[shark]

Weight 11.6-3

M Noon. Comprehensive DB, bar and deadhanging session. Eve AeroCap in Shed. 14 laps before interupted.
T. Noon. Board endurance Quite tired and did a bit less well than last week but not surprising after yesterdays sessions. Eve. Belayed Poppy at Edge and did some campus work.
W.
T. AM Physio. Shoulder Ok'ed. PM. Nettle buttress. Greasy conditions. Toys for the Boys first redpoint  . Failed to onsight 7b to the right
F AM Tor. Hot and humid. Managed to redpoint right up into the crux sequence of Crucifixion twice but was fighting bad conditions. PM. Foundry. Bouldered on Wave.
S 
S. Noon. Shed. Good progress on Oak PE circuit. PM Foundry with boys. Bouldered on Wave. The boys flashed a 7a+ in the Furnace on top rope with ease!!! 

Tricky week as Sonia was away from weds am until late afternoon today so had all 3 kids and their itineraries to contend with. Bit frustrating not to get out this weekend as feeling fit, strong and at last at my target fighting weight. Feel like its all coming together at last.

If anyone is up for tuesday at the Tor let me know 

[205Chris]

Toys for the Boys first redpoint 

Nice one Shark 

S/M/L/Whatever it takes goal: Powerplant

M: Board work in garage
T: Nada
W: Routes / onsighting at the Edge
T: Nada
F: Fail to find a belay so practice Powerplant style moves on garage board
S: Nada
S: Cornice. Warm up at home and luckily someone has their clips up powerplant. Cruise up it in two halves to refresh the moves. 1st redpoint cruise the crux and fall off on the last hard move on the headwall  . 2nd redpoint I rush the moves on the headwall and my foot skids off. 3rd redpoint I'm knackered. Do some Beastmaker / board work when I get home.

Frustrating week really. Deliberately took it easy hoping for a good session on Powerplant at the weekend. Decided I'm in it for the long run and I'm going to grind it out one way or another.

Looking at the positives I'm learning a lot about redpointing and tactics and the climbing is brilliant so it's hard to get too annoyed with it all (but it would be nice to tick it though...........)

[shark]

Cheers - good to hear that you are sticking with it on Powerplant - sounds like you are ridiculously close and its never too late to use those kneebars

[pyrosis]

M: cruised out to an epic full moon party to help set it up and do some medical volunteering
T: hung out, yoga, went for a run, anticipation of the start of the festival
W: my birthday, also the full moon. music started at 12:01 AM but I was passed out. got up at 5 AM. danced for sunrise, danced all day, danced most of the night til ~3 AM. music kept right on going
T: got up fairly early, danced a bunch more. tried to stay for the end of the music but was too knackered. finally left for home around 6PM, slept like the dead.
F: a good boulder session @ the bachar boulders. sent many 6A and easier including one scary highball 6A I'd never had the balls to do before
S: work
S: work

not much climbing this week but much dancing, I've no regrets

[heelhookofglory]

M: REST
T: Beastmaker session: max hangs of 3F open on big edge (10.5kg), 4F open on big edge (15.5kg) at different arm lock angles. 5/10 on/off, 2/8 rest, 3 sets. Stretching main muscle groups on lower body.
W: Good session at Churnet at Wright's and Ousal. Good session on Ousal Low, managed the whole crux session in a one-er :-D Power endurance defo needs a top-up before the full burn.
T: Great session at Churnet, Ousal and Wright's. Felt really strong tonight, great night. Another good go on Ousal Low but ran out of steam. Tickled the last hold on Alternative Three, going next time.
F: REST
S: Tried a Churnet session but skin too sore (just mucked around on a F6A+). Beastmaker session: max hangs of 3F open on big edge (15.5kg), 4F open on small edge (unweighted x 2 / last set with 10.5kg) at different arm lock angles. 5/10 on/off, 2/8 rest, 3 sets.
S: REST and a nice steady walk. Stretching main muscle groups on lower body.

Good week, really enjoyed the Churnet sessions.

