a weekend trip worthwhile!

My first Anvil trip of the season was made with Niall McNair who is on a mission to get all Scotland's 8b's ticked.  This is a growing list of esoteric classics and no mean feat to repeat given that some of them are horrificly bouldery, sharp or perma damp.  At the Anvil, his first goal was Fire Power which is one of the most utterly desperate 8bs in existence, especially to the reach impaired.  This route's crux (a 2 move V10/11) forms the start of Malcolm's 9aand to be honest I think that it would sit quite happily at 8b+.   The difficulty is belighed by the light work made of it by Will Atkinson (definitely not reach impaired), who impressively bagged this in a day and captured it nicely on video (which I have pinched).

The desperate Fire Power 8b (Video by: Will Atkinson)

On that first day Metalcore seemed almost impossible, move by move I was struggling.  But the intensive traing sessions in between the crag days seem to be paying off.  Day 2 with Johnny Stocking trying the route with me, found me find my own alternative sequence for the crux, avoiding the grim toe hook method used by Dave in the next video (heavily endorsed by a certain footwear brand) and the desperate shoulder press method used by Malc.  I still felt miles off, but the route was finally in the realms of the possible.

Dave MacLeod on Bodyswerve 8c which forms the main crux of Metalcore (Video by: HotAches)

Yesterday I hit the crag once again, this time with another young whippersnapper, Paul Williamson,and found myself linking into the crux, through the crux to the last bolt (which holds the sting in the tail redpoint crux) and through this.  It is quite startling how something can go from a long-term "maybe"  to a short-term possibility in so few steps.  Very very motivating!

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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The Wasted Generation
2 September 2010, 6:56 pm

Since the shoulder has got better I have been training and climbing non-stop.  I'm currently overly psyched for everything; training, bouldering (at Dumbarton), competitions (BLCCs soon - everybody enter please!) and yes trad climbing.  I was left feeling quite guilty having watched the "Great Climb" on Saturday.  As part of the generation "lost" to bouldering and sport routes I suppose I really should have been on a big mountain route on Sunday.  BUT NO, I have a score to settle with Metalcore and so I took advantage of the current dry snap to return to my big project (of the moment) reassuring myself that I would cleanse my soul and appease Mr McCallum in the mountains once this route is done... To further confirm to me that I shouldn't have been sport-climbing on such a nice day, when I arrived at the crag, I was faced with a libelous assault on my character...

Message at the bottom of Metalcore, takes one to know one, if you ask me.... Niall!

Anyway, I went with the objective of a smidgen of progress and came away with a link to the last bolt and the feeling that the route is on.  Thankfully the Cowal peninsula has been blessed with an unusually stable weather system this week and so I might get a concerted attempt to seal the deal this weekend.  Bring it on!

I've also been frequenting Dumbarton a fair bit and finding my motivation for the black Font unusually high.  I have been working away at some of Will's latest additions to the Home Rule Boulder bagging the 2nd ascent of Nice and Sleazier and a repeat of Nice and Sleazy both reputedly 7C+ and definitely classics.  I also enjoyed Mike Lee's Le Tour de Technique 7B+ and hope to add the Sabotage start to get my first "proper hard" bouldering tick since I did King Kong a few years back.  Dumbarton is so popular these days and all the action can be found at the stunning http://www.dumby.info/ website.

 Will Atkinson shows how its done on Nice and Sleazier 7c+ first ascent

I'm slowly building upon the content of this blog, for example see the new "Top Tens" page and hopefully make it less of a list of "I did this and that" (sorry I didn't avoid the ego polishing this time round) and more of a climbing fanzine type affair (with a bit of ego polishing in there too).  So watch this space!



Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Not Enough Hours in the Day
9 October 2010, 9:12 am

There aren't enough hours in the day if your not a full-time American rock superstar, but to the detriment of my sleep and blog, I've been all over the place this last month, benefiting from the huge enjoyment climbing has to offer across the disciplines, trad, sport, bouldering and competitions (forget ice, thats just mental).  

Having seen the live climb and getting a bee in my bonnet about the "lost generation" comments, Stu and I got ourselves motivated for some big trad and decided to take a look at a crag I have wanted to get to for many years now, Dirc Mhor.  And I can't recommend it enough.  Fantastic micro-granite in a non-intimidating place makes for a pleasant multi-pitch experience.  Too be perfectly honest I'm a bit soft and find multi-pitch climbing a strange juxtaposition of terror and boredom, as pitch after pitch of easy stuff lies between you and getting off the bloody cliff when the crux interests are over.  This (probably unfair) opinion of big cliff routes couldn't be further from the truth at Dirc Mhor (its not actualy that big - which probably helps!).  Me below the Bastion at Dirc Mhor - Man With the Child in His Eeyes froms the steep right arete on the left of the face

With plans of cleaning up the three, three-star E5s in one visit, we were building oursleves up for a disappointment, opting to work left to right saw us starting with what turns out to be the hardest of the crags trilogy of classics, The Man With The Child in His Eyes.  On the crux pitch I found myself terrified and thinking "this is E6 surely" which I have been reliably told is a common assessment, thank god!  When the rope got stuck on the abseil, the big plans were put to rest but a return visit has been pencilled in.  My advice to anyone is - get yourselves there, a visit will be well rewarded.

Will Atkinson came close to the 2nd ascent of Malcolm Smith's desperately bouldery The Smiddy 8b+

In only returning to the Anvil project one day per weekend and not every weekend at that, I'm starting to get a little worried that I'm not going to get Metalcore before the 6 months of winter rain kick in.  If I believed in such things, I'd think too that there is something conspiring against my aspirations of 8c+ climbing.  First holds started breaking on Open Your Mind, now Metalcore too is proving no match for my body mass!  Thankfully the damage was repairable and both routes remain high on my agenda, if only the cash and time off were there to go get the sends.

