[shark]

Weight 11.5-6

M Noon. Bolton complex. Board endurance set - went well
T. AM. Tor. Good temp. Hoped to start working project but undecut still loose so removed it for home re-assembly. Worked Rage direct twice. Good link. 20mins on weedkiller trav at end - did the last hard trav move for first time. Eve. Edge with Poppy. Progress on campus laddering. Boys both onsighted a 7a+ on TR for first time. 
W.
T. AM. Tor. Overcast but warm and very humid. Glued undercut on. Attempted Rage direct twice and got some good links. Reeve did Prow  .Bouldered Weedkiller trav getting first moves sorted. Eve Assisted 1armers
F. AM. Board Endurance set tweaked to be similar to Rage Direct and Bolton complexes.
S.  Jungle bashing / gardening
S.  AM Tor Good conditions but effectively partnerless. Got stuck into Weedkiller trav. 3 TR's on Sardine at midday. Eve. Shed 4 good Attempts at PE circuit and then assisted 1armers 

Good week overall but shame didn't get on Rage today but enjoyed working Weedkiller trav. Notably stronger on this than when I've played on it in the past.

[tommytwotone]

Nice one Shark!

STG: Tick all probs at Cliff up to 6c+ from new guide
LTG: Font 7b

M - My 33rd birthday, went to Sheff to try and climb but rained off. Met up with Plattsy     and had a very enjoyable Works session instead.

T - Back to work, surprise birthday dinner and cake in the evening and then attempted to train. Not easy when full of cake!
W - Night off
T - Almscliff after work, pottered about and felt a bit weak
F - Depot session, cleaned up a few of the outstanding bouldering league problems I'd left to do
S - Almscliff, good session if a bit tired. Knocked a few more off my list.
S - Peak day with mate who also had birthday this week, decided we'd try and solo out ages in routes. Top day out and I did 5 extra as he's 38!

All in all a great week, so happy to be back after what's seemed like a long while off due to social engagements / illnesses. Nice to climb with a few new peeps as well.

I'm also knocking off the booze for a few weeks (my birthday weekend was a bit too crazy), been really nice this weekend waking up without a hangover!

[Muenchener]

STG:  Alpine (sport) rock route >= 10 pitches, >= 6a
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes e.g. Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (anything: Fish probably unlikely)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M:
T: Kaisergebirge. Had planned to do a long easy route (15 pitch UIAA V) but went sport climbing instead due to unstable weather forecast. Ass kicked by Kaisergebirge rock style & grading.
W: Weights, office gym: Goblet squats, db snatches, shoulders, core
T: Bike to work 32km
F: pullups (max single set: 12), pressups, core
S: yoga
S: pullups, shoulder stability exercises, core

Lots of home/work stuff to deal with before school summer hols results in little chance for climbing-specific training. Take the opportunity instead to get some work in in the direction of more general balanced strength/fitness.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing due to bad back.
Tue. Back still bad.
Wed. Slight improvement in back.
Thu. Climbed Rockcity although back still aching.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Went to Clemmits out of the woods.Did various things which felt up to 7a but equally could be 5+.Nice day out.
Sun. Bike 2 hrs 30 mins 45 miles.

Better week than last week but not much.

[Luthor]

STG  - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - 
Tue     - CD Cornice. Wet, but got on a couple of things. Tired from previous week.
Wed     - Bouldering at The Works
Thurs   - Run before work. Lunchtime circuit session at The Works
Fri     -
Sat     - First visit to Kilnsey. Impressive crag! Did Smooth Torquer, really fun route.
Sun     - Bouldering at Caley.

Another good week

[jamiev]

Mon -
Tues - Cheedale cornice - Zippy's direct on Old Man River was soaking wet so couldn't go for redpoint. Did Further adventures in Greendale (hadn't done this before) and did Martial Music again.
Wed -
Thurs - 25 minute continuous general conditioning & core circuit.
and Rubicon bouldering / traversing - really muggy and slippery - couldn't use footholds on low traverse. Did middle>top traverse (20 moves) x 8 for route-style pump
Fri - 25 minute continuous general conditioning & core circuit.
Sat - Raven Tor early morning. Redpointed Sardine on 3rd go.
Sun -

Haven't been able to run for 2 weeks with a dodgy ankle, but seems ok to climb on. V happy with Sardine tick on sat.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

M: ill
T: 3x DB complex, 4m run, BM (pull-ups & one arm max hangs - best session yet). core & theraband
W: 1 mile swim
T: Bouldering at Notts wall
F: rest
S: Bouldering at the churnet
S: Should have gone surfing or climbing but elbow was feeling sore so 4.5m run, theraband, 3xDB complex & core

Quite a good week, feeling more hopeful that my aims aren't too ambitious, although I didn't get any more ticks at the weekend I am close on a number of problems.

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before - trip to ansteys planned for this weekend with Rupert. Super psyched to see how CS feels afetr so long...

M - TCA after work. Warmed up on problems then had  go on Gaz's new 7b on the steep circuit board. Got in 2 overlapping halves but failed to link, managed 3/4 of the way after a short rest so probably a good one to be lapping for fitness. Flashed Gaz's new 6c also on the steep board. Had a bit more rest then had a go on the main event, the white 7c+. Managed a new longest link from 15 to the end (27) so that is now done in 2 - both long links felt fine so hopefully it'll go next session!