[Luthor]

STG  - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - busy/rest
Tue     - Raven Tor. Worked Out of My Boots. Did the crux move a couple of times but can't link it yet.
Wed     - 30min run
Thurs   - Circuit board at the Works at lunchtime. Easy bouldering session after work.
Fri     - Rest.
Sat     - Back on OOMB at the Tor. Close again...
Sun     - Rest

[fried]

Monday - Indoor session, trying to do more overhangy stuff + weights/core
Tuesday - Indoor session, as above but with more pain.
Wednesday - Shoulder stuff
Thursday - Shoulder stuff
Friday - nothing
Saturday - Shoulder stuff
Sunday - A bit sore, so decide to go to Rocher de Cathedrale, there's only an orange circuit there so I hopefully won't get side-tracked, unfortunately after a lot of rain and an early start it's still damp/ green, and a couple of slabs I wanted to have a look at were covered in orange litchen. So wander over to Rocher du Potala and do some blues.

Weight 75.1kg
YYFY - Climb three times in a week.

[tomtom]

Nothing all week... been feeling ill, mild flu thing that just seemed to wear me down + work, travel & associated shizzle..

But I had a really nice couple of hours at Hobby Moor on sunday afternoon (nice and Hobson moor are words not always associated with each other..)... it was one of those rare climbing days when everything seemed to work in perfect balance... every hold felt great, smears positive, motion was fluid and just pootling about some easy problems and traverses was an absolute joy. Maybe its because its been a while since I was on grit, but it just felt great. I've not been there for a year, and did a couple of problems I couldnt do last time - and felt noticably stronger on those I could do previously. Onwards and upwards....

[Barratt]

Mon: ill
Tues: Bit rough but managed a short campus session after work, stuck to big rungs and then played on the comp wall footless
Wed: ill
Thurs: ill
Fri: Second campus session of the week, still a bit crap and felt weak.
Sat: Short cycle with the mrs
Sun: Works - Feeling bit better but wanted an easy session so completed the new black circuit, 6a my arse! Played on comp wall a bit but didn't want to do too much, campus session today (Monday).

Bit of a wash out, chest infection has taken two weeks to shift. Hopefully back on track now though. Upping the game and getting two campus sessions in a week from now on... POWERRRRR!

[nai]

Nice one Shark.

Aims

M - fingerboard endurance session, 400+ core, 100 pressups
t
W - max hangs (poor show), 4x12 pullups, 60 pressups, 400+ core
th - pullups, core, pressups
f
S - Cornice, CoD undercut wet, tried other stuff but was rubbish, really I'm surprised people didn't boo.
s -

One of those weeks that you wonder why you bother.  Maybe time to try something a bit different, recharge the batteries, some bouldering maybe

[Duncan Disorderly]

Back from Spain now so better fill in me lines......

Must try harder...
Must try harder...
Must try harder...
Must try harder...

Goals: F7b+ in a session, F7c/+, F8a pre 2014.

Week 69.

M: 5 mile fell run round Burbage - Nice! Active rest innit.
T: Bouldering @ The works - General long session - Did bunch of reds and cruised the yellow 7b until the last move when I forgot what I was doing (didn't expect to get anywhere near as I'd been climbing for the past 2.5 hours). Progress.
W: Pre Spain rest
T:  Pre Spain rest
F: Fly to Spain
S: Ponoch - OS 6b+, Dog 2 7b+'s in 30 degree heat! Do a 3 star 5+.
S: Forada - Try and OS Elios (7a+), get shut down on crux, decide it's too hard and will requre a few RP's so strip and on the way down get some beta that makes the crux piss... Do it a few times but decide that putting the clips back in is too much effort (temps still high 20's). Get on Batman (steep 24M 7b+) as the clips are already in, piss the tricky clip first go but mess up the move over the roof... Do the same again.... Will go next RP for sure! Decide that due to soaring temps and being stationed in Murcia that this is the crag as it's 1000M and in the shade.. Should be enough to keep us going for the week...

Week 70.

Goal: Batman!