The broken hold, safely caught before it smashed to smithereens...

I never seem to get very far with bouldering bit I do plan on making more of an effort this year, and try and learn a few things from Will, "I eat font 8A for breakfast" Atkinson along the way.  So far a few trips to Dumby have yielded a handful of pleasing ticks including the 3rd ascent of Le Saboteur which comes in at 8A+ and the complete trilogy of Will's 7C+ variations on Malky.  

Le Saboteur and Glasgow Kiss sends... sorry about the terrible video dimensions and soundtrack - I'm new to this stuff!?

A trip with the Sheffield ex-pats (Will and Dan Walker) to Queens Crag gave me a few problems to add to the project list.  They didn't stay on Will's ticklist for long though as his video below demonstrates.  The one man crush fest rolls on...

Furture Cassidy projects?..Queen Kong and Big Dragon beautifully demo'd by Will (video: Will Atkinson)

The September long weekend and fantastic break in the weather probably was my window to do Metalcore but instead I took a trip up to Reiff with Richard McGhee, who like me has re-found his love for trad climbing.  Gritstone has nothing on the Torridonian sandstone of the North West which, though it has similar friction, is much kinder on the skin.  Though the climbs are short it is easy to become absorbed in the pure unadulterated fun of the routes, the solitude and the sea air. All the better as well because you can pack a lot in to a day and you'd be unlucky to be queuing for a route.  We concentrated our efforts on day 1 at the Leaning Block cliff, where after ticking the classics; The Screamer, E4 6a and The Gift E5 6a,I turned my attention to Gary Latter's Otto E7 6b.  The view from the clifftop

The fantastic wall of The Screamer (chalked), The Gift is the left arete.

Unfortunately I found myself underequipped with cams for this essentially safe but hard E7.  Managing to reverse from about half way, I preserved the attempt at the clean ascent for my next visit, hopefully sooner rather than later.  Too much wine that night meant that day 2 was a little slow to get started but a great day ticking away at the Seal Song area just gave me the taste for getting back as soon as possible for some harder stuff.  I did manage to salvage something relatively hard out of the day, climbing The Mystic which is either the softest E6 6b in the book or a rather cool E5 arete in the grit ilk.  

It's the BLCC this weekend at Ratho, a regular fixture in my calendar. For some reason I seem to be one of the few people who really enjoys competitions whether I do well or not.  It's a real shame that more people don't enter this comp as potentially it could be a fantastic big event and an opportunity for lots of British climbers to get together, enjoy some cool routes, try hard and talk shop... maybe one day people will get over the "I´m not doing it, I'm not climbing well enough" attitude and just come have a go... FOR FUN!

?

Mushrooms, the key to Will's powers??

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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What happened there then?
15 October 2010, 4:15 pm

Synopsis of my BLCC´s last weekend:  Made final, with 2 top outs.  I felt good apart from a lingering cough and cold from too much physical labour in the damp west of Scotland and perhaps in the best form prior to a comp I've ever been in.  The final route was exactly what I would have wanted, a pump fest.  Half way out the roof I felt amazing, relaxed and confident.  Two seconds later, I botched the sequence in a confused panic, an unplanned change to the sequence I had read from the ground.  All because one of the holds wasn't as good as I had expected... if only I had gone for it in the pre-planned sequence, the result could have been oh so different.  Sob, sob, sob.

My frustration at the result is my own problem though.  Massive congratulations must go out to the new generation who showed everyone how it is done: Ed Hamer, Luke Tilley, Jonathan Field, Nathalie Berry and Kitty Wallace - I salute you all.  I hope the dire state of senior competitions in Britain doesn't put you off competing.  

As for me, and to quote Patxi in the film Progression:  "The future will be mine.  The future; will be mine!"

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Bit by bit, day by day... 8c+ in 2010?
23 October 2010, 3:30 pm

Metalcore... I've gotta do this thing.... I'm getting closer and closer but still no cigar and the Scottish weather window gets tighter and tighter.  Please, please, pretty please...

I made the best links ever last weekend but just couldn't quite get the tick (Photo: Murdoch Jamieson)?

The new Glasgow strong man Dan Walker sampling the magnificent Spitfire 8a+ (Photo: Murdoch Jamieson)

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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How Close is Close?
29 October 2010, 1:23 pm

Sometimes in climbing we say we are close to our projects when we do all the moves for the first time.  Sometimes it might be a significant back link, overlapping sections or a fall from the last bolt or the last hard move.  And sometimes we fall with the last hold in our hands!  

Metalcore has now gone beyond the realms of being a possibility into the horrible purgatory of having essentially been done (twice in the same day) but not DONE done.  Last Sunday presented me with the ultimate low-humidty, crisp, autumnal, weekend-day that Argyll only throws up once in a blue moon and I was fit and raring to go.

After battling with the cold to get going, the first proper redpoint was amazing, the route never feeling so within my abilities.  The disappointment?  On the 1st and 3rd redpoints I actually had my hand in the penultimate handhold, with only a step up onto a good foot rail left to do to clinch victory.  Yet still I failed to seal the deal.  Why?

Firstly, the move is super-tenuous - a slippery heel hook at the limit of its usefullness calls upon all your body tension to stop it ripping out (which was what happened both times).  Secondly, I am prone to that last minute rush of blood to the head, over excitement as the goal looms large that strikes many people, in many sports.  The composure to see the task through to the end before relaxing is, I've come to realise, one of the biggest factors affecting my performance (or at least getting things done in good time).  I wonder what techniques sport's psychology has to combat this....  

Dont Celebrate Too Early - Watch more Funny Videos

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Bouldering Inspiration with the Unsung Strongmen...
3 November 2010, 8:45 pm

With some sadness I think my chances of 8c+ in 2010 have now washed away.  The last visit saw thick mist, run-off water streaming down the face and near on 100% humidty leading to a horrible film of condesation everywhere else.  Maybe the weather will turn again, but it's not looking likely.  At least I have a big insentive to train this winter.  2011 could be a good year!

For now my attention will be turning to bouldering, trying to get stronger and catch up with Will before his ego runs away with him.  ;-)  Believe it or not he wasn't happy with this little haul (of which I am very jealous) highlighted in his fantastic new video:

Fontainebleau October 2010 from Will Atkinson on Vimeo.

Inspiration...

Anyway my main motivation to write this week is to highlight some comings and goings in other parts of the Scottish scene (as part of a more regular theme I wish to incorporate into this blog).   This time I want to highlight the inspiration I can take from a couple of Scotland's strongest training beasts as I embark on my journey into the strange world of climbing the little rocks.

Gary Vincent and Mark McQuade, 2 guys I have known from a very young age, are well-known for there epic feats of strength in the bouldering wall and in Mark's case in particular the campus board.  However, these guys can cut it on the rocks too, with Mark having repeated Dave Macleod's problem Sanction, 8B, among other things and Gary having the world famous Chris Sharma problem The Mandala, 8A+ in his collection.  

Gary Vincent on the Mandala V12 (Photo: Vincent Coll.)

They have just returned from a productive trip to Magic Wood and I have been catching up with Mark to find out what went down....

They started their trip like they meant to go on with a day 1 haul, that most people would be satisfied with as trip highlights: both  sent Coté De Seshuan 7C+ and Massive Attack 8A (Mark got this 3rd go!) and Gaz also did Supernova 7C (Mark had done this on another trip last year).

2 days later and both boys had done Unendliche Geshicte II (the Never Ending Story part 2) 8A which was sent by Gaz in one session, while Mark had also tried it the previous year.  Gaz also did Octopussy 8A in one session a few days later.  Mark's best day included an in-an-hour tick of the impressive Sofa Surfer 8A+  (he felt it was more top end 8A) and then Octopussy straight after wards (3rd day of trying it).

But really that was just the warm-up.  The guys had their sights set much higher and focused on getting a "big tick" each.  Gaz opted for trying One Summer in Paradise 8B, and Mark for Steppenwolf 8B.  Mark was frustratingly close to the send on the first day falling off the top sloper 3 times.  A feeling I know only too well this month!  Gaz came stupidly close to his project too, failing at the final easy move on the problem after seemingly losing his head and using the wrong foot beta. (Is there something in the Scottish water?)  Both guys could not have really been any closer to getting their goal problems when heavy rain and snow wrote Magic Wood off.

Nice video by Haroun Souirji showing Zach Lerner on Steppenwolf, Magic Wood

Future plans? Gaz is very psyched to get on Sanction and for Mark, its all about Monk Life, Malc Smith's Kyloe 8B+.  Nice one lads!

One day Mark is going to pull Kyloe down with those arms!  (Photo: McQuade Coll)

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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News Just In...
8 November 2010, 6:24 pm

I've heard word on the grapevine that Gordon Lennox has repeated New Statesman at Ilkley, which is a very inspirational tick.  New Statesman has to be one of the best grit lines there is and looks extremely scary.  Quality effort!  It really is nice to be able to highlight some action coming from the North East scene too.  Aberdeen has a number of strong inspiring guys like Lennie, Tim Rankin and Ally Coull who are out there getting it done without all the fanfare.  To me it feels like they aren't given the credit they deserve on Scottish Climbs which is a shame as it is the Scottish climbing news site after all.   Lennie and Tim have a trad ticklist I'm very envious of and I'm really keen to go check out some of their FA's on the Aberdeen coast and Ally is one of Scotland's most prolific sport climbers, with 8b+ in the bag.  So guys I salute you!  

Other repeats news, this time in the more familiar Central Belt form, is the 4th ascent of Le Saboteur by Robin Sutton.  I have the feeling that this problem will go on to have a flood of ascents this winter just as happened with Sabotage.  Deservedly so too, it is a truly fantastic problem.

As for me, the bouldering phase took 2 trips to The County where I ticked a few things and added to my to do list a few more....

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Look Mum I'm in a Video!
9 November 2010, 9:26 pm

A little post for the 1/5th of my readership (mum) who isn't also a Facebook friend.  Here is a great liitle video (shame about the ugly bloke climbing) made by Mikey Jeans.  The video can be watched, by those of you with better video cards than me, in beautiful HD which really shows off what a fantastic day it was and just how nice the rock is at Bowden (although for how long?).  

Mikey Jeans - "The Director"

"The Alan Cassidy Show" by Mikey Jeans

In the next few days or so I will be adding a page to this blog completely unrelated to climbing on a topic which is dear to my heart... don't worry it's not politics, religion or football.  It's all about biscuits!

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Updates - CragX Shop
24 November 2010, 6:52 pm

The big news here at Cassidy towers is that the kind people at (the excellently stocked) CragX in Sheffield have kindly offered to team up with me to help me out with some of my hardware needs.  You will notice a CragX tab at the top of the page and please click through to check out the great online shop where you will be able to get your hands on the best kit your hard earned sterling can buy!  I will also be highlighting any offers and reviewing items available in the shop on the shop page.  A big thanks to Iain at CragX for this.

