[shark]

Weight 11.3-5

M
T. AM. Tor. OK conditions. Redpointed Crucfixion (effectively twice!)    Eve. Belayed Poppy at Edge and tried to do some campus work but couldn't pull.
W.
T. PM Cornice. Raining but good conditions. Worked Dirty Old Man - got a sequence (forgot what I did last year) didn't try to redpoint.
F AM Tor. Morning. Tried moves on a new linkup I've spotted. . Drilled a couple of holes. Need to reinforce some holds with sika but should go at 7c+/8a. Eve. Drove to Wolverhampton.
S  Boys compted in BYCS final. Unfortunately the routes and problems didnt play to their strengths and they performed poorly  Eve. Curry and a few drinks.
S. Drive back. Shed. Baking. Played on Oak PE circuit.

A week of highs and lows. Elated to do Crucifixion though it already seems a long time ago (pics below courtesy of PaulB and cheers to Dylan for the catch and encouragement). Got 2 new projects to do now. Although they are still disappointed boys seemed to have got over their poor performance at BYCS and are up for keeping at it with the training.


Crucifixion, Raven Tor by travelswithmyt4, on Flickr


Apres redpoint by travelswithmyt4, on Flickr

[tommytwotone]

Effort Shark, saw those pics earlier in the week, love the apres redpoint one!

Another week in Guildford for me, this time without a gym at my disposal so my update is very straightforward:

M - Did Bubba's "prison workout" (descending sets of burpees with a pressup included). Started from 15...v hard work! Gastropub and a few beers afterwards.
T - Very sore from Monday night's effort, could barely push a door open! Pub and curry for tea.
W - Still very sore! Pub and curry for tea.
T - Back to Leeds, unpacking / repacking. Pizza and a beer for tea for efficiency.
F - Up to Newcastle for mate's wedding over weekend. Went to Climb Newcastle with one of the stags, good venue. Beers and dinner afterwards.
S - Wedding all day, eventually turned in at 3am.
S - Major hangover, helped cleanup after wedding, drove home.

Back in Leeds for the foreseeable future now so really need to get back with the programme.

[heelhookofglory]

T. AM. Tor. OK conditions. Redpointed Crucfixion (effectively twice!)    Eve.

Nice one Shark!



M: 4 x 12 pull-ups and Beastmaker session -- 2 sets of max hangs (3FO & 4FO).
T: Mega Churnet session. Really good quality and hard!
W: REST
T: 4 x 12 pull-ups and Beastmaker session -- 2 sets of max hangs (Fr2, Md2 & Bk2 (assisted)).
F: REST (3 x 12 BB curls and shoulder press super-sets). Night out, beer and vodka -- oops!
S: 4 x 12 pull-ups. Attempted a BM sesh but wasn't feeling it so stopped (hangover and training don't mix).
S: Tried a Churnet session but too wet from seepage (not me, the rock). Beastmaker session -- 3 sets of max hangs (Fr2, Md2 (weighted) & Bk2 (assisted)).

Want to get out on rock more next week.

[Luthor]

nice one shark.



STG  - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - 
Tue     - Raven Tor. Successful redpoint of 'Out of My Boots'. Last go of the night when a repeat visit was looking a cert 
Wed     -
Thurs   - Circuit board at the Works at lunchtime. 
Fri     - 
Sat     - Aborted visit to the Cornice. Works in pm. Bouldering then circuit board session.
Sun     - Bouldered at Cratcliffe with mates. Repeated razor roof and failed on a 6a slabby arete. Brilliant. 

A good week 

Not sure if OOMB counts as F7c, so got another couple of projects lined up.

Hoping cornice will be dry by tuesday...

[205Chris]

Goal: Powerplant

M: Endurance work on garage board
T: Routes at the Edge
W: Nada
T: Nada
F: Warm up at the works then head to the cornice. Stick the clips up Powerplant. 1st redpoint I bundle through the crux, up to my previous highpoint, stick the LH crimp and think this could be it but I've not quite got enough left in the tank and I'm off. 2nd go I mess up the crux slightly but keep going. I've wasted too much energy though and I fall off the headwall. 3rd redpoint go is crap but I repeat the headwall several times and make minor tweaks to my sequence. Experiment with knee bars for the bulge section but it doesn't feel any better so sticking to my original sequence.
S: Catch up with some friends I've not seen in ages. Go for a ride (first time out on my bike in ages) and manage not to die riding up Froggatt hill. Result. Curry and beers later.
S: Early morning ride to shake off my hangover. Go out looking for dry limestone in the afternoon. Wind up at Stoney but it's about a million degrees and busy. Do a few laps of the traverses then go home for fingerboard / board work.

Gutted after Friday, feel like I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory. On the plus side it's a new highpoint which represents progress (albeit measured in inches!). Hopefully the weather will sort itself out and I'll be back on it before too long.

