[comPiler]

A Classic Welsh Tease - Clogwyn Y Garreg
19 February 2014, 1:25 pm

Where? I hear you cry, nestling in the mouth of the Nantlle Valley, found in a 10 year old guide which states 8 single pitch routes up to a solitary E1, a brace of new routes added on the CC website all solo upto VS, and Questionable access.

Thus starts a classic welsh tease, familiar to all driven to the unheathly life of the new router. You see its 200m from the road, and looks pretty. Further more its strewn with a myriad of, admittedly small, boulders. To clinch the deal, a bit of digging divulged its now on open access land, and an anglers deal means easy parking and a maintained path.

The Game is Afoot.

2 mins from the car

The View down the valley

All starts as usual. Time is limited to 2 hours between home and Osteopath appt (hence why I'm not patioing  Neverfall..) so thats about 1hr to wander. First impressions are that the rock could be nice and is certainly quick drying (all dry here), its rhyolite with some quartzy metamorphing. Think wavelength meets  holyhead mountain.

Given the time I elected to circumnavigate the mound, not having time to scour the two tiers..

First lot into viewstart of next tier

And so it goes on round the mound, new exciting rock round each corner to inspect at a closer range...What we want is:1)a line2)a landing3)respectable difficulty4)more than 3 moves..

And thus the tease ensues. It means that we get 1 or 2 out of 4. maybe 3, but the golden chalice of 4/4 always slips like snot through our fingers. 3 out of 4 isn't bad I hear you say, but its always the most awkward un-useful combination.

And so the next corner beckons..the end?around the cornerup the gullyanother corner. Okay this ones looking good....A case study in tease. 3 lines each 3/4 in the most unhelpful combinations..

However

This crag has a lot to offer and is not really known about, so come for a wander, bring a pad especially if you're operating in the Font 3-6 range, and a rack if you like short interesting lines. Just no minibuses.

And there's still a few corners to explore around next time....



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Neverfall, and this years obsession
28 February 2014, 7:21 pm

Paid this months visit to the NeverFall project. The winter storms had done some work and washed down some of the smaller scree, I got stuck in with the larger bits and threw together some rudiments of a patio:

Note the level bit at the bottom, its getting bigger and longer....

Next visit will probably require a spade. I plan to start clearing the top next, as this will add lots of material to the patio and start to give an idea of what the finished version will look like. Also to keep dragging material down the slope to patio will eventually cause it own problems.

Not sure if anyone has joined in the prep work yet, but all efforts are welcome, even if its just one rock chucked...

The enormity of this years challenge is beginning to irk me somewhat. In trying to reduce my obsession by limiting my new routing efforts to boulders, I now have found myself taking on 12 futuristic projects in the same year. Admittedly the definition of "futuristic" varies from blank and inconceivable to not of a type generally attempted in the past (Benllech). Generally, futuristic to me means Cool (for a given value of cool), and "requiring a lot of effort" either in unraveling the intricacies, training really hard, or moving a mound of rubble to make it safe.

My phone now has a list of 12 projects in it, and I'll dish them out in an order specific to:

a) how much work there is to do

b) season

c) when I verify whether they actually exist or not (its that kind of list)

Another factor is Send-Tember. This September all my kids are in full time school for the first time. This sudden rush of freedom will hopefully full a rush of unparalleled adventure (or a monsoon), and Therefore those near this hallowed month are likely to be the ones I really don't want to share, but have to for the challenge...

I definately need to do some normal climbing too

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

A lotta wellie work
19 March 2014, 8:48 pm

Not quite got round to deciding on this months open project. As I intimated last month, I am feeling somewhat overwhelmed at the task ahead, and I can see a few giveaway's being inserted amongst the opens. Basically I wont get round to working them all. However it is a worthy aim. This month I have climbed my first trad route since August, and it should not have surprised me, therefore, that it was inordinately wiggy for the grade. I have also climbed 2 boulder problems, which although real (ie. outside) were not "established" (ie. at least more than 2 ascents I guess..) I also ended up trying something too hard which flared up some tendonitis.