M: Forada - Get on Batman - Warm up putting clips in. Cock up move over lip 1st RP. Do all hard climbing then drop last tricky move to huge sidepull 2nd RP - ARRRRGGGGGG!!! Give it another go but feeling tired. This is worrying!
T: Beach and DWS day at Cala Moraig - Swim, eat and do some easy DWS's
W: Forada - Get on Batman - Warm up putting clips in. Cock up move over lip 1st RP.  Cock up move over lip 2nd RP! This is daft!! For some reason I'm not pushing with my left foot enough - Sack it off and try and onsight a steep 7a and lob off the top - Arseburgers!
T: Final day... Decide that my desire to do Batman is my undoing, I can piss the moves, I have done the crux and it's all in the mind now. Decide to mentally let it go! It's not going anywhere. Get on a 6c+ to warm up and piss it! Feeling good!  Get on Batman just to familiarise myself with the moves ... 1st go: foot pop = Foot goes back on then do 2 more moves before Lob! Interesting! 2nd go: put steep route boot on left foot to see if that helps,  drop move into undercut low down due to not concentrating, pull back on and piss it! Even more interesting! 3rd (and final) go: recite mantra "I'm Jerry Moffat" a few times, laugh my way through the start, almost drop tricky clip, hang in there, piss crux move - foot stays put (big up the Teams - and Nik shouting "keep yer foot on" ), shake on good hold, throw for massive sidepull - latch it (just!) and float up the rest of the route on a wave of euphoria! YYFY!
F: Swim and fly back to UK
S: Nowt.
S: Fathers day bouldering at Curbar with fanily and nice new guidebook - Do a 7A 2nd try! Unexpected Eat sausages and drink beer in pub!

What a couple of weeks! Learnt a hell of a lot about myself, redpointing and footwear... Had a great holiday too (although it was a bit hot).

Was so good to finally tick Batman but was a bit too close for comfort... 10 Redpoint's is still a fair way from me STG but I think this experience will help. I should have listened to Tommy's advice really and started slow and not got embroiled in a seige but the truth of the matter was that I really, really enjoyed the climbing; Forada has always been a bit of a bogey crag for me as I've always steered clear of the kind of routes the crag excells at (e.g. steep and long) so actually ticking someting at my current hardest RP grade there feels like a big achievement, and real evidence of progress!

This week: Back with the programme.. Onsighting, AeroCap, Bouldering... Yaddayaddayadda!

:D

[duncan]

STG - get fit for il Dolomiti
MTG - E5 by end of summer

M - Shoulder stability stuff, short run
T - Arch bouldering session - mostly social play
W - Shoulder stability stuff, short run
T - Arch aerobic endurance  - 2x15 mins
F - 
S - 
S - 

Last-minute bail from il Dolomiti team-building weekend in Pembroke (sorry guys) and slept most of the weekend.  Off to Amsterdam (work, mostly) for 4 days followed by a weekend of social obligations.  Not the ideal preparation for big trad. routes in 3 weeks.  Anyone for a short session next Sunday at Cheddar or Brean Down?

[shark]

T: Final day... Decide that my desire to do Batman is my undoing, I can piss the moves, I have done the crux and it's all in the mind now. Decide to mentally let it go! It's not going anywhere. Get on a 6c+ to warm up and piss it! Feeling good!  Get on Batman just to familiarise myself with the moves ... 1st go: foot pop = Foot goes back on then do 2 more moves before Lob! Interesting! 2nd go: put steep route boot on left foot to see if that helps,  drop move into undercut low down due to not concentrating, pull back on and piss it! Even more interesting! 3rd (and final) go: recite mantra "I'm Jerry Moffat" a few times, laugh my way through the start, almost drop tricky clip, hang in there, piss crux move - foot stays put (big up the Teams - and Nik shouting "keep yer foot on" ), shake on good hold, throw for massive sidepull - latch it (just!) and float up the rest of the route on a wave of euphoria! YYFY!
F: Swim and fly back to UK
S: Nowt.

It's especially sweet to pull off the final redpoint go on the last day of a trip   

[andybfreeman]

STG - continue return to fitness, get out on routes
MTG (next 3 months) - 7C and 8a

M - Watched Senna @ the watershed what an amazing film! Followed by a Q&A with director and producer, the amount of work involved was simply staggering, some 5000+ hours of raw footage was reviewed resulting in a first edit of 5 hours +!
T - Pull ups and deadhangs at home
W - rest
Th - half arsed deadhanging session at home
Fr - TCA - mostly circuits which felt hard then moved on to some of the new black problems which were great fun
Sa - rest
Su - TCA - longer session. Still felt very unfit on circuits but repeated the balcks I'd done on Friday and got up some more. Did a couple of long sets of repeaters on the 35s at home - 15 reps of 7 on 3 off. Finger feeling better every day so hopefully the rest I've taken in the past 2 weeks has had the result I'd hoped for!

