[Pantontino]

Impressive four pitch F7a on the South Wall of Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig Slate quarries:

http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/07/08/supermassive-black-hole-a-4-pitch-f7a-in-twll-mawr/

I might just be able to squeeze it into the forthcoming Llanberis Slate guide (which is, to all intents and purposes, finished), just in case anybody is wondering.

[SA Chris]

That sounds excellent.

(now got Muse in my head too).

[Steamboat Stello]

WOW! Looks incredible. Theres no chance the new guides going to be out before my visit next weekend then? 

[Hoseyb]

I was hoping this was the first of my giveaway's of the month finally completed...

http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/10/giveaway-project-of-month-october.html

Sadly it appears that it was just a case of slateheads thinking alike...

Really must do this! have a few other things to do on this wall too, its certainly one of the last big areas of unclimbed stuff



hosey

[Paul B]

this looks fantastic! Can't wait to see the guide too, it looked like it'd be an inspirational read no matter what.

[siomac]

I must say it is bloody brilliant. Go and do it, you won't be disappointed. Also, it stays dry during/after rain. And like Hosey said, there's potential for some epic routes there. Already spotted four beauties I'm keen on bagging!

[Pantontino]

Calum Muskett and Glyn Hudson repeated this and confirmed the quality. Slight tweak on pitch grades: F6c+, F6b+, F6c, F6b

[Grubes]

Calum Muskett and Glyn Hudson repeated this and confirmed the quality. Slight tweak on pitch grades: F6c+, F6b+, F6c, F6b

Nice!

I might just be able to squeeze it into the forthcoming Llanberis Slate guide (which is, to all intents and purposes, finished), just in case anybody is wondering.

Any idea when this is getting to the printers and more importantly going on sale?

[Pantontino]

We will be handing the files to the printer within the week - it really is finished!

Haven't got a definitive arrival date yet, but will announce this as soon as I know.

[slackline]

We will be handing the files to the printer within the week - it really is finished!

Haven't got a definitive arrival date yet, but will announce this as soon as I know.

 

[metal arms]

We will be handing the files to the printer within the week - it really is finished!

Haven't got a definitive arrival date yet, but will announce this as soon as I know.

 

[Neil F]

Brilliant news, Simon.

I will certainly be buying your slate guide, but I think my excitement is more that your desk is now clear for the final push on Gogarth South.

Good luck!

Neil

[Pantontino]

Glad to hear people are psyched for the guide (I do kind of know anyway because of the number of email enquiries I get each week, but I'm so exhausted right now I'll take any encouragement going  ).

It's easily the best book we've ever made, a truly beautiful and multi faceted thing. Wait to you see Martin Crook's diary of a Slatehead pieces - publishing gold dust!

Neil, Gogarth South is well on the way - two main chapters already done and all the other scripts ready courtesy of Geoff Bennett who has been beavering away on it for the last 6 months.

[Doylo]

nice one Mr P

[Paul B]

Martin Crook's diary of a Slatehead pieces - publishing gold dust!

Absolutely, psyched! Get the pre-order's up and running!

Directly on topic, could someone expand a bit on the approach to this for someone not all 'that' familiar with the quarries, thanks.

[Will Hunt]

Sweet Jesus. I've been waiting for the new slate guide since I started climbing. Can it really finally be ready? I cannot wait to hold it.

[siomac]

Martin Crook's diary of a Slatehead pieces - publishing gold dust!

Absolutely, psyched! Get the pre-order's up and running!

Directly on topic, could someone expand a bit on the approach to this for someone not all 'that' familiar with the quarries, thanks.

One) Abseil down (you'll need one long rope or two smaller ropes). There's a fence post and a thread on the pillar at the top.
Two) When you're walking into the quarry and Dali's is on your left, there is a fence going down to rainbow walls. Hop over the fence. If you go directly left on the same level, you'll reach Monkey Bar area of Never Never Land. Instead go down to the next level and walk left. You'll soon come to the Golgotha area with some sparsley bolted slabs on your left. Just a little further on from this should be a tunnel. There are forked exits, left and right. Go through the right exit and you'll end up on a green ledge with a small building. Continue along this level towards the big scree slope, scramble down to the bottom, and enjoy!

[Paul B]

Thanks, definitely would not have found the right tunnel!

[RichK]

 

Glad to hear people are psyched for the guide (I do kind of know anyway because of the number of email enquiries I get each week, but I'm so exhausted right now I'll take any encouragement going  ).

It's easily the best book we've ever made, a truly beautiful and multi faceted thing. Wait to you see Martin Crook's diary of a Slatehead pieces - publishing gold dust!      

Neil, Gogarth South is well on the way - two main chapters already done and all the other scripts ready courtesy of Geoff Bennett who has been beavering away on it for the last 6 months.

         

[SA Chris]

One) Abseil down (you'll need one long rope or two smaller ropes). There's a fence post and a thread on the pillar at the top.
Two) When you're walking into the quarry and Dali's is on your left, there is a fence going down to rainbow walls. Hop over the fence. If you go directly left on the same level, you'll reach Monkey Bar area of Never Never Land. Instead go down to the next level and walk left. You'll soon come to the Golgotha area with some sparsley bolted slabs on your left. Just a little further on from this should be a tunnel. There are forked exits, left and right. Go through the right exit and you'll end up on a green ledge with a small building. Continue along this level towards the big scree slope, scramble down to the bottom, and enjoy!

Three) Drive van (Bedford Rascal?) into tunnel and then walk out of other side

[Hoseyb]

More activity in Twll Mawr

THe First route to miss the guide!

http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2011/07/tales-of-golden-monkey.html


Now in a happy place!

hosey

[Pantontino]

Just heard from Ian that Phil Dowthwaite repeated Supermassive Black Hole and reckoned it was worth F7a (and 3 stars).

[Paul B]

How are these two new offerings settling out? I've just found pictures of both on Flickr, both have comments such as "how to do the crux, until I ripped the hold off" or "above the crux, after a hold broke off"?

If I can just finish up at the Cornice I'll be right over to give them a go. Good Verdon training, maybe.

[Pantontino]

I've been away in Pembroke so have not had a chance to get on them , but the feedback I've had is positive. Some disagreement about the grade for SMBH: F6c - F7a and worth 2 - 3 stars.

Black Hole Sun has got a loose initial pitch - some people are just abbing in and doing the top two pitches which are reportedly excellent and around F7a (Phil Dowthwaite reckoned the top pitch was the best he'd done in the quarries!).

[Paul B]

(the pictures I found are here if anyone else is interested)


Supermassive Black Hole_01 by SteveMLT, on Flickr