[shark]

Weight 11.3-5

M PM Tor. Baking. Had a couple of hours reinforcing a few holds putting Wickes own brand sika substitute
T. AM. Tor. Morning. Dogged up Indecent to break. Had a play on crux of new linkup but the Wickes stuff hadnt set  . Carried on up and dogged Full Monty. Did same twice more. Eve. Edge with Poppy. Did some campussing
W.Eve. Shed. Mainly working start of Oak cicuit. Still getting shut down by the throw. bicep curls? Also had a go on end half of Toms blue triangle PE circuit when tired. Definitely stronger
T. Eve, Comedy night at Lescar and a very late curry.
F AM Tor. After a few false starts on bottom of Indecent redpointed Full Monty  Ace pitch which deserves more attention. Found that the sika I had borrowed had gone off in the tin 
S.  Took kids to Cliffhanger and watched some of the men's qualifier.
S. AM. Tor. Hot. Dogged up BMD and worked OutOfBodyExperience. Next go unexpectedly did BMDirect  but fell above - as not worked it well enough. Worked it better. Next go really warm. Fell going for drilled pocket on BM. Worked some OutOf Body but tired. Finished drilling linkup. Early finish. OutOfBody should go next visit touch wood. Watched Men's tennis final and World Cup bouldering final on ifsc.tv . Shed with Tom. He did well but I couldn't pull.

A good week.

Anyone up for an early morning sesh at the tor this week?

[tommytwotone]

Cheers Shark....

M - Nowt - went to give blood but got brutalised by the nurse, flipped out a bit and knocked donation on the head. Felt weird all day.
T - Board training for first time in 3 weeks, excellent session, well psyched to be at it again
W - Gym - cardio, tricep / shoulder stuff and "Prison Workout" from 10 reps down plus lots of core
T - Depot, good showing on new bouldering league circuit
F - At Headingley for ODI, then colleague's leaving do in evening. Serious boozing.
S - Got up, went back to bed again, got up a second time. Felt crap. Japanese for dinner with mates, then on to watch Haye fight
S - Seem to have picked up the cold that's going round. Did nowt, went to friend's barbeque but left early as feeling weird. 

[205Chris]

Goal - Powerplant

M: Lots of routes at the Edge
T: Nada
W: Work related course in Manchester. Back late so no training.
T: Circuits + powerplant style crux moves on home board
F: Bouldering at Blackwell Dale. After a poor start one of my friends randomly turns up and I find some psyche. Tick What would Jerry Do, Red or Dead and Swing Time. All class problems.
S: Beastmaker workout followed by chilli, beer and poker with mates.
S: Shake off hangover.

Didn't manage to get back on Powerplant this week, think the break might have done me some good and psychologically was good to get some quick bouldering ticks too. Back down the cornice this week with a bit of luck.

[nai]

Goals have had to be revised:

stg (season) Why Me?, Sturgeon, Cry Of Despair.
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a next summer

M - 4x4x4 at works, skin gave out 2nd rep of 3rd set so had to finish foot-on campusing.
t
W - max hangs (still weak), pullups, 1/2 core workout
T full core+
F - Cornice, worked Cry of Despair again, refined sequences and found a decent rest at the first roof which doesn't involve knees, had a redpoint but it ended at the moves over the roof, that move needs some more care with footwork and I also want to investigate the use of a kneebar to reach the high sloper rather than a big slap.
s - Built a campus board minus the rungs which should arrive on Tuesday.
s - Went to Cliffhanger, managed to arrive after the semis and leave just as the final started

[duncan]

STG: Get fit for Il Dolomiti (Comici)
MTG: as usual

M - Anerobic endurance (30 problems on the minute). Run.
T - Aerobic endurance (10 mins on x 3)
W -
T - Aerobic endurance (10 mins on x 3)
F -
S - Portland.  11 routes 6a-6c (all first go, some climbed years previously but felt like on-sights).
S - Tired.  Short run.

A good week.  Next stop Italia.

[duncan]

.