Fighting with Open Your Mind earlier this year (Photo: Dan Walker)

I had bad news relayed to me from my old haunt of Santa Linya.  Open Your Mind, the 8c+ I was very close to repeating back in easter has broken and now is much harder. This is a real blow as I had hoped to return for this route in 2011.  This route has however lived up to its name and opened my mind to going for projects at grades I never really imagined to be realistic for me.  Hopefully, even if I never get this route, there will be other 8c+s out there for me.  

As the cold snap sets in, I at least have a trip to El Chorro to look forward to.  This trip will be a great opportunity to keep my hand in on the hard rock routes while I patiently wait for another crack at Metalcore in the spring.  Normally I go away on short trips hoping for a big haul of routes in the 8a-8a+ range but this time I'm going more with the idea of trying to get a route with a bigger number ticked.  I'm not going to make any predictions but I did onsight my first 7b+ in El Chorro, so I have a good history with the place. :-) We shall see...

Julie Pearson on The Silk Purse 7c+ Dunkeld (Photo: Fraser Harle)

Finally, I'd like to highlight another Scottish climber who is really impressing at the moment with her motivation and comittment.  Julie Pearson can be regularly seen burning off most of the blokes at Ratho and I have learned that she has recently climbed the quintessential classic of its grade in Scotland, The Silk Purse 7c+, joining the very short list of Scots women to have done so.  (I'm not sure whether the list extends beyond the equally impressive Jo George and April Marr).  Well done Julie!  I'm sure, judging by the way you're climbing, that 8a is just round the corner.

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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The Return to Spain
18 December 2010, 4:14 pm

I'm writing from a bar, cowering away from the dreich grey skys that are beginning to put a dampner (literally) on the spirits which were so high after the first 2, very successful days, in El Chorro.  At least the cervezas have been well deserved.  I came with 1 objective in mind, to climb Cous Cous a stunning line on the Makinodromo sector which I had eyed up on my last trip here 5 years ago.  I never imagined I'd ever be good enough to climb such a route, let alone do it in a day.  If I take the guide book grade of 8c, then this is my first 8c "in-a-day" and marks a major milestone in my climbing.  

If the rain continues, the digs have a wall we can train on!!

The famous entrance to El Chorro

Whether it's a hard 8b+ or an 8c, doesn't really matter at the end of the day, this is one of the best sport climbs I have done and will be long in the memory.

Not wanting to rest on my laurels I have a new project, Que Trabaje Randy clipped up and worked out for a redpoint attempt after a rest day.  I only hope the rain doesn't last too much longer....

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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"Another Tick in the Book"
30 December 2010, 8:31 pm

The Chorro invasion continues...

 

The Chouchter invasion of Chorro!!!

Ah 15 degrees! - Warming up, for the send (Photo: Sam Walker)

"Another tick in the book" seems to be my catchphrase.  As a discerning collector of grade 8 routes, I have to be pleased with a haul of 12 "guidebook" 8s in 14 days away yet I still feel like I should have got more done.  Bad weather, rain and high humidity, meant my next 8c project, Que Trabaje Randy, (after Cous Cous) was permanently out of nick.  Indeed the clip retreival mission might have been harder than the actual route!  With the tufas of Makinodromo sector never drying out, it was a case of making the most of the things that were do-able.  Classics like Swimming Through a Shark Attack and its 8b extension, remained possible as long as you disn't mind the odd wet hold and a mid route shower.

Enjoying having survived a Shark Attack 8b (Photo: Ross Henighen)

I felt like I was climbing well, perhaps my best ever and with a few more 8's ticked my mind turned to a lifetime ambition tick of 8b onsight.  I had identified a soft-touch target at Chorro that I knew would suit me; fulfilling all my favourite criteria: very, very long (45m at least), tufa-y, blobby and not a hard 8b by all accounts.  Though it had a few wet tufas, reading from the ground they didn't seem to interfere too much and happily that turned out to be the case.  I wont bore you with the blow by blow account except for recounting the epic I had at the last bolt, thinking it was in the bag only to be faced with a long move off a small slopey crimp. Up-down-up-down I went until finally I was convinced that it was indeed this horrible little thing I had to pull on.  Summoning everything I had for one last pull, it was a relief when the next hold turned out to be better than it looked.  Job done! El Oraculo in the bag.  Maybe it's only 8a+, but it felt like I gave 8b's worth of effort and the mental door has been opened onto doing more in the future.  An important big step!

El Camino del Rey (GradeXS 2b?) - A different way to spend Christmas day!

Celebrating with a bit of "Bandaloop dancing" (Photo: Sam Walker)

The rum came out, the dancing began and I don't (want to) remember too much else about that.

Rum is bad news

3 numpties walk-in. (Photo: Sam Walker)

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Gri-Gri 2; Have you got yours?
3 February 2011, 7:04 pm

I think I'm not alone in being someone who used to say "Petzl should bring out a smaller Gri-Gri for thin ropes".  Well, now they have and its very sleek, light and sexy.  The name?  Gri-Gri 2 of course!



Crag X have these at a ridiculous cheap, not to be beaten, price of only £60!!  You can access this (and many others) fantastic offer through the following link:  GRI-GRI 2

I might also add that the original GRI-GRI is selling at bargain basement £43.50 at Crag X too and is still as useful today as it always was, despite the advent of its little brother.

Finally I'd like to draw attention to the availability of the 5.10 Jet7 which I wore extensively and to great effect on my recent trip to Spain.  In an age when shoe prices are going through the roof, these are selling at an amazing £56.17!  I'll be buying myself a new pair anyway!



