UKBouldering.com

Powerplant (Read 4968 times)

Charlton Chestwig

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 60
  • Karma: +1/-0
Powerplant
July 26, 2011, 01:55:38 pm
Hi,

Just wondering how the sneeky kneebar works that is reported to make the overlap section a path?

Many thanks for any help you can provide!

CC

Ethan

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 415
  • Karma: +16/-1
#1 Re: Powerplant
August 11, 2011, 09:08:42 pm
Don't bother, its shit. Just pull hard and power on through it!

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9628
  • Karma: +264/-4

Johnny Brown

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11447
  • Karma: +695/-22
#3 Re: Powerplant
August 12, 2011, 11:52:07 am
All I know is its unusable without a decent kneepad setup.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8723
  • Karma: +628/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#4 Re: Powerplant
August 12, 2011, 11:59:06 am
I wore through the hessian on a piece of premium grade piece of Hugh McKay bedroom carpet with a sequence that involved swivelling 90 degrees on the kneebar making about 2 foot moves and 5 hand moves.

Towards the end this was the easiest section of the route. 

dave

  • Guest
#5 Re: Powerplant
August 12, 2011, 12:25:58 pm
Would you have faired a bit better with an axeminster or wilton? Maybe something designed for a hallway rather than a bedroom.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8723
  • Karma: +628/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#6 Re: Powerplant
August 12, 2011, 01:03:46 pm
Would you have faired a bit better with an axeminster or wilton? Maybe something designed for a hallway rather than a bedroom.

It lasted just long enough  ;D

Serpico

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1229
  • Karma: +106/-1
    • The Craig Y Longridge Wiki
#7 Re: Powerplant
August 12, 2011, 01:45:28 pm
Would it not be easier to permanently carpet the underside of the overlap than have everyone bringing individual bits of carpet to the crag? What's the community view on in-situ carpet?

dave

  • Guest
#8 Re: Powerplant
August 12, 2011, 01:53:42 pm
I'd like to see DMM destruction testing some shagpile before we make any descision on this.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#9 Re: Powerplant
August 12, 2011, 02:08:05 pm
Fucking hippies.

Johnny Brown

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11447
  • Karma: +695/-22
#10 Re: Powerplant
August 12, 2011, 02:30:04 pm
A few years ago I actually undertook some research, government funded no less (pdf here, p.31) , into carpet's durability when used for edge protection in rope access. I daresay the results could be extrapolated into the knee/rock interface. Our findings suggested carpet lacks the integrity to withstand localised wear when trapped between rope and rock. Canvas is far superior. Good to know your taxes aren't wasted isn't it? Durable canvas climbing kecks are of course available from Blox of Sheffield....

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal