[comPiler]

Another Giveaway becomes Reality!
1 August 2013, 4:10 pm

Giveaway Project of the Month November 2011

Is now

Ayers and Graces

Boom! The system works...

Assuming the First Ascentionist is a reader of course, and why wouldn't he be ;-)

Source: Hosey B

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September Sessions- Day One
13 September 2013, 1:26 pm

"Desire is repressed fire, Drinking gasoline"

-Soul Coughing

1st session on the Beast last Tuesday, I was more keen to find out whether my pitiful efforts at stretching had any effect than getting any real progress. I was felling tired from childcare anyway, and I needed to develop some strategies for a prolonged siege.

Step one - The rig. I played with a mini traxion on the static with a shunt backup on a dynamic next door. This allowed free movement on the linked sections but I guess any mucking around on your own above a big hole feels wiggy.

Step two - Elbow protection. I'm not going to get many goes if I keep mashing what skin I have left. Neoprene turned out to be too slippy, and it came back to a good old fashioned tape job to allow some skin retention.

Step three- The Link. On the way down I did my usual play on the top section crux. This felt harder than usual, so I knew not to be too disheartened on my attempts below...

I still felt like giving up, but only for a moment, as the positives started to stack up.

1) a poor intermediate foothold, that allows me to reach a more solid bar, cut everything else loose, and lift the damn hoof onto the hold (If its good enough for Caff...)

2) the whole 8 or so meters has now been wriggled up in overlapping sections.

3) finding lots of poor scuffy foot torques that give a lot more than dragging up an open flared knee bar

4) my fingers have improved, so I can hold the poor pocket and cut loose onto the top crimp one handed without pinging off.

Small negatives like needing 10+ rests in 8m, and still aching 2 days later are going to have to be ignored, I'm back up there next week after all..

Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway Project of the Month- September
15 September 2013, 2:23 pm

On my stroll into the Beast I spotted this continuous slab stretching 3 levels at the back of Heavens walls.

Easy access top and bottom, the ledge at 2 thirds height would suggest it would suit a 2-3 pitch bolted route rather than a single pitch. However, its what you make of it really. Unlike the south wall of Twll Mawr, this bit also gets a fair bit of sun (and less punters throwing rocks...)

Enjoy...

Source: Hosey B

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September Sessions - Day Two
18 September 2013, 7:31 pm

"Let's go to Work"-Joe Cabot; Reservoir Dogs

8 Days later and I'm back on the Fox Path. I've a bit of a cold, my scabs are still healing and its drizzling on and off.

No more excuses, lets put some effort in. In reality the meat of the route overhangs enough to keep dry in the rain, and the top half soon dries in the breeze. More experimentation with tape; wider on the elbow and a upper calf band to steady the kneebar (too much geeking on Widefetish). I also fitted in a warm up.Bang! First melee straight through to last foot hold, hand in pocket. That's a bit more positive, and my preclimb burn on the upper crux had felt smooth despite my tiredness, its beginning to dial in. From the pocket to the eagle's nest is a short fight through a gurka bar. but I get there with a third of the rests of last time, and a whole lot of data to process. After a moments cogitating (and panting) I drop down to below the pocket and try to chunk it together. Bam. Minimal fuss and I'm savoring through to the belay.

So with efficient taping, Intelligent foot and bar work, and a very small amount of blood I've whittled the living end down to two overlapping segments.

Time to lead me thinks... However next sesh is set to be next Tuesday, if the weather doesn't play ball or belayer doesn't land it'll be fitness sesh or another shunt.

happy happy joy joy..

Source: Hosey B

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September Sessions - Day 3 (of 3!)
24 September 2013, 4:55 pm

"I'm getting too old for this shit"

-Roger Murtaugh; Lethal Weapon

The Deed is done. I hitched a lift to Bus Stop and met my belayer Ben, Then made my way via all the little rituals on the way. Looning the tube  col, touch my toes, up to the coat huts, touch toes again... abb in and do my kicks and flicks. Tape my elbow, tape my knee. squeak my boots...

In the end it was straight forward, as often these practiced things are, although the panic as I popped out the end of the offwidth section, and the scrabbling for the eagle's nest provided an ethical dilemma. My foot scuffed the bolt below me as I lurched to match the exit crimp. I didn't fully weight my foot but it still wigged me out, spoiling my pure ascent. In the end my solution was to down climb back to left hand on the crimp, hang it footless and swung into the match before climbing back to the nest a little bit happier, if panting a little harder.