 

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Où est la motivation?
4 March 2011, 2:21 pm

Climbing has seemed like the number one thing in my life since a very young age.  Motivation always ebbs and flows but I've not known a period of such a dip in motivation in quite some time.  The fire that usually burns so furiously in my belly became little more than a few smouldering embers about 3 or 4 days into my January trip to Fontainebleau.

Losing the will...  Attempt c100! Magic Bus 7B Photo: Jen Randall

The more I tried to analyse the siruation the worse it got. I'd just achieved a dream PB onsight, busted out one of the most inspiring 8c's I've done to date and I was in one of the World's greatest bouldering areas with a great bunch of people. So what bites?  I was dissapointed, yes, to not climb as hard as I had wanted to in Font but there were a number of factors going against top performance on the trip to excuse this (at least a little).  My general dissatisfaction ran deeper.  I guess that in looking forward, in to 2011 and beyond, I just couldn't see where so many of the other things in life were going and climbing ceased to seem all that important.

 

You'd think an 8c climber could climb Rubis Sur L'Ongle 7B+ (aye right!) Photo: Tom Mills

I've given a lot to pursuing my goals, yet in a way that is not self sustaining. I gave up the "regular" career path in pursuit of hard climbing, yet not worked hard enough at creating the lifestyle that makes it last. My "ostrich" approach has stretched my grades quite far, but athletically I know I have more in me, (I'm not exactly puritanical when it comes to diet and training). But what hopes of bigger numbers, when you can't pay for the necessary trips or everyday life for that matter?

 

Success!!! ? 7a Buthiers Photo: Jen Randall

January and February's climbing has just been about "ticking over" because I know I should.  I've slipped away a bit, but I needed to.  Although I'm still not sure about what I'm working towards beyond Metalcore, the 1st of March has been a milestone to get back on the training bandwagon.  Enough pontificating, more action required.  There is, afterall, unfinished business at the Anvil!    

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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I was lost, but now I'm found...
11 March 2011, 11:42 am

RIGHT!  This late kick start to 2011 is in full swing and I've decided I need to get stronger.  I guess this is the usual mindset for most climbers, at least in the UK where strength and bouldering is the thing that seems to get the most interest at the climbing walls and in the media.  I'm one of these people who prefers a long duration forearm burn for a workout as opposed to repetitive failing on the same grim desperate move over and over.  BUT, you can only get so good ignoring your weaknesses and pure strength is mine.  It is clearly time to address this so I can guarantee eeking out an extra grade or two in my route climbing.

Last week there was a strange orb in space with an orangey colour and a pleasant radiance.  I saw it a lot when I lived in Spain, seems like I haven't seen it in a while!  My climbing spirits have once again been stirred and with the sun out it seemed like as good a time to start the quest for power outside on some rock.  I have set myself a goal over the next few weeks of trying to do as many Font 7Cs as possible, weather and skin permitting, to form a basis to move upwards from.  

A previous attempt many moons ago - Precious 7c (Photo: John Watson)

Those of you in posession of John Watson's Stone Country guides may be familiar with photos of a problem known as Precious in Glen Croe.  This is a brilliant steep prow on good rock (this fact is not done justice in the photos as the wall to the right is somewhat scruffy) which I hadn't ever finished off and seemed like a good place to start.  What I thought was going to be a quick send turned out to be a bit of an epic with two lessons learned.  1) Lichenous mica schist boulders, can be very slippy after rain.  2) Take a short rope AND/OR a brush on a stick to clean up said boulders if they haven't seen much traffic.  I got the situation sorted on day 2 after spending a first day of hard effort denied by all manner of slips and slides on the finishing moves.  

Lovely textured sloper - Precious

A few days later it was a day trip to sunny Kyloe-Out for the in-vogue (among the Scot's anyway) Northern Territory.  I had pulled on to this once or twice a few weeks ago without making much effort (I couldn't handle the sub-zero temps) but it felt more or less like a quick 1 session effort, all be it with the advantage of all the beta courtesey of messers McNair, Phillips and Atkinson. Although a guide book 7c+, I'd suggest more likely 7c when you know whats going on. I followed that up with a levelling on the infamous Yorkshireman at Kyloe-In - I simply can't get my massive meat hooks in that top crack.  SO SO FRUSTRATING - damned genes!  

Nice day in the Northern Territory 7c (Photo: Mikey Jeans)

Oh and I also got to see the beast that is Mark McQuade trying Monk Life, 8b+ - very impressive and makes my quest for a few piddly 7c's seem all rather pathetic!

And finally...

I have been asked by a producer at STV to spread the word about auditions for a new show they are making. Here are the details:  



New Series About Scotland's Great Outdoors

We’re casting people for a new documentary series which celebrates Scotland’s great outdoors, especially the Highlands. We’re looking for people who have a strong connection with the great outdoors, especially in areas such as hillwalking, climbing, mountain biking, and so on. Applicants should be extremely outgoing, have an extensive knowledge of the Scottish landscape and feel comfortable on camera.

For more information email derek.stuart@stv.tv

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Jutified & Ancient
11 April 2011, 9:33 pm

The first 3 months of this year left me feeling out of shape and with reduced confidence in my ability to send hard routes but thankfully I seem to have turned things back around more quickly than I thought I might. 2 weekends ago I had my first trip to Malham in about 2 years and decided to test myself on the UKs most popular 8c, Unjustified. I had tried this route 1 day several years ago and couldn't make head nor tail of the crux move. Thankfully I am a bit stronger these days and after a bit of huffing and puffing it came together quite quickly. But feeling fat and weak compared to where I was in December, psychologically I wasn't ready to put a big effort in for a redpoint that weekend and was happy to come away with an overlapping-in-2-sections link.