This gave me an excellent opportunity to work through the list on my phone and establish the potential of those in the "rumours, optimism and myths" category. Hence, in a long winded way, why I'm still umming over this months choice. I've walked a lot of bog, I've found some proper rock, some real potential. So I'm still stuck deciding what to work. Some good stuff to come in the months ahead I think.

I'm supposed to be getting less obsessed, and getting out more on guaranteed fun fests. However, I guess I'm just as happy climbing vertical forest, questing for the lost boulder of Afon Berthin.

Here it is.

Not planning on working it myself so feel free. The chase is often more exciting than the catch, so the fishermen say..

enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Open Project of the Month - March
25 March 2014, 8:56 pm

As the last post stated, I've been trying too hard and flared up my elbows, April is promising a few bits of cool climbing, so I'm reining it in a bit for the moment, and here's the project(s) that are a bit too hard for me, although I may return once you've done them (Or before if you're tardy).

So James at work found a new boulder on Clegir, somewhere I thought I knew intimately. Intrigued I waited until he'd done what he wanted to do, and them swooped in for the crumbs.





A Very Cool boulder for Clegir as it happens, Although the landing was a bit poor. Some patioing was required...



This was the result



The Mats give scale..



So the established problems are as follows:

James' Sit Down F6B+ on the left of the pic, from the chalked slot to the top. (FA James Lloyd)

The Filling F6C From the right pillar, sort of following the slopey ramp via the tooth into the central rail and mantel out. Airy. (FA me)

The Projects up for grabs:

The Central crouching start. Its off the pinch and slopey crimp on the lowest rail, snatching through into the finish of The Filling. I had a good go at this and did all the moves, but the initial snatch was just too low percentage for me at the moment. Felt about F7B

James' Sit Down into the finish of The Filling via the slopey rail. Its a powerful sideways throw off a fingerlock in a sharp V slot (something I avoid on the original problem) to gain the pinch, and up into the previous project. Somewhat harder.

Ahh yes. to find the boulder park as for pig pen.Don wellies, and walk towards Llanberis a bit, until opposite the Beran road, quest down until you hit a wall and then follow it rightwards. the boulder is on the edge of the woods, just below a gate into the woods.

Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Neverfall, The March Trip..
26 March 2014, 8:31 pm

This trip saw me with rope and spade. The work moves forward and I'm beginning to visualise the finished product. My walk in was enlivened by a chance meeting with a friend Stuart, and the presence of Warner Bro's once more... I thought there was going to be no chance of me getting away with some minor excavations next to the tourist path, but my usual approach of chatting inanely away to all the security and workers meant that I was mainly ignored. It was only the Art department anyway and no filming involved, just making latex impressions of the walls...

Previously, I had assumed this stage would be fairly straightforward. My previous experiences in Film Set Quarry was that digging out and up was hard going, and I'd thought that pushing stuff over the edge would be swift. However, the work was slow going, as I didn't want to do anything silly, and the ground had more large bits tied in, meaning the spade bounced out. Next visit will include a fork methinks. Not too bad for a short session though.

A bit of rain should encourage the process, and once I've dug back a couple of extra feet, it'll all take shape. And hopefully it will also start to blend in...

The work so far, with the fence and rucksack giving a bit of scale. Its becoming clear that having this as the first of the open projects was a good thing, as out of all the nuggets on my hit list, is going to take the most, ahem, spade work..

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Bit of Bowldro
9 April 2014, 8:27 pm

I've yet to squeeze enough free time to tie on yet, but the bouldering is coming on in

dribs and drabs.

A team was assembled to try some exciting stuff in Dyffryn Mymbyr, but a strong wind an occasional raindrop signaled an exodus to Coed Aberglaslyn to seek out a fabled boulder... Which was wet.

