[markwellin]

Alright guys.
as the title suggest, I've got 4days off and we were thinking of going to north Wales for some sport. Really want to know if any regulars think it will be dry enough for long enough to get the most out of a trip, and seeing as we are coming from Bournemouth it's a long way to go to get rained off for days on end.

BBC seems to think llandundo will see sun for that time, but who knows how accurate it is!

Cheers
Mark

[Pantontino]

Despite the bad rep for wetness N Wales has surprisingly low rainfall out on the coast (for example, Colwyn Bay gets less rain than Hathersage in the Peak).

There are now also hundreds of sport routes in the slate quarries above Llanberis - rainfall is more likely here but the rock is very quick drying.

Have fun.

[JohnM]

You should definitely make the trip as you are guaranteed to get some sport climbing in particularly if you are flexible about what you want to do.  As Si said rainfall is relatively low on the coast and I don't remember the last time I went to the Orme and it rained and set in all day.   

[slackline]

I spent a day climbing at Penmaen Head in the rain as it stays dry (providing the prevailing wind isn't coming from the west).

Get yourself the A55 guide.

[markwellin]

Does the a55 guide cover everything? Lpt etc. I know there isn't a guide for the slate quarries, is there anything to help you at least get to the right place?

Also where is good to camp for all this climbing?

Anything else i should know? Best routes up to 7cish (I wanna say I'm going to go for my first 8 but not sure how strong I'm feeling)
Cheers so far anyway

[slackline]

Does the a55 guide cover everything?

No.  See also North Wales Limestone

Lpt etc. I know there isn't a guide for the slate quarries, is there anything to help you at least get to the right place?[/url]

Dinorwig Slate Quarries

Also where is good to camp for all this climbing?

Depends where you are climbing.

[Davo]

Some good routes to look at in the grade range you have asked about are:

Upper pen Trwyn:
Axle Attack 7a+
Mayfair 7a+
Blood sports 7b

Lower Pen Trwyn:
Mussell Beach 8a (although I have heard that this may be getting the downgrade!)
Bad Bad Boy 7c
Night Glue 7a+

Tons of others down there including Statement of Youth 8a but I thought the above ones might be quite do able in a quick hit.

Pigeon's Cave has a couple of good ones:
Stark 8a would be great if it isn't too greasy down there...

I have obviously left out tons of routes, if you are wanting to try an 8a then Lpt is the place with loads to go at. If the tide is in/ at awkward times then you would need to stick to upper pen trwyn. Unfortunately there don't seem to be so many amenable 8as up there but I guess Simon Says would be a good one to try...

Hope this is of some help

[markwellin]

Thanks guys. Love the speed, efficiency and lack of snide responses on here!

Unfortunately my partner has bitched out so we are going to sportland... Again.
I'll keep this info in mind and make a proper plan for later in the summer!
Cheers

[Doylo]

The word on the street is that Mussel beach will survive! 

[jimmykay]

Llandudno is so good for weather. I've been too-ing a fro-ing since I was 13, and it can be utterly perfect weather, mediterranean-esque, when it's absolutely torrential everywhere else.
 

   I do wish I'd started climbing when I was 13. 10years of Cave action... I'd be as good as P Robins by now..... 

[205Chris]

I'm off to North Wales for the weekend. Unfortunately word reaches me that the Orme is currently gopping.

Anyone any idea if the A55 stuff is likely to be dry, thinking particularly of Release the Hounds.

[petejh]

I don't 'know' but I'd expect Hounds to be bone dry, it's an overhanging arete so doesn't really seep and is well exposed to the wind and would have been in some late afternoon sun today. Good forecast tomorrow. Should be fine by the weekend. Gets lovely late afternoon/evening sun.

Other good routes worth checking out in that area and which should be dry by Saturday are:

Iskra 6b+ at The Gallery, supposed to be the best of it's grade in n.wales (to my shame i haven't done it yet). morning sun.

and
Map of the Problematique 6c+/7a slab at Penmaen Bach quarry: http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/09/04/map-of-the-problematique-f7a-%E2%80%93-future-classic-added-to-penmaenbach-quarry/ Not 3 stars but good. Late afternoon/evening sun

and
on top of the release the hounds mountain in the disused quarry (park above Llanfairfechan for this):  'A Tetris Temperament' 7b - labelled on the topo as the unknown 7b in this news item: [url]http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/07/30/at-the-heart-of-it-all-new-e6-arete-in-quarry-above-llanfairfechan/]http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/07/30/at-the-heart-of-it-all-new-e6-arete-in-quarry-above-llanfairfechan/] [url]http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/07/30/at-the-heart-of-it-all-new-e6-arete-in-quarry-above-llanfairfechan/[/url] No sun.

lastly
Fiendish Beandish is a very good 7a+ on pocketed rhyolite on Noticeboard crag. Late afternoon/evening sun.

[Doylo]

There was plenty to do on the Orme yesterday (the day after the deluge) so they'll be plenty to go at at the weekend.  LPT might have recovered by then and there's shed loads of routes above the road that don't get wet

[nbonnett]

I thought the map,of the problematique was superb and warranted three stars and was arondn7a , though,if it was chalked and you had beta you'd grade it 6c+ and a half.

Good effort .

Can someone bolt the upper quarry cause its been bugging me looking up,every morning and seeing all that u climbed rock from my garden .

[petejh]

I thought the map,of the problematique was superb and warranted three stars and was arondn7a , though,if it was chalked and you had beta you'd grade it 6c+ and a half.

Good effort .

Can someone bolt the upper quarry cause its been bugging me looking up,every morning and seeing all that u climbed rock from my garden .

It has been hasn't it? http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/07/26/penmaenbach-quarry-half-a-dozen-new-sport-routes-f5-%E2%80%93-f7a/

A few more done since then.

[nbonnett]

Sorry pete meant the crag quarry on top of the hill at llanfairfechan above realease the hounds ,

[petejh]

Yep I wish some of the a55 people would develop that quarry too, lots of good potential up there.