On the hottest weekend of the year so far, 2 weeks later, it was back to Malham and a severe test of patience, sitting out a whole day, awaiting the evening's shade, while the rest of the squad were getting stuff done. Luckily being patient paid off this time and I got the route ticked on my 3rd redpoint. Happy days!

Unjustified is a, justifiably popular route and, the UK being the UK, is subject to a lot of controversy regarding grades, down climbs and a whole host of other crap. And that's before we talk about its earlier format as Justified & Ancient.  So here is my take on it....

Regarding style of the ascent, I climbed the route clipping every clip (apart from the one I skipped) from the first to the chain inclusive.  Many people start with a pre-clip of the chain of the 7b, which Unjustified extends, having down climbed from there. For me this is an old-school and out-dated practice out of keeping with world sport-climbing ethics and completely unnecessary - surely clipping the clips on a 7b isn't that exhausting if you climb 8c. The real issue for me is that doing so amounts to top-roping half the length of the whole route and doesn't equate to a "lead" at all in my mind.  I can sense certain people now getting rubbed up the wrong way!  I don't want to piss people off in saying this and I have huge respect for everyone I know to have climbed this route, they are all great climbers AND have, as far as I can tell, been honest about their ascents.  At the end of a day we climb for ourselves, there is no pay day for climbing this route, just personal satisfaction and we all get that in different ways.

However, it is interesting to take a look at what constitutes a "valid" ascent. I find it unusual that such a practice is even really considered as appropriate here. For me a 1st bolt pre-clip is fair but rarely necessary unless it involves a dangerous start or an impossible clip. It is reasonable to extend these criteria to 2 or possibly 3 clips depending on the bolting etc. Beyond that, for me just isn't cricket... but we all make our own choices.

Another controversy, the chain clip... I would always choose to clip the chains from a hold but many people don't and again this comes down to honesty and your own personal choices. A lot of the time it makes no difference, but sometimes it does. For the record, yes, I grabbed the chain on Raindogs.

Finally the grade...

Because a route is popular does not necessarily mean it is over graded. It is a real shame that people's hard work and achievements are stripped of them because they are not perceived of as being among the "strong". It is this very attitude of giving hard routes too much respect that holds the general level back in this country. I think that on the continent people are more inclined to try harder routes, whether they are a "somebody" or a "nobody" and this drags the whole community along.

On a different note, I tire of hearing how "soft" European routes are compared to here in the UK. There like here there are certain routes that are hard for the grade and certain routes that are easy for the grade. Being my first UK 8c (I have yet to do an 8b+ on UK limestone for that matter) and I can't say where it fits in relative to the rest of the UK's hard routes but comparing with what I have done abroad, Unjustified would be in the bottom end of my personal list of 8c's thus far ticked.  I'll reserve any further judgement for now.

The main thing is... it's a great route, justifiably popular and worth a go. Good luck to everyone trying it in 2011 in whatever style they wish.

         

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Sun, Sea & Sand
6 May 2011, 8:24 pm

Late me take you on a journey through time and space... to the world of the Mighty North West

Seeing to the sausages as the sun sets over Gruinard bay (Photo: Dan Walker)

It really has been a busy last 3 weeks. I have hardly found time to sit down and write a post between trips northwards. The stable weather, Easter bank holiday and royal wedding, seemed to coincide perfectly to allow midge free climbing in the North West which, in the kind of weather we have had, seems more like a desert Caribbean island than the usual damp and dreary west of Scotland we often have to put up with.

 



Rob Sutton and Dan Walker deploying the big guns to rapidly send Stolen 8b (Photo: Dan Walker coll)

The first trip north was a weekend with Rob Sutton, Tony Stone and Dan Walker in Glen Nevis. The focus was Steall Hut on the first day with Rob coming within a cat's whisker of sending a damp Stolen, a contender for the UKs best 8b. For my part I was battling with Scotland's answer to Magnetic Fields at Malham, The Gurrie, a new, bouldery, 8a+ and not succeeding; a bump back to Earth after the previous weekend.

Eventually sticking the crux of The Gurrie, 8a+ (Photo: Dan Walker)

We then headed up to Sky Pilot on the Sunday, where I managed to finish off Beatleback ,7C and a couple of other thing and introduced Dan and Rob to one of Scotland's better bouldering spots. We were treated to a display of power by Mr Macleod in the evening, trying his project that was to become 7 of 9, 8B+. The latter problem looks amazing; I'd love to try it. Guess I'll just have to get a damn sight stronger!

Last hard move of Beatleback (Photo: Dan Walker)

The next weekend was a real breath of fresh air and at times a real scorcher! Returning, to Steall with Dan and Rob on the Friday, we all managed to dispense with our respective projects and Stolen had another 2 votes behind its 4* status.

Tog Balla at Am Fasgadh, Limestone never looked so Gneiss! (Photo: Will Atkinson)

It was then to Am Fasgadh and Goat Crag for some Gneiss, sport climbing. Amazing rock, wide open spaces, silver sands, and a brace of high quality routes up to 7c+ make these crags in Gruinard a new addition to my top ten favourite UK climbing locations. In fact it was so good we went back for a day the next weekend en route to Torridon. Props to the locals for all their hard efforts in creating these venues, not least Paul Tattersal.

Who need's Ryanair for bolts and beaches! (Photo: Will Atkinson)The route highlights for me being the trio of Am Fasgadh 7c's - Black Sox, Primo and Tog Balla, the stunning Goat Crag Prow 7c+ and MacTalla, possibly the best 7a+ I have ever done (!), certainly in the UK if not anywhere. On the return visit, this most recent weekend I even got my wires out and enjoyed myself of Twilo Thunder, which comes in at a very friendly E6.