[nai]

Nice one again Shark, and Luthor.  Chris, pull your finger out

Aims

M - hour puntering at Burage North, 4x12 pullups. Eve - 15min bike ride with kiddy trailer, 15min run.
T - 5 x sets15 pullups & 20 press-ups. core
W - bit of a play at the Works while herding the girls. Few hangs back at home afterwards
t  quite tired, legs still aching from Monday
F - couple of hours fun bouldering at Clifftop
S - quicky at the works, worked out a circuit involving a CoD crux style move.  Sore skin rather than megapump brought an end to the session.
s quite hungover

[Muenchener]

STG:  Alpine multi-pitch in Oberreintal end of June ... no, but: see below
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp

The week in which weather and health curtail the planned Big Trip to the Bavarian Alps and replace it with two days in the Dolomites. We learn that the Dolomites may not be the least intimidating place in the world to re-learn trad climbing after a fifteen year hiatus.

M: I have a cold and the weather forecast is crap. Not looking good for Big Alpine Trip :-(
T: Still have a cold, weather forecast for Alps still lousy. Scheisse.
    Right shoulder has been feeling iffy for a while, so bought a theraband & started using it.
W: Yoga, theraband
T: Yoga, theraband
F: Dolomites: Kleine Micheliuzzi (V-) on Piz Ciavazes. My first proper alpine rock route ever, and first trad route since 1996.
S: Dolomites: attempt Vinatzer (V+) on third Sella tower. Make classic alpine beginner mistakes - get up too late, faff too much on stances - so bail from the halfway ledge that is conveniently provided for this purpose in the Dolomites.
S: Ötztal: sport climbing relaxation on the way home from the Dolomites. Planned multipitch sport routes are soaking wet, so settle for a pleasant afternoon's single pitch sport at Oberried.

[Neil F]

Congratulations Simon!

I saw someone had logged an anonymous tick on Tuesday, and I was hoping it was you...

Now, do you reckon it deserves its one star?   

Neil

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before. Dodgy finger feeling better than it has so hoping it's on the mend

M - Deadhangs and pull ups at home. Lightish session as my forearms and back felt well worked from my Sunday session at TCA, I've been takingit so easy recently that I'd alnost forgotten what proper DOMS felt like!

T - TCA session. Cicuits finally feeling easier as fitness returns. Did a few laps of the red suposedly 6c that had spat me off on Sunday. Got slightly distracted by problems and did a couple of new blacks. Drafgged myslef backto the circuit board and worked the white 7c+ circuit. Did all the moves but in 4 overlapping sections so some way to go considering it's only 27 moves long!

W - Long day at work so rest

Th - TCA session. Circuits feeling better again. Managed bigger links on the white 7c+ on the less steep board then moved onto the steep board and proceeded to fall off the last move of the red 7a repeatedly.

F - A colleague's last day so went out after work.

Sa - Nothing

Su - I was planning to meet Duncan at Cheddar but  . Spent day staying close to facilities and wishing i was outside in the perfect weather. Sorry agin Duncan, I hope you managed to get some climbing in

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

Missed a week due to being away for work.

M: 3 x DB complex, 6.2m run, core (500)
T-T: working super long hours to meet a deadline
F: fly to Miami for conference
S: swim and gym (cardio)
S: swim and run on beach

M: swim and gym (cardio & weights)
T: swim
W: nothing
T: swim and gym (weights and cardio)
F: swim and then lots of waiting at airports
S: arrive back in UK, had hoped to get out climbing but weather was rubbish
S: bouldering at Burbage South

Terrible couple of weeks for climbing but managed to avoid putting any weight on in the US (YYFY!). Should be able to get back to training properly now.

[duncan]

STG: get fit for Dolomiti in 2 weeks.
MTG: as before

M - F - conference in Amsterdam - guaranteed to facilitate training.... (managed a couple of runs and the usual shoulder stability stuff
S - friends and family

Su - I was planning to meet Duncan at Cheddar but  . Spent day staying close to facilities and wishing i was outside in the perfect weather. Sorry agin Duncan, I hope you managed to get some climbing in

Not a problem Andy, I did the same to my partners last weekend... thanks for the bouldering suggestions.

S - randomly met a couple of chaps at Cheddar and had an excellent day - thanks Steve and Brian if you read this - did Croaking in Woking (6c+? 7a?) crux to the top and onsighted a bunch of easier stuff. 

A good session considering it was the second time on rock in two months.  Could have done Croaking ... I think but erring on the side of caution with trip in two weeks. 

 

[jamiev]

Nice one Simon.

2011 goals include:
-Lots of quality 7as - bs. (2011 so far 1x7b redpoint; 1x7a+onsight; 1x 7a+/b redpoint; 2x7a+ redpoint; 6x7a redpoint; 1x7a flash)
-F7c sport redpoint, F7a onsight (1x 7a+ onsight done in france in April)
-Several summer trad goals incl Resurrection.

Mon - 1 mile run with sprint intervals. 25 minute continuous general conditioning & core circuit.
Tues - Cheedale - Successful redpoint of Old Man River on 3rd rp attempt of evening. V happy.
Wed -
Thurs - Cheedale. Did War memorial as per usual then sussed out moves on Zippy's Direct on Old Man. Got the moves sorted out. Hope to get on it this coming week for rp.
Fri -
Sat - 1 mile run with sprint intervals. 25 minute continuous general conditioning & core circuit.
Sun - 2nded Piccadilly Circus at Millstone - hot sweaty crack climbing, mmm. Led, soloed and 2nded a few things at Burbage North.