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically In Pembroke end of July. 6C.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

Felt totally drained at the start of this week so decided I needed a rest week was in order before three weeks of training pre-Pembroke. I feel a lot better for it now!

M-T - Rest.
S- Stoney bouldering. Did every move on Middle break traverse but couldn't quite link it. Must have done virtually all of it 10+ times which I believe must be good stamina training.
S- Aldery Cliff. Nice limestone slabs. Ideal summer day.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always.

M: Nowt
T: Redpoint session @ Gordale - Lobbed off a 7a+ and dogged a 7b+ a couple of times, ripped a massive flapper on me pinkie!
W: AeroCap on BM (feet on chair).
T: Isolated hard moves @ The works - I'm still so shit at deep locks, one arm stuff and levers! Tried really hard tho but pulled summat in me neck.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Cornice - Neck felt better so warrmed by leading the 7a(?) on the far right (felt tricky but steady away) and seeing as all my objectives were occupied or still damp was talked into having a punt on Powerplant.... 1st go - completely shut down by lower section, crux and headwall (serves me right for listening to Slovenian beast Jernej's beta!). 2nd go - work out lower wall, shut down by crux and work out headwall. 3rd go - Piss lower wall, get good beta on crux, make move into 2 crimps and get 2nd kneebar in before tiredness calls time. Interesting! Go to cliff hanger, watch beasts, chat shit, get drenched by my waterpistol weilding son. Have to walk back most of the way to Sharrow with all my gear and get home with a really, really sore neck and shoulders that keep me awake half the night - Arse!

All in all not a bad week but it's been spoiled by whatever I've done to my neck being loads worse today, can hardly turn my head and lifting my arms causes shooting pains, it's causing both my shoulders not inconsiderable pain too... Might have to have a few days off !

Was good to get on Powerplant to see what I'm really up against - as Nik says "you'll never do an 8a if you don't get on one" I should have known better than to listen to Jernej's beta though, this guy is savagely strong, the method he used to do Powerplant was impressive to say the least....

This week: Loads to do but will see how the neck\shoulder thing pans out... Can't be fecking iinjured now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
:D

[Luthor]

STG  - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - 
Tue     - CD Cornice. Started working Cordless Madness. 
Wed     -
Thurs   - Circuit board intervals at the Works at lunchtime. 
Fri     - 
Sat     - Fun day out bouldering on Yorkshire grit. Got up a couple of 7a's.
Sun     -   

[andybfreeman]

Goals as always

M - rest

Tu - TCA session - mix of circuits and problems. Repeated blacks and did one new one. Fell off the last move of the red 7a circuit twice - there are no rests and so it's pretty much pure PE and about the right length for training for my route goals.

W - Late night at work (with the tennis on!) so rest. Planned to do deadhangs when I got home but got comfy on the sofa instead

Th - TCA session - worked endurance by doing 15min sets of laps on easy circuits. When that got boring (after 2 sets) tried linking easy and harder circuits for some an/aero cap. Finished by doing some of the new mothership problems but was hampered by a flapper on my palm so focused on smaller holds on the less steep bits

F - Pull ups and deadhangs at home. Sets of 10 pull ups on good edges separated by 30sec-1min rests until failure.

Sa - St Paul's carnival, consumed excessive quantities of Red Stripe and jerk chicken

Su - Lazy day watching tennis and recovering. Did some pull ups and core work on the BM once the hangover had passed

Another week of indoor training only. need to get out more. Planning to hit cheddar after work on Thursday then maybe a trip up north next weekend.