The final piece of the North West odyssey was a trip to Torridon, which already has a justifiably large fan club to which I will now be subscribing. I was accompanied by Dan again, Mikey Jeans and Lukasz Warzecha, who was keen to get photos. Lukasz was truly in luck. The clear starry sky’s would have been a delight in themselves, but the drama of Torridon going up in flames meant he got some truly jaw dropping shots, some of which can be seen on his blog so be sure to check them out. Take note of the one taken as we packed up out tents at 3am when the fire brigade decided it was time to evacuate the campsite!

My phone struggled to handle the shear scale of what unfolded in Torridon: the fires chasing up the hill after midnight.

Sadly the fire tore through the Celtic Jumble, creating an almost lunar landscape and making the ship boulder look even more like the Jawa's vehicle in Star Wars. Prior to the fire, the heat of the day meant that hardcore bouldering wasn't on the menu amongst the Celtic Jumble, however in the shade below Seanna Mhellan, Dan and I were both able to appreciate the stunning problem, The Essence, a 7B+ of the highest order of quality. It was a pleasure to repeat it multiple times for the camera.

Up on Seanna Mhellan, the afternoon conditions were not conducive to trying Dave Mac's Kolus which quite frankly looks like the scariest E8 of its type I have ever seen. The crag is like an amplified Stanage, double, or triple the height and with rock of a far superior quality - yes you read that right. We contented ourselves with a fun little E2 and agreed that Kolus would have to be attempted... err... another time!

NOW - It's Metalcore time!!

?

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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Back to Old Habits
14 May 2011, 8:35 am

Well done William!

I think it is safe to say that Will Atkinson has done a lot for climbing at Dumbarton in the time he has been living up here.  Numerous new problems, repeating everything, keeping the faith and inspiring others to push themselves to try harder things.  He has now capped that all off with a ground-up ascent of Requiem.  I hope this will inspire others to go enjoy one of the best pieces of trad climbing anywhere, a route with real international importance and put up by an all time legend, Dave Cuthbertson.

Will attempting Requiem (Photo: David Brigham)

On the same night I managed to find a spoiler sequence which got me up Thoroughbred which is the latest trendy tick now that almost everyone has done Sabotage.  My Spanish route beast beta, might drop the grade a bit though.

Otherwise Scotland is back to normal.  Showers, sunshine, torrential rain, wind, hail, snow, midges, humidity.  Such a dissapontment after a month of amazing rock climbing opportunities.  I tried to go do Metalcore last weekend, cycling in with the intentions of a sustained bout to finally kill this thing off, only to be dissapointed to find the whole crag covered in a film of condensation.  I then wrote the rest of the weekend off with too much beer!

With squally showers forecast there isn't much hope of Metalcore action this week either.  Frustration!  At least it gives me some more time to get in to shape.  My internal dialogue is a real battle at the moment between the half that wants to knuckle down and get serious about athletic discipline and the hedonistic side which wants to spoil it all.  I think it's time for an ultimatum - "no fun 'til the routes are done".

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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What is Yorkshire? (Part 1)
16 June 2011, 9:39 pm

....Yorkshire is a state of mind.

Once upon a time in Yorkshire, this blogger, Robin Sutton and Malcolm Smith decided to try a route on the North Buttress of Kilnsey.  That route was True North and is graded the magical grade of 8c.  The hardest grade imaginable in 1990.  The grade of Agincourt, the grade on the poster above my bed, the one in place of the football line-ups that decorated the walls of my mate's rooms.  The thing that made me different.  A bit of rock, with a number.  Massive moves on holds for only one finger, a million miles from the routes my Dad was taking me up at Polney crag every weekend.  How exciting to finally think I too could be like Ben Moon.

Malcolm sent the route, no surprises there, with the efficiency expected of an international rock star.  Rob and I needed more time.  We didn't lack commitment.  M8, M74, M6, A65... up and down, up and down.  Round and round the Glasgow 45 board, 40 move circuits midweek.  We got fit. We each came within a move.  Next time we reasoned.  M8, M74, M6, A65... WETNESS!  Weeks of wetness, months of wetness, years of wetness.  I gave up.  Rob had 2 kids.  I moved to Spain, climbed 8c, knowing I could thanks to True North,but it was always there needing finished.

My younger self trying True North in 2007 (Photo Copyright: Pete O'Donovan)

Fast forward to 2011 and it was time for Rob and I to take up the gauntlet again.  We booked some days of work, committed ourselves and got it done.  Rob, requiring a fair few goes less than I, showed just what a beast he is.  Inspired I pulled my finger out and got it done in less than perfect conditions, drying holds before attempts and getting resourceful in my hold drying methods (I might be looking for a tampon sponsor).  

True North is now my 6th (or 7th) route graded 8c and I think it fits in quite neatly among routes like Rollito-Sharma Extension in terms of difficulty (i.e. low/mid 8c).  It is far from horrendous move by move but a pumpy power endurance test when summed together.  Having ticked True North I got thinking about Unjustified again.  I think Adam Ondra eluded clearly to his opinion about the grade when he commented on Bat Route and he isn't alone in thinking the route is soft.  I knew at the time I did it that it all went too easy to be 8c given my form at the time and True North, by no means a hard 8c confirms it; Unjustified is a good grade easier.  If Cry Freedom remains at 8b+ then even that grade may seem a bit much.

The glory move to the final jugs leading in to Urgent Action (Photo copyright Pete O'Donovan)

So there we go, somebody has done it, stepped up to take the flack and (with no malice intended) shatter a few egoes.  Maybe I'm wrong and it sure as hell doesn't matter one bit.  It is still a fantastic climb and still just a bit of rock with an arbitary and subjective number attached to it just like True North, just like Agincourt...