[fried]

Too much work.

Monday - Friday -Absolutely nothing.

Saturday - Scenic tour (lost) of the Trois Pignons, Walk up Rocher des souris, Do a couple of problems in Jean des Vignes, it's far too hot. Do a couple of problems at Rocher des Potets. Get Lost, end up on the arse end of the blue circuit, do a couple of problems. Manage to end up in Gros sablon before finding 95.2. Note; Do not forget the IGN map. Do a couple of blues, it's far too hot, but a good day wandering about.

Sunday - brief shoulder stuff

Weight 75.1kg

5 weeks and I'll be in Targasonne.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: 7b+ in a session, 7c/+, 8a before 2014.

M: Nowt
T: Onsighting @ The Edge - I was poo!
W: AeroCap in Cellar - Bit better.
T: Hardest problems session @ The Works - Not too bad.
F: Chil
S: Chil
S: AeroCap on Beatmaker - Walk to cornice with family... Soapy... Din't climb owt.

Did what was required this week but missed real rock... Started the week tired, ended hot... Still hot..

This week: Get out and redpoint summat, train power and PE!

:D

[webbo]

Mon.Arrive home from Germany.Bike 3hrs 8mins 52 miles flat.
Tues. Docs with missus.Leeds wall managed a red v6 i couldn't do last time plus another v6 as well as flashing a red v5.
Wed.Fracture clinic with missus 4 hours of hell .Bike 2hrs 10 mins 36 miles.
Thurs.Leeds wall repeated stuff. 2 x v6 4 x v5 plus all the greens.
Fri. Bike 2 hrs 45 mins hilly 45 miles.
Sat. Rockcity repeated stuff 31 problems including v5 and v6+.
Sun. Bike 3 hrs 35 mins flat 60 miles fried, feet on fire at the end.

[shark]

Congratulations Simon!

I saw someone had logged an anonymous tick on Tuesday, and I was hoping it was you...
Neil

Thanks Neil. It's had a flurry of acsents recently: Tom, Keefe, Anthony Ingam (I think), Steve and Karin. Steve's replaced and added a couple of bolts on the lower section of the Prow and an extra one on PushUp. I think he'd talked to you about it.

Now, do you reckon it deserves its one star?   

Neil

Is that what it get's in the guide?. I know Kristian is suspiscious of the solidity of the whole of the small roof. He says it  makes a booming sound if you hit with a hammer. However, Steve Crowe is very taken with the route and thought three stars. Keith Sharples is on it now and rates it too.

[AJM]

Redpointed Crucfixion (effectively twice!) 

Effort Simon, well done...!

[slackline]

Redpointed Crucfixion (effectively twice!) 

You got it on your second redpoint as oppossed to the first?

Only joking, seriously good effort, you look very happy to have got the route done, all the training and hard work has paid off.

[shark]

Redpointed Crucfixion (effectively twice!) 

You got it on your second redpoint as oppossed to the first?

Only joking, seriously good effort, you look very happy to have got the route done, all the training and hard work has paid off.

Thanks. Re getting very close on first redpoint and then doing it second (on a day) is something that happened on a few sustained routes such as the Prow and Overnite. It's the sort of thing that shows you are not as close to your limit as it often feels. However, if there is a distinct crux or crux section on a project I'm usually good at bagging the route the first time I get through the crux i.e K3, Baboo, Free Monster.

Although I've not broken into a new grade yet in the last 12 months Ive done 1x8a+, 3x8a and 2x7c+. which is significantly better than anything I've managed before in that sort of time frame. Although undeniably sad/geeky the 8anu scorecard is good for keeping the pressure on to raise your batting average.

[Barratt]

Mon: campus, not the best effort, still felt rough.
Tues: circuit / bumbling round works, too busy to really get into it.

Nothing for rest of week, travel/work/life all keep training at bay. Hoping for a good week as on beach holiday next

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically Rock Idol in July. 6C.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T- Skipping, Powerball, Beastmaker repeaters.
W- Swiss ball core.
T- Skipping, Powerball, Beastmaker repeaters.
F- Rest. DJ at party 'til late.
S- Big rest. knackered.
S- Sweaty grit bumbling at Rob's Rocks. Hard to put a 'useful training' spin on this, but a fun day out.

[pyrosis]

STG: Become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices, Font 7B on two different rock types (one to go)
MTG: Font 7C by the end of the year

M: work
T: work
W: drove a loong ways from Bishop to the north coast of California for some seaside bouldering
T: Bouldered on the beach...  No names or ratings here, just fine pulling on basalt with the roar of the ocean in the background
F: repeat of Thursday
S: Went for a hike in a redwood forest
S: Headed down to Moonstone beach about an hour to the south, but the sand at the beach was so high that all the problems were like 5' tall!!  Still had some fun on the mini-problems. Had a fantastic pizza in Arcata.