Weight - now consistent in the high 67s although over 68 this morning. Not too bad but too heavy for route goals. I was 65 dead when i went to Spain last year and that's the goal to maximise my chances of doing the cider soak in the next 2 months

[tunaficiency]

STG trad : royal plume e2 6a and cousin m e2 6b
       sport : onsight  eating words at ruthin
bouldering : robert duvall 7a

mtg trad : e3 onsight
       sport : grand canyon 7b+ or short 7c that suits my style
bouldering : gasoline sit 7b+
 
monday : migraine 
tuesday : 15 mile mountain bike ride with 1500 feet of ascent and descent 1:29
wednesday : 6b , 6c at ruthin done before, tried 7b butterfly collector on top rope then dogged up on lead banged foot falling
thursday: limping
friday : trad maeshafn watched kate and ben attempt flying block 2 falls each then lead it on their gear, hard for e1
saturday : went back to ruthin 6b and 6c to warm up then sent butterfly collector on first try. first 7b 
sunday : migraine 

[fried]

Monday - nothing
Tuesday - ridiculously hot indoor session, 38° yesterday, now down to 33° ish. Spend a lot of time sweating and sliding off holds. Incredibly I have the whole place to myself. i don't last too long though.

Wednesday - Friday - Bits of shoulder stuff.

Saturday - Lost in the forest again looking for a blue circuit at Beauvais telegraph. It wasn't very good when I found it, so did a couple of problems then some easier stuff, then some blues at Beauvais hameau. Still too hot.

Sunday - shoulder stuff.

Bought some new scales, apparently I'm 75.2kg with 5% fat which I find slightly unbelievable.

[Muenchener]

STG:  Alpine (sport) rock route >= 10 pitches, >= 6a
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp

M: resting
T: working
W: Theraband, pressups. First pain-free pressups since I tweaked my right shoulder on a mantelshelf problem in May
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. 1 hour light bouldering, 30 minutes ARC/aerocap
F: Shoulders & core: rings, pressups etc.
S: (Was hoping to get another mountain multipitch day in, but bad weather)
S: Wall, Heaven's Gate: bouldering. Good to train in unfamiliar surroundings from time to time, but also a reminder why, of all the major local walls, this is the only one I don't visit regularly.
Bike to & from wall 25km

[jamiev]

Goals as per last week.

Mon-
Tues - Cornice, 2 good redpoint attempts on zippys old man direct - off at high crimp,
Weds-
Thurs - Cornice, 2 not so good redpoint attempts on zippy's old man direct - didn't reach tuesday's highpoint; one was a poor effort and other one felt really solid but wasn't concentrating on one foot which popped off. Then a final bolt to bolt to really get top moves solid when tired. Still a good session.
Fri-
Sat had to work all day
Sun family trip to cliffhanger. Eve: made up 20 move hard (for me) circuit on vine boulder and repeated 10 times, until forearms exploding and drunk man watching very amused.

Too much work this week, but still great to get out twice and train once. Coming week looks really busy too.

[tomtom]

This week I have been mostly...

Rubiocon 2 Almscliff 1. Successes/new ticks 0.

*twiddles thumbs and waits for progress...*

[webbo]

Mon.Nothing took missus to see knee consultant.
Tue. Rockcity repeated most things made a bit of progress on the 2 i've not done.
Wed.Nothing.
Thu. Rockcity struggling a bit just repeated a few things having failed to make progress on the 2 outstanding problems.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat.Running missus around.Rockcity did 2 x24 problems plus a v5 and a v6+.Bike 1 hr 35 mins 27 miles hilly.
Sun.bike 3 hrs 37 mins 61 miles flat.According to the sat nav my long flat ride had more alltitude gain than my short hilly ride.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

M: 3xDB complex, BM: (pull-ups & repeaters) & core
T: rest
W: swim (40l), 3xDB complex, BM: (assorted pull-ups) & core
T: swim (40l), 3xDB complex, BM: (assorted pull-ups & repeaters) & core
F: rest
S: Bouldering at Ramshaw, Baldstones & Newstones
S: Bouldering at Stanage Apparent North

Reasonable week, lots of easy bouldering over the weekend, time to get back to harder stuff and try to complete some of those goals.

[pyrosis]

STG: Become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices, v8 on two different rock types (one to go)
MTG: v9 by the end of the year

M: Bouldered on the beach @ Lost Rocks, nice circuit of mostly v0-v3
T: Rained out. Drove home
W: nada
T: work
F: work
S: work
S: work