So 2-3 years later The Beast in Me is a reality. Hard Very Marvelous 20m 5 bolts and a Cam#2, draws in place on the bolts, Cam placed on lead. All my favorite flavors in one route; offwidth, boulder, technical and a little bit of bold.

The Giveaways have left this my Last Project, and while I'm looking forward to getting on some classics and enjoying other people's work, it felt a bit weird finishing off the last runout.

Flopping onto the top, so in control and , this sense of detachment troubled me. Now that all the adrenaline and bull has worn off, however, I see its just the tension between wanting the project to be over, and wanting the buzz of the chase to continue.

The game is still afoot, just with less cleaning and more stars...

Source: Hosey B

[Jaspersharpe]

Fucking hell, brilliant! Been following your efforts and it sounded like you were miles off getting it done until really recently.

Just shows what hard work and bloody mindedness can achieve.

Nice one!

[Hoseyb]

Cheers Jasper

amazing what a few press ups can do...

Its the first time I've had to be aware of the nuances of an armbar, rather than just chucking one in.

I'm still feeling funny about how easy it seemed on the day. I guess that there is some truth in the idiom that the moves on slate are impossible until they're easy.

[comPiler]

The Beast in Chains
26 September 2013, 7:55 pm

So after a few days reflection I realized someone might want to actually repeat it, so I thought I had better include a description:

The Beast in Me - Hard Very Marvelous F7+ 20m

The Offwidth groove system leaving the tunnel of the penultimate belay of Scorpion- Mordor side.

Approach by abseil, climbing Scorpion, or deathly traverse (Twll mawr Side).

Protection is bolts and a Cam#2.

Climb the bolted offwidth groove to the Eagle's nest. Rest, then boulder past the roof to the highboard. Ponder, then tech your way to the summit via a jam or two (cam), some head scratching (bolt) and some welcome jugs (a way above the bolt).

Mark Dicken 24/9/2013

The timid could reduce the run out with a fiddly wire, but they are unlikely to arrive at this point.

The Collected Saga in Posts

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/brewing-next-years-psyche.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/getting-beasted.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/initial-tickle.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/block-talk.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/beast-in-me.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/back-on-beast.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/the-beast-is-caged.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/brewing-up.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/building-bigger-anvil.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/first-blood.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/twilight-shunt.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/red-point-1-hosey-nil.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/september-sessions-day-one.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/september-sessions-day-two.html

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/september-sessions-day-3-of-3.html

I guess looking back at all the nerding and noodling certain lessons could be learnt:

1) Know yourself and accept yourself. I'm not the lunatic I once was, I don't think I could have ever climbed it trad, and no one would be bothered to repeat it anyway.

2) Accept pain.

3) Refining technique and protecting your skin is a lot more valuable than dangling from a wooden box.

4) Flexibility is great, but technique and craftiness is easier.

I intend to return at some point to see if I can improve my style on the vice section, and I'd like to get some piccies as a memento, so watch this space.

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.”

? Ernest Hemingway



Source: Hosey B

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Tea and Medals
11 October 2013, 6:18 pm

A.K.A. Closure

This week started rubbish as I had a stinking cold and sore throat. Come the day of operation photoshoot, I was still horse and feeble acting, and the day was cold and grey. No rain though, so a quit the whinging was called for, as a bunch of very nice people had come along to make the day happen. Here's the Result:

Not only did I get to pose, I also got the Groove all clean and tidy, no banging metalwork or throwing toys out the pram (third go anyway). The cold temps and my general grottieness made it feel slippery and hard today, the day of the send I was a wheel spinning hot rod, today I was more of a rusty landrover. But Chug up it I did.

Happy Days. One Chapter over, and I'm looking forward to starting the next with some new endeavour, like repeating some well trod classics maybe....

Watch this space!

Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

Nice one beast.

[Hoseyb]

Cheers,
Happy as a geek at comiCon.
Although its going to take a knowledgeable repeater, to take away the nagging doubt that I was just being a bit week and its actually Whillans HVS... 

[masonwoods101]

Although its going to take a knowledgeable repeater

. Hint hint to someone in particular?

[Hoseyb]

Suitable parties have been informed. yes.
 