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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What is Yorkshire? (Part 2)
1 July 2011, 5:20 pm

Yorkshire is more than Malham and Kilnsey....

Stu Cobra Lyall Cruisin For A Bruisin 7b (Photo: Dan Walker)

Pushing yourself on hard projects is great but for the tick-aholic there is nothing better than turning up at a new crag and getting stuff done. With the pressure off after completing True North and the so called summer still not happening trips to the Yorkshire limestone continue to seem like one of the most likely ways to climb dry rock of a weekend.

Possible kneebar, Love Sculpture (Photo: Dan Walker)

A Glaswegian raiding party was assembled and set off down the all too familiar M74 with big plans for success. Modern fuel prices make every tick that little more expensive and adds an extra reason to get the most out of every weekend trip.

Going through the sequence before the redpoint of Pegged Out (Photo: Dan Walker)?

Having a sunny Saturday forecast and sensing it to be dry down there, we agreed to check out Yew Cogar for a day of something different. Having never been before I was keen to see how a Yorkshire tufa measured up and while this is no Rodellar or Kalymnos, the rock at the right hand end of the crag reminded me (minus the humungous cave and 20m of extra length) of La Balme de Yenne, my most local quality crag when I was based in Lyon. The prickly tufas of Cruisin for a Bruisin and Vorsprung Durch Technique were great fun to climb despite being over all too soon.

Biceps Guy 2.0 on Vorsprung Durch Tecnik 7c+ (Photo: Dan Walker) Despite the odd frustration a great day was had away from the crowds. We were joined by a certain Mr McHaffie who was fantastic to watch in action. I could really do with a dose of Caf staying power and tenacity the next time I don my trad rack - impressive stuff.

Reviewing the sequence after the redpoint of Pegged Out - a lot more sketchy! (Photo: Dan Walker)I was quite pleased with my own day mind you, drawing 2 routes closer to another major milestone, my 200th grade 8. No doubt I would have reached that number last year had I not returned from Spain, the gross slow down in my 8 ticking rate reminds me of how difficult it is to get sport climbing volume in the UK in general and in Scotland in particular, especially if you can’t afford or don’t have the time for a lot of foreign holidays.

It's down there somewhere! (Photo: Dan Walker)?

Not put off by the trudge out, a return visit will definitely be on the cards. I’d love to lay claim to the quair of Vickers' routes, though from what I have heard the 8a and the 8b+ might not give themselves up as easily as Pegged Out and Love Sculpture.

Kilnsey Crag - ahhhhhhhh! (Photo: Dan Walker)

A rainy Sunday forecast provided a good excuse for a return to Kilnsey in search of the next big personal project. I really feel it’s time to raise my game after building a good base of 8c’s now. Although I was so close to Metalcore last year, the UK weather and my previous experience with True North has led me to believe that it is worth having a few project options at any one time if you want to be guaranteed a big tick or two in any one year. (The other alternative being giving up your job, but I still haven’t got that one sussed).

Chris Savage who has been crushing his way through the Yorkshire limestone was happy to give away all the crucial beta on Progress which was an important head start. Chris has now dispatched the route in impressive time. Nice one Chris. Watching him on it made me wince at how weak my fingers are in comparison as he chalked up on the little crimps from which the the 3rd clip is clipped. The fact I can’t take a hand off at this point gave me a clear indication of the training I need to do to get this route done either crimp like a disease or embrace the ground fall and keep climbing…. what a choice!

Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

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What is Yorkshire?  The Final Chapter?
8 July 2011, 7:22 pm

I mentioned in my last blog post that I had started trying Progress at Kilnsey and that Chris Savage had just climbed the route.  Well now there is a video and I'm even more dismayed at how easy he makes it all look!  I'm going to mumble something about it being easy if you're tall, skinny, southern, got a new born baby.... aye OK, basically he's just pretty good.  If you want to know how I don't look on this route, try this video for size:

Yorkshire love doesn't stop at making regular visits to the furthest county you can get from Scotland before feeling out of place.  Yorkshire has also had a massive impact in climbing closer to home.  When Yorkshire comes to Scotland, you know about it!

Will puts his tiny arms to good effect at Kilnsey (Photo: Dan Walker)

A few years ago now a very tall man, with a cheeky grin and strong fingers appeared in the basement of Glasgow Climbing Centre and started flashing everything.  He then went out to Dumbarton and made the place his own in a way nobody else has since King Dave left for pastures new (apart from Malcolm of course).  That man is Will Atkinson, top geezer, sometimes an affront to the senses, always a laugh and always 6 inches stronger than me.  The impact Will has had on Dumbarton climbing extends beyond the surprisingly large number of first ascents he was able to bag in his time in Glasgow.  Will's legacy will be the surge of collective psyche he brought to the Dumbarton scene.  A lot of people lost their usual antipathy towards the place thanks to his enthusiasm.

Will's toughest Dumby addition - a testament to the man - Mr Tickle Extension 8a+ (FA) from Will Atkinson on Vimeo.

Despite sounding a bit like an obituary, Will is not dead, just moving back to the white rose county.  As a mark of respect to the man  the myth (and with a nod to a Limmy sketch) , Glasgow threw a Yorkshire themed party.  It was a "reyt" success, there was real ale, a whippet and 4 Glasgow neds just to remind us where we were.  Good times.  Big Willy, we salute you!

Squint and you'd think it was a nightclub in Leeds

A ned and a Yorkshireman share the decks -  Dropping 100% Motown bombs



Source: Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing