[Duncan Disorderly]

Indeed... Blocking out the internal chattering is no bad thing and something I really need to work on... My problem was that I'd built it up in my mind to be something it wasn't and couldn't get past that, letting go was the real key for me I think... Think I also recited "I'm Adam Ondra - I've got a really long neck" but this may have caused me to laugh again and almost drop the hard clip.. .Doh!

Effort on Sufferance.. Is this the one Fiend did? Sounds amazing if so...

:D

[Fultonius]

Quote function fail!

Yeah, it's the same one Fiend did - it's been getting a lot of traffic recently!

Redpointing is such a different kettle of fish to Trad onsighting...

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically Rock Idol in July. 6C.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T- Nothing.
W- Skipping, powerball, Beastmaker repeaters. Full set on back three for first time. 
T- Rest.
F- Nothing. Drove to Llanberis in evening.
S- Lost my slate cherry. Also first sport climbing in two years. Onsighted 6b which is a personal best. Felt like I could redpoint or even onsight harder. Spent too long on sport routes getting acclimatised to the rock to get much trad done, but I'll be back!
S- Pass trad multipitch.  Awesome weekend.

[Muenchener]

S- Lost my slate cherry. ... Onsighted 6b which is a personal best.

Congratulations! Which one?

It's odd and perhaps a little sad, but now that I live midway between the Alps and the Frankenjura, one aspect of British climbing that I miss - and will probably make a nostaglic return trip for at some pont - is the slate. Probably comes of having been in a club that had a hut right between Vivian and Bus Stop - and being a wuss on anything vaguely steep or pumpy!

[cheque]

S- Lost my slate cherry. ... Onsighted 6b which is a personal best.

Congratulations! Which one?

One called In Loving Memory on the Sidings level in Australia. I did all 15 or so routes on that level (puntersville basically) and that was the hardest. It was only after doing them all without a fall that I felt ready for trad- cruised Seamstress as the sun set and wished I had time for more. But the sport session gave me the feel for the rock and that confidence, so a bit of a Catch 22.

Slate suits me, too- I'm so much better on slabs that I normally only climb them as a 'treat'! It was a great experience climbing in the quarries. I visited them numerous times as a kid (I had one of those Dads who's obsessed with mines and quarries etc.) and have aspired to climb there for ages. Felt like a good acheivement even though I was climbing literally the easiest stuff there!

[Muenchener]

I'm so much better on slabs that I normally only climb them as a 'treat'!

A policy I am also trying to adopt. My "slabs" pyramid currently tops out at 6b+ onsight that felt quite ok, my "steeps" pyramid at a 6b flash that felt like a total fluke, normally I'm happy if I get up overhanging 6a+. Answer: climb more steep stuff.