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I just did a soaking wet V11! (Read 5274 times)

Nigel

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I just did a soaking wet V11!
December 05, 2002, 05:30:45 pm
Wow! What an lovely day! Hope everyone got out, and if you didn't I hope it lasts 'til the weekend.

Anyway, to the topic. Thought I'd go to Rowtor after taking a wander there on Sunday and seeing some good stuff. Tried three problems, only did one (incidentally, maybe someone knows something about it - the sit-start to the B5 matle problem in the middle of the Dissolution block - first ascent? grade? can't find it anywhere!). After getting a bit sick of my attempts at the other two lines getting progressively worse, I wandered over to Eagle Tor to see what was dry...

Nothing was the answer. But seeing as how I was over there I thought I'd better climb something, I remembered something I'd read on both the apeindex database and on this site - a sit-start V11 offwidth!

Which I did, in a few goes, even though it was soaking wet and covered in slime. Nice problem Justin Critchlow (read it on the database!), thoroughly enjoyed it, and I fully appreciate why you gave it V11 - the sight of a Moffatt or a Moon failing miserably on a sweaty mossy crack would probably warm many people's hearts! Shame its only really V4, because although they'd probably still flounder it means I can't add it to my hard problems list. Oh well...

Doylo

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#1 I just did a soaking wet V11!
December 05, 2002, 08:44:11 pm
Sounds lovely, Spidey bust his ankle on pebble mill, not good. I'm holding you repsonsible for encouraging him!

Bubba

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#2 Re: I just did a soaking wet V11!
December 06, 2002, 07:50:35 am
Quote from: "Nigel"
a sit-start V11 offwidth!

Which I did, in a few goes, even though it was soaking wet and covered in slime.


Bleedin' hell, a return to sterling traditional values  :wink:

So where exactly is it - might have a look if we get up there tomorrow (forcast is looking wank again mind).

Quote from: "Nigel"
he sight of a Moffatt or a Moon failing miserably on a sweaty mossy crack would probably warm many people's hearts


Think the Moffat's a bit of a dab hand at cracks - did you ever read his inspirational "Flashing the Phoenix" article?

Nigel

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#3 I just did a soaking wet V11!
December 06, 2002, 11:13:59 am
Sorry Chris, I'll have to put him straight next time I see him eh! Poor devil.

Bubba, this crack is, like it says in the database, just round the corner (to the right) from Feel Good and Heart Arete. Can't miss it - short, slightly undercut and disgusting looking. Just sit down, jam both feet, and "elevator" (as they say in the US of A) right up that filthy beatch! Classic.

Yeah, I reckon Moffat would do it no probs after some of the cracks he's hauled himself up.

P.S. Anyone know about that sit-start at Rowtor?

justfunk_

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#4 I just did a soaking wet V11!
December 31, 2002, 01:50:42 am
Dude it was a bit of a punt. We did it stoned and in trainers!  

Actually try the liedown start with your feet in the crack above you then pull up into jams.  V18 like that. . . .  great.
But i bet u loved it really .  

J

Bubba

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#5 I just did a soaking wet V11!
December 31, 2002, 10:01:11 am
You mean you were smoking......EVIL DOPE !!??!?

Disgraceful behaviour - haven't you seen "Reefer Madness"? - it shows you what that stuff does to you - one puff and you turn into a giggling sex-maniac!  :wink:

I think I'd better change the grade in the database........ :roll:

justfunk_

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#6 I just did a soaking wet V11!
January 01, 2003, 10:08:49 pm
Happy new year ________

justfunk_

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#7 I just did a soaking wet V11!
January 01, 2003, 10:10:19 pm
Didnt realise that you put it in at that . Sorry .Twas a joke !  :oops:

I did a new problem at stanton moor the other week .Did james p tell you about it?  :?:

I dont know how to explain where it is? I got lost up in them moors?  :shock:

It was the left wall of a block with a big brake spliting the whole lot ! Next to a V9 arete. ? ? ?

It is very good. About V9 ish? It was a little damp(ish) so may be the grade could change.

Its called Mike tyson as i cut both my hands fist jamming and a cut chin when i slipped off! Bum  :x . Honest it is good.Hehe

When you  (ukb) boys out next.   ? :?:

J

Bubba

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#8 I just did a soaking wet V11!
January 06, 2003, 10:13:45 am
No worries  :D

Not heard about that new problem - James??? Can you explain exactly where it is?  It's all a bit spread out and confusing up on Stanton - maybe it's time for a topo - wasn't somebody doing an article in one of the mags?

Nearly hooked up with you guys on Sat, but just as I arrived at RHS, FatboySlimfast and PercyB were just leaving saying that it was a washout (although they did mention some keen boys still cranking  :wink: )

james

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#9 I just did a soaking wet V11!
January 06, 2003, 06:51:00 pm
It is on the block with Snaptonic but it is hard to explain the position of the block.  It is best to get a tour off a local.  
Where did you get to on Saturday?  We went to the Roaches and it was good.  I almost did another V9 which cant be bad :lol: .  Jules was very impresive and it was fun watching Mark S take a big whipper off Counterstroke.  All in all a good day.
Cheers

James

Bubba

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#10 I just did a soaking wet V11!
January 06, 2003, 07:18:07 pm
Sat was spent driving about in the snow looking at wet gritstone  :cry:

Should have gone to the Roaches!

 

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