[Bonjoy]

Here's one for you Simon. Is this route any good? It looks pretty good.
Does it go to the top of the crag? I couldn't see a lower off and the top bolt had a screw gate on it.

[Ethan]

Was wondering the same thing, had a gander other day and thought I could see some kind of tat around a tree...

[shark]

It is good with a great move turning the lip (for once I'm not giving the move beta unless you ask). The main thing to clean is the scoop on the right wall for your feet and if the hole above is full of twigs (from nesting crows I guess). As Ethan spotted there is a rope round the tree but will need replacing. Interesting about the screwgate I assumed it hadn't had a second ascent.

Also if you are there with a drill I reckon going up the left side of the entrance and then traversing the lip into the top of JB would make a good route in the 6b-6c range. Been meaning to do it for years.

[Bonjoy]

Had a go on this yesterday. I was already knackered from trying other stuff and didn’t end up doing it, but it seemed very good (as far as I got). The climbing through scoops is very Castle Hill!
It was steady away until you get to the first big hole where you can get kneebars. Then there was a hard move to get to a jug in scoop above. I assume the next bit is the crux, but wasn’t sure which way to go. Really it needs a top down clean as trying to onsight up dusty slopers was desperate.
From where I was (right hand in jug in the scoop), do you go straight up into the next scoop, or do you go out left into a big hole and then back right out the top of it?

[shark]

From where I was (right hand in jug in the scoop), do you go straight up into the next scoop, or do you go out left into a big hole and then back right out the top of it?

Glad you thought it was good. 

*Beta alert*

When you get the slot in the scoop with your right hand grab your wrist with the left François Legrand stylee and crank up. I can't remember what you go for though.

[Bonjoy]

Went back and did this on Sunday. Excellent rock climb! The double kneebar rest in the big pod is outstanding. Didn't do any wrist grabbing though. In the end I stood on smears, got an overhead small gaston and rocked into the scoop. There was no belay so I've left a loop of static tied off around the tree (could do with a proper belay).

[Ethan]

Good effort cleaning this up Jon. Did it today and thought it was pretty cool, specially with all the knee bars! Ended up getting the slot in the scoop and throwing out left to the other hole, getting a left heel up high in there too and snatching into a right hand sidepull.

Simon, we were wondering how you came up with the name?