Tu - Powerball at lunch - 10 mins alternating hands every 30 seconds
TCA after work. Warmed up on problems then got back on the white circuit. Linked from the start to 21, just 6 moves to go! Linked from 10 (the only semi rest) through to the end. Failed to Link the new orange 7b. Had a quick play on the campus board  and the woody to finish. Felt surprisingly strong campussing but only did easy laddering (1-3-5-7-match-5-3-1)

W - Powerball at lunch - 10 mins alternating hands every 30 seconds
TCA, planned easy aerocap session but ended up spending a session on black and white problems + extending my best link on the orange 7b (1-31, 8 moves off finishing)

Th - TCA session in the evening. Mostly problems but had a bash at the orange 7b and extended my highpoint by a couple of moves - still 5 from the end.

F - Rest

Sa - nice weather so had planned to go to gollums but got lured to TCA by a mate coming off an injury who wanted jugs! Managed a new highpoint on white circuit through to 25 from the start, a frustrating 2 moves from the finish! Refined foot sequence so should go next session

Su - Actual rock climbing!!  A surprisingly pleasant afternoon at cheddar. Retroflashed raw deal (soft 7a) then failed to RP Insatiable 7b+. Got all the moves and took some lobs so good 'head' practice but didn't pay enough attention to getting the top wired before starting my RPs. Going back on Thursday night to finish off...

Weight - average of 66.6Kg for the week so almost 1/2kg down on previous week. the odd 66 dead must have been a hydration issue but consistently int eh 66s this week and 66.1kg this morning.

[nai]

stg (season) Cry Of Despair.
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer

M -     first big garage session foot on campusing -
            1-3-5-5-3-1-1= 1 rep taking 30s.
            4 sets of 3.5 reps (1:45), resting 2mins then rest 8-10 mins.
            Repeat 4 times.
            Destroyed.  Was failing at 1min last few sets.

t  quite tired (in a nice way) and creaky fingers (not nice)
w - rest ahead of....
T - Cornice, tried CoD but the wet undercut put paid to a sole redpoint attempt, did find a better rest with the help of Mark's beta and sured up sequences.
F - garage - foot on campusing
5-4-3-2-1-1-2-3-4-5-5 =1 rep
sets of 5 took about a minute. Rest 1 minute
Repeat 4 times then rest 5 minutes.
Repeat 4 times= 16 sets, 800 hand moves
Failed rep 45 of 15th set and 48 of 16th set - good workout

s&s away visiting friends so no exercise and too much indulgence

Disappointing but not surprising conditions on Thu, thought I could do the moves through the wet bit using a towel to hold the undercut but was too scared to clip off it - rightly so it turned out.  Also disappointed not to get a weekend session in, life getting in the way again.

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically In Pembroke end of July. F6c.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T- Nothing. Starting to feel a bit run-down.
W- Horseshoe Quarry. Feeling shit but did alright on a steep 6b.
T- Still feeling crap.
F- Still feeling crap. Obliged to stay up late, too.
S- Ravensdale. Despite feeling knackered had some multipitch trad fun.
S- Much-needed lie-in then Stoney classic-ticking. I fucking love Stoney. Did an E1 which must mean I'm on good form as it doesn't happen very often!

I was ill mid-week but just pshed on with work and all my other commitments. This normaly means I get very ill at the weekend, but I manage to have avoided it. Going well, which bodes well for Pembroke. Hopefully I can tick my STG next weekend with the added psyche a trip to the coast always adds.

[heelhookofglory]

Hope you had a good day at Churnet Chris, watch out for that elbow!

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Bouldering at Giza area. Flashed a Font 6B but shoulder felt tweaky. Rest time.
F: Bouldering at Churnet. Tweaked finger. Definitely rest time (from climbing)!
S: 21km mountain bike ride, 430m ascent, 1200cals.
S: 17km mountain bike ride, 300m ascent, 900cals. Then watched British Mountain Bike Downhill Champs at Llangollen. Wicked day.

[205Chris]

M: Short fingerboard session
T: Circuit problems at the works followed by some foot on campussing
W: PE circuits on garage board
T: Despite vowing never to go there again wound up at Horseshoe. Onsighted Megalithic Man then had a mare on a 6c. Vowed never to go back to Horseshoe ever again.
F: Short Fingerboard session.
S: Snuck out from a family reunion to Guisecliff. Got attacked by flies. Went to Slipstones which was baking but ticked a few problems.
S: Fingerboard and circuits at home.

[chris05]

Hope you had a good day at Churnet Chris, watch out for that elbow!

Had a really good session cheers. Will let you know when I'm heading over again.

[tunaficiency]

M : mountain bike loop didn't feel good so curtailed it.
T : shoulder theraband stuff
W : two redpoint attempts on echoes got to last hard move both times lunch watched tdf then another redpoint attempt on echoes got to last hard move again.
T: shoulder theraband stuff
F: two redpoint attempts on echoes got it on second one, first 7a + 
S: trad at castell helen did poseidon with kate, lovely then top pitch of rap realised at one point if i fell off i was facing a 60 foot fall. vs 
S : trad at upper tier gogarth shat myself on walk in then followed kate up the gauntlet
probably took us about 5 hours , great route, got basted .

[Barratt]

Poor entry this week.

• Had a trip to rubicon (nearly got BSD stand)
• Foundry bouldering, very hung over
• Derwent edges looking for cool temps, ticked a nice little 7a and enjoyed mantling madness.

[Big Dave]

Mon -
Tue - weights at gym - weighted chins / rows / curls
Wed - weights at gym - bench press / overhead press / dips
Thu -
Fri - Awesome walls Stockport
Sat -
Sun - Wimberry