Some scratching around on the moor above found a few titbits, with Ben's ascent of this 6A! proving the highlight.



James on an exciting repeat, you can see Ben's outstretched fingertips as he spots!

Most recently I've visited Braichmelyn for the first time, as part of my commitment this year to slow down my scratching around and actually climb some classics. Once I'd found the place, I quickly came to appreciate A) how good these "classics" can be, B) how stiff old skool problems can be, and C) how old skool crimping quickly draws blood...

I was most impressed by Briachmelyn arete which I will return to, as although it fulfills A,B and C, and it only comprises of a couple of very morpho moves, its very good.....

It has so many useless holds that it lures you into a myriad of attempts at different combinations with the promise of "it'll go this time.." Until C of course. I think I have a sequence for next time, however!

That need satiated, I'm off to scratch an itch tomorrow on what might be this years big personal project.

Wish me luck (thats its any copp)

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Open Project of the Month - April
12 April 2014, 3:43 pm



Passion versus Obsession. Two sides of the same hill, one side full of positivity, then go to far and you're over the brow and into the slough of despond. I seem to spend a lot of time teetering on the top of this hill, and it has happened again with the latest big discovery.





This is the chappy I discovered on my last (February) visit to Shale City. And very happy it made me too. Its solid and big (2m wide at the nose) and has lots on unhelpful slopey directional holds.

I returned with mats 2 months later during a neep tide and found this:

The pebble level had risen 1-2 feet, so the appealing huggable prow was off limits, and the arrival of spring had raised the algal growth. With a little trial and error I found that the rock cleaned up with some ragging ( a flannel, but next time a towel, more clean bits to use) followed by chalking and brushing off. With limited warm ups I found it slow to get going, but slowly pieced some links between holds and established some finishing points:



G was a highball finish and K was the lowball. I did a traverse from pockets C&D to K via F, and managed a lower start from B and D. I also went C&D up to G, E&H to F, J&I to K, and spent a while trying to link into this from the crack underneath (in Vid) via the cool pocket M.

This last project would be worthwhile regardless of pebble height, and if the pebble height lowers to previous levels then the A&B start can be used for the high traverse. The keel might be possible from the L hold by the strong, and with lower pebbles the talented may link the keel from A&B.

I've done enough obsession, but I'm passionate that someone should make something of this. I will next return at the end of spring tide cycle to see if the pebbles lower, but I'll want a spotter and less creaky elbows.

Don't try to solo out the back as the last 2 feet is shale cities finest.

Now for the location; Park at Trefor Beach and walk past the pier to the headland. Scramble down to the remains of the old pier and its found in the second cove. Its accessible about 1.5 hours either side of low tide. Here's a Pic.

Enjoy.



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

A Different Quarry
26 April 2014, 5:33 pm

Having spent so much time in the angularity of slate quarries, I took the opportunity to explore the quarry at Trefor during my visit last month (while waiting for the tide to drop). My Great Grandfather was from Trefor, and worked for a time in this quarry. Although I felt no connection here, it was interesting juxtaposing it with my experiences from the Slate quarries. These quarries are still active, although only on a very small scale.

The walk up. (brisk)

The first major difference with the Slate quarries, the derelict buildings are less middle earth, more Stalag 13; austere, and multi levelled, I didn't have time this visit to venture inside..

The quarries themselves, are generally ragbag and chossy, although I've seen pictures of more continuous walls in the upper levels, and there are some routes in the quarry at the top of Avernus. The Quarrying method seemed to be:A)Blow it UpB) Drag out the big bitsC) Cut up the big bits

One of the big bits that seems to be avoiding being cut up, beautiful texture, but in need of a little patioing.

The modern Quarryman. The Stone is primarily sought for Top End (Olympic) Curling Stones. Although there was also a little dressed stone. No new blasting of the faces occurs, but those loose blocks that exist are levered off  into the pile as needed

Curling stone waste from a more traditional quarryman

Another cool block, this time poised for the saw methinks...

The Pile. Much to play on here, but you project may eventually be thrown down the ice..

A Tunnel in the rubble. 10ft in diameter and it took all my will not to give in to exploring its depths (headtorch next time...)

Saw this lovely splitter and decided to investigate..

The spent charges still had wires in place. They may not blast the face, but they will blow things into manageable pieces.

A couple of really sexy blocks perched on the face. Sadly too detached to tempt the sportist, however, maybe a JCB will help a boulderer out? (there appeared to be one digger allotted to (abandoned on) each level)

Its not all about to fall off. There was this splitter next to a JCB.

So Trefor Quarry. You could lead there, but its a bit chossy. You could boulder there, but the boulders might be gone tomorrow. You could run around there like a big kid (like me), or walk the dog like the locals.

There's treasure everywhere!

Source: Hosey B

[Jaspersharpe]

I really like this blog. Cracking stuff as ever sir.

[Hoseyb]

  Thankyou Sir
I Seem to be getting the various routesetter's elbow issues under control now thanks to the elbow thread over on the cripple board, so things should continue.

And If you're ever in this neck of the woods, bring a spade for Never fall I can introduce you so some up and coming Open Projects of the Month (get a head start so to speak..) 

[comPiler]

Neverfall, the April Trip..
29 April 2014, 8:59 pm

So the long term trundle project. Took a bit of effort to get myself there this month as who wants to dig a hole? However, once there I realised that I do like this sort of sillieness, I don't know if its the physical labour, the absurdity, or the promise of something worthwhile on the horizon.

So we left it last month like this:



This was the first attempt at reducing the death hat and bring in a more thank god top out. This was the result of 1-2 hours with a spade, minimum chat, but copious tea.

This is what it looked like one month later. Obviously the hordes of well wishers and collaborators were unable to make much of a dent, nor was the rain. Looks like this continues to be my own particular windmill.This visit I abandoned the spade in favour of the Fork and poking it a bit with me hands.This is the results of my allotted hour (had to back for Dad stuff). Less tea drinking but more chin wagging this time (Dog walkers, slackliners and Ian off to work project #99998):

This method certainly seems a winner as I'm almost down to the top of the wall. The plan is to start with a narrow channel down to the edge at a sensible angle, and fan it out to give an easy escape route that produces minimal rubbernecking.

Beginning to get excited.

Source: Hosey B

[fatneck]

  with Jasper...

Also, re Trefor Quarry, any access issues?

[Hoseyb]

I'm sure there are load of access issues at Trefor quarry, at least in the bit that faces the village, as opposed to the bits above avernus. However, I wouldn't try bolting it anyway so that leaves trad and bouldering, which are very easy to do on the QT. If they aren't working up there (which is the vast majority of the time), then you're only going to see dog walkers.

When I've been visited by someone elsewhere in the past I find approaching them first, showing interest in what goes on, explaining what I'm trying to do, and asking them if it's ok tends to smooth things over. 

I seem to spend a lot of time poking around in grey areas, and on the whole a smile and a bit of humilty allows you to get up to all sorts of shenanigans.  

[fatneck]

Awesome! Thanks

[comPiler]

A Bit of a Pootle
5 May 2014, 1:40 pm

Went for a quick jaunt round Dinorwig slate quarry revisiting some old haunts. Its been a while, and some spots its been years, so I was interested to see how things have changed.

First off, there's been a big slip at the back of Australia, right from the top. Basically, the top pitch or so of "If you kill people, they die" have popped down the crag, finishing up by scouring the 1st pitch off:

Harold Walmsey's routes should have survived, but the bolts are probably worth checking..

I then Wandered along upper Peregrine walls to Golgotha. There are a few new blocks down on the path, but at Golgotha there's been a few changes..

A big slip above Golgotha has taken out the big block in the wall above the path, by the egg boulder. This has finished off the demolition job on the hut, loosened up a whole new section, and revealed a new groove.

Golgotha wall got a scouring and the 1st bolt on "Slip of the tongue" is now 8ft off the deck rather than 20 or so. making for a bolder proposition. Bolts are resin and generally look unscathed. "The Daddy Club" is untouched..

The scramble up to Suncharm Ledge now seems a tad more straight forward, and this venue looks as enticing and untouched as always..

A visit is on the cards

As My friend Gary used to say "Don't get crushed or mashed.."

Source: Hosey B

[Hoseyb]

Updated this with a piccy of the new boulders at Golgotha, visit site to view i guess.. All exciting in the quarries at the mo' with the bottom of patellaectomy falling off as well..
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2014/05/06/dinorwig-quarry-rock-falls-patellaectomy-start-affected/

 

[comPiler]

Neverfall nights
8 May 2014, 10:15 am

I was going to call it night digging, and then I googled it..

So when you have 3 boys under the age of six the bedtime routine can be a little rowdy. Logan (5) likes to avoid the whole scenario by creative use of the word "no", Dylan (3) claims his legs don't work and glues himself to the floor, and Ethan (also 3) turns all Drop Bear. Last night got a little on top of me, so I was directed to the door to destress myself.

So I did what any sensible person (who can't climb at the moment) would do, which is pack my fork and head to the quarries. More Phil Harding than Grendel, I thought I'd make use of a dry evening, rather than today's drizzle.

I paused above the monkey bar area to get a better picture of the rockfall on patellaectomy.



I doesn't look that good, you can see the fractures go right to the top, and the cracks above the bars appear to have opened up slightly. I reckon it'll strip to the top before it stabilizes, but at least there will be a climbable version left afterwards, if not at E1.

I had a great time at Neverfall, some how a chair and yellow sign has appeared at the bottom, but I was to engrossed in levering  blocks to investigate, so they're a bit buried now. Its starting to take shape at the top now, I even cleared the top out jugs with my fork. Promptly buried them again of course, but its getting there. I've excavated some substantial masonry at the top which may have been a retaining wall (very Time Team) which has molded my plans somewhat.

Originally I envisaged a flop ledge and a walk off ramp. These blocks are a tad too substantial to trundle, and therefore I started thinking of a combination of flop ledge and an easy, straightforward and above all Stationary set of steps. However, this poses more issues regarding the ergonomics of the flop ledge.

If you are going to flop (or elegantly mantle) into a space and not feel like you are going to wobble and die, how large should that space be? a waist to head length to allow gibbering whaling? or ankle to knee to allow prayer?

I think the end result will hopefully be somewhere in the middle. This is due to the aforementioned blocks being less than two meters from the edge, and the edge being slightly more that a meter below the bottom edge of the lowest block so far uncovered.

A stepped concavity is the best I can produce I think, but I am aiming for at least half a meter of clear flat ledge.

Lots of soil now to clear in the lower regions, so a Trowel will be packed next visit.

Its getting a little to close to being ready now, at some point we're going to have to try to climb it!

Returned home very relaxed, if a little dirty.



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Twll Mawr- North Wall; A Personal View
22 May 2014, 8:25 pm

I had the pleasure of climbing the Desolation of Smaug (TDOS) on Sunday, this is a 6 pitch sport route that picks its way up the back wall of Twll Mawr, skipping either side of a feint faultline to maximise the climbing of clean unfractured rock. The first ascentionist had obviously thought about its impact on existing routes and bolted sensitively to create a very safe and enjoyable excursion up the back wall.

My first excursion into this arena of adventure was in 2002, when Tom Shaw and myself took 7 hours to re climb what was left of Opening Gambit, after the rockfalls of the 90's. This included going off route, partially ascending the Gay Blade, abseiling off a block of slate wedged across a groove to regain the line, and only just making it for last orders at the Vaynol in Nant Peris. I was hooked on this alpine crucible, closer than Cloggy, requiring less petrol than Gogarth, and (contrary to popular belief) less likely to fall on you than the llyn. I climbed this line 2 more times, the final outing being solo. a hiatus followed whilst I looked for a willing climbing partner. Hamadryad followed; a splendid outing which was worth 2 stars at the time, however the vegetation has got a little rowdy so some secateurs may be needed to bring it back to stardom (it is named after a woodland spirit after all).

I followed this with a 10 pitch Girdle of Twll Mawr (as you do). Taith Mawr was climbed over two  7 hour days, in the company of a very Game Jon Byrne (I believe he has recovered), I told him it would be about HVS, rather than the E4/5 it turned out to be.

I regard Taith Mawr as a high point in my new routing, certainly the hardest on sight I've done, with many "challenging" sections where psychological fortitude was as important a the gaffa tape holding the slings on. It is still unrepeated, although a few connoisseurs have shown interest.

With my love of this wall it was natural that as I got involved in the Slate guide, I would cover this bit. I knew I wasn't enough of a rock star to cover the Quarryman wall, and so Mr Robins took care of that, But I Threw myself into getting to know the wall intimately. I abseiled the middle section of the wall, cleaning the upper pitch of True Finish, and levering a 20ft x 3ft Column of pitch 1 of bushmaster which had made the route unjustifiable. I also replaced the bolts on Razors edge (the Hamadryad bolts are redundant with cam protection) and  popped in a couple of escape bolts (the wall required me to use both a 100m and 60m Static tied together). I also had a very nice amble up Bushmaster with the Scorpion finish with Mike Raine (where I saw the Beast in Me for the first time). Incidentally, using Bushmaster P1 to start it Scorpion can be a very nice E2, and switch back to Bushmaster at the Balcony and you have a reasonable 4 pitch HVS.

I digress..

Whilst Researching the Guide, I was privileged to have a panad with Joe Brown. He was very passionate about Twll mawr, stating that it was amongst the 4 most adventurous walls in North Wales, and as well as discussing the established routes, we discussed the ones that got away. The shield of rock that hosts TDOS is bound on its left border by the faultline of Hamadryad, and on its right by a fault line and dolerite intrusion, just to the right of the Razors edge / True finish. This zone was subject to many probes by Brown; The Direct to Razors Edge (too loose), the right Bounding Faultline (retreat from high on the wall due to more scary detached blocks) and the Shield Itself.

Joe got high on the slab, halting where a rib petered out, and placing 2 hand drilled  bolts to escape with.. Marked with a D on this Picture.

Ray Kay tried this same line much later, and with a couple of bolts to spur him on, carried on to a high point marked as B with a algae colonised pink sling.

The Spot marked as C is the belay at the end of pitch 2 of TDOS, and it was at this belay that I pondered on all of this; the history, both personal and corporate that has gone before on this wall. While I don't begrudge TDOS right to exist on this back wall (as I said I really enjoyed it), it would be a shame if all this potential for real adventure is lost under a fog of bolts. However, I'm sure no more sport routes could find a home here amongst its complex of ledges and faults. What would be a shame would be if no more adventure routes were to be born here.

It would be a shame if this line so rich in history, remains unclimbed, so I encourage those of a similar heart to finish off the work of Brown and Kay. The bolt belay of TDOS would mean that the section of steepness halting the progress of Ray Kay (although it may have been not enough rope length left...) is no longer life threatening and should lead swiftly to the Angel belay of Taith mawr (end of P4, marked with an A). The Punters retreat could then take you to the top.

2 new Pitches soaked in history.

Get to it, or I may have to do it myself..



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Open Project of the Month - May
28 May 2014, 5:06 pm

Its started to get warmer in Wales. I got my first bit of sunburn due to careless herding of my tribe up to Idwal this week, and the cool of the mountains is definitely calling. One spot that is easy for me to get to from home is Cwm Marchlyn. Not exactly a boulderer's paradise but there is things to scratch at, and its easily accessible by foot or bike. The latter allows a swift return due to the Reservoir road, although I've yet to brave it with a pad. The most well known are the Marchlyn boulders, a small collection of so so boulders by the Marchlyn Bach Reservoir (also this in the adjacent Quarry). Cycle / plod to the bend at the top of this reservoir and the plod approach to the Cwm Elidir boulders is found:

Home to this Puppy, as well as a series of slabs and highballs for the dedicated truffle hunter.

Recently I went to the Top; the Boulders of Craig Cwrwgl. Tipped off by the topo in the Ogwen guide (the boulders shown are so so, with one roof crack to seek out) I instead discovered these:

Massive Dolerite beauties of the Finest Brown Stuff!

This chap became the focus of my attention, as it had a very pretty face.. However the landing required work...

Next visit up pacified the landing somewhat, and still sans pad, I picked of the plum easier lines; the scoop and the blunt rib on the righthand side, the easy overlaps, the sitter up the righthand side of the nose to the eroded scoop, became Erodeo. On the Left hand side, the less than subtle campusfest became Ledgehammer. There's a line left of this that I required more of a safety net for, same for the stand on the left side of the nose. The sitter on the left side of the nose is the Open Project (as are all the unclimbed lines really) Undercuts, compression, poor feet and directional holds will gain the stand. A bit like a font extreme version of Braichmelyn arete, except instead of F7A sit/F5 stand its probably a F6cish stand and much harder sit (I could see the positions, just not hold them).

Another View of the Bloc. Just behind it is a steep boulder with a slopey lip. I climbed it  on the righthand side from a sitter off jugs with an exciting landing. I threw a heel up and thought of a vid I'd seen of The Prow at Cratcliffe, as I couldn't find it again here's Warm Love, same idea.

However,  as my trousers velcroed themselves to the extreme friction of the mighty brown, I stopped emulating the bespectacled grit guru, and with the focus provided by a hillside of spikey rocks wriggled like an epileptic catapillar..

The result was Livesey's Love Child.

The three named problems were in the F6B range, others were easier and there's plenty still to go at.

Enjoy.



Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

Good find Hosey, that looks like some top potential there!

[comPiler]

Random Musings whilst Dylan Sits on my Head
7 June 2014, 12:25 pm

Since writing the piece on Twll Mawr, I appear to have reawakened my passion for the place...

I'v not been too psyched for the quarries since the last big push for the guide, but although I can't get excited about another line of bolts or those classics that might hurt me,  the back wall is a special place.

I'm starting to consider getting on Razor's edge, as its the easiest of two I have left on the back wall (True Finish basically boils down to a single seporate pitch I've abbed but not got captured by). Who knows, I may even get the urge to do something new. Let me know if you're up for an adventure, or wanting to finish of Joe and Ray's work (if it stops raining)

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Thoughts on Soloing, and how far someone will drag a Mat?
12 June 2014, 10:00 pm

It was a glorious day today, and I was priveliged to be allowed to put Fatherhood aside and go and enjoy myself. I had first thought to get in Twll Mawr, but with Tarzan filming, I may have caused issues. I then got psyched to do a classic and get a little boldness training. However, all my climbing partners seemed otherwise engaged. No matter, I thought. Why not have a solo day. I had been keen on doing Zeta, or Stairway to Heaven if a partner had materialized, so I decided on Western Slabs / Slow Ledge Climb as a good combo of classics I hadn't done.

I haven't racked up much real rock time this year, but felt at peace about the route choices, having a good margin of grades in hand. This opinion changed on the crux of the first pitch (4b). Looking back this may have been due to; someones lower off gear being left in place just below me, holds being a bit smeggy / polished, soloing onsight, carrying a (small)rucksack, or just being out of practice.