[masonwoods101]

 

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Hat's out, all out
12 November 2013, 9:56 pm

Hat came out of the box today, Two weeks later than the last year, due to warmth and wetness. Today was sunny and crisp, and I wasn't at work.. HOORAY!!! I was given strict instructions by my lovely wife to go out and have fun, and as luck would have it.. I did.

Messrs Caffity and Cal were having a crack at some hard thing on the red walls promontory, Woo was along as lensman, and I was invited as general chummer company and passenger.

The sun was balmy, the rock solid, the project nails. I enjoyed traversing back and forth along the lower fringes of the promontory, soaking rays and spotting lines (more research needed) as Caff looked for handholds (small) and footholds (poor). There was even some insitu gear (rusty). Cal had a play on top rope and then they thought they'ed let the passenger have a go. Blow me, I even managed to climb some of it....

Anyhoo, Caff then dispatched it with minimal fuss and the long jug back to red walls began, tiring for someone who's only trained for trying hard over a max of 10 meters. The real treat was that Caff pottered up Anarchist in his trainers dragging a rope, and therefore I got to experience red wall for the first time ( I know, I've a lot of non quarry experience to catch up on..) By Light house and sunset, up an amazingly enjoyable, interesting and a little adventurous route.

Yes I need to get out more, and I think I will.

happy place



Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway Project of the Month, and 2013's Giveaway list!
17 December 2013, 2:45 pm

Right, a good year was had; The last 2 personal projects were sent, (Big Bad Bari and The Beast in Me) and all others have been given away.... On the negative side, concentrating on these has probably reduce my climbing time this year to an all time dribble, but that means that 2014 can be all about getting out, enjoying repeats and reducing obsession... a bit.

However, If you are too slack I might have to revisit some of these Giveaways... Speaking of which:

This little buttress is between Crib Goch and Crib y Ddysgl, and boasts a "fear of infection" style pitch just left of centre of the photo. Mountaineering in approach (especially this time of year) but a stout pitch nonetheless. There seem to be many single pitch possibilities on this crag, so maybe a leisurely visit is in order...

This Years other Giveaways

Novemberhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/giveaway-project-of-month-november.htmlRed wall Promontory Trad Action

Octoberhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/giveaway-project-of-month-october.htmlMordor groove slate sport potential

Septemberhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/giveaway-project-of-month-september.htmlLost world slate slab.. May have sprung bolts already so hold back for news...

Augusthttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/giveaway-project-of-month-august.htmlDinas Mot Trad arete

Julyhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/getting-out-and-giveaway-project-of.htmlCwm Uchaf Highball Craglet

Junehttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/giveaway-of-month-june.htmlThe Upper boulder field of Dyffryn Mymbyr

Mayhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/giveaway-project-of-month-may.htmlThe Thin slate crack of Heavens cutting

Aprilhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/big-bad-bari-lives-giveaway-project-of.htmlThe Boulder keel next to Big Bad Bari

Marchhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/giveaway-project-of-month-march.htmlThe multi pitch dolerite vein of Scrag End

Februaryhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/giveaway-project-of-month-feburary.htmlScrag end slate sport project

Januaryhttp://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/giveaway-project-of-month-january.htmlThe overhanging slate wall sport project of Vilca Pampa

Enjoy!

Source: Hosey B

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First Pootle of the Year
3 January 2014, 11:55 am

I got out for a bit of a wander yesterday...

I have declared that this year will be the year of the classic, the year of the repeat, and in general, a year of reducing the new routing obsession that has signified previous years.

To prevent complete cold turkey I am allowing myself to pursue new boulder problems, as long as I do more established boulder problems than new ones (something I struggle with).

So obviously the first thing I do is go bushwacking for new stones...

Arse end of penllyn Padarn, Tick! one nice boulder to revisit.

Depths of the seiont river, No tick but a nice ramble over abandoned railway workings.

I then broke for some socialising at the Beacon, and managed to ascend Pete Robins new red route in the routing roof. Pleased with this as its classic ledge shuffling and 3D thinking. Suitably psyched I drove off to Benllech and found a new path to the shuffling cave. His is a former Giveaway of the month and something I'm keen to get done so watch this space. I then came over all Hillebrandt and started bouldering a section in my wellies. Needless to say, wellies are fine for big barnicle slopers and chimneying, but once I was 20ft up above the boulders, their ability on wet little edges came into doubt. Some furious reversing returned me to the ground, and a return match has been booked.

Watch this space....

Source: Hosey B

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Open Project - first visit to Neverneverfall
24 January 2014, 7:54 am

Got a dry moment yesterday to reacquaint myself with this, as its been a few years since took it seriously. First impressions were Noooooooooo! as it looked death.



The Slab looked like thisNo real grips, futuristic like I thought, and a bit high, very high, too high? well its an open project so maybe not for someone. Also, as the slope leading in is quite steep, there was lots of patio material. I set to work  on the ground works, as this is the fun bit, none of that updown updown struggle for me.. Just giggling as I destabilized the slope and rained boulders down into the pit, proper juvenile adventure.

A Before Piccy

And Afterwards

Still lots to do but come and have  a trundle as its good fun, if a little "exciting"

Next mission is to make it possible to top out...

Fortunately there is a bomber belay

Then its clean the wall and play...I understand that the previous post was a little vague on the location. Its below the tourist path in the back of the cereal bowl (lower tier). I'll take a better piccy next time.

Enjoy



Source: Hosey B

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Open Project of the Month - February
2 February 2014, 1:12 pm

Yes its early in the month, and yes a slight change in post title (to reflect this years challenge etc..) But I'm quite excited about this one.

In an Earlier post I alluded to a former Giveaway of the month . Having calculated that a low tide of under 2m was required, plans were made for the end of January, and a small team assembled. Despite the best planning, we arrived to torrential rain, which ceased 4 songs later to release us from the epic mobile into a drenched Benllech. As ever my optimism drove me to drag the pad down and we settled down for a soggy session. Dim ots, as the say as due to its extreme tidal nature its always sopping anyway, and part of the fun.

The problem starts 30-40ft back in the cave at an obvious chockstone. The Nature of the challenge meant that no chalk was taken (too wet) and tape gloves and an old jacket were deployed (barnacles)..



Myself golem-like and wedged in the niche directly after the chock stone, and pulling round the 1st bulge.



Ben Egypto-Barring and myself beginning to Bez slightly.



Eventually through tiredness and lack of 3D processing we both got to this point and plopped off to sterilise our wounds...



The Jaws required more victims so come and play! The cave is just around the corner from hidden wall, and is easily accessed by those who can use Googlemaps...

The Rules

Start at the chockstone, don't touch the ground until at the top of the crag.

No chalk, use adequate protection against barnacles.

We will be going back in warmer weather so we are more aware of the damage we are doing to ourselves, so why not get in contact, and come along for a team effort.

Photos by Charlotte who refused to play that day...



Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

That looks well classic :D

[Hoseyb]

A lot of fun if a little damp and bloody. Warmer conditions may allow more concious pressure application to the barnacles, and maybe less blood letting.

Can't see it ever being dry tho'



Going to be down this way  in the Spring? maybe coinciding with a spring tide perhaps?

[Fiend]

Fuck no!

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The Pursuit of BOTM
14 February 2014, 11:22 pm

Those of you in the know, will recognize the above acronym as the on-line journal of the Big G. Someone who's ceaseless tramping in search of unclimbed pebbles is as insatiable as it is readable, and may have influenced the monthly giveaways. This particular BOTM had me intrigued and as soon as an opportunity presented itself I found myself on a jaunt to shale city.

This was the day after storms had blacked out much of North Wales and the unceasing winter rain had saturated every inch of terra firma. So if I found dry rock, it was likely to be always so..

The storm has littered the cliff top path with sea life

Shale city comes into view

The actual zig zag path down, those following the path at the back of the zawn as per G's instructions may suffer humour failure. I reversed and approached as per the Llyn guide, using this path to climb out, rather than the Aiguille Merlot which looked tempting but deadly.

Shale city, Ugly (the central fault) is its most famous route but the area suffers from heavy seeping and leprosy.

One of G's teasers. Its gets wet. However, as Benllech has shown, this may not affect its crack climbing.

Inside the caves there are some quick drying, non seeping lines, totally nails of course, but maybe someones cup of tea.



A very hard crack line, that wasn't wet despite this round the corner..

So there it is. Don't think I'll tie on here, and I may not have found anything to magnetically draw me back. But there's a lot more to place than the publicity suggested. Come you firebrands and claim your glory.



Source: Hosey B

[Hoseyb]

I just realised how that post title reads....

[Fiend]

Entirely accurate to the rock features in question then