For the first week off I ate too much and my weight reached and breached the psychological 70kg barrier. The last week I've not done as much training as I hoped due to work but I've been careful with my diet and the average for last week was 68.6kg, down from low 69s last week. But, 67.4kg this morning and that was without a dump! If i can lose another couple of kilos while working my fitness/PE i might just be able to drag myself up some projects before i leave the UK

Duncan, i'll PM you re SW routes on sunday!

[Duncan Disorderly]

It's especially sweet to pull off the final redpoint go on the last day of a trip   

True but it's a close run thing when it's the very last go of the trip too (was pushing it with the missus having a 3rd RP anyways).... Kinda put all me eggs in the one basket and this time it paid off... Could have been so different (i.e. another Arco)

:D

[Muenchener]

STG:    Overhanging pumpy 6b flash
   Alpine multi-pitch in Oberreintal next week
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp

Focus for the week: take it easy before big alpine trip to Oberreintal. Maintain some level of movement practice, but avoid heavy fatigue or injury.

M, T: School half term: farmhouse in the mountains with kids. Hillwalking, active rest.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Did some routes; nothing special to report.
T:
F: yoga
S: School half term: farmhouse in the mountains with kids. Hillwalking, active rest.
s: Wall, High East. First time climbing with another expat Brit I met on ukc. Mutual sizing-up as potential Alpine partners. (Bouldering warmup included successful use of a toehook)

[nik at work]

It's especially sweet to pull off the final redpoint go on the last day of a trip   

True but it's a close run thing when it's the very last go of the trip too (was pushing it with the missus having a 3rd RP anyways).... Kinda put all me eggs in the one basket and this time it paid off... Could have been so different (i.e. another Arco)

:D

The tick was inevitable with me there to guide you upwards, once you'd realised that the route was dispatched. Lagers will sort out a bill for you...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Couldn't have done it without you Berie's putting together our babysitting bill right now, say we split it

:D

[webbo]

Mon.Rockcity 2 x 20 problems.Bike 1 hour.
Tue.bike 2 hours 40 mins.Ferry to Rotterdam.
Wed.Nothing other than drive to Germany to visit daughter.
Thu.Bouldering Bielefeld quarry mainly making up eliminates on the chipped pockets on the 45 degree wall.spend rest of afternoon in Bielefeld A&E with missus whoed fallen off some steps drilling holes for curtain rails.Ruptered ligaments and crutches.
Fri.Another session at the quarry repeated everything I did yesterday and did a couple of things I couldn't do also made progress on chipped pocket traverse.
Sat.Bielefeld wall.A bit like a posh Boulder UK.Not bad session to say 3rd day on.
Sun.Drove back to Rotterdam.

A bit of disaster as we were supposed to be in Germany for 10 days but needed to cut it short to get the wifes knee sorted.
 
 

[shark]

Could have been so different (i.e. another Arco)

:D

The failure was inevitable with me and Fiend there to guide you downwards

[nik at work]

Couldn't have done it without you Berie's putting together our babysitting bill right now, say we split it

:D

Sounds more than fair to me, Berie did sterling work that's much appreciated.

[Falling Down]

M - Back and forth to London Run
T - Row 5k 19:55
W/T/F - Nowt in London
S - Didn't go to bed 'til 4 after a birthday party then went to Llandudno.  Dogged up Mr Chips in the afternoon.
S - A couple of routes in Mumbo Jumbo area then three red point attempts at Mr Chips. Failed due to bad tactics, tiredness and not having climbed enough of late.

A fustrating weekend but with hindsight I was just totally knackered.  Slept for twelve hours on Sunday night and dozed off three times yesterday.  Feel much better today and have all this week off work.

[Fultonius]

I've been slacking on the power club posts recently 

STG May 2011: Onsight E4 in the Hebrides Didn't go to the Hebrides and didn;t O/S E4, got 2 E3s though. more mileage required., a new >7b route outside Failed, repeat some problems at Dumby - Consolidated 7B+, Mugsy Traverse 7B, Mestizo Traverse 7B, Slap Happy 7A~Done, Mestizo Sitter (7A+ with a testing heel hook for my gimp leg)Done
LTG: E5 O/S, Fr8a DONE - as per YYFY Thread!!! Sufferance, albeit soft touch Fr8a, >7C.

Monday: Bouldering at Dumby, Got Slap Happy (STG a bit late but still done) and feeling ok.
Tuesday - Friday: Nowt - slightly tender middle finger pulley so resting up.
Sat: Indoor session at Transition (Aberdeen), mainly just trying to O/S routes.
Sunday: Tradding at Floors Craig and Craig Stirling - got my second E3 since I started back climbing again, head improving

Monday this week I ticked on of my LTGs so pretty psyched and surprised!  I think for the rest of the summer I might bow-out of the UKB power club as i'm mainly going to be trying to get out and get routes and problems done, may dip back in in the Autumn/Winter when I start training again for next season.

 
 

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage
LTG: Font 7b

Bit of a weird week as was down in Guildford on business.

M - Gym session in hotel, short gymathlon (500m row, 3k run, 5k bike) then weights / core
T - Full gymathlon (1k row, 5k run, 10k bike) then more core
W - Night off, over to friend's pub in Reigate to eat / drink irresponsibly
T - Back to Leeds for mate's birthday - more irresponsible drinking
F - Nowt
S - Board session, feel heavy and out of touch
S - Wall session binned as hadn't realised work booked me onto 2pm train south

[Fultonius]

recite mantra "I'm Jerry Moffat" a few times, laugh my way through the start, almost drop tricky clip, hang in there, piss crux move - foot stays put (big up the Teams - and Nik shouting "keep yer foot on" ), shake on good hold, throw for massive sidepull - latch it (just!) and float up the rest of the route on a wave of euphoria! YYFY!

Haha - found that amusing as I spent the entire time Ion my successful redpoint of my project I just kept repeating "It feels soo good, it feels soo good"...seems to block out unnecessary thoughts!  good work getting it ticked!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Indeed... Blocking out the internal chattering is no bad thing and something I really need to work on... My problem was that I'd built it up in my mind to be something it wasn't and couldn't get past that, letting go was the real key for me I think... Think I also recited "I'm Adam Ondra - I've got a really long neck" but this may have caused me to laugh again and almost drop the hard clip.. .Doh!

Effort on Sufferance.. Is this the one Fiend did? Sounds amazing if so...

:D

[Fultonius]

Quote function fail!

Yeah, it's the same one Fiend did - it's been getting a lot of traffic recently!

Redpointing is such a different kettle of fish to Trad onsighting...

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically Rock Idol in July. 6C.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T- Nothing.
W- Skipping, powerball, Beastmaker repeaters. Full set on back three for first time. 
T- Rest.
F- Nothing. Drove to Llanberis in evening.
S- Lost my slate cherry. Also first sport climbing in two years. Onsighted 6b which is a personal best. Felt like I could redpoint or even onsight harder. Spent too long on sport routes getting acclimatised to the rock to get much trad done, but I'll be back!
S- Pass trad multipitch.  Awesome weekend.

[Muenchener]

S- Lost my slate cherry. ... Onsighted 6b which is a personal best.

Congratulations! Which one?

It's odd and perhaps a little sad, but now that I live midway between the Alps and the Frankenjura, one aspect of British climbing that I miss - and will probably make a nostaglic return trip for at some pont - is the slate. Probably comes of having been in a club that had a hut right between Vivian and Bus Stop - and being a wuss on anything vaguely steep or pumpy!

[cheque]

S- Lost my slate cherry. ... Onsighted 6b which is a personal best.

Congratulations! Which one?

One called In Loving Memory on the Sidings level in Australia. I did all 15 or so routes on that level (puntersville basically) and that was the hardest. It was only after doing them all without a fall that I felt ready for trad- cruised Seamstress as the sun set and wished I had time for more. But the sport session gave me the feel for the rock and that confidence, so a bit of a Catch 22.

Slate suits me, too- I'm so much better on slabs that I normally only climb them as a 'treat'! It was a great experience climbing in the quarries. I visited them numerous times as a kid (I had one of those Dads who's obsessed with mines and quarries etc.) and have aspired to climb there for ages. Felt like a good acheivement even though I was climbing literally the easiest stuff there!

[Muenchener]

I'm so much better on slabs that I normally only climb them as a 'treat'!

A policy I am also trying to adopt. My "slabs" pyramid currently tops out at 6b+ onsight that felt quite ok, my "steeps" pyramid at a 6b flash that felt like a total fluke, normally I'm happy if I get up overhanging 6a+. Answer: climb more steep stuff.