However, something must of clicked as I pushed on and got to the next pitch. This was a bit more straightforward and my footwork felt a lot more confident and stable.

I was also aware that I couldn't make a mistake. Yes I had plenty of grades in hand, but with a rope, gear (or not - I'm not sure that's the point) and most importantly a partner climbing is so much easier. Mistakes may be painful or even life threatening, but not guaranteeing certain death. At least not the things I tend to play on nowadays.

On the third pitch I jibbed out the crux by traversing around the rib and using the holds round the back, I just didn't see the justification in such risk. It may be a good route, but polished and is my life worth a VS?

On top of the nose I thought about bailing, but the description of Slow Ledge seemed much more my territory, and so it was, some vegetation (negotiable) hard bits with positive holds, and due to rougher rock, no slippy polish!

I may have left my soloing days behind me after today I think. My late 20's in the quarries were punctuated with some pretty full on outings; Opening Gambit, Buffer in a Crackhouse (onsight), even onsight new route solo's like If you Kill People... and the Green Flash Challenge. But leaving my 30's what have I to gain? The experience brings less and the cost is higher, certainly to my family.

I think this is why I like highballs. Risk of injury without the certainty of death is a more palatable tipple, and I can push close to the limit without having to line up a surrogate dad for the boys.

Topping out on the Mot, I contemplated the universe, and all the lovely rock. There's loads up here including some really cool looking boulder size bits:

Overhanging widness in the background...





This one was too good to leave unclimbed:



The vertical wall went on layaways until the crack hit the slab, where the crack opened enough to admit fingerlocks. It took over half an hour to bag it, as the vert section had very poor feet, the locks were baggy, and the layaways were slopey. Oh and I didn't want to break my legs. Wasn't going to kill me though, and the point of commitment when the heel was thrown up was as good a moment of clarity as in any past solos. Toying with the name Kick out The Jams, as that song sprung into my head as I re-lived the experience back on the ground. Font 6C! is my guess but pfff! who knows. let me know if you repeat it.Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Open Project of the Month - June
26 June 2014, 6:27 pm

Almost didn't make it this month, as I had a particularly special chappie in mind, and was waiting for the stars to align.... only for the good weather to come to an end. However, a window of opportunity opened today and another Gem was visited.

This month is another criminally neglected past Giveaway, that I have chosen to take on myself until the rightful owner takes up the gauntlet. Okay, my directions may have been a little vague, and info sparse, but I may have been rushing that month.

Usual approach to Dyffryn Mymbyr; first layby after the chicane travelling from Pen y Grwyd to Capel, over the road and 5 bar gate, follow the fence up to the wall. Now over the wall and follow it to the right until this appears:

This is the Cube. The photo is a little tilted back and its more like this:

Now the issues with the Cube are: 1) its quite big and technical, and 2) the landing is a leeetle slopey and many of the central lines require a chute and pit approach to matting. the exception being this arête:

Although this is more of a stepped or tiered matting situation.Basically it requires a team approach to mat acquisition and a bit of pushing and shoving.As I was on my lonesome this visit, I concentrated on getting the groove line done and playing on the other starts. Thankfully the groove was fall free, however, I successfully tested the chute while playing on the central cube arête line.

After succeeding on the groove I repeated it for a vid. Its a bit long but will give you the opportunity to take the piss a bit..

Manly Groove F6B!

I think for a good play 6 mats divided between 3 players would work well.

Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[Hoseyb]

Thinking of a trip to this area (Dyffryn Mymbyr) on Tuesday if anyone wants a tour
 

[Hoseyb]

Good Day out in the end. billy no mates as predicted, but repeated a couple of old problems (Happy Feet and Heel Keel for those whose sifted the blog). Failed on these recently so happy enough, and I think my old grades where probably on the money. Expect more core training and less soft grades from me...